\ 

1 


THE  PAMPAS  AND  ANDES. 


A 

THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK 

ACROSS 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 


NATHANIEL  H.  BISHOP. 

tmmm  i — — ■JW 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION 


BY 

EDWARD  A.  SAMUELS,  Esq., 

AUTHOK  OP  “ ORNITHOLOGY  AND  OOLOGY  OP  NEW  ENGLAND,” 
ETC.,  ETC. 


BOSTON: 

LEE  -A  1ST  ID  SIIEPARD. 

1869. 


0 


F 


^ Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1868,  by 
LEE  AND  SHEPARD, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


554111 


boston  college 

CHESTNUT  HILL, 


library 

MASS. 


STEREOTYPED  AT  THE 
BOSTON  STEREOTYPE  FOUNDRY, 
No.  19  Spring  Lane. 


Jl 1W  1 c) 


Presswork  by  John  Wilson  and  Son. 


TO 

PROFESSOR  SPENCER  F.  BAIRD, 

ASSISTANT  SEC’Y  OP  THE  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION, 


&jjis  Hork  is  JEbicatefo, 

AS  A TOKEN  OF  SINCERE  REGARD, 
BY  HIS  FRIEND, 


THE  AUTHOR. 


INTRODUCTION. 


In-  placing  this  little  volume  before  the  public, 
a few  words,  regarding  the  manner  in  which  the  in- 
cidents and  material  composing  it  were  acquired, 
may  be  of  interest  to  the  reader. 

The  young  gentleman  who  made  the  pedestrian 
trip,  of  which  this  forms  the  narrative,  was  a native 
of  Massachusetts.  I had  missed  him  from  his  accus- 
tomed place  for  some  time,  but  was  ignorant  of  his 
contemplated  journey,  or  even  that  he  had  gone 
away,  until  my  attention  was  called  to  the  following 
paragraph  in  the  columns  of  the  Boston  Daily  Ad- 
vertiser of  January  12,  1856,  from  its  Chilian  corre- 
spondent : — 

“ Valparaiso,  November  27,  1855. 

“There  arrived  here,  a few  days  since,  a young  man  belong- 
ing to  Medford,  Mass.,  who  has  walked  across  the  Pampas  and 
Cordilleras,  more  than  a thousand  miles,  unable  to  speak  the 
language,  and  with  an  astonishingly  small  amount  of  money. 

“ So  much  for  a Yankee.” 

My  friend  was  but  seventeen  years  of  age  when  he 

entered  upon  his  difficult  undertaking ; but  by  dint  of 

(3) 


4 


INTRODUCTION. 


perseverance,  backed  by  an  enthusiastic  love  for  nature, 
he  accomplished  a task  that  would  have  seemed  insur- 
mountable to  many  older  and  more  experienced  than 
himself.  To  use  the  language  of  Dr.  Brewer,  the  able 
author  of  the  Oology  of  North  America,  he  was  “a 
young  and  enthusiastic  naturalist,  whose  zeal  in  the 
study  of  Natural  History  prompted  him,  alone,  un- 
aided, and  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  to  explore  the  arid 

% 

plains  of  South  America,  while  yet  a mere  lad  in  years 
and  stature,  though  his  observations  there  exhibit  the 
close  and  careful  study  of  maturer  years.” 

The  young  traveller  started  on  his  journey  of  up- 
wards of  twelve  thousand  miles,  by  sea  and  land,  with  a 
cash  capital  of  forty-five  dollars,  and  returned  home  with 
fifty ; thus  proving  to  those  who  wish  to  see  the  world 
that  energy,  industry,  and  economy  are  as  potent  to 
assist  them  in  their  efforts  as  unlimited  wealth. 

On  his  return,  I requested  him  to  furnish  me  with 
an  account  of  his  journey ; this  he  has  been  unable 
to  do,  from  press  of  business,  until  recently,  when  he 
gave  me  a copy  of  his  journal,  which,  in  a slightly 
revised  form,  is  now  published. 


Edward  A.  Samuels. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

PASSAGE  OF  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 

] 

The  Bark  M.  — First  Glimpses  of  Life  in  the  Forecastle.  — An  old 
Salt,  and  forecastle  Etiquette.  — A self-constituted  Guardian.  — An- 
other old  Salt,  and  how  he  spliced  the  Main-brace.  — Farewell  to 
Boston.  — The  Passage.  — The  tropical  Seas.  — The  Rocks  of  St. 
Paul’s,  and  their  Natural  History.  — First  Visit  of  the  Pampero.  — 
The  “ Doctor’s  ” poetical  Effusions 


CHAPTER  II. 

IN  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 

We  enter  the  River  Plata. — Land.  — Montevideo.  — Another  Pam- 
pero. — Effects  of  the  Hurricane.  — Its  Season.  — We  arrive  at  the 
outer  Roads  at  Buenos  Ayres 


CHAPTER  III. 

BUENOS  AYRES  — THE  PROVINCE  AND  CITY. 

Letters  from  Home.  — A Visit  to  the  City.  — Its  Population.  — This- 
tle Forests.  — Agricultural  Resources.  — Public  Edifices  of  Buenos 
Ayres.  — Improvements.  — Soil  and  Water.  — Slavery  and  its  His- 


6 


CONTENTS. 


tory.  — Don  D.  F.  Sarmiento.  — Paper  Currency.  — General  Ro- 
sas and  his  cruel  Tyranny 35 


CHAPTER  IV. 

VISIT  TO  THE  TIGRE  AND  BANDA  ORIENTAL. 

A new  Acquaintance.  — Preparations  for  a Journey.  — The  Departure. 

— The  Cochero  and  his  Vehicle.  — Residence  of  the  late  President.  — 
Agriculture.  — Fuel.  — San  Fernando.  — Mr.  Hopkins  and  United 
States  and  Pacific  Navigation  Company.  — Yerba.  — We  leave  the 
Tigre.  — Arrival  at  the  Banda  Oriental.  — Wild  Dogs.  — Estancia. 

— Departure  for  the  Las  Vacas  River.  — A Revelation.  — An  Ignis 

Fatuus.  — Estancia  House,  and  Cattle  Farm.  — The  Proprietor  at 
Home.  — Inhospitable  Reception.  — The  Peons.  — Insulting  Treat- 
ment.— An  Irishman  and  his  Opinions.  — We  reach  the  River. — 
Gold  Prospects.  — We  return  to  the  Tigre.  — My  Companion’s 
Fate 49 


CHAPTER  V. 

ASCENDING  THE  PLATA  AND  PARANA. 

Rosario.— Departure  from  the  Tigre. — A Dialogue. — I visit  the  M. 

— The  Irish  Barrister’s  Son.  — I return  to  the  City.  — Leave  Bue- 
nos Ayres. — Banks  of  the  River.  — El  Rosario.  — Schools,  &c. — 
Enterprise  of  the  People.  — Diligences.  — The  Press. — Vigilantes.  — 
Parana.  — Its  Position.  — Bank.  — Railroad  and  its  Prospects. . . . 68 


CHAPTER  YI. 

A VISIT  TO  THE  PAMPA  COUNTRY. 

A new  Acquaintance.  — An  Invitation.  — We  set  out  upon  the  Plains. — 
Incidents  of  the  Journey.  — A Pampa  Lord.  — We  visit  his  Mansion. 
— The  House  and  its  Inmates.  — Cattle.  — Niata  Breed.  — Ostriches. 
Riding  a wild  Colt.  — Trial  of  Horses.  — The  Boliadores.- — Estancia 
Life.  — The  Gauchos.  — Duties  on  the  Cattle  Farm.  — Feast  Days 
and  Aguardiente.  — Customs  of  the  Gauchos.  — Training  Colt6. — 
The  Herdsman’s  Dress 


76 


CONTENTS. 


7 


CHAPTER  Y 1 1. 

LIFE  ON  THE  PAMPAS. 

Don  Jos<5  and  my  new  Guardian. — Preparations  for  Departure. — 
Pampa  Carts.  — Method  of  driving  Oxen.  — Fresh  Meat.  — A Santa. 

— Farewell  to  Rosario.  — The  Caravan.  — A Halt.  — Novel  Mode  of 
Cooking.  — First  Lesson  in  Gaucho  Etiquette.  — A Name.  — Habits 

of  the  Bizcacha. — Burrowing  Owls.  — First  Night  in  the  Pampas. . 1C1 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

LIFE  ON  THE  PAMPAS  — CONTINUED. 

A new  Dress.  — Riding  a Ram.  — Deer.— Parrots.  — Mirages.— A 
Troop  of  Carts.  — A Plantana.  — Grass  on  fire.  — Another  Cara- 
van.— Armadillos.  — Guardia  de  la  Esquina.  — A sad  Story.  — Ir- 
reverence of  the  Peons.  — Cabeza  del  Tigre.  — Indian  Attack. — 
Saladillo.—  I visit  a Rancho. — Punta  del  Sauce.  — Its  Inhabi- 
tants. — A geographical  Dispute.  — La  Reduccion.  — Paso  Durazno. 

— Cerro  Moro  in  the  distance.  — Indian  female  Spies 117 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM  RIO  QUARTO  TO  CERRO  MORO. 

Rio  Quarto.  — Indian  Incursions.  — A novel  Method  of  charging  a 
Cannon.  — Scarcity  of  Bread.  — A Bath.  — The  Peons’  Objection  to 
Bathing.  — Ox-brain  Soup.  — A mule  Troop.  — The  Madrina.  — Ar- 
madillos. — Their  Habits.  — A Caravan  from  Mendoza.  — Bread  and 
Ovens.  — Preparations  for  a hungry  Time.  — A Prostration 136 


CHAPTER  X. 

FROM  RIO  QUARTO  TO  CERRO  MORO  — CONTINUED. 

Prospects  and  Experiences.  — The  Peons’  dislike  for  the  “ Gringo.”  — 

Fear  of  Dr.  Carmel.  — Little  Juan.  — Suspicious  Movements. — 
Sympathy  of  the  China  Women.  — Intrigue.  — The  Breakfast. — 

Don  Manuel  lacks  Etiquette.  — Sickness.  — A Dream 152 


8 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

SAN  LUIS  AND  THE  SALINE  DESERT. 

Don  Manuel  the  Capataz.  — His  Services  as  Yaqueano.  — A Mendoza 
Troop  of  Carts.  — Approach  to  the  “ Interior  Town.”  — Appearance 
of  San  Luis  de  la  Punta.  — The  Governor.  — Indian  Troubles.  — A 
Captive.  — Indian  Attack.  — Treatment  of  Foreigners.  — On  the  Tra- 
vesia.  — Watering  Places.  — Cacti.  — Cochineal.  — Condiments.  — 
Saline  Mineral.  — Its  Properties  and  Analysis  by  Dr.  A.  A. 
Hayes.  — Conjectures  as  to  its  Origin 165 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ON  THE  TRAVESIA. 

We  cross  the  Desaguadero.  — Artificial  Canals.  — La  Paz.  — Results  of 
Irrigation.  — View  of  the  Andes.  — An  Invitation  to  Dinner.  — Gor- 
mandizing of  the  Peons.  — Santa  Rosa.  — Goats.  — Alto  Verde.— 
Camp  on  the  Road.  — A Bath.  — Goitre.  — Preparations  for  entering 
Mendoza.  — The  little  China.  — Arrogance  of  the  Santiaguenos.  — 
Plants  of  the  Travesia.  — Dwellings.  — A Dialogue.  — We  enter  the 
Town.  — An  English  Doctor.  — Cool  Treatment.  — Circo  Olympico. 

— A Visit  to  Plaza  Nueva 182 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

MENDOZA. 

A Disappointment.  — Mendoza.  — The  Alameda.  — The  Governor.  — 
Houses,  Churches,  &c.  — Doings  of  the  Priests.  — The  Confession- 
als. — Padre  A.  — Madcap  young  Ladies.  — Musical  Bells.  — 
Theatre.  — Inhabitants.  — The  Goitre.  — San  Vicente.  — School 
Library. — Newspaper  and  Press  of  Vansice.  — Celebration  of  the 
25th  of  May.  — Soldiers.  — Circus  Performers.  — Arrival  of  Indians 
from  the  South.  — Veracity  of  the  Cacique.  — The  Correo  and  his 
Men.  — Casuchas.  — Snow  Travel.  — A new  Character  introduced. 

— Destruction  of  the  City.  — Departure  for  San  Juan.  — The  con- 
suming Lake.  — Fishes.  — Arrival  at  San  Juan 195 


CONTENTS. 


9 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

A WINTER  IN  SAN  JUAN. 

At  San  Juan.  — Wet  and  dry  Winters.  — Don  Guillermo  Buenaparte. 

— Visit  to  Causete.  — I become  a Miller.  — Natural  History. — 

The  Mill.  — New  Characters.  — The  Scenery. — A curious  Lot. — 
Inhabitants  of  San  Juan.  — The  Town.  — Trade  and  Productions. 

— Agricultural  Tools.  — Irrigation.  — Don  Jos6  the  Penitent.  . . . 216 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A WINTER  IN  SAN  JUAN— CONTINUED. 

A Mine.  — A new  Acquaintance.  — An  Account  of  the  Prowess  of  a 
Diablo.  — His  Dress.  — Horse’s  Trappings.  — The  Rastreador.  — His 
Skill.  — A Translation  from  Sarmiento 229 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

VIENTE  DE  ZONDA. 

Regarding  the  Zonda  Wind.  — Miers’s  Opinion.  — Courses  of  the 
Zondas.  — A Wind  of  long  Duration. — South  Wind.  — Speculations 
upon  the  Starting-point  of  the  Zondas 239 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

ADVENTURES  OF  DON  GUILLERMO  BUENAPARTE. 

Don  Guillermo  relates  his  Adventures.  — Leaves  New  Bedford — De- 
serts his  Ship  for  another.  — Rock  of  Dunda.  — Terrapin  Island.  — 
Sufferings  and  Escape  from  the  Plrfbe.  — Marquesas  Islands. — 
Leaves  the  Vessel.  — Life  among  the  Cannibals.  — Cruel  Fate  of  his 
Companions.  — Settles  down  to  Marquesan  Life.  — A Ship.  — Es- 
cape of  Don  Guillermo.  — Other  Adventures.  — Leaves  Chili.  — Ad- 
ditional Remarks 245 


# 


10 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

CROSSING  THE  ANDES. 

Preparations  for  leaving  San  Juan.  — I leave  the  Mill.  — The  Post 
House  — - The  Minister  and  his  friendly  Offer. — The  Flecha. — El  Du- 
razno.  — The  Hut  and  its  Occupants.  — The  Vinchuca. — A blood- 
less Battle.  — El  Sequion.  — Chinas.  — A Troop  of  Mules,  and  a 
Night  with  the  Capataz.  — Up  the  Valley.  — A Hut  and  a pretty 
Senorita.  — An  elevated  Plain.  — Camp.  — Sunrise  in  the  Andes. — 

The  Road  to  Uspallata. — Don  Fernandez. — An  Invitation. — 
Farewell  to  Uspallata.  — Indian  Structures.  — Asad  Tale.  — Cueste 
de  la  Catedral. — La  Punta  de  las  Vacas 277 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

CROSSING  THE  ANDES  — CONTINUED. 

Descent  of  the  Andes.  — Vaqueano  Mule.  — Waiting  for  the  Snow  to 
crust  over.  — Strange  Scenery.  — Below  the  Snow.  — Another  Snow- 
Hut.  — A Drift.  — Travellers  from  Chili.  — Preparations  for  ascend- 
ing the  Cordillera.  — Remedy  for  the  Puna.  — A hard  Road.  — On 
the  Cumbre 296 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FROM  THE  ANDES  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

Passage  down  the  Valley. — Eyes  of  Water.  — The  Chilians  and  their 
Characteristics.  — San  Rosa.  — A Chilian  Welcome. — A Feast. — 

The  River  Aconcagua. — Quillota.  — At  Valparaiso.— Departure 
for  Home 305 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PASSAGE  TO  THE  EIYER  PLATA. 

ONE  cold  November  morning,  in  compliance  with 
previous  orders,  I reported  myself  ready  for  duty 
at  the  shipping  office  of  Messrs.  S.  and  K.,  Commercial 
Street,  Boston,  and  having  received,  as  is  customary, 
one  month’s  wages  in  advance,  proceeded  with  my 
baggage  to  Battery  Wharf,  at  the  foot  of  which  lay  the 
bark  M.,  destined  to  be  my  future  home  for  many 
weeks.  As  but  one  of  the  crew  had  already  gone  on 
board,  I had  ample  leisure  for  examining  the  vessel,  on 
board  of  which  I was  to  receive  my  first  lessons  in 
practical  seamanship,  and  to  endure  privations  hitherto 
happily  unknown  to  me.  The  M.  was  not  prepossess- 
ing in  appearance,  and  I confess  that  her  model  did 
not  give  a favorable  idea  of  her  sailing  qualities  : 
vessels,  like  horses,  have  peculiar  external  points  by 
which  their  virtues  may  be  judged,  and  their  speed 
determined.  As  I gazed  upon  her  long,  straight  sides, 
square  bows,  and  box-like  hull,  it  seemed  to  me  that 
her  builders  must  have  mistaken  her  ends ; for,  certes , 
had  her  spars  been  reversed,  she  would  have  made 

(ii) 


12 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


better  progress  by  sailing  stern  foremost.  Some  know- 
ing ones,  who  have  since  examined  this  specimen  of 
marine  architecture  of  twenty  years  ago,  have  sustained 
my  suspicion  that  the  M.  belonged  to  that  enduring 
fleet  of  cruisers,  now  scattered  over  the  great  deep, 
which  were  originally  built  in  the  State  of  Maine,  of 
which  report  is  made  that  “ these  vessels  are  built  by 
the  mile,  and  sawed  off  according  to  the  length  ordered 
by  the  buyer.” 

The  mate,  who  was  occupied  in  receiving  live  stock, 
— i.  e.,  two  young  pigs,  — ordered  me  to  stow  my  things 
“ for’ard ; ” an  order  somewhat  difficult  to  comply  with, 
as  the  forecastle  was  well  filled  with  firewood,  ropes, 
blocks,  swabs,  and  the  various  other  articles  used  on 
shipboard. 

I crawled  down  the  dark  passage,  and  was  feeling 
about  to  discover  the  dimensions  of  a sailor’s  home, 
doubting,  meanwhile,  whether,  in  reality,  this  narrow 
hole  could  be  the  abode  intended  for  human  beings, 
when  suddenly  a gruff  voice  called  down  to  me, 
“ Come,  youngster,  bear  a hand  ! Make  yourself  live- 
ly ! We  must  clean  out  this  shop  before  the  crew 
come  down ; stir  yourself,  and  pass  me  up  the  pieces.” 
Obeying  these  peremptory  commands,  I applied  my- 
self to  work,  and  in  an  hour’s  time  my  companion 
declared  the  place  “ship-shape,  and  fit  for  sailors.”  I 
would  remark,  en  passant , that  this  declaration  was 
made  in  the  face  of  the  fact  that  mould  and  dust  cov- 
ered the  timbers  and  boards,  and  cockroaches  filled  the 
many  crevices.  “ But,”  said  my  companion,  with  a 
philosophical  air,  “if  the  place  were  carpeted,  and 
lighted  with  a fine  lamp,  the  fellows  would  be  the 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


13 


more  dissatisfied;  the  better  treated  they  are,  the 
worse  they  growl.”  At  the  time  I inwardly  dissented 
from  the  truth  of  this  remark ; but  subsequent  experi- 
ences taught  me  the  old  salt  was  right. 

As  I had  been  of  service  in  removing  all  the  lumber, 
I thought  to  repay  myself  by  securing  a good  bunk, 
and  therefore  chose  an  upper  one.  After  I had  given 
it  a thorough  cleaning,  and  had  carefully  stowed  away 
my  mattress  and  blanket,  one  of  the  new  crew  entered 
the  forecastle,  and,  on  noticing  my  labors,  at  once  re- 
moved my  bed,  and  placed  his  own  in  its  place, 
remarking,  at  the  same  time,  that  it  was  a highly  im- 
polite and  lubberly  action  for  an  understrapper  to 
“bunk  down  where  he  didn’t  belong;  upper  bunks 
were  merits  bunks;  lower  ones,  boys’.”  Although  I 
pleaded  ignorance  of  the  etiquette  of  the  forecastle, 
and  selected  another  resting-place,  my  shipmate  con- 
tinued his  lecture  on  the  rules  of  the  sea,  and  hinted 
at  the  future  “ rope’s-endings  from  the  little  man  aft,” 
as  he  called  the  mate,  in  store  for  me. 

During  his  harangue  two  or  three  of  my  old  school- 
fellows came  aboard,  and,  on  visiting  my  quarters, 
remarked  upon  the  poor  accommodations  and  filthiness 
to  which  I was  to  be  doomed ; upon  which  remark 
the  old  tar  broke  out  with,  “ And  so  this  is  a young 
gentleman  going  to  sea  for  the  first  time  ? O,  ho ! 
All  right.  I’ll  be  his  guardian,  and  keep  an  eye  on 
him  when  he’s  aloft,  and,  to  start  fair,  if  my  opinion 
was  asked,  I’d  say  we’d  better  go  up  the  wharf,  and 
splice  the  matter  over  a social  glass.”  At  this  hint,  so 
delicately  conveyed,  we  gave  the  fellow  a sum  sufficient 
to  allay  his  thirst,  had  it  been  never  so  great,  and  he 


14 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


at  once  took  leave  of  us,  only  to  return,  however,  in  a 
few  minutes,  declaring  that  he  had  lost  every  cent,  at 
the  same  time  reiterating  his  offer  to  become  my  friend 
for  a consideration.  - 

The  noise  of  the  tow-boat  now  called  us  on  deck, 
where  we  found  a perfect  Babel  of  confusion,  caused 
by  the  throng  of  porters,  boarding-house  runners,  idlers, 
and  sailors’  friends,  who  were  giving  and  receiving  ad- 
vice in  quantities  to  last  until  the  vessel  returned  to 
her  port.  About  this  time  I was  touched  on  the 
shoulder  by  a rough-looking  personage  in  a sailor’s 
dress,  who  took  me  aside,  and  inquired  if  I really  in- 
tended going  to  sea.  “ Because,”  said  he,  “ if  you  are, 
let  me  give  you  a bit  of  advice.  I’m  an  old  shell , and 
can  steer  my  trick  as  well  as  the  next  one ; and  as 
we’re  to  be  shipmates,  and  you’re  young,  all  you’ve  got 
to  do  is  to  stick  close  to  me,  and  I’ll  larn  yer  all  the 
moves.”  After  showing  so  kind  an  interest  in  my 
affairs,  he  hinted,  like  the  other  man,  that  there  was 
“ still  time  enough  to  step  up  to  the  house,  and  splice 
the  main  brace.”  As  I was  ignorant  of  this  point  in 
seamanship,  I handed  him  some  money,  that  he  might 
perform  it  alone,  when  he  disappeared.  I saw  nothing 
more  of  him  for  the  next  half  hour ; and  it  was  only 
when  the  vessel  was  about  moving  off  that  he  staggered 
over  the  rail,  to  all  appearances  well  braced ; and  as  he 
expressed  a desire  to  handle  all  on  board,  from  the 
“ old  man  ” (the  captain)  “ in  the  cabin  to  the  doctor  ” 
(cook)  uin  the  galley,”  I concluded  that  his  splicing 
had  received  especial  attention,  and  that  his  strands 
would  not  unravel  for  several  hours  to  come. 

These  scenes  on  board  of  the  M.,  while  getting 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


15 


under  way,  were  comparatively  tame  to  others  that  I 
have  since  witnessed  on  other  vessels.  I have  known 
men  to  be  carried  on  board  ship  by  their  boarding 
masters,  who  had  enticed  them  into  their  dens  of  in- 
famy, and  who  had  drugged  them  so  powerfully  that 
they  did  not  recover  their  senses  until  the  vessel  had 
left  the  port.  In  this  manner,  fathers  of  families,  me- 
chanics, tradesmen,  and  other  persons  wholly  unfitted 
for  a sea  life  have  been  carried  off,  unknown  by  their 
friends.  When  full  consciousness  returned  to  the  un- 
happy victims,  they  sought  the  officers  for  an  explana- 
tion, when  I have  seen  them  so  beaten  and  kicked, 
that  in  apprehension  for  their  lives,  they  bowed  in 
submission  to  a tyranny  worse  than  that  of  slavery 
itself. 

After  lying  for  more  than  twenty-four  hours,  wind- 
bound,  in  the  outer  harbor,  all  hands  were  called  before 
daylight,  and  though  the  mercury  stood  but  a few  de- 
grees above  the  freezing  point,  the  decks  were  washed 
down ; after  which  operation  the  anchor  was  weighed, 
and  we  set  sail  out  upon  the  bosom  of  the  broad  Atlan- 
tic. When  we  were  fairly  under  way,  we  were  set 
to  work  stowing  away  chains  and  ropes,  securing  the 
water  casks  upon  deck,  lashing  the  anchors  upon  the 
rail ; then  a short  breathing  spell  was  allowed  us. 
While  looking  to  windward,  an  old  sailor,  with  whom 
I had  commenced  a friendship,  which  I was  determined 
to  strengthen,  said,  “Here,  boy:  do  you  see  that  land, 
there  ? It  is  the  last  you  will  see  until  we  drop  anchor 
in  the  River  Plata.”  I gazed  long  upon  it.  It  was 
Cape  Cod.  Its  white  sand-hills  looked  cold  and  drear, 
as  the  sea  beat  against  their  bases,  some  of  which  were 


16 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


smooth  and  sloping,  others  steep  and  gullied  by  the 
rains.  An  hour  after  this  the  breeze  freshened,  the 
light  sails  were  taken  in,  and  the  topsails  double- 
reefed  ; and  as  the  sea  ran  higher,  and  our  little  vessel 
grew  proportion  ably  uneasy,  I began  to  experience  the 
uncomfortable  nausea  and  dizziness  of  seasickness, 
which,  added  to  the  repulsive  smell  and  closeness  of 
the  forecastle,  completely  overcame  my  fortitude, 
when  retiring  to  my  bunk  I tried  to  make  myself 
comfortable. 

About  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  all  hands  were 
mustered  upon  the  quarter-deck,  and  the  watches 
chosen.  To  my  satisfaction  I was  selected  by  the 
mate,  and  had  the  further  gratification  of  finding  that 
old  Manuel,  my  friend,  had  also  been  chosen  for  our 
watch  — a result  which  evidently  delighted  him  as  much 
as  myself.  Ours  was  the  larboard  watch,  and  remained 
upon  deck,  while  the  captain’s,  or  starboard  watch, 
went  below.  The  duties  of  sea  life  had  now  fairly 
commenced. 

The  two  hours  that  followed,  from  six  to  eight,  were 
passed  in  a pleasant  conversation  with  the  old  French- 
man, Manuel.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  his  eye 
on  the  moves  of  the  crew,  and  he  concluded  that  there 
was  but  one  sailor  on  board : it  was  left  to  my  sagacity 
to  infer  that  he  meant  himself. 

Two  of  the  crew,  who  had  shipped  as  ordinary  sea- 
men, were  ignorant  of  the  duties  for  which  they  had 
contracted,  and  each  man  in  the  forecastle  had  shipped 
as  an  American-born  citizen,  with  protection  papers 
received  from  the  Custom  House,  which  legally  as- 
serted him  as  such.  These  papers  they  had  obtained 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


17 


from  their  boarding-house  masters,  who  had  purchased 
them  at  twenty-five  cents  each,  and  had  retailed  them 
to  their  foreign  customers  at  seventy-five  cents  apiece. 
Of  this  American  crew,  two  were  Germans,  or  Dutch- 
men (an  appellation  given  by  sailors  to  all  persons 
from  the  north  of  Europe),  one  of  unknown  parentage, 
who  could  only  speak  a few  words  of  English,  two 
Irishmen,  one  Englishman,  another  who  swore  point 
blank  to  being  a native-born  citizen  of  the  States,  an 
old  mariner  from  Bordeaux,  and  myself.  The  law  that 
makes  it  the  duty  of  a captain  to  take  with  his  crew  a 
certain  proportion  of  native-born  Americans,  had  surely 
not  been  complied  with  here.  To  one  of  our  crew  I 
cannot  do  otherwise  than  devote  a few  lines. 

The  “ doctor,”  or  cook,  had  already  introduced  him- 
self, and  informed  us  in  a short  and  patriotic  speech, 
delivered  at  the  galley  door,  that  he  would  confess 
that  his  father  was  a distinguished  Irish  barrister,  and 
that  he  himself  possessed  no  little  share  of  notoriety  in 
the  old  country.  He  had  once  been  taken  by  a cele- 
brated duchess,  as  she  rode  past  in  her  carriage,  for  a 
son  of  the  Marquis  of  B.  His  amusing  vanity  drew 
many  expressions  of  contempt  from  the  tars,  who  pro- 
nounced him  to  be  “ an  idle  Irish  thief,”  which  only 
served  to  make  him  wax  more  warm  in  his  assumptions 
of  gentility.  He  was  interrupted  in  the  midst  of  a 
high-flown  harangue  by  the  loud  squealing  of  the  pigs, 
which  squealing  reminded  him  that  his  duties  must 
not  be  neglected  for  the  purpose  of  edifying  a crowd 
of  ignorant  tars. 

Our  watch  lasted  until  eight  bells,  when  I went  be- 
low, but  had  very  little  appetite  for  supper  — a meal 
2 


18 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


consisting  of  salt  beef,  biscuits,  and  a fluid  which  the 
cook  called  tea,  although,  on  trial,  I was  sadly  puzzled 
to  know  how  it  could  merit  such  an  appellation. 

Of  the  three  weeks  which  followed  this  first  expe- 
rience of  nautical  life  and  its  miseries,  I can  say  but 
little,  as  I labored  during  this  period  under  the  exhaust- 
ing effects  of  seasickness,  which  reduced  me  to  such  a 
degree  of  weakness  that  I once  fainted  on  the  flying 
jib-boom,  from  which  position  of  peril  I was  rescued 
and  brought  in  by  my  friend  Manuel.  But  this  dis- 
tressing malady  wore  away,  and  at  last  became  alto- 
gether a memory  of  the  past.  Despite  hard  fare  and 
labor,  I not  only  recovered  my  lost  flesh,  but  grew 
rugged  and  hearty,  and,  moreover,  became  tolerably 
familiar  with  the  duties  of  a life  at  sea. 

I have  alluded  to  our  cook,  and  to  his  ineffable  con- 
ceit, mock  sentimentality,  and  Hibernian  fertility  of 
invention. 

It  was  his  opinion  that  the  “ low-lived  fellows  ” on 
board  ought  to  feel  highly  honored  by  the  presence  in 
their  midst  of  at  least  one  gentleman  — a title  which  he 
continually  arrogated  to  himself.  I am  sorry  to  say, 
that  as  a cook  he  was  not  “ a success.”  He  cared  very 
little  about  the  quality  of  the  food  he  served  to  us ; 
and  its  preparation  was  usually  a subordinate  consid- 
eration, with  him,  to  the  indulgence  of  his  master  pas- 
sion, — the  perusal  of  highly-colored  novels,  — which  he 
devoted  every  possible  moment  to. 

In  the  hope  of  improving  my  WTetched  diet,  I ap- 
plied myself  to  the  study  of  this  man’s  character,  and, 
having  soon  discovered  his  assailable  point,  supplied 
him  with  some  works  of  fiction  more  entrancing  than 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


19 


any  he  had  hitherto  possessed.  I bought  them  just 
before  our  leaving  home,  thinking  that  perhaps  some 
such  an  opportunity  might  offer  for  making  a friend- 
ship with  some  of  my  messmates.  His  delight  at  re- 
ceiving them  was  extreme  ; and  I received  in  exchange 
for  my  favors  many  a dish  that  added  a zest  to  my 
food,  which  it  had  hitherto  altogether  lacked. 

Whenever  I wished  to  be  entertained  with  some  mar- 
vellous account  of  “life  in  the  highest  circles  of  Great 
Britain,”  I had  only  to  request  from  the  sympathetic 
cook  a passage  or  two  from  his  eventful  life.  It  was 
his  constant  lament  that  he  had  never  kept  a dialogue 
(diary)  of  his  travels,  which,  according  to  his  account, 
must  have  surpassed  those  of  most  mortals  in  adven- 
ture and  interesting  incidents. 

Of  our  crew,  his  countryman,  the  “ boy  Jim,”  was  his 
favorite.  This  Jim  was  the  red-shirted  sailor  who  had" 
promised  to  instruct  me  in  all  the  “ moves  ” of  an  ex- 
perienced salt,  before  we  had  left  the  wharf  at  Boston. 
A very  few  days  of  our  voyage,  however,  served  to 
prove,  that  he  not  only  had  no  claim  to  the  title  of 
“ old  salt,”  but  also  that  he  had  never  learned  to  “ steer 
a trick  at  the  wheel.”  The  first  order  that  he  received 
from  one  of  the  mates  was,  “ Boy  Jim,  lay  aloft  there, 
and  slush  down  the  foretop-gallant  and  royal  masts ! ” 
Seizing  a tar  bucket,  and  pointing  aloft,  he  exclaimed, 
“Shure,  sir,  and  which  of  them  sticks  is  it  that  ye 
mane  ? ” thus  laying  bare  his  ignorance  of  all  nautical 
matters,  and  bringing  on  himself  the  ridicule  of  the 
whole  ship’s  crew. 

As  with  head  winds  we  slowly  drew  near  the  vari- 
ables, or  horse  latitudes,  rainy  weather,  accompanied 


20 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


by  squalls  of  wind,  commenced,  and  for  twenty-one 
days  and  nights  we  were  wet  to  the  skin  : clothes,  bed- 
ding, all  were  saturated  from  the  effects  of  a leaky 
deck ; and  it  was  a common  occurrence  to  find,  on 
awakening  from  slumber,  a respectable  stream  of  water 
descending  into  the  close  and  crowded  forecastle. 
When  on  deck  our  oil  clothes  did  not  protect  us,  for 
from  our  having  worked  in  them  constantly,  the  oil 
coating  had  worn  off : so,  at  the  end  of  a watch,  we 
wrung  out  our  under  garments,  and  turned  into  our 
narrow  bunks,  where  we  quickly  fell  asleep,  and  forgot 
our  miseries  and  troubles,  until  we  were  aroused  to 
them  by  the  gruff  voice  of  some  sailor  of  the  other 
watch,  shouting  down  the  companion-way,  “Ay  — 
you — Lar-bowlines — ahoy — there;  eight — bells!  Lay 
up  here,  bullies,  and  get  your  duff.”  Or,  perhaps,  “Do 
those  fellows  down  there  ever  intend  to  relieve  the 
watch ! ” exclaimed  in  no  pleasant  tones  by  the  captain 
of  the  other  watch. 

The  rainy  season  was  succeeded  by  as  delightful 
weather  as  we  could  have  desired.  A fair  wind  sprang 
up  a few  days  before  crossing  the  line,  and  with  strain- 
ing canvas  we  sped  on  towards  Buenos  Ayres.  The 
days  passed  pleasantly,  and  our  duties  became  light 
and  agreeable.  Enjoyable  as  were  these  tranquil  days, 
the  nights  were  still  lovelier  in  those  latitudes.  The 
moon  seemed  to  shine  with  an  unwontedly  pure  and 
spiritual  light,  and  with  a brightness  known  only  to  the 
clear  atmosphere  of  the  tropics. 

As  we  glided  along,  night  after  night,  under  a firma- 
ment studded  with  countless  lights,  and  over  a broad 
expanse  ruffled  with  short,  dark  waves  curling  crisply 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


21 


into  foam,  I could  hardly  conceive  a scene  of  more 
quiet  beauty.  Standing  upon  the  forecastle  deck,  a 
glorious  vision  frequently  met  our  gaze a phospho- 
rescent light  gleamed  beneath  the  bows,  and  streamed 
along  the  sides  and  in  the  vessel’s  wake,  looking  like  a 
train  of  liquid  gems  *to  the  imaginative  observer.  If 
we  looked  aloft  to  the  white  canvas  of  our  wide-spread 
sails,  we  seemed  borne  along  by  some  gigantic  bird,  of 
which  the  sails  were  the  powerful  wings,  to  the  distant 
horizon,  in  which  were  the  Southern  Cross  and  other 
larger  constellations,  burning,  like  beacon  lamps,  lead- 
ing us  on  to  our  destined  port. 

During  these  days  and  nights  our  attention  was  not 
unfrequently  attracted  to  the  dwellers  in  the  deep, 
which  were  constantly  sporting  around  us.  Schools 
of  black-fish  and  porpoises  continually  crossed  our  track ; 
and  large  numbers  of  flying-fish  often  shot  across  our 
bows,  sometimes  leaving  at  our  mercy  a few  stragglers 
upon  the  decks. 

Upon  such  nights  as  I have  described,  when  acting 
as  lookout  by  the  windlass  bits,  old  Manuel  frequently 
came  to  my  side,  and  conversed  upon  the  various  topics 
connected  with  his  past  life,  which  had  been  an  event- 
ful one.  He  was  born  in  Bordeaux.  His  mother  died 
when  he  was  an  infant,  leaving  him  to  the  care  of  his 
father,  who  owned  and  commanded  a small  vessel  en- 
gaged in  the  coasting  trade. 

While  very  young,  Manuel  preferred  playing  about 
the  streets  of  his  native  city,  and  hiding,  with  other 
boys,  among  the  vines  which  covered  his  father’s  dwell- 
ing, to  following  any  plan  of  education  proposed  by 
his  father.  Under  the  direction  of  an  uncle,  however, 


OO 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


he  attended  school  when  nine  years  old,  and  learned  to 
read  and  write  during  the  two  succeeding  years.  So 
rapid  was  his  progress,  that  the  uncle,  who  was  wealthy, 
offered  to  defray  his  expenses  if  he  would  fit  himself 
for  the  university  ; but  Manuel  preferred  following  the 
fortunes  of  his  father  for  a season,  and  accordingly 
sailed  with  him  along  the  coasts  of  France  and  Spain. 
But  the  voyage  was  not  destined  to  be  a pleasant 
one.  The  boy  was  continually  offending  his  father, 
who  was  a cold  and  unlovable  man  ; and  one  after- 
noon, while  performing  certain  antics  upon  the  main- 
topsail-yard-arm,  the  old  gentleman  called  him  down, 
and  rewarded  his  exertions  with  a lusty  application  of 
the  end  of  the  main  sheet,  which  rope’s-ending  was 
not  to  Manuel’s  taste.  He  availed  himself  of  the  first 
opportunity,  deserted  the  vessel,  and  joined  a fine  ship 
sailing  to  Havana.  Before  reaching  Cuba  he  had  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  ropes,  and  not  wishing  to 
return  to  his  parent  until  time  had  soothed  his  outraged 
feelings,  he  left  the  ship,  and  became  a destitute  wan- 
derer in  a foreign  land.  He  was  at  that  time  twelve 
years  of  age.  Being  led  into  bad  company,  he  joined 
a slaver,  bound  for  the  west  coast  of  Africa.  The  ga~ 
lota  in  which  he  sailed  reached  the  Rio  Congo,  and 
received  on  board  nine  hundred  negroes,  nearly  all  of 
-whom  were  landed  safely  in  Cuba.  His  wages,  as  boy, 
amounted  to  fifty  dollars  per  month ; but,  though  en- 
gaged in  so  profitable  an  undertaking,  his  sense  of 
right  caused  him  to  leave  his  unprincipled  associates, 
and  to  seek  employment  elsewhere.  Since  that  time 
he  had  served  beneath  the  flag  of  nearly  every  mari- 
time nation,  and  had  also  fought  in  the  China  wars. 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


23 


For  thirteen  years  he  had  sailed  from  Boston  and  New 
York,  choosing  the  American  republic  as  his  adopted 
country,  for  which  he  was  willing,  as  he  declared,  to 
shed  his  best  blood,  should  necessity  require. 

While  conversing  with  Manuel,  one  morning  before 
sunrise,  I was  surprised  by  his  suddenly  jumping  to  his 
feet  and  scanning  the  horizon.  At  length  he  exclaimed, 
“ There  is  a sight  you  may  never  see  again.  I have 
crossed  the  line  many  times  in  this  longitude,  but  never 
beheld  that  before  to-day ! ” At  this  moment  the  mate, 
who  had  been  keeping  a long  lookout,  disappeared  be- 
low, returning  in  a moment  with  the  captain.  Looking 
in  the  direction  pointed  out  by  the  old  sailor,  I dis- 
cerned far  away  to  the  south-south-east,  broken  water ; 
and,  as  the  daylight  advanced,  we  were  soon  able  to 
distinguish  two  detached  and  rugged  rocks,  rising  out 
of  the  sea,  together  with  many  smaller  peaks  rising  out 
of  the  water  around  them.  One  of  these  bore  a strik- 
ing resemblance  to  a sugar-loaf.  This  group  was  the 
St.  Paul’s  Rocks.  When  first  seen  they  appeared 
dark  and  drear;  but,  as  our  vessel  approached  them, 
we  discovered  that  the  excrements  of  myriads  of  sea- 
fowl,  with  which  they  were  covered,  had  made  them 
of  a glistening  white,  presenting  a strange  appearance, 
not  wholly  devoid  of  the  picturesque.  Here,  at  no  less 
a distance  than  five  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  the 
continent  of  South  America,  these  peaks,  the  summits 
of  mountains  whose  bases  are  planted  in  unfathomed 
depths,  arise. 

The  rocks  lie  in  longitude  twenty-nine  degrees  fif- 
teen minutes  west,  and  are  only  fifty-eight  miles  north 
of  the  equator.  The  highest  peak  rises  but  fifty  feet 


24 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


above  the  sea,  and  is  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  in  circumference. 

These  isolated  rocks  have  been  visited  by  a few  per- 
sons only.  Darwin,  the  naturalist,  made  a thorough 
investigation  into  their  natural  history.  Among  birds, 
the  booby  gannet  and  noddy  tern  were  found ; both 
species  being  very  tame,  depositing  their  eggs  and 
rearing  their  young  in  great  numbers.  Darwin,  in  his 
account  of  the  tenants  of  these  rocky  islets,  observes, 
“It  was  amusing  to  watch  how  quickly  a large  and 
active  crab  ( Grapsus ),  which  inhabits  the  crevices  of 
the  rocks,  stole  the  fish  from  the  side  of  the  nest,  as 
soon  as  we  had  disturbed  the  parent  birds.  Sir  W. 
Symonds,  one  of  the  few  persons  who  have  landed 
here,  informs  me  that  he  saw  these  crabs  dragging 
even  the  young  birds  out  of  the  nests,  and  devouring 
them.  Not  a single  plant,  nor  even  lichen,  grows  on 
this  islet;  yet  it  is  inhabited  by  several  insects  and 
spiders.  The  following  list  completes,  I believe,  the 
terrestrial  fauna:  A fly  ( Olfersia ),  living  on  the 

booby,  and  a tick,  which  must  have  come  here  as  a 
parasite  on  the  birds ; a small  brown  moth,  belonging 
to  a genus  that  feeds  on  feathers;  a beetle  ( Quedius ), 
and  a wood-louse  from  beneath  the  dung ; and,  lastly, 
numerous  spiders,  which,  I suppose,  prey  on  these  small 
attendants  and  scavengers  of  the  water-fowl.” 

I afterwards  met,  among  the  many  roving  characters 
with  whom  the  traveller  becomes  acquainted,  a person, 
who,  in  his  younger  days,  had  been  engaged  not  only 
in  privateering,  but  also  in  the  lucrative,  though  inhu- 
man, slave  traffic.  He  knew  of  many  instances  when 
slavers  and  freebooters . had  been  obliged  to  visit  St. 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


25 


Paul’s  from  necessity,  not  only  for  the  purpose  of  secur- 
ing the  rain-water  that  is  caught  in  the  cavities  and 
depressions  in  the  rock,  but  also  to  procure  a supply  of 
the  fish  which  play  about  the  islets  in  large  schools,  or, 
more  properly,  perhaps,  shoals,  or  schules. 

Although  our  vessel  was  built  before  the  age  of 
clippers,  and  consequently  made  slow  progress  through 
the  water,  St.  Paul’s  was  far  astern  by  ten  o’clock. 
A fresh  breeze  sprang  up,  and,  as  it  continued  fair,  we 
were  wafted  along  smoothly  day  after  day  towards  our 
destined  port. 

At  length  the  sudden  changes  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  careful  consultations  of  the  officers,  and  admoni- 
tions “to  keep  a bright  lookout  ahead,”  warned  the 
forecastle  hands  that  we  were  nearing  the  Rio  Plata, 
the  great  River  of  Silver , whose  broad  mouth  we  were 
soon  to  enter,  there  to  gaze  upon  the  shores  of  another 
continent. 

The  nights  seemed  cooler,  and  the  beautiful  appear- 
ance of  the  heavens,  as  the  sun,  with  a broader  disk, 
sank  beneath  the  western  horizon,  particularly  attracted 
our  attention.  As  it  slowly  disappeared,  clouds  of  many 
varied  hues  gathered  above  it  like  heavy  drapery,  as 
if  to  conceal  its  flight ; while  others,  taking  the  form 
of  long  ranges  of  mountains,  with  here  and  there  a tall 
peak  towering  up  into  the  clearer  firmament,  presented 
a panorama  of  exquisite  beauty  and  grandeur.  But 
all  evenings  were  not  of  this  description.  Sometimes 
the  heavens  darkened,  and  for  two  or  three  hours  not 
a breath  of  air  moved  the  murky  atmosphere.  Long, 
dark  swells  came  rolling  towards  us  from  the  south- 
east, sure  indicators  of  the  distant  pampero , the  hurri- 


26 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


cane  of  La  Plata.  When  these  swells  were  visible,  the 
crew  at  once  became  active  : every  light  sail  was 
snugly  furled,  and  the  topsails  double  reefed,  for  our 
captain  was  a prudent  man,  who  had  sailed  long  enough 
in  these  latitudes  to  know  the  fearful  devastation  that 
is  often  occasioned  by  the  pampero.  Before  our  voy- 
age terminated  we  had  an  opportunity  to  api^reciate 
this  trait  in  his  seamanship. 

One  afternoon,  when  within  four  or  five  days’  sail  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Plata,  the  sky  became  overcast  with 
murky  clouds,  while  the  distant  thunder  and  lightning 
in  the  south-west-  warned  us  of  the  proximity  of  the 
hurricane.  “ All  hands  ” were  called,  and  we  hurried 
to  our  stations ; but  before  everything  could  be  made 
snug  aloft,  a fierce  shower  of  hail  descended,  pelting  us 
mercilessly ; and  glad  enough  we  were  to  get  below,  at 
four  bells,  to  supper.  The  wind  increased,  and  blew 
very  hard  for  an  hour  or  more,  when  it  became  calmer; 
but  still  the  heavy  sea  came  rolling  towards  us,  mak- 
ing our  stout  bark  toss  and  pitch  about  as  if  old 
Neptune  were  irritated  at  her  sluggish  ways.  We 
congratulated  ourselves  at  our  easy  escape  from  the 
pampero , but  we  should  have  remembered  the 
old  saying,  “Never  shout  until  you  are  out  of  the 
wood.” 

As  we  were  below,  discussing  various  subjects,  we 
were  joined  by  the  cook,  who  descended  the  ladder, 
requesting  the  loan  of  a novel,  declaring  that  he  was 
dying  by  inches  of  the  “ onwy.”  “Get  out  of  this,  you 
and  your  trash  ! ” shouted  an  old  tar : “ this  is  no  place 
for  distinguished  characters.” 

But  the  “ doctor  ” did  not  appear  to  be  disconcerted 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVEE  PLATA. 


27 


in  the  least  at  this  rude  salutation  and  reference  to  his 
pretensions. 

“ Ah,  boys ! ” he  exclaimed,  with  a touch  of  senti- 
mentality, “ how  can  ye  be  so  boistherous  ? Here  we 
are,  every  hour  dhrawing  nearer  and  nearer  to  that 
mighty  river  which  runs  past  Buenos  Ayres ; and  does 
not  the  thought  of  it  inspire  ye  with  romantic  feelings  ? 
As  for  meeself,  I can  scarce  slape  at  night  for  the  ec- 
static thoughts  that  crowd  me  brain.  Ye  may  all 
laugh,”  he  continued,  as  some  of  the  sailors  interrupted 
him  with  a boisterous  laugh,  “ but  it  does  not  alter  the 
case  in  the  laste,  for  it  is  thrue.  To-night,  when  I was 
standing  in  the  galley,  the  thought  came  to  me,  that 
perhaps  the  boy  here,”  pointing  to  myself,  “ would  like 
a few  stanzas  of  poetry  for  his  dialogue  (diary),  which 
he  is  keeping ; so  I,  in  my  mind,  composed  a few  lines, 
which,  if  he  wants,  I will  recite  to  him. 

At  this,  some  of  the  sailors  exclaimed,  “ Get  out  of 
this,  for  a dirty  sea-cook  as  you  are,  and  don’t  attempt 
to  spoil  sensible  people.” 

I,  however,  said  that  I would  be  pleased  to  receive 
his  stanzas,  and,  preparing  my  pencil  and  paper,  wrote 
down  the  following  lines  as  he  recited  them,  together 
with  the  interpolations  and  remarks  of  the  sailors. 
Striking  a beatific  attitude,  the  poet  began  : — 

“ I saw  her ; yes,  I saw  her.” 

Old  Salt  (gruffly).  “What  if  you  did?  If  she  saw 
you,  she  sickened,  I dare  swear ! ” 

The  Doctor  (continuing). 

“ Tripping  along  so  gayly, 

With  mantilla  fluttering  in  the  wind.” 


28 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


Old  Salt  2 d.  “Shaking  in  the  wind’s  eye,  in  a 
squall.” 

The  Doctor . 

“ Eyes  like  a dove’s  in  mildness, 

Or  an  eagle’s  in  its  wildness.” 

Old  Salt  ls£.  “ More  like  a hen’s  with  one  chicken.” 
Old  Salt  3 d.  “Or  a sick  rooster  with  one  tail- 
feather.” 

The  Doctor. 

“ Smiles  they  were  sweet, 

Lips  together  did  meet.” 

Old  Salt  ls£  (dubiously).  “Lips  together  did  meet? 
I wonder,  mateys,  if  she  wasn’t  smacking  them  after  a 
glass  of  grog?” 

The  Doctor. 

“ Clamors  of  war  and  terrible  drums, 

Noise  of  trumpets  and  the  hum  of  tongues, 

Can  frighten  the  timid,  but  not  her ; 

For  brave  as  a lion,  dauntless  as  fire, 

She’s  ruled  by  love,  and  not  by  ire.” 

Here  some  of  the  sailors  pretended  to  faint ; others 
reeled  off  to  their  bunks,  saying  that  the  doctor’s 
poetry  was  “ worse  than  his  duff,  and  that  wasn’t  fit  to 
give  a measly  hog;”  while  one  old  fellow  ascended 
to  the  deck,  declaring  that  he  “couldn’t  sleep  after 
hearing  such  blasted  nonsense,  until  he  had  taken  a 
salt  junk  emetic.” 

The  doctor  would  have  continued  his  poetry,  not- 
withstanding the  ridicule  of  the  “ low,  ignorant  fellows,” 
as  he  called  them ; but  he  was  interrupted  by  the  voice 


PASSAGE  TO  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


29 


of  the  mate,  calling  down  to  the  cook  to  “ doctor  the 
binnacle  lamp,”  when  the  poet  hurried  up  the  com- 
panion-way, leaving  me  to  turn  in,  and  dream  of 

“Lips  that  together  did  meet, 

Clamors  of  wars,  and  terrible  drums,” 

until  the  man  at  the  wheel  struck  eight  bells. 


30 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


CHAPTER  II. 


IN  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


T length  the  day  for  making  preparations  for  near- 


ing land  arrived.  One  fine  afternoon  the  order 
was  given  to  have  everything  ready  for  entering  the  river. 
All  hands  were  kept  on  deck,  and  every  one  manifested 
an  unusual  readiness  to  work.  The  lashings  were  cut 
adrift  from  the  anchors;  the  chain  drawn  out  of  the 
locker,  and  overhauled  upon  the  deck;  and  the  other 
matters  attended  to,  which  are  n-ot  to  be  neglected  on 
a ship  about  coming  to  an  anchorage.  Towards  night, 
the  changing  color  of  the  water,  which  in  the  deep 
ocean  is  of  a dark  blue,  but  which  had  now  become 
of  a greenish  tinge,  told  us  of  the  proximity  of  land. 

At  sunrise  of  the  next  morning,  the  cry  of,  “ Land  on 
the  starboard  bow ! ” awoke  me  from  a sound  slumber. 
Hurrying  on  deck,  I was  able  to  discover  a faint  streak 
of  red  in  the  distant  horizon,  which  a sailor  declared  to 
be  “ the  loom  of  the  land ; ” and  by  eight  o’clock  the  low 
shores  of  the  Uruguayan  republic  were  distinctly  visi- 
ble from  our  deck,  and  the  monotony  of  our  sea  life  was 
at  an  end. 

As  it  was  necessary  to  take  a pilot  on  board,  we  were 
obliged  to  first  make  Montevideo,  the  great  seaport  of 
the  Banda  Oriental,  or  Uruguayan  republic,  which 


IN  THE  RIVER  PLATA. 


31 


country,  as  most  of  my  readers  are  doubtless  aware, 
was  formerly  a constant  bone  of  contention  between 
Buenos  Ayres  and  Brazil,  but  is  now  independent  of 
both,  and  according  to  all  accounts  promises  to  become 
the  greatest  producer  of  wool  of  the  South  American 
republics.  * 

A light  breeze  wafted  us  past  the  rocky  isle  of  Flores 
to  Montevideo,  where,  about  dusk,  we  dropped  anchor 
at  a distance  of  three  miles  from  the  shore. 

While  aloft,  I had  time  to  observe  that  a conical 
mountain,  with  smooth  sides,  and  crowned  by  an  old 
fort,  was  connected  with  the  main  land  by  a peninsula, 
in  such  a manner  that  a fine  bay  was  formed,  where  a 
large  fleet  of  vessels  were  lying  at  anchor.  The  fort 
on  the  mount  showed  alight, four  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  town  lies  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  to  the  eastward  of  the 
mountain,  from  which  fact  it  derives  its  name. 

By  the  time  the  sails  were  furled,  and  several  addi- 
tional ranges  of  chain  overhauled,  night  came  on,  and 
the  anchor  watch  was  set,  with  orders  to  call  the  mate 
if  it  lightened  in  the  south-west,  the  region  of  pam- 
peros. 

My  watch  was  from  nine  to  ten:  when  I was  re- 
lieved, I went  below  with  a light  heart,  and  “ turned 
in  ” to  my  bunk,  with  the  prospect  of  unbroken  rest. 
It  was  perhaps  an  hour  later  that  I was  awakened  by 
the  confused  sounds  on  deck,  caused  by  the  “ letting 
go  ” the  second  anchor,  and  the  loud  calling  down  the 
companion-way  for  “all  hands  on  deck.”  Hurrying 
above,  we  found  that  a pampero  had  struck  the  vessel, 
which  was  moving  through  the  water  at  the  rate  of  at 


32 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


least  four  miles  an  hour  before  the  force  of  the  hurri- 
cane. When  the  second  anchor  became  fast,  however, 
the  vessel’s  course  was  checked,  she  swung  around, 
broadside  to  the  wind,  and  held  her  ground.  The 
force  of  the  wind  striking  our  backs  was  so  great  that 
we  were  obliged  to  take  shelter  beneath  the  bulwarks 
to  recover  our  breath. 

The  darkness  wqs  intense,  save  when  flashes  of  light- 
ning illumined  every  headland  along  the  coast,  and 
threw  out  in  bold  relief  the  mountain  and  its  castle. 
But  duty  called  us  from  the  protection  of  the  bulwarks 
to  the  chain  lockers.  Vainly,  however,  did  the  officers 
vociferate  their  commands;  not  a word  could  we  un- 
derstand ; but  we  instinctively  laid  hold  of  the  chain, 
and,  guided  by  flashes  of  lightning,  paid  out  many 
fathoms.  Hardly  had  we  accomplished  our  object  in 
giving  scope  to  the  cable,  when  a noise  like  thunder 
announced  that  one  of  the  ^ails,  the  main  spencer,  had 
broken  adrift,  and  in  an  instant  it  beat  and  clattered 
across  the  quarter-deck.  From  side  to  side  it  tore,  cut- 
ting the  rigging  to  pieces,  with  the  block'  at  its  clew. 
Half  an  hour’s  labor  was  ineffectual  in  securing  the 
sail,  though  ends  of  braces  were  strongly  passed  around 
it ; it  continually  broke  loose,  tumbling  upon  the  deck 
all  the  men  who  were  clinging  to  it,  and  we  might  have 
labored  much  longer,  had  not  Manuel  crawled  aloft, 
and  cut  the  sail  adrift,  by  coming  down  the  jack-stay, 
knife  in  hand. 

The  spencer  had  not  been  securely  fastened  before 
from  between  the  harness-casks,  the  mizzen  staysail, 
which  had  been  carefully  furled,  seemed  endowed  with 
life,  for  in  an  instant  it  ran  up  its  stay  like  a bird,  and 
was  at  once  torn  to  shreds. 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  HURRICANE. 


33 


At  this  point  the  prospect  was  fair  for  a wreck.  The 
captain  brought  an  axe  on  deck  to  prepare  for  the  last 
resort.  But  such  a fierce  wind  fortunately  could  not 
last  long ; its  own  force  must  prove  exhaustive : it  soon 
came  only  in  gusts,  and  two  hours  later  it  had  greatly 
subsided. 

The  scene  now  around  us  challenged  our  attention ; 
and,  until  morning,  I leaned  across  the  rail,  completely 
engrossed  with  the  many  curious  phenomena  before  me. 

The  air  was  filled  with  electrical  flashes,  which  at 
times  rendered  the  tall  mount  plainly  visible,  and 
brought  out  the  spars  of  the  fleet  in  the  bay  in  weird- 
like prominence  against  the  gloomy  background. 

The  fort  on  the  height  seemed  clothed  with  flame, 
while  the  short,  quick  waves  around  the  vessel  gleamed 
with  phosphorescent  light.  Th q pampero  had  struck  the 
vessel  during  the  watch  succeeding  mine,  and  the  man 
on  duty  became  so  frightened  that  he  did  not  call  the 
mate.  Luckily,  that  officer  discovered  the  true  state 
of  affairs  in  time  to  prevent  a serious  disaster. 

The  dawn  of  the  following  morning  revealed  a sight 
such  as  might  be  expected  after  so  violent  a hurricane. 
In  one  part  of  the  harbor  were  two  vessels,  whose  crews 
were  hard  at  work  in  clearing  them  from  the  entangle- 
ment of  their  rigging,  which  was  completely  wrecked. 

Close  by  lay  two  others,  with  their  topmasts  gone, 
and  in  the  distance  were  many  others  in  a similar  con- 
dition ; while  from  the  town  came  floating  logs,  boxes, 
barrels,  and  other  lumber  in  great  quantities,  telling  of 
the  havoc  of  the  pampero . 

The  effect  of  the*  wind  was  even  felt  to  a greater  ex- 
tent farther  up  the  river,  where  some  fifteen  or  twenty 
3 


34 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


small  vessels  were  capsized,  and  many  of  the  crews 
drowned. 

A new  and  beautiful  English  bark,  that  had  left 
her  anchorage  for  Buenos  Ayres  the  night  before,  we 
saw  two  days  afterwards ; but  she  was  nothing  but  a 
dismantled  hulk,  with  only  the  stump  of  her  mizzenmast 
left:  every  spar  had  been  blown  away,  and  one  of  her 
men  killed  by  a falling  mast. 

Though  the  pampero  season  generally  lasts  from 
March  to  September,  this  wind  is  likely  to  blow  at  any 
time;  and  a careful  captain  will  always  be  prepared 
for  it.  The  state  of  the  mercury  in  his  barometer,  to- 
gether with  the  appearance  of  the  heavens  in  the  south- 
west, must  be  carefully  watched.  These  winds,  coming 
from  the  cold  summits  of  the  Andes,  sweep  first  across 
an  undulating,  then  a flat  country;  and,  meeting  no 
obstacle  to  break  their  force,  do  great  damage  to  the  set- 
tlements about  Buenos  Ayres,  as  well  as  to  the  shipping 
in  the  River  Plata,  and»are  felt  many  miles  out  to  sea. 

The  River  Plata,  at  its  entrance,  between  Cape  St. 
Mary  on  the  north  coast,  and  Cape  St.  Antonio  on  the 
south,  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles ; and  we  can 
see  that  the  pampero , in  traversing  this  broad  channel, 
has  a most  unobstructed  course. 

At  noon  a pilot  came  aboard,  bearing  a letter  from 
the  owner’s  agent ; and  at  about  eleven  o’clock  the  fol- 
lowing night  we  hove  up  both  anchors,  and,  with  a fine 
breeze,  sailed  up  the  river.  Thirty-six  hours  later,  we 
dropped  anchor  in  the  outer  roads  of  Buenos  Ayres, 
seven  or  eight  miles  from  the  city,  whose  plastered 
dwellings  and  lofty  cathedral  were  plainly  seen  from 
the  decks  of  our  vessel. 


BUENOS  AYEES. 


85 


CHAPTER  III. 

BUENOS  AYRES.  — THE  PROVINCE  AND  CITY. 
OR  a whole  month  I was  obliged  to  remain  by 


the  vessel,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  orders 
that  were  to  set  me  free.  During  this  period,  to  pre- 
pare the  vessel  for  a long  stay,  the  lighter  spars  were 
sent  down,  the  flying  jib-boom  sent  in,  sails  unbent, 
&g.  The  tides  in  the  River  Plata  are  governed  by 
the  wind,  and  have  no  regularity  in  rising ; the  cur- 
rent of  the  river  is  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  per  hour. 
Vessels  drawing  above  eleven  feet  of  water  remain  in 
the  outer  roads,  while  smaller  craft  can  approach  with- 
in two  or  three  miles  of  the  city ; all  of  these  discharge 
and  receive  their  cargoes  by  the  assistance  of  lighters, 
generally  schooner-rigged,  and  principally  manned  by 
foreigners,  — chiefly  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and  Por- 
tuguese. 

At  last,  about  the  20th  of  February,  a Boston  vessel 
entered  the  river,  bringing  letters  from  home,  and  I 
was  gratified  by  the  information  from  the  captain,  that, 
after  seeing  the  American  consul,  who  had  received 
orders  to  discharge  me  from  duty,  I should  be  at  lib- 
erty to  depart  on  my  long  pedestrian  journey.  I went 
ashore  at  the  earliest  opportunity,  and  at  once  called 
upon  Colonel  Joseph  Graham,  the  American  consul, 


36 


A THOUSAND  MILES7  WALK. 


who  received  me  with  great  kindness,  but  condemned 
my  intention  of  crossing,  alone,  so  wild  a country, 
with  the  people  and  language  of  which  I had  no  ac- 
quaintance ; he,  however,  furnished  me  with  the  neces- 
sary papers  of  protection,  together  with  letters  of  intro- 
duction to  various  persons  in  the  interior.  During  my 
stay  in  the  consul’s  office  Dr.  Henry  Kennedy,  a young 
North  American  physician,  came  in,  arid  although  a 
stranger  to  me,  presented  me,  after  a few  minutes’  con- 
versation, with  a letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  G — n,  a 
resident  of  Rosario.  This  act  of  kindness  towards  a 
stranger  proved  the  generous  character  of  Dr.  Kenne- 
dy, and  it  is  with  a feeling  of  gratitude  that  I recall 
his  name  here.  I was  now  my  own  master,  and  at 
once  went  about  the  city  in  search  of  information  rela- 
tive to  crossing  the  country. 

The  consul  and  one  or  two  other  parties  had  given 
me  the  names  of  persons  to  whom  I was  to  apply  for 
the  necessary  information  to  guide  me  in  my  journey. 
I was  surprised,  however,  to  find  that  the  foreign  mer- 
chants knew  so  little  of  the  interior ; for,  after  several 
days’  inquiry,  the  principal  fact  that  I learned  was, 
that  to  cross  the  pampas  on  foot  it  would  be  necessary 
to  accompany  one  of  the  troops  of  carts  that  carried 
merchandise  to  the  other  provinces,  as  otherwise  I 
would  find  it  impossible  to  obtain  food  or  to  follow  the 
right  trail.  One  of  my  informants  was  a stout  little 
Irish  gentleman,  who  quoted  a message  sent  to  Sir 
Woodbine  Parish,  by  a gentleman  who  crossed  the 
country  several  years  before ; and  as  his  description  is 
almost  true  of  the  Buenos  Ayrean,  or  southern  road 
across  the  pampas,  I will  present  it  here.  He  said, 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PAMPAS.  37 

“ The  country  is  more  uninteresting  than  any  I ever 
travelled  over,  in  any  quarter  of  the  globe.  I should 
divide  it  into  five  regions  ; first,  that  of  thistles,  inhab- 
ited by  owls  and  biscachas ; second,  that  of  grass,  where 
you  meet  with  deer,  ostriches,  and  the  screaming, 
horned  plover;  third,  the  region  of  swamps  and  mo- 
rasses, only  fit  for  frogs ; fourth,  that  of  stones  and 
ravines,  where  I expected  every  moment  to  be  upset ; 
and,  last,  that  of  ashes  and  thorny  shrubs,  the  refuge 
of  the  tarantula  and  binchuco,  or  giant-bug. 

“And  now,”  continued  the  little  Irishman,  “I  ask 
leave  to  put  you  a question.  How  many  days  can  you 
conveniently  go  without  water  ? 

“ Two  or  three,  perhaps,”  I replied. 

“ Well,  then,  you  will  never  last  to  cross  the  plains,” 
was  his  encouraging  answer ; “ for,  mark  you,  a merchant 
of  this  city  crossed  last  summer,  and  went  without  water 
for  twenty-one  days.  I think  you  had  better  return  to 
America,  and  give  up  travelling  for  information.” 

Such  were  the  stories  — some  true,  and  many,  like 
that  of  the  Irishman,  utterly  fabulous  — that  were  told 
me  by  the  different  individuals  upon  whom  I called 
during  my  short  stay  in  Buenos  Ayres.  In  the  course 
of  my  inquiries  I learned  that  a train  of  wagons  would 
shortly  leave  Rosario,  a small  town  upon  the  River 
Parana,  about  two  hundred  miles  north  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  for  Mendoza,  a town  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  Andes,  and  I resolved  to  visit  the  place  in  time 
to  catch  the  caravan.  A steamboat  plied  between 
the  city  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Rosario,  but  as  it 
was  not  to  sail  for  a fortnight,  I had  ample  time 
for  surveying  the  adjacent  country,  and  even  for 


38  A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK 

making  a flying  visit  across  the  Plata  to  the  Banda 
Oriental. 

The  State  of  Buenos  Ayres  usually  monopolizes  the 
attention  of  visitors  to  the  region  which  is  known  as 
the  Argentine  Confederation,  on  account  of  her  favor- 
able situation  on  the  seaboard,  her  possession  of  the 
only  maritime  port  in  the  vast  confederacy,  and  the 
predominating  influence  which  these  advantages  have 
secured  to  her  in  peace  as  well  as  in  war.  The  state 
contains  an  area  of  fifty-two  thousand  square  miles, 
and  is,  consequently,  but  little  larger  than  the  State  of 
New  York.  Her  population,  according  to  an  estimate 
formed  some  ten  years  since,  amounted  to  some  three 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  souls ; of  whom  one 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  are  inhabitants  of  the 
city,  while  the  remainder  are  sparsely  distributed  over 
the  extensive  plains  that  commence  a few  miles  from 
the  coast,  and,  running  inland,  stretch  across  and  far 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  state.  The  population  of  the 
city  itself  is  composed  of  a great  variety  of  types  and 
colors,  among  which,  however,  the  whites  are  rapidly 
predominating ; as  every  year  introduces  new  blood 
from  Europe  and  North  America,  while  parties  inter- 
ested are  doing  their  best,  in  connection  with  the  gov- 
ernment, to  divert  a portion  of  the  Irish  immigration 
from  the  United  States  towards  their  own  province. 
The  government  furnishes  immigrants  with  land  free 
of  charge,  but  an  extortionate  price  is  not  unfrequently 
paid,  in  the  end,  for  a farm. 

The  study  of  the  mixed  races  which  inhabit,  not 
only  this  province,  but  also  the  entire  region  between 
the  Parana  and  the  Cordillera,  has  as  yet  received  but 


EESOUECES  OF  BUENOS  AYEES. 


39 


little  attention  from  the  student  of  ethnology.  The 
lines  of  demarcation,  however,  between  race  and  race, 
are  clear  and  distinct ; and  the  future  ethnographer  of 
this  region  will  have  no  difficulty  in  tracing  the  popu- 
lation, through  its  intermediate  stages  of  gauchos,  zam- 
bas,  mestizos,  etc.;  to  its  origin  with  the  immigration 
from  Old  Spain  and  other  European  countries,  and  to 
the  aboriginal  and  negro  stocks. 

Throughout  the  state  the  soil  is  richly  alluvial  to 
a depth  of  two  or  more  feet,  beneath  which  lies  a 
stratum  of  clay,  differing  in  kind  and  quality  according 
to  its  location.  Thus  strata  of  white,  yellow,  and  red 
clays  have  been  discovered  in  different  regions  o*f  the 
same  province,  furnishing  the  population  with  abun- 
dant material  for  the  manufacture  of  tiles,  bricks,  and 
innumerable  article's  of  pottery. 

For  nearly  two  hundred  miles  west  of  the  La  Plata, 
the  soil  produces  a luxuriant  growth  of  herbage,  which 
is  choked,  however,  in  many  places,  by  extensive  forests 
of  gigantic  thistles,  which  grow  to  such  a height  that 
men,  passing  through  them  on  horseback,  are  hidden 
by  the  lofty  stems.  So  heavy  is  this  growth  that,  at 
times,  the  thistle  fields  are  impassable  to  man,  and 
serve  to  the  wild  animals  of  the  pampas  as  an  undis- 
turbed lair.  These  thistles  are  fired,  from  time  to  time, 
by  the  gauchos  ; after  the  ground  that  they  covered  has 
been  burnt  over,  a fine  sweet  crop  of  grass  starts  up, 
upon  which  the  cattle  feed  luxuriantly. 

A native  author,  of  eminent  accuracy,  who  has  care- 
fully studied  the  statistics  and  resources  of  the  prov- 
ince of  Buenos  Ayres,  has  published  the  following 
estimate  of  the  value  of  real  estate  and  other  property 
in  the  country,  in  1855  : — 


40 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


State  of  Buenos  Ayres , its  Extent , Value , <£c. 
Fifty-two  thousand  miles  of  uncultivated 
lands,  at  $1000  per  square  mile,  . . . $52,000,000 

Six  million  head  of  cattle,  at  $6  per  head,  36,000,000 
Three  million  mares,  at  $1  per  head,  . . 3,000,000 

Five  million  sheep,  at  $1  per  head,  . . . 5,000,000 

Half  a million  swine,  at  $1  per  head,  . . 500,000 

Houses,  &c.,  in  the  country, 10,000,000 

Total  value, $106,500,000 

The  following  statement,  derived  from  the  Buenos 
Ayre§  Custom  House,  for  the  first  six  months  of  1854, 
may  serve  as  a means  of  estimating  the  number  of 
horned  cattle  in  the  state  : — 

Hides  exported  in  six  months,  1854,  . . . 759,968 

Deduct  quantity  received  from  the  provinces,  121,166 

Total  exports  of  Buenos  Ayres  hides,  in  six 

months, 638,802 

Add  a corresponding  six  months’  exports 

for  balance  of  the  year, 638,802 

Estimated  export  for  1854, 1,277,604 

The  following  were  some  of  the  agricultural  produc- 
tions of  Buenos  Ayres  in  1854,  as  computed  by  Senor 
Maezo : — 


Th z faneza  is  nearly  equal  to  four  English  imperial 
bushels,  or  to  2218.192  cubic  inches. 


Wheat,  . . . , 
Maize  and  barley, 
Potatoes,  . . , 


200,000  fanezas. 

70.000  “ 

60.000  “ 


BUENOS  AYRES. 


41 


Of  late  years  the  value  of  provisions,  hides,  tallow, 
and  horns  has  been  greatly  enhanced. 

I am  Informed  that  under  the  government  of  Gen- 
eral Rosas,  the  price  of  beef  was  fixed  by  law  at  fifteen 
cents  per  arroba  (twenty-five  pounds),  and  that  the 
severest  punishment  was  inflicted  for  any  attempt  to 
evade  or  infringe  upon  the  regulation.  The  price  of 
beef  during  my  stay  in  the  province  was  never  less 
than  sixty  cents  per  arroba. 

Frequent  revolutions  have  naturally  hindered,  in  a 
very  great  degree,  the  development  of  the  resources 
of  this  province.  Since  1810-11  it  Jias  been  subjected 
to  continual  and  sudden  changes  of  government:  at 
one  moment,  as  it  were,  attempting  to  form  the  corner- 
stone of  a vast  confederation,  in  a short  time  the  scene 
of  the  wildest  anarchy,  and  soon  prostrate  under  one 
of  the  most  grinding  despotisms  that  the  nineteenth 
century  has  beheld. 

Buenos  Ayres,  the  richest  and  most  powerful  of  the 
provinces  of  La  Plata,  holds  herself  aloof  from  the  re- 
mainder, preferring  a state  of  isolation,  through  dislike 
for  President  TJrquiza,  to  joining  with  her  sister  states 
in  laying  the  foundation  of  a strong  and  permanent 
confederacy.  Her  import  and  export  duties,  together 
with  port  charges,  stamps,  direct  taxes,  &c.,  constitute 
a considerable  revenue;  and  these  resources  would, 
undoubtedly,  give  her  a powerful  influence  over  the 
other  states  should  she  finally  become  a part  of  the 
Argentine  Confederation.  Though  a coolness,  almost 
amounting  to  ill-will,  is  manifested  by  the  people  of 
Buenos  Ayres  towards  those  of  the  neighborhood  prov- 
inces, a treaty  has  been  lately  signed  by  the  two 


42 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


governments,  in  which  each  promises  aid  and  assist- 
ance to  the  other  in  case  of  attack  from  a neighboring 
or  foreign  power.  It  is  evident,  from  their  careful 
movements,  that  all  the  La  Plata  states  stand  in  dread 
of  their  grasping  and  powerful  neighbor  the  empire 
of  Brazil. 

The  city  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  laid  out  in  the  usual 
Spanish-American  manner  — in  squares,  measuring  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  upon  a side;  the  streets,  of 
course,  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  run  due 
north  and  south,  east  and  west.  They  are  regular 
throughout,  but  are  very  roughly  paved.  With  some 
exceptions  the  dwellings  are  of  but  one  story  in  height, 
and  are  built  of  brick,  overlaid  with  a white  plaster, 
which  gives  them  a very  neat  appearance;  but  the 
heavy  iron  gratings  with  which  every  window  is  pro- 
tected detract  not  a little  from  the  beauty  of  the 
dwellings;  and  a stranger  unaccustomed  to  Spanish 
architecture  may  readily,  at  the  first  sight  of  these  for- 
bidding gratings,  believe  himself  among  the  prisons  of 
the  city.  The  roofs  are  covered  with  oval  or  square 
tiles. 

Buenos  Ayres  is  rich  in  public  institutions.  Her 
theatres  and  places  of  public  resort  are  eight  in  num- 
ber, besides  the  governor’s  mansion,  the  House  of 
Representatives,  and  the  Casa  de  Justicia,  or  Hall  of 
Justice.  Besides  these  may  be  enumerated  the  Tribu- 
nal of  Commerce,  the  Inspection  of  Arms,  the  Artillery 
Arsenal,  the  Ecclesiastical  Seminary,  the  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  Public  Library,  Custom  House,  Mint, 
Bank,  and  Jail. 

The  treatment  of  the  inmates  of  the  latter  institution 


BUENOS  AYRES. 


43 


secures  for  them  a degree  of  comfort  far  less  than  that 
which  is  reached  in  our  own  reformatory  institutions. 

In  addition  to  the  public  buildings  enumerated 
above,  there  are  also  suites  of  rooms  occupied  by  the 
Ecclesiastical  Court,  the  General  Archives,  Topograph- 
ical Department,  Statistical  Department,  Medical  Acad- 
emy, Historical  Institute,  etc. 

The  citizens  of  Buenos  Ayres  have  well  provided  for 
the  unfortunate.  Besides  granting  licenses  to  mendi- 
cants, and  allowing  them  to  go  from  door  to  door  on 
horseback , the  municipality  has  established  an  asylum 
for  orphans  and  a foundling  hospital. 

Besides  the  cathedral,  there  are  thirteen  Catholic 
churches,  two  monasteries,  and  three  convents.  There 
are  two  hospitals,  one  for  males,  the  other  for  females; 
but  these  institutions  have  neither  the  conveniences 
nor  skilful  physicians  which  those  of  more  enlightened 
or  longer  established  countries  possess.  There  are 
also  three  foreign  hospitals,  supported  by  the  English, 
French,  and  Italian  governments. 

The  plazas , or  public  squares,  are  nine  or  ten  in 
number ; one  of  them  is  overlooked  by  the  lofty  cathe- 
dral and  by  the  Casa  de  Justicia,  and  contains  a monu- 
ment, erected  in  commemoration  of  past  events  of 
national  importance,  and  especially  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence  from  the  mother  country. 

Many  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  city  in 
late  years,  chief  among  which  is  the  new  brick  sea- 
wall, of  considerable  height,  protecting  the  town  from 
damage  by  high  tides  of  the  river. 

From  this  wall,  projecting  into  the  stream,  there  was 
in  process  of  construction  at  the  time  of  my  arrival  a 


44 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


mole  or  wliarf,  of  great  length,  which  has  since  been 
completed,  enabling  small  vessels  and  lighters  to  dis- 
charge their  cargoes  unassisted  by  the  clumsy  carts 
that  formerly  were  the  sole  means  of  communication 
with  the  shore.  The  piles  that  support  this  wharf  are 
pointed  with  iron,  a precaution  rendered  necessary  by 
the  peculiarly  hard  formation  of  the  river  bed  at  this 
locality. 

As  the  soil  is  impregnated  with  nitrate  of  potash, 
the  well  and  other  water  is  rendered  unfit  for  table 
use.  The  wealthier  citizens  have  deep  cisterns  at  their 
residences,  in  which  rain  water  is  preserved ; but  the 
poorer  classes  have  no  other  beverage  than  the  river 
water,  which  is  carried  around  the  city  in  barrels,  upon 
horses  and  mules,  and  retailed  at  a moderate  price. 

Slavery,  which  existed  in  these  regions  in  a mild 
form  until  1813,  was,  during  that  year,  abolished  by 
law.  The  system  never  assumed,  in  point  of  fact, 
that  form  which  existed  in  our  own  republic,  but 
was  so  lenient  that  the  slaves  were  treated  rather  as 
children,  or  favorite  servants,  than  as  merely  so  much 
property. 

Its  gradual  extinction  set  in  many  years  before  the 
period  of  legislation  upon  the  subject.  During  the 
struggle  for  independence,  the  slave  frequently  fought 
side  by  side  with  his  master,  and  manifested  an  equal 
anxiety  with  him  to  be  liberated  from  the  dominion  of 
Spain.  In  consideration  of  services  rendered  during 
these  patriotic  struggles,  and  from  a conviction  that 
the  system  was  far  from  beneficial  to  a newly-organ- 
ized republic,  the  slaves  were  emancipated,  and  their 
descendants  now  form  a valuable  and  active  class,  re- 


DON  SARMIENTO. 


45 


taining  little  of  the  indolence  usually  ascribed  to  the 
unfortunate  races  from  which  they  sprung. 

During  the  ascendency  of  Rosas,  the  negro  popula- 
tion was  devotedly  attached  to  Dona  Manuelita,  his 
celebrated  daughter,  and  their  influence  with  her  was 
almost  boundless.  It  is  related  that  in  1840,  while  an 
attack  by  Lavalle  was  momentarily  expected,  a young 
man  from  the  town  of  San  Juan  was  in  Buenos  Ayres, 
and  was  forbidden,  under  pain  of  death,  to  leave  the 
city.  An  aged  negress,  who  had,  in  former  years,  been 
in  the  service  of  his  family,  happened  to  recognize 
him,  and  learned  his  anxiety  to  depart.  “ All  right, 
my  friend ! ” she  said ; “ I will  go  at  once,  and  get 
you  a passport.”  “ Impossible ! ” exclaimed  the  young 
man.  “Not  at  all,”  replied  the  negress.  “La  Senorita 
Manuelita  will  not  deny  it  to  me.” 

In  a quarter  of  an  hour  she  brought  a passport, 
signed  by  Rosas,  enjoining  his  mercenaries  to  oppose 
no  hinderance  to  the  bearer’s  departure. 

Thus  gained  over  by  petty  favors  from  the  all-pow- 
erful dictator,  the  negroes  formed  a corps  of  zealous 
spies  and  adherents  of  Rosas,  whose  secret  observa- 
tions were  carried  on  in  the  very  midst  of  the  families 
whom  he  suspected.  They  also  formed  a brigade  of 
excellent  troops,  on  whose  fidelity  he  was  able  to  rely 
at  all  times. 

Don  Domingo  F.  Sarmiento,  from  one  of  whose 
works  the  above  anecdote  is  derived,  is  one  of  the 
most  enlightened  patriots  and  philosophers  of  South 
America.  He  is  a native  of  San  Juan,  a town  in  the 
interior  of  the  Confederation,  but  has  travelled  exten- 
sively in  Europe  and  the  United  States,  and  was  for 


46 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


many  years  a resident  of  Chili,  whither  he  was  ban- 
ished by  Rosas  in  1840.  He  has  done  much  by  his 
writings  to  advance  a practical  knowledge  both  of  the 
principles  of  agriculture  and  of  education  in  his  native 
country,  and  is  earnestly  endeavoring  to  secure  the 
cooperation  of  the  government  and  legislature  of  Bu- 
enos Ayres  in  the  advancement  of  those  sciences.  He 
desires  to  see  some  portion  of  the  European  emigration 
diverted  from  the  United  States  to  Buenos  Ayres,  the 
government  of  which  province,  indeed,  offers  land  free- 
ly to  all  who  will  settle  in  the  interior ; and  he  has  re- 
cently published,  among  other  valuable  works,  a treatise 
on  agriculture  and  education,  entitled  “ Plan  combi- 
nado  de  Education  comun , Silvicultura  e Industria 
Pastoril ,”  especially  designed  for  the  province  of  Buenos 
Ayres.  He  is  also  translating  into  Spanish  the  writ- 
ings of  Adams,  Jefferson,  and  others  of  our  early  states- 
men, which  we  may  hope  will  enlighten  the  Spanish 
republics  of  South  America  on  a subject  that  they 
seem  at  best  to  very  imperfectly  understand. 

A word  concerning  the  currency  of  this  province, 
and  I will  dismiss  it  from  the  reader’s  attention.  Rosas, 
before  he  was  driven  from  power,  established  a paper 
currency,  which,  being  of  small  nominal  value,  was  in- 
tended to  supply  the  place  of  coin.  These  bills  were 
struck  off  with  the  value  of  from  one  to  several  hun- 
dred pesos  stamped  upon  them.  But  their  value  fluc- 
tuated to  such  an  extent,  that  while  at  one  time  one 
Spanish  dollar  could  purchase  twenty  pesos , a few 
weeks  later  not  eight  could  be  obtained  with  the  same 
sum.  At  the  present  time  a peso  is  valued  at  four  or 
five  cents  of  our  money. 


ROSAS. 


47 


It  is  said  that  the  president,  having  put  this  currency 
into  circulation,  realized  thousands  of  dollars  from  it 
by  monopolizing  the  money  market,  and  causing  the 
paper  to  rise  or  depreciate  at  his  pleasure.  I have 
seen  a four -real  piece  coined  by  him,  or  by  order  of  his 
goverment  (which  amounted  to  the  same  thing),  with 
these  words  stamped  upon  it:  “Eterno  Rosas”  (Eternal 
Rosas).  This  man  was,  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  a 
tyrant  — cool,  calculating,  and  selfish  ; possessed  of  a 
degree  of  cunning  and  penetration,  that  aided  him  in 
discovering  his  most  secret  enemies.  Ruthless  in  the 
execution  of  his  designs,  he  spared  neither  age  nor 
sex ; even  the  venerable  mayor,  his  earliest  friend,  his 
more  than  father,  was  murdered  in  cold  blood  by  a 
party  of  mcisorgueros  (men  of  the  Masorca,  or  club,  a 
band  of  butchers  and  assassins,  on  whom  Rosas  relied 
for  the  perpetuation  of  his  reign  of  terror),  at  the  bid- 
ding of  their  atrocious  chief. 

In  a work  published  at  Montevideo,  in  1845,  by 
Don  Jose  Rivera  Indarte,  a native  of  Buenos  Ayres,  he 
gives  the  following  estimate  of  the  numbers  who  died 
through  the  hatred  or  Caprice  of  Rosas : Poisoned,  4 ; 
executed  with  the  sword,  3765;  shot,  1393;  assassi- 
nated, 722,  — total,  5884.  Add  this  to  the  numbers 
slain  in  battle,  and  those  executed  by  military  orders, 
at  a moderate  computation  16,520,  we  have  22,404 
victims.  If  we  deduct  from  this  — allowing  some  lati- 
tude for  the  prejudices  of  Senor  Indarte  — one  third 
for  exaggeration,  we  still  have  14,936,  — a fearful  aggre- 
gate of  victims  to  the  ambition  of  a Gaucho  chief. 

But  his  career  has  ended ; the  exiled  patriots  have 
returned  from  Brazil  and  Chili,  and  in  place  of  his 


48 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


there  exists  another,  and,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  a better, 
government.  He  was  at  one  time  the  absolute  ruler 
of  his  country ; and  his  long  and  cruel  reign  has  left  an 
effect  upon  its  inhabitants  which  many  years  of. wise 
legislation  alone  can  eradicate. 


VISIT  TO  THE  TIGBE  AND  BANDA  OMENTAL.  49 


CHAPTER  IV. 

VISIT  TO  THE.  TIGRE  AND  BANDA  ORIENTAL. 

rn HE  steamer  in  which  I expected  to  embark  for 

1 Rosario,  on  the  Parana  River,  would  not  sail  from 
Buenos  Ayres  for  ten  days  or  a fortnight,  and  I began 
to  look  around  me  for  some  occupation,  by  means  of 
which  I might  become  more  acquainted  with  the  locali- 
ties about  the  city.  I was  eager  to  visit  the  gaucho  in 
his  home  upon  the  pampas ; and  when  a young  man, 
who  had  just  arrived  from  New  York,  invited  me  to 
accompany  him  across  the  Plata  to  the  Republic  of 
Uruguay,  I did  not  -wait  for  a second  invitation,  but 
accepted  his  offer  upon  the  spot. 

I knew  nothing  more  of  this  young  man  than  that 
he  had  come  to  Buenos  Ayres  recommended  to  the 
first  merchant  of  the  place ; but  that  his  purpose  for 
the  visit  was  a secret  one,  I did  not  at  the  time  sus- 
pect. He  prepared  himself  for  the  journey  by  simply 
providing  himself  with  a large  blanket,  a revolver  pis- 
tol, and  a sounding-rod.  The  first  two  articles  seemed 
rational  enough ; but  the  rod,  which  he  carried  as  a cane, 
required  an  explanation. 

We  received  from  a countryman  a letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Edward  Hopkins,  Esq.,  who  was  about  to  sail 
in  the  “ Asuncion  ” for  the  north  side  of  the  river.  This 
4 


50 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


gentleman  was  at  the  River  Tigre,  twenty-one  miles 
from  Buenos  Ayres,  and  acted  as  agent  for  the  United 
States  and  Paraguay  Navigation  Company.  As  there 
was  no  other  way  for  crossing  the  Plata  to  the  particu- 
lar part  of  the  coast  where  my  friend  wished  to  land, 
he  decided  to  visit  the  Tigre,  and  embark  in  the 
Asuncion. 

Having  bargained  for  seats  with  the  driver  of  the 
diligence  that  ran  between  Buenos  Ayres  and  the  vil- 
lage of  San  Fernando,  near  the  Tigre,  we  set  out  one 
fine  morning,  accompanied  by  a native  gentleman,  who 
spoke  English  imperfectly. 

Our  cocker o was  a conceited  fellow,  and  felt  the  dig- 
nity of  office  to  an  unnecessary  degree.  We  had  no 
little  amusement  during  our  journey  with  him  in 
watching  the  phases  of  his  character:  once,  when 
the  cart  of  a milkman  became  entangled  in  the  harness 
of  our  horses,  he  became  so  laughable  in  his  wounded 
pride  and  impotent  rage,  that  we  had  difficulty  in  re- 
straining our  faces  to  a decently  sober  appearance.  As 
we  became  disentangled,  and  drove  on,  he,  in  the  midst 
of  a volley  of  carrambas , denounced  all  cartmen  who 
had  the  impudence  to  cross  the  track  of  the  mail-coach. 
And  such,  in  fact,  his  vehicle  was ; but,  as  we  noticed 
that  the  contents  of  the  mail,  instead  of  being  confined 
in  a mail-bag,  or  other  suitable  receptacle,  were  scat- 
tered here  and  there  in  various  corners  of  the  coach, 
some  tucked  beneath  the  cushions,  and  others  lying 
under  our  feet,  the  opinion  that  we  formed  of  the  native 
postal  arrangements  was  not  of  the  highest. 

For  nearly  a league  we  passed  over  a Macadamized 
road,  shaded  here  and  there  by  willows  that  ran  along 


THE  COUNTRY  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS. 


51 


the  river.  We  soon  passed  the  deserted  quinta  of 
General  Rosas.  The  house  was  built  upon  arches,  the 
materials  being  brick  and  plaster.  Around  it  were  arti- 
ficial groves,  and  little  lakes  and  canals  of  water. 

To  the  right  of  the  house,  on  the  side  nearest  the 
city,  were  numerous  little  brick  buildings,  where  the 
tyrant  quartered  his  troops.  The  situation  was  very 
beautiful,  and  the  surroundings  altogether  were  inter- 
esting. . 

Farther  on  were  casas  (houses)  of  country  gentle- 
men, with  orchards  of'  peach,  olive,  and  quince,  which, 
with  the  foliage  of  many  varieties  of  shrubs,  made  the 
prospect  on  all  sides  most  beautiful. 

If  a well-regulated  estate  particularly  attracted  our 
attention,  we  universally  found,  on  inquiry,  that  its 
owner  was  a foreigner,  whom  the  cochero  dignified  by 
the  low  word  gringo , which  is  equivalent  to  “paddy” 
in  our  own  language ; and  in  this  estimation,  I after- 
wards found,  our  countrymen  and  all  strangers  are 
held  by  the  indolent  and  treacherous  country  people. 

Wheat,  potatoes,  onions,  beans,  tomatoes,  &c.,  thrive 
wonderfully  upon  the  farms ; and,  if  the  whole  agricul- 
tural department  were  in  foreign  hands,  the  country, 
with  its  fine  climate,  and  rich  and  easily-worked 
lands,  could  produce  almost  every  kind  of  vegetable. 
With  the  excejition  of  a few  English  and  Scotch,  the 
French  from  the  Basque  provinces  are  the  most  ener- 
getic and  thrifty  farmers.  In  a few  instances  the  Yan- 
kee plough  has  been  used  with  great  success,  in  place 
of  the  miserable  wooden  one  of  the  natives. 

We  met  large  covered  wagons  carrying  produce  to 
the  city,  and  troops  of  mules  and  donkeys  freighted 


52 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


with  thistles,  in  bundles,  to  heat  the  ovens  of  the 
bakers;  also  others  with  peach  and  willow  trees,  which 
had  been  raised  for  firewood,  an  article  bringing  a good 
price,  on  account  of  its  scarcity. 

As  we  approached  the  Tigre  and  Las  Conchas,  we 
found  that  the  country  is  undulating ; but  beyond  the 
line  of  the  latter,  it  stretches  out  into  the  pampas  as 
far  as  the  vision  can  reach. 

The  diligence  entered  San  Fernando  about  noon; 
we  found  it  a little  town,  surrounded  with  fruit  trees 
left  to  the  care  of  nature,  the  people  being  satisfied 
with  her  products  without  wasting  time  in  laboring  to 
improve  them. 

Two  miles  distant  was  the  River  Tigre,  which  emp- 
ties its  waters  into  the  wide  Plata ; towards  the  river 
we  directed  our  steps,  and  we  arrived  in  time  to  dine 
with  Edward  Hopkins,  Esq.,  the  gentleman  whom  we 
had  come  to  visit. 

Mr.  Hopkins,  who  has  acted  as  our  consul  in  Para- 
guay, and  as  agent  for  the  United  States  and  Paraguay 
Navigation  Company,  invited  us  aboard  the  little 
steamer  Asuncion,  which  had  been  put  together  at  this 
place  a short  time  before. 

This  company  had  been  formed  in  the  United  States 
for  the  purpose  of  opening  commercial  intercourse  with 
Paraguay,  a country  that  had,  under  the  dictator 
Francia,  excluded  foreigners.  Lopez,  its  present  ruler, 
had  been  on  very  intimate  terms  with  our  countryman, 
Mr.  H. ; and,  taking  advantage  of  this  intimacy,  and 
the  president’s  friendly  feeling  towards  the  United 
States,  the  above  company  was  formed;  and  it  soon 
sent  out  from  Providence,  R.  I.,  a clipper  schooner  of 


THE  ASUNCION. 


53 


beautiful  mould,  containing,  in  pieces,  a small  steamer 
and  “ hoop  boat,”  with  their  appropriate  crews,  carpen- 
ters, millwrights,  &o. 

The  schooner  was  damaged  in  the  Tigre ; but  her 
cargo  was  landed,  and  the  Asuncion  put  together, 
and  sent  up  the  Parana  to  Paraguay.  A cigar  manu- 
factory, employing  three  hundred  native  girls,  was  set 
on  foot,  a colony  formed,  and  the  steamer  was  to  run 
between  that  country  and  Buenos  Ayres,  when  an 
event  occurred  that  blasted  the  prospects  of  the  North 
Americans.  A brother  of  Mr.  Hopkins  was  stopped  in 
the  street  for  some  trivial  cause  (probably  galloping 
his  horse)  by  a vigilante , whose  language  was  insult- 
ing, whereupon  difficulty  ensued.  As  representative 
of  his  government,  Mr.  Hopkins  interfered ; and  then 
followed  the  expulsion  of  our  countrymen  from  the 
unexplored  and  little-known  Paraguay.  The  United 
States  steamer  Water  Witch,  then  lying  in  the  Plata, 
ascended  the  river,  and  was  fired  upon  from  a fortifica- 
tion ; several  balls  lodged  in  her  hull,  and  one  man  was 
killed.  The  Water  Witch  destroyed  the  structure, 
and  retired  down  the  river  to  Montevideo,  while  the 
company’s  men  settled  at  the  Tigre  until  matters  could 
be  adjusted.  The  Asuncion  was  then  engaged  for  car- 
rying sheep  across  the  Banda  Oriental,  the  country 
on  the  north  shores  of  the  Plata,  afterwards  known  on 
some  maps  as  Uruguay. 

San  Fernando,  in  conjunction  with  the  Tigre,  is  the 
watering-place  of  the  ton  of  Buenos  Ayres,  many  of 
whom  pass  the  summer  in  the  village.  The  next  day 
after  our  arrival  was  passed  in  pleasant  conversation 
with  our  countryman,  and  during  the  evening  a large 


54 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  sailed  down  the  river  to 
two  islands  covered  with  groves  "of  peach  trees,  where 
they  took  mate  (tea),  and  danced  La  Samba  Curfa,  to 
the  music  of  the  guitar.  I did  not  accompany  them ; 
for,  having  met  a young  man  whose  desire  for  travel 
had  caused  him  to  leave  home,  we  passed  the  night 
wandering  among  the  willows  on  the  banks  of  the 
stream,  and  at  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning 
retired  to  rest  as  the  piano  frog  was  chanting  his  re- 
veille. 

This  was  a spot  where  the  naturalist  would  love  to 
dwell.  Above  our  heads  sang  many  curious  birds,  and 
around  us  were  still  more  curious  insects. 

On  the  neighboring  church  of  Las  Conchas,  the  car- 
pentero  built  its  oven-like  nest,  and  parrots  filled  the 
air  with  their  cries,  while  the  mocking-bird  rattled  out 
his  medley  as  in  our  own  country. 

As  strangers,  we  were  cordially  received  by  the  na- 
tives who  occupied  the  houses  close  at  hand,  and  many 
were  the  mates  (cups  of  Paraguay  tea)  we  took,  be- 
cause the  pretty  senoritas  informed  us  that  their  lan- 
guage and  mate  were  inseparable,  and  not  until  the 
foreigner  became  addicted  to  its  use  could  he  ride  a 
horse,  throw  the  lasso,  learn  the  language,  or  win  a fair 
maid. 

I have  already  alluded  to  the  yerba , sometimes  called 
yerba  mate , from  which  the  Paraguay  tea  is  made. 

It  is  to  South  America  what  the  tea  of  China  is  to 
Europe  and  the  United  States;  nor  are  its  qualities 
very  greatly  different  from  those  of  the  Asiatic  herb. 

The  yerba  trees  grow  in  forests,  called  yerbales , on 
the  rivers  of  Paraguay,  and  attain  a considerable  size. 


MATE. 


55 


At  the  time  of  gathering,  a party  of  peons  are  sent 
into  the  forest,  who  collect  the  branches,  sprigs,  and 
leaves  in  vast  piles,  which  are  afterwards  thoroughly 
scorched.  This  being  accomplished,  the  leaves  and 
twigs  are  packed  in  a raw  hide,  which  contracts  as  it 
dries,  compressing  the  yerba  into  an  almost  solid  mass. 
In  this  condition  it  is  sent  to  market. 

The  mate  is  a small  gourd,  which  forms  the  general 
drinking-cup  in  all  the  regions  which  I visited.  An 
infusion  of  the  yerba  having  been  made,  with  accesso- 
ries, as  in  our  own  country,  it  is  sucked  from  the  mate 
through  a tin  or  silver  tube,  called  the  bombilla , which 
is  provided  at  its  lower  extremity  with  a strainer, 
which  prevents  the  fine  particles  of  the  yerba  from  ris- 
ing to  the  mouth.  The  name  of  the  gourd  or  cup  is 
not  unfrequently  coupled  with  that  of  the  tea  itself  in 
mentioning  the  article. 

At  last  everything  was  ready  for  our  departure ; and 
at  eleven  o’clock  one  starlight  night  we  sailed  slowly 
along  the  little  Tigre,  and,  passing  the  peach  islands  at 
its  mouth,  in  an  hour  after,  were  fairly  on  our  passage 
across  the  Plata,  which  at  this  point  is  nearly  thirty 
miles  wdde.  Upon  arriving  off  the  San  Juan  River, 
early  the  next  morning,  the  tide  was  out,  and  the  bar 
at  the  mouth  of  the  stream  impassable,  which  obliged 
us  to  remain  stationary  until  afternoon,  when  the  ris- 
ing tide  permitted  us  to  wind  up  the  stream,  and 
through  luxuriant  foliage,  the  home  of  the  tiger-cat, 
and  once  the  lair  of  the  fierce  jaguar,  which  is  now, 
however,  rarely  met  with,  having  been  driven  from  his 
ancient  hunting-grounds  by  parties  of  natives  who  had 
been  exasperated  by  his  continual  depredations.  Row 


56 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


the  little  tiger-cat  and  wild  dogs  are  their  tormentors ; 
and  annually  a tiger  hunt  comes  off  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river. 

We  arrived  at  our  destination  in  due  time,  and  the 
cargo  of  sheep  was  safely  landed.  Preparations  for  the 
night  had  hardly  been  completed,  when  from  a certain 
quarter  were  heard  loud  and  prolonged  sounds,  so  wild 
and  fearful  that  our  attention  was  directed  towards  it. 

“ It  is  the  voices  of  wild  animals  scenting  the  sheep- 
fold,”  said  one  of  our  party.  The  shepherd  dogs  on  the 
borders  of  the  stream  pricked  up  their  ears,  and  the 
hair  stood  up  stiffly  upon  their  backs  as  they  walked 
around  the  sleeping  flock,  growling  savagely. 

While  we  listened,  the  sounds  grew  more  and  more 
distinct,  and  shortly  we  were  upon  our  feet  to  repel  an 
attack  from  a pack  of  %wild  dogs.  Perceiving  that  we 
were  too  strong  to  be  molested  with  impunity,  they 
withdrew,  snapping  and  growling,  for  a short  distance, 
where  they  continued  their  music  for  two  or  three 
hours,  and  then  drew  off  to  another  estancia. 

These  animals  hunt  in  packs,  and  though  of  a cow- 
ardly nature,  will,  when  fierce  with  hunger,  attack  man 
The  following  incident,  which  occurred  a few  days 
prior  to  our  arrival,  proves  this  often-contested  fact. 

A capataz  (foreman)  of  an  estancia  (farm),  while  re- 
turning from  a distant  village  to  his  home,  met  a pack 
of  these  dogs.  The  instinct  of  the  brutes  told  them 
that  the  tired  horse  could  not  outstrip  them  in  the  long 
run.  They  gave  chase,  and  soon  brought  the  horse  and 
rider  to  the  ground  The  capataz  had  no  other  weapon 
than  his  knife,  which  proved  ineffectual  for  his  defence, 
and  both  man  and  horse  were  torn  to  pieces  and  de- 
voured. 


WILD  DOGS. 


57 


On  the  day  after  our^ arrival  we  saw  at  the  estancia 
house  three  of  these  dogs,  which  had  been  taken  from 
caves  near  the  River  San  Juan.  The  largest  was  about 
a year  old ; although  he  associated  with  the  house  dogs, 
he  would  not  suffer  any  person  to  approach  him,  and 
exhibited  all  the  traits  of  his  wild  brethren  that  sere- 
naded him  almost  every  night.  The  two  others  were 
only  a few  weeks  old,  and  were  as  playful  as  kittens. 

These  wild  dogs  are  of  a slight  frame,  and  are  gen- 
erally of  a brown  and  yellow  color ; the  mouths  are  of  a 
dusky-brown,  or  black.  Without  doubt  they  descended 
from  the  domestic  dogs  brought  into  the  country  by 
the  Spanish  or  Portuguese  Jesuits  during  the  period 
of  the  early  settlement  of  the  La  Plata  provinces. 

Early  upon  the  following  morning,  the  gauchos 
pointed  out  the  path  that  led  to  the  estancia  house,  and 
my  friend  Red  and  myself  set  out  to  visit  it.  Larks, 
partridges,  and  many  other  birds  started  from  the  grass 
as  we  pursued  our  way  on  foot.  All  these  birds  were 
exceedingly  tame ; and  had  we  been  in  possession  of  a 
gun,  we  should  have  arrived  at  the  house  with  a bag 
of  game. 

The  farm  was  owned  by  a German,  who  gave  us  a 
cordial  welcome,  and  insisted  upon  our  remaining  to 
breakfast. 

The  estate  was  a small  one  for  that  country,  embra- 
cing but  ten  or  twelve  square  miles.  The  owner  pur- 
chased it  of  the  last  tenant,  who  sold  for  a fair  price, 
but,  when  he  received  the  money,  declared  that  the 
German  must  pay  him  extra  for  the  buildings.  The 
new  owner,  having,  as  he  supposed,  paid  for  utop  and 
bottom,”  refused  to  give  an  additional  sum;  but  the 


o 


58  A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 

native  was  inexorable,  and  the  buyer,  knowing  that  a 
foreigner  receives  no  justice  from  South  American  tri- 
bunals, wisely  settled  the  affair,  after  much  loss  of  time 
and  money,  by  paying  the  full  demand.  Almost  every 
bargain  that  is  consummated  between  a foreigner  and 
a native  results  largely  in  favor  of  the  latter  party.  By 
bribery,  falsehood,  or  perjury,  — he  cares  but  • little 
which,  — the  creole  will  outwit  the  “ gringo,”  and  then, 
in  a most  barefaced  manner,  tell  him  that  it  is  by  superior 
wit  and  talent  that  the  end  is  thus  brought  in  favor  of 
a Christian;  for  so  all  true  Catholics  of  both  republics, 
the  Banda  Oriental  and  Argentine,  are  called,  or  call 
themselves,  with  no  little  egotism. 

After  partaking  of  a nourishing  meal,  — farina,  soup, 
and  meat,  — Ned  strapped  his  bundle  to  his  back,  care- 
fully loaded  his  revolver,  and,  after  several  studied  in- 
quiries as  to  certain  locations  along  the  coast  of  the 
Plata,  bade  me  to  prepare  to  follow  him.  Our  new 
friends  offered  us  horses,  saddles,  &c. ; but  Ned  had  a 
particular  reason  for  travelling  on  foot,  and  so,  bidding 
our  German  friend  adieu,  we  posted  off  in  a westerly 
direction.  Our  landmark  was  the  mud  hut  of  an 
estancia , about  seven  miles  distant,  situated  on  a swell 
of  the  prairie.  About  the  estancia  we  were  leaving 
were  several  high  hills,  which  sloped  off  into  the  roll- 
ing plain.  A portion  of  these  hills  were  barren,  and 
broken  rocks  cropped  out  at  their  bases ; but  the  plains 
or  rolling  ground  about  them,  upon  which  the  cattle 
fed,  was  covered  with  fine  grass,  occasionally  inter- 
mixed with  flowers.  Just  beyond  the  house,  at  the 
base  of  one  of  the  hills,  we  descried  a shepherd  sitting 
upon  the  rocks,  apparently  watching  his  flock,  that  fed 


ned’s  story. 


59 


upon  the  plain ; but  a closer  scrutiny  proved  that  he 
was  fast  in  the  delights  of  a siesta.  Puffs  of  wind  that 
came  around  the  hills  flaunted  his  chiropa  and  poncho 
in  a wild  manner,  which,  together  with  his  long  beard, 
gave  him  the  appearance  of  an  old  gypsy. 

“Now  we  are  clear  of  all  eaves-droppers,”  said  my 
friend,  “and  as  we  go  along,  I will  tell  you  what 
strange  circumstances  brought  me  here,  and  why  I 
left  a good  home  and  profitable  business  to  wander 
mysteriously  on  this  side  of  the  Plata.  I am  some- 
times visionary.  My  friends  say  so,  and  I believe  it  to 
be  so ; but  the  cause  that  tempted  me  to  leave  a wife 
and  child  was  not  so  visionary  as  some  of  my  friends 
have  declared,  and  I mean  to  prove  to  them  their 
error  by  returning  to  New  York,  in  one  year’s  time,  a 
rich  man.  I can  prove  by  history  that  a small  vessel, 
sailed  by  Spanish  .pirates,  went  ashore  upon  this  coast, 
not  twenty,  or  at  the  most  fifty,  miles  from  the  spot 
that  we  are  now  upon.  She  had  a large  amount  of 
money  on  board,  which  was  taken  ashore,  and  buried 
not  far  from  the  wreck : two  or  three  trees  mark  the 
spot ; they  are  old  now,  but  are  probably  still  standing. 
If  they  are  not  standing,  I have  still  another  landmark 
to  tell  me  where  the  treasure  lies. 

“ The  first  fact  which  I stated  is  supported  by  his- 
tory; that  portion  regarding  the  treasure  is  known 
only  to  me.  The  man  who  imparted  the  secret  was 
an  invalid  for  many  years  past,  and,  therefore,  unable 
to  come  for  the  treasure  himself.  He  confided  it  to 
me  upon  his  death-bed,  in  New  York  city,  about  a 
year  since.  We  had  been  intimate  for  years,  and 
could  rely  on  each  other.  Why  he  kept  the  secret 


60 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


from  rae  for  such  a length  of  time,  I cannot  surmise, 
unless  it  was  because  he  hoped  to  recover,  and  come 
for  it  himself.  He  died  poor,  and  his  words  to  me 
were  of  this  import : ‘ Go  to  the  Plata,  and  after  com- 
ing into  possession  of  this  hidden  wealth,  return  with 
it  to  New  York,  give  to  my  widow  three  quarters,  and 
keep  the  other  fourth  for  yourself.’ 

“I  have  now  only  to  seek  out  certain  localities; 
when  these  are  found  I shall  know  just  where  to  sink 
my  rod,  and  I am  certain  of  success.  The  reason  that 
I have  imparted  a portion  of  this  secret  to  you  is,  that 
I must  have  some  person  to  assist  me  in  taking  the 
treasure  to  some  vessel  in  the  outer  roads  of  Buenos 
Ayres.  As  soon  as  we  have  ascertained  that  all  is 
right,  I shall  despatch  you  to  the  Tigre  to  purchase  a 
boat,  and  as  you  have  been  long  enough  on  board  ship 
to  ‘know  the  ropes,’  you  will  not  deem  it  too  great  a 
risk  to  watch  for  a fair  wind,  and  navigate  the  craft 
across  the  river.  We  will  then  load  up,  and  steer 
some  fine  night,  with  the  tide  in  our  favor,  for  the 
Mary  H.,  that  lies  off  the  city.  The  captain  will  not 
be  there ; but  the  mate  is  a confidential  friend,  and  we 
will  get  our  things  on  board  without  any  trouble  from 
the  Custom  House  officers. 

“ When  I tell  you  that  I have  sold  out  a profitable 
business,  and  expect  to  spend  at  least  fifteen  hundred 
dollars  in  this  enterprise,  you  will  credit  me  with  san- 
guine hopes,  and  conclude  that  I must  have  strong  and 
good  reasons  for  risking  myself  and  the  support  of  my 
family  in  such  a romantic  undertaking.” 

I had  before  this  heard  of  the  Rio  Plata  gold  hunt- 
ers ; but  what  could  I do  ? Advise  my  friend  to  go 


BURIED  TREASURE. 


61 


home  to  his  wife,  of  whom  he  often  spoke  in  terms 
of  strong  affection,  or  assist  him  in  his  labors,  and  fol- 
low after  the  ignis  fatuus  that  had  lured  him  from 
friends  and  domestic  pleasures  ? I answered  him  after 
this  wise.  “Ned,”  said  I,  “I  shall  offer  no  opinion  re- 
garding this  gold  hunt,  nor  discourage  you  from  an 
undertaking  for  the  success  of  which  you  confess  you 
have  embarrassed  yourself  and  purse  ; but  I also  have 
a mission  to  perform.  I came  to  this  country  with  the 
intention  of  crossing  the  pampas  to  Mendoza,  from 
which  town  I mean  to  cross  the  Andes  to  Valparaiso, 
Chili.  From  the  latest  and  best  authority  I have 
learned  that  the  mountains  will  be  impassable  after 
the  first  week  in  May,  and  as  it  is  now  late  in  the 
season  to  insure  a safe  journey  to  Valparaiso,  it  will 
be  necessary  for  me  to  leave  Buenos  Ayres  in  the  next 
steamer,  which  will  be  ready  to  sail  in  a few  days. 
Until  the  sailing  day  I will  devote  my  time  to  your 
plans,  but  no  longer.” 

Though  Ned  spoke  with  enthusiasm,  and  promised 
the  reward  of  one  thousand  dollars  in  case  of  success, 
I remained  obstinate,  and  debate  was  dropped. 

As  we  trudged  on  our  journey,  various  birds  and 
animals  were  at  times  seen  by  us.  Once  two  small 
deer  approached  us,  and  acted  as  if  influenced  by  great 
curiosity,  and  again,  a tall  ostrich  started  out  of  the 
grass,  and,  raising  her  plumed  wings,  ran  off  at  the  top 
of  her  speed. 

Having  reached  the  estancia  house,  — our  landmark 
already  referred  to,  — we  halted  to  ask  for  water.  The 
little  that  the  family  had  was  in  an  old  barrel ; by  the 
side  of  it  was  a cow’s  dirty  horn,  out  of  which  we 


62 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


drank.  We  continued  our  journey  to  the  next  stop- 
ping-place, five  miles  beyond.  This  was  a small  hut 
surrounded  by  corrals,  the  whole  serving  as  an  outpost 
to  a large  estancia.  The  occupants  were  a lazy  gaucho 
and  his  negress  wife,  who  invited  us  in,  and  offered 
mate ; blit  as  our  object  was  to  find  some  suitable 
shelter  for  the  night,  we  did  not  remain  long,  but 
pushed  on  towards  the  River  Las  Yacas.  Darkness 
coming  on,  we  hurried  to  several  mud  huts  that  loomed 
up  in  the  distance.  Upon  arriving  at  them,  we  found  a 
young  gaucho,  who  led  us  into  a room  where  a pow- 
erful-built, supercilious-looking  personage  was  sitting. 
Glancing  at  us  carelessly,  he  asked  us  several  ques- 
tions ; but  being  ignorant  of  the  language,  we  could 
only  make  use  of  the  “Spanish  Teacher”  that  my 
friend  had  brought  with  him:  we  could  not  discover 
whether  he  understood  our  requests  or  desires.  He 
treated  us  in  a very  distant  manner,  calling  a gaucho, 
and  ordering  us  off  to  a low,  mud  hut,  where  a woman 
was  cooking  a strip  of  meat  by  a small  fire. 

The  interior  of  the  hut  was  filthy  in  the  extreme, 
the  broken  walls  covered  with  vermin,  and  the  whole 
dwelling  filled  with  blinding  smoke.  Shortly  after  our 
entrance,  several  gauchos  came  in,  and  conversed  to- 
gether in  low  tones. 

After  a few  minutes  they  approached  us,  who  were 
seated  upon  a log,  and  addressed  numerous  inquiries  to 
my  companion.  Ned,  with  the  utmost  simplicity, 
opened  his  “ Teacher,”  and  pointed  out  several  sen- 
tences. The  fellows  at  first  looked  at  the  book,  and 
turned  over  several  leaves  with  a puzzled  air,  then, 
breaking  out  in  a loud  laugh,  threw  it  back  into  his 


GAUCHO  INCIVILITY. 


63 


lap.  Soon  one  dark-visaged  gaucho  drew  his  knife, 
and  commenced  slashing  it  above  the  head  of  my 
companion,  seeming  undecided,  however,  to  strike 

him. 

At  this  manifestation  of  mischief,  our  hands  grasped 
our  Colt’s  revolvers ; and  if  the  knife  had  touched  either 
of  our  bodies,  we  should  have  drawn  our  weapons  and 
shot  down  our  assailants.  “ If  they  strike  us,  shoot  all 
except  the  old  hag,  who  can  do  nothing  more  than 
give  the  alarm,  and  take  to  your  heels,”  muttered  my 
companion. 

We  sat  thus  for  half  an  hour,  during  which  time  the 
gauchos  made  several  attempts  to  strike  at  our  legs, 
but  did  not  succeed.  They  were  at  length  called  away 
by  the  old  woman,  who  offered  them  their  supper.  We 
at  last  asked  them  by  signs  for  a bed;  they  pointed  to 
a pile  of  dried  skins  that  lay  heaped  up  in  one  corner 
of  the  hut.  At  this  the  indignation  of  my  friend  could 
hardly  be  kept  within  bounds.  Having  been  accus- 
tomed to  all  the  comforts  that  the  great  metropolis  of 
our  country  could  furnish,  he  determined  no  longer  to 
suffer  the  inhospitable  treatment  of  gauchos.  Telling 
me  to  follow  him,  he  moved  towards  the  door  of  the 
shanty,  which  was  nothing  more  than  a large  hide, 
swinging  to  and  fro  in  the  entrance. 

But  the  gauchos  would  not  allow  us  to  leave ; and 
after  a vain  attempt  at  arguing  the  matter,  we  were  at 
last  obliged  to  stretch  ourselves  upon  the  hides,  and 
lying  side  by  side,  kept  watch  in  turn,  with  pistols 
in  hand,  through  the  long  and  uncomfortable  night. 
When  I say  uncomfortable,  I mean  the  whole  strength 
of  the  word,  for  the  hides  were  alive  with  vermin,  and 


64 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


their  passage  over  our  bodies  and  its  attendant  irrita- 
tion, half  crazed  us  both.  But  the  longest  night  has 
an  end.  An  hour  before  daylight  the  gauchos  arose 
from  the  ground,  which  had  been  their  bed,  and  lasso- 
ing their  horses  in  the  corral,  galloped  off  to  different 
parts  of  the  estancia. 

As  soon  as  we  saw  that  the  disagreeable  fellows  were 
certainly  gone,  we  arose  and  hurried  away  from  the 
hut.  The  woman  followed,  and  begged  us  to  come 
back  and  eat  meat ; but  we  were  only  too  willing  to 
leave  without  a breakfast.  We  learned,  some  days 
later,  from  an  Englishman,  that  the  owner  of  this 
estancia , whose  name  was  Moreno,  belonged  to  a 
family  of  the  most  villanous  character. 

During  the  revolutions,  and  while  the  country  was  in 
the  midst  of  civil  war,  an  elder  brother  of  this  Moreno 
became  a general,  and  perpetrated  the  most  horrid 
deeds  of  cruelty.  With  a band  of  soldiers  he  traversed 
that  portion  of  the  country,  cutting  out  the  tongues  of 
hundreds  of  cattle,  and  leaving  the  animals  to  become 
the  prey  of  the  wild  beasts  and  birds.  He  visited  a 
great  number  of  estancias , and  slaughtering  the  own- 
ers, male  and  female,  placed  in  their  stead  his  own 
submissive  tools. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  justice  cried  out  against  him, 
and  the  villain  fled  the  country,  leaving  a part  of  his 
ill-gotten  possessions  in  the  hands  of  his  brother. 

Four  or  five  miles  beyond  Moreno’s,  we  passed  a 
white-washed  casa  (house)  belonging  to  another  man 
equally  bad  with  our  late  host. 

We  now  entered  a thinly-wooded  country,  with 
thorn  trees  and  cacti,  in  which  large  flocks  of  palomas 


AN  IRISH  SETTLER. 


65 


— a species  of  turtle  dove  resembling  our  own  species 

— were  abundant.  Just  before  reaching  the  River 
Las  Yacas  we  came  upon  a hut  of  cornstalks,  out  of 
which,  to  our  surprise,  walked  an  unmistakable  son  of 
Erin.  He  commenced  at  once  with,  “ Sure,  and  is  it 
yerselves  that’s  afoot  ? Where  be  your  hosses  ? W alk 
into  the  house  and  be  seated.” 

Hurrying  into  the  house,  he  commenced  an  onslaught 
upon  a lot  of  fowls  and  two  or  three  dogs,  driving  them 
out : we  entered  with  him.  He  was  a perfect  specimen 
of  the  “Irish-born  citizen.”  He  had  originally  come 
to  the  country  as  cook  to  an  English  bark.  He  had 
much  to  say  about  the  travels  and  dangers  that  he 
had  gone  through.  Speaking  of  the  conduct  of  Great 
Britain  in  meddling  with  the  affairs  of  the  Banda  Ori- 
ental, he  expressed  his  dissatisfaction  in  the  most  for- 
cible language. 

“The  English  and  Frinch  intervinshun,”  said  he, 
“ kilt  me,  as  it  did  all  the  furriners.  Before  it  I owned 
two  thousand  head  of  cattle  and  hosses,  and  had 
plinty  of  land,  and  was  comfortable.  I had  a wife, 
though  I didn’t  have  time  to  get  married  to  the  cra- 
thur;  and  lucky  was  I that  I hadn’t,  for  she  run 
off  wid  me  money  and  half  of  me  property.  I hears 
that  the  Turks  are  fighting  the  queen,  and  are  like  to 
succeed.  God  bless  them  if  they  do.  I hope  she  may 
be  taken.” 

We  left  him  as  soon  as  possible,  and  pushed  on  to 
the  River  Las  Yacas,  which  we  soon  reached,  and 
crossed  in  a boat.  W e remained  two  days  in  the  lit- 
tle town  on  its  banks,  during  which  time  Ned  made 
many  inquiries  for  certain  localities,  but  without  suc- 
5 


66 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


cess.  Finding  that  nothing  could  be  learned  here,  we 
hired  horses,  and  set  out  on  our  return  to  the  San 
Juan  River,  following  along  the  coast  of  the  Plata. 
Every  few  minutes  would  Ned  halt  and  repeat  the 
three  Spanish  words  that  he  had  studied  for  many 
weeks,  and  could  now  pronounce  correctly.  Turning 
to  our  guide,  an  old  lame  gaucho,  he  would  say,  half 
inquiringly,  “ Los  Tres  Hermanos  ? ” but  at  each  time 
the  old  man  shook  his  head. 

At  last  we  came  upon  a high  bluff,  and  the  gaucho, 
halting,  pointed  with  his  finger  to  two  small  islands, 
green  with  heavy  foliage  that  fringed  their  shores,  and 
exclaimed,  “Los  Los  Hermanos  ! ” But  those  were  not 
the  islands  that  Ned  was  seeking.  “Los  Los  Herma- 
nos” or  “ The  Two  Brothers,”  were  islands  of  greater 
size  than  those  which  my  friend  sought. 

“Los  Tres  Hermanos ,”  or  “The  Three  Brothers,” 
had  been  described  to  him  by  the  dying  man  as  “ three 
small  pointed  rocks ; ” but  Ned  could  not  find  these. 
He  had  consulted  every  chart  that  he  could  procure, 
but  not  one  had  the  three  rocks  upon  it.  Could  it  be 
that  “ The  Two  Brothers  ” had  been  confounded  with 
some  other  islets  ? 

But  I will  not  dwell  upon  our  unsuccessful  search. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  we  both  returned  to  the  Tigre  in 
the  same  steamer  that  had  brought  us  across  the  Plata. 
I left  Ned  busily  at  work  upon  a small  boat,  in  which, 
when  finished,  he  intended  to  cross  the  river,  and,  dis- 
guised as  a roving  naturalist,  to  skirt  along  the  river 
coast  in  search  of  “ Los  Tres  Hermanos .”  When  I part- 
ed from  him,  he  said,  gayly,  “ Good  by,  my  friend.  You 
have  yet  to  travel  a long  road  before  you  reach  North 
America.  I shall  be  there  some  months  before  you.” 


ned’s  unfortunate  speculation. 


67 


After  returning  to  the  United  States,  I wrote  to 
New  York,  as  he  had  requested ; but  some  time  elapsed 
before  an  answer  came,  and  then  my  worst  fears  were 
realized.  Disappointed  in  his  search  for  gold,  he  had 
accepted  the  first  offer  for  employment  that  presented 
itself,  and  had  become  the  mate  of  the  little  steamer 
that  carried  us  across  the  river  when  he  filst  embarked 
in  his  romantic  speculation. 

During  the  passage  of  the  steamer  to  the  upper 
Parana,  he  fell  overboard  one  night,  and  was  carried 
into  the  rapids  of  the  river  and  drowned. 


68 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ASCENDING  THE  PLATA  AND  PARANA. 

ROM  the  River  Tigre  I proceeded  on  foot  to 


Buenos  Ayres.  When  within  a league  or  two 
of  the  city,  I passed  a fine  quinta  inhabited  by  a 
Scotchman,  who  had  resided  several  years  in  the 
republic.  Two  Irishmen,  mounted  high  upon  a cart, 
were  driving  through  the  gate,  and  one  of  them,  after 
scrutinizing  my  appearance,  shouted  to  me,  “ Sure 
you’re  an  Irishman  — are  ye  not?” 

I answered  that  I was  a North  American,  and  be- 
longed in  Boston ; when  the  other  man  inquired  if  I 
happened  to  be  acquainted  with  a family  by  the  name 
of  Kelley,  adding  that  the  head  of  said  family  was  a 
half  brother  to  his  wife. 

I tried  to  show  my  questioner  that  Boston  was  a 
large  place,  with  inhabitants  so  numerous  that  I had 
not  yet  had  the  pleasure  of  the  acquaintance  of  his 
relatives ; and,  after  giving  the  latest  news  of  the 
great  metropolis,  and  what  was  transpiring  when  I 
left  it,  I parted  from  the  cartmen  and  pursued  my 
journey,  philosophizing  on  the  wonderful  race  of  the 
Irish,  and  the  fact  that,  no  matter  what  corner  of  the 
globe  we  may  be  in,  we  are  certain  to  find  this  people 
represented,  sometimes  by  a great  many  individuals. 


THE  “DOCTOR’S”  EXPERIENCE. 


69 


When  I reached  the  city  of  Buenos  Ayres,  I learned 
that  the  boat  was  to  leave  on  the  next  morning ; and, 
to  prevent  detention,  the  consul  gave  me  a note  ad- 
dressed to  the  captain  of  the  port,  who  at  once  fur- 
nished me  with  a passport.  Persons  about  leaving  the 
province  are  required  to  advertise  their  intended  de- 
parture during  three  successive  days  in  one  of  the 
three  or  four  daily  papers  that  are  published  in  its 
principal  city.  This  regulation  is  designed  to  prevent 
the  departure  of  debtors  for  other  “parts  unknown,” 
without  settling  their  accounts ; but  the  law  is  no  less 
ineffectual  than  inconvenient,  as  it  has  been  found 
utterly  impotent  to  accomplish  the  object  for  which 
it  was  designed.  Before  sailing,  I visited  the  bark, 
to  bid  adieu  to  the  rough  but  honest  hearts  that  had 
been  my  associates  during  our  long  passage  from  Bos- 
ton. I was  received  with  joyful  demonstrations.  I 
divided  the  contents  of  my  trunk  among  the  sailors, 
and,  after  a pleasant  chat  with  the  mate,  was  about  to 
leave  the  vessel,  when  the  “ distinguished  Irish  barris- 
ter’s son,”  our  cook,  hinted  that  he  had  a word  for  my 
private  ear.  I followed  him  to  the  galley ; closing  the 
doors,  to  keep  out  intruders,  he  offered  me  a seat,  and 
began  the  following  conversation:  “My  dear  friend, 
do  you  ever  partake  of  that  which  makes  men’s  sinews 
as  strong  as  iron  bands?  If  so,  here  is  the  bottle  just 
smuggled  aboard  by  the  4 patron  ’ who  brought  you 
from  the  city.  No!  you  won’t  dhrink?  I’m  less  bash- 
ful. Here’s  to  a short  parting,  and  may  you  not  yield 
your  heart,  as  I once  did  mine,  to  any  senorita  on  your 
journey.”  Here  he  took  a good  pull  at  the  bottle,  and 
continued : “ What  shall  I do  without  you  ? I’m  puz- 


70 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


zled  to  know,  with  no  kindred  intellect  on  board  to 
cheer  me  on  the  homeward  passage.  However,  I have 
long  intended  to  prepare  a work  on  the  ‘ Irish  Karak- 
ter  in  America,’  that  will  occupy  my  mind,  and  make 
the  time  pass  less  tediously.  It  will  make  at  laste  five 
volumes,  and  I’m  keeping  a ‘dialogue’  (diary)  for  notes 
every  day.”  After  he  had  enlarged  on,  and  explained 
the  character  of,  his  embryo  book,  I turned  the  subject 
by  remarking  that  it  seemed  strange  that  a man  of  his 
poetic  nature  had  never  been  entangled  in  the  bonds 
of  love.  “ Ah,  now ! ye’ve  said  it,”  exclaimed  the 
“doctor.”  “I  have  passed  through  that  experience; 
but  the  cratur,  woman,  has  been  no  blessing,  as  the 
poets  say,  but  a perfect  bane,  to  my  poor  heart.  It 
was  woman  who  drove  me  from  my  position  in  society 
to  this  galley.”  Here  the  cook  was  obliged  to  draw  a 
pull  of  comfort  from  the  bottle.  “ When  I was  only 
sixteen  years  of  age,”  he  continued,  with  a sigh, — 
whether  of  love  or  in  consequence  of  the  strength  of 
the  liquor  I was  uncertain, — “my  father  had  a frind, 
who  was  also  an  Irish  barrister;  this  gintleman  had  a 
daughter  like  an  angel.  I was  young  and  beardless, 
she  a few  years  older  than  meself.  I became  so  deeply 
enamoured  that  I offered  her  me  hand  and  me  hat 
(heart)  ; at  which  she  softly  replied,  ‘ Mr.  W.,  you  are 
too  young.’  I,  however,  pressed  me  suit,  for  women 
want  a deal  of  coaxing ; but  she  only  smiled.  At  last, 
when  I grew  quite  urgent,  — for  an  Irishman  coorts  in 
earnest,  — she  referred  me  for  an  answer  to  the  second 
of  Samuel,  tinth  chapter,  and  the  last  part  of  the  fifth 
verse.  I turned  at  once  to  it,  for  I thought  that  by  it 
she  meant  to  accept  me  suit,  and  in  a bashful  way  told 


A FAREWELL. THE  URUGUAY. 


71 


me  as  she  did ; when  what  was  my  horror  and  shame 
to  read  the  following  words : ‘Tarry  at  Jericho  until 
your  beard  be  grown,  and  then  return.’ 

“Would  you  believe  it,  my  friend?  — this  little  inci- 
dent became  known  to  my  acquaintances,  and  for  shame 
I was  forced  to  leave  the  country;  and  for  eleven  years 
I never  saw  ould  Ireland  again.”  I thought  that,  con- 
sidering his  beardless  condition,  the  Irish  girl’s  answer 
was  quite  Pat  to  the  occasion.  The  rum  was  now 
deeply  affecting  my  friend’s  intellect;  and  just  as  he 
was  about  to  recite  a “ stanza,”  I rose  to  leave,  saying 
that  I could  protract  my  stay  no  longer.  Embracing 
me  affectionately,  and  repeating  the  lines  about  “ tarry- 
ing in  Jericho  until  your  beard  be  grown,”  he  bade  me 
adieu ; and  the  last  I heard  of  him  was  his  singing  at 
the  top  of  his  voice,  “ O,  whiskey ! whiskey  is  the  life 
of  man  ! O,  whiskey  for  me,  Johnny  ! ” Bidding  fare- 
well to  the  rest  of  the  crew,  and  refusing  some  pieces 
of  silver  which  old  Manuel  insisted  upon  forcing  into 
my  pockets  as  fast  as  I could  take  them  out,  I went 
over  the  rail,  and  with  the  “ patron  ” pushed  off  from 
the  vessel  towards  the  city. 

About  noon  on  the  following  day,  the  Uruguay,  in 
which  I had  taken  passage,  weighed  anchor,  and  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  river  against  a strong  cur- 
rent which  made  the  old  boat  tremble  from  stem  to 
stern.  The  passengers  on  board  were  a motley  crowd 
— merchants,  soldiers,  gauchos,  and  emigrants  of  every- 
size  and  color.  One  hundred  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren from  the  Basque  provinces  were  on  their  way  to 
Paraguay.  Two  hundred  more  were  soon  to  follow  in 
another  party,  they  having  already  arrived  at  Buenos 


72 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


Ayres.  This  immigration  was  the  commencement  of  a 
plan  of  President  Lopez,  who  was  encouraging  French 
immigrants  to  come,  rightly  believing  that  they  would 
benefit  his  little  republic.  Among  the  Basques  whom 
I saw  was  the  wife  of  Montez,  the  president’s  inter- 
preter, on  her  return  from  a European  tour.  This  lady, 
who  acted  as  matron  for  her  countrywomen,  spoke 
seven  languages  fluently.  She  was  enthusiastic  regard- 
ing the  prospects  of  the  new  colony. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  the  islands  of  Mar- 
tin Garcias  and  Los  Los  Hermanos , and  entered  the 
beautiful  Parana,  whose  current  is  more  gentle  than 
that  of  the  Plata.  The  country  by  the  river  is  flat, 
until  we  near  Rosario,  where  the  banks  come  down  to 
the  water’s  edge  in  the  form  of  sand  hills.  The  under- 
growth was  thick  in  a few  spots,  which  served,  a few 
years  since,  as  hiding-places  to  the  dreaded  jaguar,  an 
animal  which  is,  however,  now  seldom  met  with  south 
of  Santa  Fp. 

At  noon  on  the  30th  of  March  we  dropped  anchor 
before  the  town  of  El  Rosario  (the  Rosary),  having 
been  forty-eight  hours  in  the  trip.  I was  paddled 
ashore  from  the  steamboat  by  a native  in  a log  canoe, 
and  succeeded  in  landing  with  dry  feet.  Luckily  meet- 
ing an  Englishman,  I was  directed  by  him  to  the  house 
of  Mr.  G.,  to  whom  I had  letters  of  introduction  ; 
and  from  him  and  his  amiable  wife,  a native  of  the 
•country,  I received  every  attention  that  even  a long 
acquaintance  would  have  warranted. 

Rosario,  situated  in  latitude  23°  56'  south,  longitude 
60°  32'  west,  is  about  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  town  contains  seven  or  eight 


ROSARIO. 


73 


thousand  inhabitants,  the  greatest  portion  of  whom 
have  sprung  from  the  Sj3anish  and  Indian  stock ; while 
the  amalgamation  of  races  has  introduced  a great  vari- 
ety of  shades  of  complexion,  as  well  as  of  character, 
among  the  population.  The  streets,  like  those  of  Bue- 
nos Ayres,  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles.  The 
sidewalks  are  paved  with  a coarse-grained  brick,  about 
fourteen  inches  long  by  six  broad,  and  a little  more 
than  an  inch  in  thickness. 

Rosario  has  one  church  and  two  schools,  of  which 
one  is  a private  seminary,  and  the  other  supported  by 
a public  fund.  There  is  also  in  process  of  erection  a 
small  hospital,  to  contain  two  wards,  one  for  male  and 
one  for  female  patients.  It  was  nearly  finished  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  and  would  soon  be  ready  to  receive 
the  poor  invalids  of  the  vicinity.  This  hospital  was 
erected,  without  assistance  from  the  authorities,  by 
means  of  a subscription  raised  among  the  wealthy 
citizens.  The  people  of  Rosario,  unlike*  the  inhabit- 
ants of  most  Spanish-American  towns,  appear  to  take 
great  pride  in  the  advancement  of  the  place,  which  is 
beginning  to  rival  Santa  Fe,  a large  town  to  the  north- 
ward, which  formerly  monopolized  the  interior  trade ; 
but  of  late  years,  in  consequence  of  the  energy  of  its 
merchants  and  its  proximity  to  Buenos  Ayres,  Rosario 
has  diverted  a large  portion  of  the  business  from  Santa 
Fe  to  herself,  and  continues  to  encourage  it  by  propos- 
ing to  build  a bridge  seventy  yards  in  length  across  a 
river  that  lies  between  Cordova  and  Parana.  If  this 
enterprise  is  not  abandoned,  it  will  attract  to  Rosario 
many  caravans  which  are  accustomed  to  trade  higher 
up  the  river.  The  Sabbath  prior  to  my  departure  had 


74 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


been  appointed  for  a meeting  of  the  citizens  to  act 
regarding  this  matter. 

A new  line  of  diligences  had  been  running  for  three 
months  between  Rosario  and  Mendoza;  they  left  month- 
ly, while  another  line  ran  more  frequently  to  Cordova, 
a town  in  the  interior. 

Rosario  supports  a printing-office  and  a semi- weekly 
newspaper,  that  promises  soon  to  be  issued  daily. 
Sloops,  schooners,  and  small  brigs  are  constantly  arriv- 
ing and  departing;  and  with  all  these  facilities  for 
business  and  travel,  Rosario,  in  its  present  growing 
condition,  will  shortly  prove  the  most  important  town 
of  the  Parana. 

The  police  force  is  organized  in  the  usual  South 
American  manner,  and  consists  of  a few  mounted  vigi- 
lantes armed  with  swords,  and  dressed  in  peaked  cloth 
caps,  long  red  ponchos,  and  pantaloons,  underneath 
which  the  frills  of  the  calgoncillas  (gaucho  drawers) 
may  be  seerf. 

Like  physicians,  they  are  allowed  to  gallop  their 
horses  in  the  streets,  while  all  others  are  prohibited, 
under  penalty  of  a fine  of  one  dollar,  from  doing  so. 
Vigilantes , when  sent  to  arrest  a person,  are  usually 
accompanied  by  a higher  officer,  as  they  are  an  igno- 
rant body  of  men,  and  frequently  not  of  the  strictest 
integrity. 

Although  Rosario  is  the  seaport,  or  commercial 
town,  Parana  is  the  present  capital  of  the  Argentine 
Confederation.  A national  bank  had,  not  long  before 
my  arrival,  been  established  by  the  confederacy,  of 
which  the  headquarters  were  fixed  at  Parana,  with 
branches  in  the  provinces ; but  before  it  had  been  six 


PARANA. 


75 


months  in  operation,  the  whole  affair  exploded,  as  the 
confederate  states,  unlike  Buenos  Ayres,  have  little  or 
no  revenue.  The  government  had  also  appropriated 
sums  towards  building  a railroad  from  Cordova  to 
Mendoza  or  Capiapo.  Mr.  Allen  Campbell,  a well- 
known  North  American  engineer,  was  engaged  to 
superintend  the  construction  of  the  road;  but,  in 
view  of  the  poverty  of  the  country,  the  dangers  aris- 
ing from  civil  wars,  the  paucity  of  emigration  to  the 
interior,  and  the  universal  indolence  of  the  natives,  it 
is  hardly  possible  to  predict  for  this  undertaking  any 
remarkable  success  for  many  years  to  come. 


76 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

A VISIT  TO  THE  PAMPA  COUNTRY. 

WHILE  awaiting  the  expected  departure  of  the 
carts  for  Mendoza,  I remained  with  my  kind 
host  and  his  amiable  wife,  the  G.’s.  During  the  in- 
terim, I occupied  myself  in  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  habits  of  the  people.  One  morning,  after  I had 
been  in  Rosario  for  several  days,  a North  American  — as 
we  from  the  United  States  are  called  — drove  into  my 
host’s  patio , and  announced  that  he  had  “ come  to  see 
the  young  chap  from  the  north.”  I introduced  my- 
self as  the  person  in  question,  when  he  cordially  grasped 
both  my  hands,  and  said  that  he  was  glad  to  meet  an 
old  friend  again ; he  regarded  all  from  his  own  country 
as  such.  He  informed  me  that  he  lived  out  on  Don 
B.’s  estancia , and,  having  heard  that  a countryman 
was  in  town,  he  improved  the  first  opportunity  of  vis- 
iting him.  Of  course  he  had  many  inquiries  to  make 
concerning  news  from  home,  which  I answered  as  well 
as  I could,  and  soon  we  were  friends. 

This  man’s  career  had  been  somewhat  remarkable. 
A sailor  first,  then  variously  employed,  and  now  a 
“ breaker  in  ” of  wild  colts  and  mules,  he  possessed  the 
faculty  of  adapting  himself  to  all  circumstances  peculiar 
to  the  true  North  American.  His  experiences  had 


DON  DANIEL. 


77 


been  varied,  and  he  well  illustrated  in  his  career  the  truth 
of  the  old  adage,  “ A rolling  stone  gathers  no  moss.” 
He  was  thoroughly  conversant  with  all  the  peculiarities 
of  pampa  life ; had  observed  well  the  habits  of  the  birds 
and  animals  that  live  on  the  plains ; was  an  adept  in 
throwing  the  lasso,  and  mastering  wild  colts  and  horses. 

“You  are  here  after  information,  I guess?”  interro- 
gated my  new  friend.  “ If  so,  come  with  me  for  a few 
days,  and  I will  show  you  how  to  be  a gaucho.  My 
shoulders  are  lame  with  being  tossed  in  the  saddle 
while  breaking  colts ; but  the  job  is  through  with  for  a 
while,  and  I’d  just  like  to  show  you  about.” 

“ But  you  have  only  one  horse,”  I replied.  “ Where 
can  I find  another  ? ” 

“Never  mind,”  responded  Don  Daniel,  as  my  friend 
styled  himself.  “ Jest  you  mount  him ; I can  get  an- 
other : I’ve  lots  of  friends  around  the  river,  and  any 
one  will  find  me  a hoss : if  it  comes  to  the  wust  (worst), 
I can  find  one  myself.” 

An  extra  blanket  was  furnished  me  from  the  house, 
and  I placed  myself  at  the  disposal  of  Don  Daniel. 

The  little  iron-gray  stallion  that  was  to  carry  me 
into  a strange  land  pawed  and  curvetted,  and  seemed 
anxious  to  be  off.  The  alforjas , or  saddle-bags,  had 
been  well  filled  by  my  lovely  hostess.  Don  Daniel’s 
chifles , or  water-vessels,  consisted  of  two  cow’s  horns, 
one  of  which  he  filled  with  water  for  his  new  amigo , 
Don  Yankee ; the  other  he  filled  at  a store  with  aguar- 
diente for  himself. 

“Don  Yankee,”  said  he,  as  he  busied  himself  about 
this  important  matter,  “ you  have  come  from  Boston, 
the  home  of  temperance  doctrines : stick  to  your  colors, 


78 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


and  don’t  mistake  this  horn”  — pointing  to  the  one 
filled  with  liquor  — “ for  the  one  filled  with  water,  as 
there  will  not  be  more  than  enough  for  myself.  I take 
it  for  my  lame  shoulders  by  an  internal  application.” 

“ Ejo  mio , adios  ” (God  be  with  you,  my  son)  ! ex- 
claimed the  kind-hearted  senora.  “Don’t  fall  into  a 
biscacha  hole,”  warned  her  husband ; and  we  were  off. 

Don  Daniel  bestrode  a good-looking  horse,  that  he  had 
contrived  to  find  somewhere.  “ Hurry ! ” said  he,  clap- 
ping spurs  to  his  animal,  as  we  turned  a corner.  “ If  that 
lazy porteho  sees  us,  there  will  be  no  hoss  for  Don  Daniel.” 
Although  we  were  moving  at  quite  a rapid  pace,  I 
remonstrated  with  my  companion  against  his  using 
other  people’s  horses  without  their  consent. 

He  only  laughed,  and  said,  “ Poh ! you  are  green,  my 
boy.  It  is  the  custom  here.  When  the  porteho  needs 
his  hoss,  he’ll  take  a friend’s  animal,  as  I have  done. 
We  are  all  friends  in  this  country;  and  I’ll  send  his 
hoss  back  before  a week  is  out.  Now,  caro  mio , push 
yourself  just  a leetle  for’ard,  — so,  — that’s  it ; don’t  ride 
like  a pole,  — so,  — so : here  comes  a breeze ; isn’t  this 
jolly?  Now  I feel  that  pain  in  my  shoulder:  a leetle 
rum  won’t  hurt  it ; you  can  try  the  water-cure.” 

And  on  we  galloped  over  the  smooth,  grassy  plains, 
while  the  sun,  resembling  a huge  red  shield,  sank  be- 
fore us  into  the  grass. 

The  next  day’s  travel  brought  us  to  the  very  heart 
of  the  gaucho  dominion.  As  far  as  the  vision  extend- 
ed, and  still  farther  beyond,  a level  plain,  covered  with 
grass,  spread  out,  on  which  vast  herds  of  cattle,  the 
wealth  of  the  herdsmen,  were  feeding.  On  we  rode, 
our  horses  devouring  space  with  almost  untiring  speed. 


PAMPA  CATTLE. 


79 


Thus  fur  during  our  day’s  ride  we  had  not  met  with  a sin- 
gle human  being.  Nothing  possessing  life,  except  cattle 
and  horses,  had  we  seen.  But  at  length  we  fell  in  with  a 
large  herd ; and  attending  them  were  two  gauchos,  sit- 
ting on  the  ground,  engrossed  in  a game  of  cards,  their 
horses  standing  beside  them.  As  we  approached,  they 
respectfully  touched  their  hats,  and  wished  us  a “ buenos 
dias  ” (good  day).  We  inquired  of  them  the  name  of 
the  owner  of  the  neighboring  herds,  when  they  replied 
that  we  were  upon  the  estancia  of  Don  Carlos  B., 
in  whose  service  they  were  employed  as  peons.  We 
again  put  our  horses  to  the  gallop,  and  sped  on  over 
the  smooth  turf.  All  day  the  same  speed  was  kept  up  ; 
for  our  animals  were  true  pampa  steeds,  and  scorned  a 
trot.  Having  traversed  many  miles,  we  met  with  an- 
other herd  of  cattle,  which,  instead  of  moving  from  us, 
as  did  the  droves  which  we  passed  in  the  morning, 
seemed  differently  minded.  Two  or  three  old  bulls 
left  their  several  companies,  and  approached  the  spot 
where  we  drew  up  our  horses.  The  old  fellows  seemed 
very  courageous,  lowering  their  heads,  and  shaking 
their  long,  shaggy  locks,  as  if  determined  to  contest  our 
passage,  or  protect  their  weaker  companions,  who  were 
closely  huddled  behind  those  pampa  kings.  We  dis- 
mounted, and,  leaving  our  horses,  advanced  towards 
the  bulls.  But  the  moment  we  touched  the  ground  the 
animals  assumed  another  character : as  we  advanced  on 
foot  towards  them,  they  bellowed  loudly,  and,  turning, 
with  their  heads  down  and  tails  up,  scampered  off  as 
fast  as  fear  could  impel  them,  the  ground  trembling 
under  the  tread  of  thousands  of  heavy  hoofs. 

Daniel  laughingly  explained,  while  we  were  mount- 


80 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


ing  our  horses,  that,  in  those  distant  parts,  cattle  know 
man  only  when  he  is  mounted  upon  horseback,  and 
that  a gaucho  on  foot  is  so  rarely  beheld  that  he  is  al- 
ways mistaken  for  some  unknown  beast  of  prey. 

As  night  came  on,  we  dismounted,  and,  taking 
off  the  recardo , or  country  saddle,  spread  it  upon  the 
grass  for  a bed ; we  then  hobbled  our  horses,  and,  after 
making  a meal  off  a strip  of  roasted  beef,  lay  down  to 
a night’s  welcome  sleep. 

At  dawn  we  were  again  in  motion,  and,  after  gallop- 
ing a mile  or  two,  met  a solitary  gaucho,  who  was 
chasing  a herd  of  cattle.  On  our  calling  to  him,  he  in- 
stantly wheeled  his  horse,  and,  on  inquiry,  informed  us 
— for  your  gaucho  is  a polite  fellow  — that  we  were 
upon  the  estancia  of  Don  Carlos  B. 

“ Don  Carlos ! ” we  exclaimed.  “ Why,  we  were  upon 
his  estate  yesterday,  and  have  galloped  many  miles 
since  then.  Can  it  be  that  his  estancia  is  so  large  ? ” 

“Yes,”  answered  the  gaucho.  “Don  Carlos  is  the 
largest  estanciero  within  three  hundred  miles.” 

“ How  large  is  his  farm,  then  ? ” I asked. 

The  gaucho  confessed  that  he  was  ignorant,  and 
neither  did  his  master  know ; for  many  years  before  a 
pampero , or  hurricane,  carried  away  the  boundary 
stakes.*  And  even  his  estate  is  small  beside  that  of 
Candioti,  the  once  great  pampa  lord,  who  possessed 
upwards  of  two  hundred  square  leagues  of  territory,  and 
was  owner  of  nearly  a million  head  of  cattle,  besides 

* General  Rosas,  late  president  of  the  Argentine  Republic, 
owned  an  estancia , south  of  Buenos  Ayres,  that  contained  sev- 
enty-four square  leagues.  — Darwin’s  Voyage . 


DON  CARLOS. 


81 


hundreds  of  thousands  of  horses  and  mules.  Candioti 
lived  in  Santa  Fe,  and  once  had  not  a real  of  his  own ; 
but  before  he  died  he  sent  annually  to  Peru  many  thou- 
sands of  mules,  and  a hundred  heavily-laden  wagons  of 
merchandise.  Since  his  death,  his  estate  has  been  di- 
vided among  his  large  family  of  illegitimate  children. 

As  we  continued  to  draw  the  gaucho  out,  he  warmed 
up  with  his  subject,  and  enthusiastically  praised  his 
master,  Don  Carlos.  He  dwelt  with  especial  pride  upon 
his  great  prowess ; told  us  how  he  twice  inflicted  deep 
wounds  upon  the  body  of  Don  Yicente  Moreno,  the 
famous  fighter,  on  the  last  feast  day.  He  informed  us 
that  his  great  man,  “ Don  Carlos,  can  catch  a shaven 
and  greased  pig  by  the  tail,  and  shoulder  it ; can  ride 
the  wildest  bull  upon  the  pampas,  until,  worn  down  by 
fatigue,  it  allows  the  don  to  lead  it  to  the  corral.”  In 
fine,  so  many  and  varied  were  this  gentleman’s  accom- 
plishments, that  we  wondered  that  we  had  not  heard 
of  him  before. 

From  what  we  heard  of  Don  Carlos,  we  imagined 
him  to  be  a mighty  personage ; or  at  least  I did,  and 
Don  Daniel  pretended  to,  and  believed  his  dwelling  to 
be  almost  a palace,  judging  by  his  immense  wealth,  of 
which  we  had  had  abundant  proofs  in  our  long  ride. 
Seeing  that  we  were  struck  with  the  gaucho’s  enthusi- 
asm, he  offered  to  lead  us  to  the  presence  of  his  mas- 
ter, which  offer  we  accepted.  Galloping  across  the 
pampa,  we  at  last  discovered  a small  object,  like  a speck 
in  the  distance,  which  the  herdsman  pronounced  to  be 
the  residence  of  his  master. 

As  we  drew  near  the  house,  my  previous  fine  notions 
received  a severe  shock ; for,  instead  of  an  elegant  man- 
6 


82 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


sion,  with  verandas  and  towers,  we  found  a hut  of 
stakes,  cornstalks,  and  mud.  Two  or  three  holes 
knocked  through  its  sides  served  as  windows  and  ven- 
tilators. A few  peach-trees  grew  behind  the  building ; 
but  they  were  not  planted  to  supply  the  family  with 
fruit,  but  served  for  fuel  for  the  estanciero  ; for  no  trees 
grow  on  these  plains  save  those  planted  for  firewood. 

Don  Carlos  came  out  of  his  mansion;  for  the  barking 
of  no  less  than  twenty  dogs  had  heralded  our  approach, 
long  before  we  reached  the  tloor.  Dismounting  from 
our  horses,  we  repeated  a solemn  Ave  Maria,  to  which 
the  don  made  some  appropriate  reply,  and  then  invited 
us  within  doors,  and  introduced  us  to  a dark-complex- 
ioned woman,  whom  he  called  Dona  Maria,  his  wife. 

Mate  yerba , the  South  American  tea,  was  brought 
out,  and  served  by  the  lady  herself,  who,  in  preparing 
it,  reclined  on  the  ground  in  a position  far  from  grace- 
ful. A kettle,  one  or  two  tawdry  North  American 
chairs,  and  an  old  table,  seemed  to  form  the  only  furni- 
ture of  the  household.  Our  attention  was  attracted  by 
several  crania  of  oxen  that  lay  scattered  about  the  hut, 
and,  thinking  that  they  might  have  been  kept  as  relics 
of  departed  favorites,  I asked  no  questions;  but  I 
learned  afterwards  that  the  skulls  were  pampa  chairs, 
and  were  used  as  such  by  the  natives. 

The  don  was  a small,  dark-complexioned  man,  with 
black,  restless  eyes,  that  were  constantly  scanning  sur- 
rounding objects.  His  father  was  a Spaniard,  his 
mother  an  Indian  woman.  Although  he  was  forty 
years  old,  he  had  visited  the  capital  but  half  a dozen 
times.  When  he  was  absent,  he  said,  his  mind  wan- 
dered back  to  his  estancia , and  he  was  not  satisfied 


PAMPA  LIFE. 


83 


until  he  was  again  among  his  herds.  Though  hospita- 
ble in  his  manner,  he  was  a misanthrope,  and  placed 
but  little  confidence  in  mankind. 

When  we  informed  our  entertainers  that  we  had 
come  from  North  America,  we  were  beset  with  numer- 
ous questions.  “Where  is  North  America?”  “Can 
a man  travel  there  on  horseback  in  two  months?” 
“Is  it  situated  in  England  or  France?”  “Is  your 
moon  like  ours  ? ” “ What  food  do  your  people  eat  ? ” 

and  such  other  queries  were  made. 

We  found  that  the  don’s  family  was  composed  of 
several  sons  and  one  or  two  daughters;  but  no  two 
of  the  children  were  of  the  same  complexion.  I won- 
dered at  this,  as  I was  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  our 
host  was  a polygamist ; and  though  Dona  Maria  acted 
as  his  present  wife,  and  as  mother  to  children  not  her 
own,  she  never  murmured,  for  her  husband  was  her 
lord  and  master. 

All  these  sons  were  treated  alike,  and  lived  together 
in  perfect  contentment,  while  some  of  the  degraded 
beings  who  bore  them  acted  as  cooks  and  servants  to 
the  household.  A little  corn  was  boiled  and  eaten 
with  meat,  without  salt ; and  after  reverently  crossing 
themselves  before  the  crucifix,  which  occupied  a cor- 
ner, the  family  betook  themselves  to  their  saddle-cloths 
— for  it  was  now  night  — to  rest. 

The  morning  dawned  beautifully  upon  us.  As 
the  heavy  mist  rolled  off  the  pampas,  we  beheld  the 
gauchos  departing  in  various  directions  to  their  respec- 
tive herds,  for  it  was  their  duty  to  prevent  the  animals 
from  straying  off  the  estancia;  and  though  thousands 
upon  thousands  of  cattle  bear  upon  their  hides  the 


84 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


brand  of  the  proprietor,  it  is  rarely  that  one  is  lost. 
Each  gaucho  can  recognize  every  animal  that  belongs 
to  his  particular  herd,  let  the  number  be  hundreds. 

The  gauchos  returned  to  breakfast  at  about  eleven 
o’clock,  and  while  they  were  eating  their  beef  and 
taking  mate, , I took  a walk  into  the  vicinity  of  our 
host’s  dwelling.  Close  at  hand  were  two  or  three 
large  staked  enclosures  called  corrals,  into  which  the 
horses  used  by  the  family  were  driven  nightly  for  con- 
venience’ sake.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  all  the  ani- 
mals ave  one  had  been  turned  out  to  graze ; this  one 
remained,  as  is  customary,  tied  to  a stake  throughout 
the  day,  to  be  in  readiness  for  any  emergency.  The 
poor  fellow  stands  all  day  without  eating  a mouthful 
of  food.  He  could  not  eat  grain,  having  learned  to 
eat  nothing  but  grass ; and  as  hay  was  an  unknown 
luxury  on  the  pampa,  he  was  obliged  to  wait  until 
night  came  for  his  food. 

* As  I wandered  about  the  place,  my  attention  was 
drawn  to  the  little  parties  of  animals  grazing  around 
me.  The  oxen  were  very  large,  and  would  compare 
most  favorably  with  the  finest  in  North  America.  The 
cows  so  resembled  the  oxen  in  roughness  of  form  and 
size  of  limb,  that  I at  once  pronounced  them  inferior 
to  our  own  in  beauty.  Out  of  thousands  of  cows  upon 
the  estancia , only  three  were  milked,  and  these  but 
once  a day.  These  cows,  more  civilized  than  their 
relatives  upon  the  plains,  yield  only  five  or  six  quarts 
of  milk  daily,  and  I wondered  at  their  barrenness,  but 
was  afterwards  informed  by  the  estanciero  that  they 
gave  him  all  the  milk  he  wanted  for  cheese,  and,  there- 
fore, he  need  not  care  to  improve  the  stock. 


HOESES  OF  THE  PAMPAS. 


85 


The  size  of  the  horses  I noticed  to  be,  on  the  aver- 
age, smaller  than  that  of  our  own  animals,  though 
there  were  many  noble  specimens,  both  of  size  and 
beauty,  feeding  on  the  plains.  These  large  horses  are 
generally  selected  to  sell  to  Chilians;  for  the  people 
of  Chili  prefer  large  animals,  and  even  trot  their  horses 
in  some  of  the  cities. 

The  pampa  horses  never  feel  the  brush  or  comb; 
their  coats  are  rough,  and,  instead  of  heav^  manes  and 
flowing  tails,  they  can  boast  of  little  in  either.  In  one 
thing  they  can  claim  superiority  over  our  own  most 
valuable  animals:  a pampa  horse  can  gallop  a whole 
day  with  a man  upon  its  back,  and  can  endure  priva- 
tions that  would  soon  kill  our  stable-reared  pets. 

When  I returned  to  the  hut,  I informed  our  host 
that  in  my  country  animals  are  habitually  kept  housed, 
in  better  buildings,  in  many  instances,  than  his  own 
residence;  and,  moreover,  in  place  of  allowing  them 
to  dwindle  to  mere  skeletons,  by  living  upon  dead 
grass  in  the  winter  time,  as  many  of  his  horses  did, 
they  are  fed  upon  an  article  called  hay,  — prepared 
grass,  — and  grow  fat  and  sleek  on  grain. 

“ What!”  exclaimed  Don  Carlos,  “horses  in  houses! 
Who  ever  heard  of  such  a thing  ? ” And  the  look  he 
gave  implied  that  his  private  opinion  was  that  North 
Americans  are  greater  fools  than  he  took  them  to  be. 

It  was  useless  to  argue  the  great  value  of  our  horses 
in  comparison  with  his ; he  could  not  believe  that  a 
horse  ever  was  worth  two  hundred  dollars ; he  had 
thirty  thousand,  which  he  valued  at  four  dollars  each, 
and  forty  thousand  horned  cattle,  that  he  estimated  at 
eight  dollars  per  head. 


86 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


1 would  here  remark  that  the  same  kind  of  cattle 
could  have  been  bought  ten  years  since  for  half  the 
price  he  estimated  his  worth ; but  now  the  herdsman 
had  discovered  that  by  slaughtering  animals  for  their 
hides  thousands  have  been  wasted,  and  now  the  de- 
mand far  exceeds  the  supply,  and  the  price  of  raw 
hides  can  never  be  cheaper  than  it  is  at  present. 

Don  Carlos,  unlike  the  farmers  of  the  Banda  Orien- 
tal, did  not,  believe  in  sheep  grazing ; therefore  he 
never  permitted  his  flocks  to  increase  beyond  fifteen 
thousand.  An  offer  of  fifty  cents  a head  would  have 
been  immediately  accepted,  and  when  he  received  the 
money,  he  would  have  placed  it  in  a goat-skin,  with 
others  of  his  treasures,  and  buried  it  in  the  ground. 

I had  noticed  in  one  of  the  corrals  some  curious 
cattle,  of  a breed  unknown  to  me ; on  inquiry  I 
learned  that  they  were  of  the  Niata  breed,  - which 
originated  among  the  Indians  of  the  southern  pam- 
pas, and  was  once  more  numerous  than  the  kind  now 
common.  This  breed  is  seldom  met  with  at  present, 
and  Don  Carlos  had  secured  these  in  his  corral  by 
order  of  a foreigner  in  Buenos  Ayres,  who  intended 
sending  them  to  Paris.  These  animals  have  low, 
heavy  foreheads,  the  lower  part  being  recurved.  The 
teeth  project  from  the  mouth,  the  lips  being  short  and 
incapable  of  being  closed;  in  fact,  they  bear  resem- 
blance to  pug-nosed  dogs.  This  has  the  effect  of  giv- 
ing them  a fierce  and  terrible  look.  Our  host  remem- 
bered the  time  when  a severe  drought  prevented  the 
usual  growth  of  grass,  and  dried  it  up ; but  while 
other  cattle  lived  through  the  season,  many  of  the 
Niata  breed  were  found  dead  upon  the  plains,  be- 


OSTRICHES  AND  THEIR  HABITS. 


87 


cause,  on  account  of  the  peculiar  formation  of  their 
jaws  and  lips,  they  could  not  lay  hold  of  the  grass. 

Each  of  the  estanciero’s  daughters  had  a pet  ostrich, 
the  two  being  representatives  of  both  of  the  South 
American  species.  One  of  these  was  about  as  tall  as 
an  average-sized  man,  the  other  of  the  two  species 
about  two  thirds  as  tall.  The  first-mentioned  one  was 
caught  when  young  within  two  miles  of  the  house, 
and  its  species  is  quite  common  on  the  pampas;  the 
smaller  variety,  known  to  the  gauchos  as  the  Avestruz 
teteze , was  brought  from  Patagonia,  south  of  the  River 
Negro,  by  one  of  General  Rosas’s  old  soldiers.  Neither 
of  these  varieties  can  compare  with  the  great  African 
bird,  their  feathers  being  destitute  of  that  beauty  and 
delicacy  which  has  made  the  last-named  bird  famous 
in  all  countries.  In  fact,  the  South  American  ostriches 
are  properly  cassowaries,  a three-toed  species;  the 
African  has  but  two  toes,  and  is,  besides,  nearly  twice 
the  size  of  the  others. 

As  there  have  been  many  conflicting  and  incorrect 
accounts  published  concerning  these  birds,  I will  here 
give  the  most  interesting,  and  I believe  correct,  infor- 
mation that  I have  been  able  to  gather. 

The  male  bird  prepares  the  nest,  and  is  obliged 
sometimes  to  gather  the  eggs  into  it,  the  female  often 
being  careless  as  to  where  she  deposits  them.  I have 
been  told  that  the  male  will  attack  man  if  the  nest  is 
disturbed,  leaping  up  and  attempting  to  strike  him  with 
his  feet. 

When  pursued,  the  ostrich  readily  takes  to  the  water, 
swimming  slowly  but  fearlessly ; it  has  been  observed 
migrating  from  island  to  island,  swimming  apparently 
without  great  effort. 


88 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


The  food  of  these  birds  consists  of  grasses,  various 
roots,  and  the  sweet  pod  of  the  algaroba  tree,  with 
which  they  swallow  stones,  shells,  and  other  hard  sub- 
stances, to  assist  in  digestion. 

In  the  spring  months  — in  south  latitude,  Septem- 
ber, October,  and  November — the  male  selects  his 
wives,  from  three  to  eight  in  number,  and  assumes 
full  control  of  their  movements,  fighting  off  any  bach- 
elor bird  that  may  attempt  to  carry  on  a flirtation  with 
any  of  his  family.  Some  gauchos  assert  that  the  whole 
family  of  hens  deposit  their  eggs  in  one  nest  or  its 
vicinity.  In  such  cases  the  eggs  number  from  eighteen 
to  fifty.  It  would  seem  that  so  large  a number  it  would 
be  difficult  to  cover;  but  ostrich  eggs  seem  to  suffer 
but  little  by  neglect  during  incubation. 

A gentleman  who  travelled  as  far  south  as  the  Rio 
Negro  states  that  some  eggs  are  allowed  to  remain 
outside  the  nest,  and  these  are  broken  by  the  parent, 
when  the  young  in  the  others  are  hatched,  to  attract 
the  flies  upon  which  the  chicks  feed  during  the  first 
few  days  of  their  lives. 

Fleet  of  foot,  possessed  of  great  endurance,  the  os- 
trich is  captured  only  by  the  continued  efforts  of  sev- 
eral horsemen,  who  either  drive  it  in  circles  or  give  it 
direct  chase,  each  horse  when  tired  being  relieved  by 
a fresh  animal  and  rider. 

When  the  bird  has  become  so  exhausted  that  it  can 
be  approached  within  forty  or  fifty  yards,  the  bolidores 
— three  balls  attached  to  cords  of  equal  lengths,  which 
are  fastened  to  one  thong  — are  whirled  around  above 
the  head  of  the  gaucho,  until  they  have  attained  a 
proper  impetus,  and  launched  at  the  bird,  whose  legs 
become  entangled,  and  he  falls  an  easy  prey. 


TAMING  WILD  COLTS. 


89 


The  male  bird  is  easily  distinguished  from  the  female 
by  his  larger  head,  and  the  darker  color  of  his  plumage. 
The  gauchos  sometimes  kill  them  for  food,  eating  the 
wings  and  feet  only. 

I had  heard  of  the  method  by  which  wild  colts  are 
rendered  submissive,  and  requested  Don  Carlos  to  per- 
mit me  to  witness  the  operation.  The  gauchos  had 
finished  their  meal,  and  as  they  were  about  to  depart 
for  the  pampas,  we  saddled  our  horses,  and,  mounting, 
were  ready  to  accompany  them.  On  the  fellows  gal- 
loped like  the  wind,  swinging  the  ends  of  their  bridles 
over  their  heads,  and  shouting  boisterously  to  each 
other.  Three  miles  were  quickly  passed  over,  and  we 
drew  up  before  a herd  of  several  hundred  animals, 
nearly  all  of  which  were  mothers  with  their  foals.  A 
beautiful  young  mare  attracted  my  attention,  and  I 
must  confess  I wished  to  possess  her.  I desired  the 
don  to  select  her  for  the  one  to  undergo  the  breaking- 
in  process.  I saw  at  once  that  I had  made  a faux  pas , 
for  all  the  gauchos  burst  into  a loud  laugh,  and  de- 
clared that  “North  Americans  must  be  queer  people. 
Who  ever  heard  of  training  a mare  to  the  saddle?” 
“ Why ! ” exclaimed  another,  with  a contemptuous  curl 
of  his  lip,  “do  you  work  mares  in  your  country?  Why, 
man,  I would  as  soon  think  of  putting  a saddle  upon 
my  poor  old  mother’s  back,  and  forcing  a bridle  into 
her  mouth,  as  of  breaking  in  a mare!  The  people 
of  North  America  are  savages ! ” 

Mares  are  respected  in  the  country  of  the  herds- 
man, and  it  is  considered  an  ungrateful  and  indecent 
act  to  require  labor  of  the  mothers  of  horses. 

Seeing  that,  through  ignorance,  I had  lowered  my- 


90 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


self  in  the  opinion  of  the  pampa  lord  and  his  follow- 
ers, I concluded  to  hold  my  peace  in  future,  and  await 
events  without  trying  to  shape  them.  At  last  Don 
Carlos  selected  a fine  young  horse,  and  pointed  it  out 
to  one  of  his  men  as  a fit  subject  for  his  skill. 

The  gaucho  loosened  the  lasso  from  behind  him,  and 
made  the  running  noose,  which  is  held  in  one  hand, 
while  in  the  other  are  grasped  several  coils  ready  to 
run  out  at  the  proper  moment.  The  victim  was  sep- 
arated from  the  drove,  and  the  horse  bestrode  by  the 
gaucho  started  after  it  with  the  rapidity  of  the  wind. 
The  fugitive  strained  every  nerve  to  distance  his  pur- 
suer ; but  as  a trained  horse,  if  mounted  by  a herds- 
man, can  generally  overtake  a free  one,  however  fleet 
he  may  be,  the  lasso  soon  left  the  gaucho’s  hand,  his 
horse  wheeled,  and  braced  his  feet  for  a shock  which 
in  an  inslant  occurred,  the  noose  settling  over  the  head 
of  the  victim,  and  checking  him  in  his  flight  so  sud- 
denly that  he  fell  in  a somerset  upon  his  back. 

At  first  the  colt  was  stunned  by  the  fall;  but,  re- 
covering, he  arose  to  his  feet,  and  began  pulling  upon 
the  lasso  until  his  eyes  seemed  as  if  about  to  start  from 
their  sockets.  A second  gaucho  now  galloped  to  the 
assistance  of  his  friend,  and,  skilfully  throwing  his  lasso 
around  the  hind  legs  of  the  victim,  started  away  in 
another  direction,  by  which  movement  the  colt  was 
thrown  to  the  ground,  and  his  hind  legs  stretched  out 
to  their  full  length.  The  feet  were  now  tied  together 
with  a strip  of  hide,  the  lassoes  were  removed,  and  the 
poor  animal  was  helpless  on  the  ground,  and  panting 
with  fear. 

But  the  real  work  of  breaking  him  in  was  yet  to  be 


TAMING  WILD  COLTS. 


91 


done.  A saddle  was  placed  upon  his  back,  and  a piece 
of  lasso  thrust  into  his  mouth  to  serve  as  a bridle;  the 
bonds  on  his  feet  were  then  loosened  enough  to  permit 
him  to  rise  to  his  feet,  and  two  men  held  him  by  the 
ears,  while  his  eyes  were  being  covered  with  a poncho. 
The  question,  “Who  is  to  ride  him?”  was  hardly  asked 
before  each  gaucho  asserted  his  right  to  a seat  upon 
his  back. 

The  youngest  son  of  the  estanciero  was  selected  to 
prove  his  horsemanship  to  the  North  Americans.  He 
jumped  into  the  saddle  with  a determination  to  con- 
quer, and  shouting,  “Let  go!”  drove  his  sharp  iron 
spurs  into  the  animal’s  flanks.  The  colt  did  not  move 
a muscle,  but  seemed  overwhelmed  with  astonishment 
and  fear. 

Another  application  of  the  spurs  seemed  to  recall 
him  to  his  senses.  He  backed  slowly,  and  then  plunged 
forward  with  astonishing  force,  rose  upon  his  hind  legs, 
and  then  fell  to  the  ground,  turning  and  twisting  his 
body  in  every  conceivable  contortion,  but  to  no  pur- 
pose ; his  future  master  was  upon  him,  and  it  was  use- 
less attempting  to  unseat  him.  The  beast  now  attempt- 
ed a new  course ; he  dashed  forward  in  a gallop  across 
the  plains,  moving  with  a speed  that  only  fear  and  rage 
could  give  him.  We  followed  as  fast  as  our  horses 
could  travel ; but  he  distanced  us,  until,  stopping  sud- 
denly, he  plunged,  reared,  kicked,  and  pranced  in  his 
efforts  to  unseat  his  rider;  but  at  every  movement,  the 
steel  spurs  of  the  gaucho  stung  him  in  the  flanks.  An 
hour  passed,  but  the  colt  was  untamed,  and  he  now 
attempted  another  plan  for  procuring  his  freedom. 
Bending  his  neck  until  his  nose  touched  the  ground, 


92 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


and  throwing  his  legs  together,  he  jumped  into  the  air, 
throwing  his  rider  at  each  jump  nearly  two  feet  above 
his  saddle. 

“Now  comes  the  vuelto  malo ” (bad  turn),  shouted 
Don  Carlos ; “ look,  hijo  mio  ! ” The  colt’s  nose  again 
touched  the  ground ; he  then  attempted  to  throw  a 
summersault;  he  almost  succeeded;  if  he  had,  he  would 
have  crushed  the  boy;  but  the  rider  watched  the 
right  opportunity,  and  adjusted  the  position  and  weight 
of  his  body,  so  that  the  horse  was  forced  to  settle  upon 
his  feet,  when  he  again  broke  into  a gallop ; but  his  step 
was  feeble,  and  his  strength  gone,  and  he  would  fain  lie 
upon  the  grass  if  his  terrible  persecutor  would  permit. 

His  great  exertions  at  length  overpowered  him,  and, 
conquered,  he  allowed  the  gaucho  to  dismount,  and 
place  a halter  over  his  head.  What  a change  had  come 
over  the  animal  that  two  hours  before  was  galloping 
over  the  plains  with  the  freedom  of  the  winds ! He 
stood  perfectly  still,  his  eyes  closed;  his  flanks  were 
covered  with  sweat,  which  rolled  off  his  body  in  large 
drops ; blood  oozed  from  the  wounds  inflicted  by  the 
spur,  and  trickled  down  his  limbs ; the  nostrils  were 
dilated,  and  blood  was  seen  about  the  nose  and  mouth ; 
every  vein  stood  prominent  upon  his  swollen  body,  and 
his  whole  appearance  was  that  of  intense  suffering  and 
fear. 

“ What  a cruel  system ! ” I involuntarily  exclaimed. 
“ How  the  poor  animal  has  suffered  ! ” 

The  gaucho  again  laughed,  and  answered,  “Why  do 
you  pity  him  ? he  is  worth  but  three  dollars.  There  are 
plenty  more  better  than  this  one.” 

The  young  conqueror  of  eighteen  led  home  his  prize. 


GAUCHO’s  EQUESTRIAN  SKILL. 


93 


and  placed  it  in  the  corral,  where  it  lay  for  several 
days,  unable  to  stand,  eat,  or  sleep.  Such  is  the  course 
of  training,  or  breaking  in,  of  wild  colts.  At  the  expi- 
ration of  ten  days  after  the  first  lesson  the  animal  is 
again  ridden,  and  a third  lesson  completely  breaks  him, 
W'hen  he  is  increased  fifty  cents  in  value,  which  sum  is 
paid  the  gaucho  for  his  trouble,  and  the  pains  he  has  to 
endure  from  the  conflict.*  Of  course  the  colt’s  mouth 
is  too  tender  to  bear  the  hard  iron  bit  for  many  days. 

After  we  returned  to  the  house,  the  gauchos,  to  fur- 
ther show  their  prowess  and  accomplishments,  prepared 
for  some  of  their  favorite  games.  First  came  the  trial 
of  “ breasting  horses.” 

Two  gauchos  mounted  their  steeds,  and,  after  receiv- 
ing and  answering  the  proper  challenge,  separated, 
taking  stands  about  forty  rods  apart.  At  a given  sig- 
nal, they  spurred  their  horses,  and,  as  if  bent  on  de- 
stroying each  other,  rushed  with  the  greatest  force  their 
steeds  together,  breast  to  breast.  So  great  was  the 
concussion,  that  the  riders  were  forced  from  the  ani- 
mals’ backs,  and  tumbled,  half  stunned,  to  the  ground. 
But  they  quickly  recovered ; and,  as  both  were  anxious 
for  a second  trial,  they  mounted  again  and  dashed  to- 
gether, this  time  only  one  being  unseated,  but  he  was 
so  lame  that  he  declined  a third  trial. 

Next  came  the  trial  of  crowding  horses. 

Two  mounted  gauchos  placed  their  beasts  side  by 
side,  and,  spurring  the  animals  on  the  flanks,  each  strug- 

* In  conversation  with  many  gauchos  who  break  in  colts  for 
the  estancieros,  I have  been  informed  this  is  the  price  paid  them 
for  their  labor,  and  in  hard  times  even  a less  sum  is  paid.  This 
was  in  the  far  interior  of  the  pampa  provinces.  — Author. 


94 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


gled  to  crowd  the  other.  The  horses  seemed  to  share 
their  riders’  spirits,  and  at  last  one  little  beast  crowded 
his  opponent  up  to  the  door  of  the  cook-house,  and 
finally  through  it.  This  was  followed  by  another  game. 

A bar  was  placed  across  the  corral  entrance,  at  about 
the  height  of  the  horse’s  head.  A gaucho  mounted, 
and  then  retired  several  rods  from  the  corral,  when  he 
turned,  and  galloped  towards  the  gate,  and,  without 
checking  his  speed,  threw  himself  out  of  the  saddle, 
and,  passing  with  the  horse  under  the  bar,  regained  his 
seat,  without  having  left  the  animal  or  touched  the 
ground.  Loud  applause  followed  the  achievement,  and 
others  followed  in  the  game,  all  with  good  success. 

As  I had  seen,  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  the  skill 
with  which  the  gaucho  can  throw  the  lasso,  Don  Carlos 
expressed  the  desire  to  show  his  skill  with  the  bolia- 
clores.  Mounting  his  horse,  and  removing  the  three 
balls  which  were  fastened  to  the  peak  of  his  saddle,  he 
gave  chase  to  a cow,  and,  when  within  thirty  or  forty 
yards  of  her,  whirled  the  balls  around  his  head  with 
great  force,  and  cast  them  towards  her.  Away  they 
flew  through  the  air  like  chain-shot,  and,  fastening 
themselves  about  the  hind  legs  of  the  fugitive,  tumbled 
her  to  the  ground  in  an  instant. 

The  three  boliadores  are  made  of  round  stones,  en- 
closed in  hide  covers ; they  are  attached  to  the  lasso 
by  long  sinews  of  animals.  Wooden  balls  are  used 
when  it  is  feared  that  stone  boliadores  might  break  the 
legs  of  the  animal  or  bird  to  be  captured. 

JEstancia  life  has  a degree  of  loneliness  and  quiet 
that  would  be  unbearable  to  any  one  but  those  who 
have  been  reared  in  it,  or  have  lived  in  places  similar 
in  character  to  the  surrounding  country. 


ESTANCIA  LIFE. 


95 


On  the  estancia  lives  the  proprietor  and  his  family, 
alone  in  the  solitude  of  the  plains.  Around  them  is 
one  continual  monotony,  with  no  moving  thing,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  save  the  herds  that  graze  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  house.  Day  after  day  the  same  routine 
is  followed,  until,  from  very  habit,  it  becomes  a second 
nature.  The  young  herdsman  has  the  few  characters 
around  him  to  imitate ; and  as  he  sees  but  little  of  the 
outside  world,  — and  then  only  when  some  dia  de  fieste 
attracts  him  to  the  nearest  village,  — he  grows  up  an 
exact  copy  of  his  father;  so  far  as  character  and  general 
mental  qualities  go,  a veritable  “ chip  of  the  old  block.” 
Therefore,  when  we  take  into  consideration  the  isolated 
life  of  the  gauchos,  we  should  willingly  pardon  some 
of  their  many  failings. 

The  gauchos  of  the  towns  give  no  more  correct  idea 
of  their  pampa  brethren  than  do  the  domesticated  In- 
dians of  our  western  country  of  the  savage  tribes  of  the 
prairies  and  forests  before  the  arrival  of  the  pilgrims. 
It  is  only  away  upon  the  vast  plains  that  the  gaucho  is 
found  in  the  same  half-civilized  state  that  he  was  in 
fifty  years  ago. 

A distinguished  Argentine  statesman  and  author, 
wishing  to  fairly  civilize  the  gauchos,  formed  a society 
for  the  purpose,  to  which  many  of  the  leading  estanci- 
eros  of  the  province  of  Buenos  Ayres  lent  their  influ- 
ence. It  was  the  object  of  the  society,  first,  to  persuade 
the  herdsmen  to  eschew  all  gewgaws,  such  as  silver 
mountings  for  their  horses,  trinkets,  the  peculiar  cos- 
tume of  the  pampas,  the  poncho,  chiropa,  frilled  draw- 
ers, wide  belt,  and  colt-skin  boots.  After  they  had 
effected  their  first  object,  and  dressed  the  fellows  in 


96 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


pantaloons,  coat,  and  boots,  they  intended  to  offer  them 
the  means  of  education  and  enlightenment,  by  means 
of  teachers,  books,  &c.  The  plan  has  not  been  carried 
out,  and,  according  to  the  last  accounts  from  the  coun- 
try, it  had  not  met  with  any  real  encouragement.  The 
gaucho  will  still  be  a gaucho,  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts 
of  philanthropists  to  educate  him. 

The  character  of  the  gaucho  is  a curious  combination 
of  deceit,  superstition,  and  hospitality,  the  latter  not 
real,  but  only  assumed,  with  the  expectation  of  gain  or 
reward.  Though  they  show  aversion  to  manual  labor, 
and  are  generally  proud-spirited  (particularly  in  the 
provinces  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Cordova),  they  are  easily 
amused ; the  guitar  and  mazes  of  the  dance  possess 
strong  attractions  for  them,  and  they  will  enter  into 
la  zamba  cueca  with  a wonderful  degree  of  interest. 

The  gauchos  exhibit  a combination  of  the  customs 
of  other  countries.  They  use  the  lasso  after  the  man- 
ner of  the.  Mexican  vaquero.  Miers  shows  that  their 
habit  of  cooking  meat  upon  a stick  or  iron  spit  ( asaclor ) 
came  from  the  Moors,  through  Spain.  They  have  bor- 
rowed several  of  their  customs  from  the  aboriginal  in- 
habitants, — the  use  of  the  yerba,  sucking  it  through  a 
tube  from  the  gourd,  the  mate , also  that  formidable 
weapon,  the  boliadores , and  the  lariat,  or  lasso,  which  is 
used  by  tffe  pampa  tribes  and  Patagonians. 

The  estancia  life  is  best  fitted  to  develop  the  true 
gaucho  character ; there  is  a freedom  of  feeling  experi- 
enced in  coursing  over  the  boundless  plains  that  is 
peculiarly  agreeable  to  him. 

A little  sketch  of  estancia  life  will,  perhaps,  not  prove 
uninteresting  to  the  reader. 


ESTANCIA  LIFE. 


97 


First,  regarding  the  right  of  possession  and  equality 
of  standing  of  the  members  of  the  family  relative  to  the 
property  upon  which  they  live. 

The  estancia  is  generally  left  by  will  to  the  wife  and 
children,  the  wife  one  third,  the  boys  and  girls  equal 
shares.  Sometimes  she  who  has  been  called  wife,  is 
not  legally  entitled  to  the  name ; but  this  matters  lit- 
tle ; she  had  the  right  of  the  property  while  her  sjiouse 
lived,  and  the  same  rule  follows  afler  death,  unless 
specially  mentioned  in  the  last  will  and  testament,  by 
her  lord,  to  the  contrary.  The  members  of  the  family 
rarely  divide  the  property,  but  live  together  as  before 
the  head  of  the  family  died,  each  member  consulting 
the  others  before  making  any  sales  of  stock,  <fcc. 

The  peons,  or  laborers,  that  live  upon  the  estancia, 
rise  half  an  hour  before  sunrise,  take  a mate  without 
sugar  (unless  the  proprietor  is  unusually  considerate), 
and  at  sunrise  select  the  horses  from  the  drove  in  the 
corral.  A portion  of  the  number  mount,  and  gallop 
off  to  their  respective  herds,  to  select  a new  pasturage 
ground,  and  to  prevent  them  from  straying  away. 

The  remaining  peons  select  the  half-broken  colts, 
and,  after  tying  them  to  stout  stakes,  entangle  the  ani- 
mals with  coils  of  the  lasso,  tripping  them  off  their  feet, 
and  rolling  them  on  the  ground.  This  is  to  teach  the 
young  horse  to  be  gentle  under  difficulties,  or,  in  other 
words,  not  to  prance  and  kick  when  anything  touches 
the  heels. 

At  about  eight  or  nine  o’clock  the  peons  return,  and 
report  to  the  capatoz  (foreman),  or  to  the  estanciero 
himself,  the  condition  of  the  animals  under  their  respec- 
tive supervisions.  The  daily  ration  is  then  given  them, 
7 


98 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


which  they  cook  and  eat.  Perhaps  a colt  or  mule  is  to 
be  ridden  for  the  first  time ; if  so,  this  exercise  follows 
their  breakfast.  At  noon  the  peons  return  to  the  little 
shanties  that  surround  the  dwelling  of  their  master, 
and,  after  taking  a few  mates , and  perhaps  another 
asado , they  stretch  themselves  upon  the  ground  to  en- 
joy the  siesta  hour,  which,  however,  often  becomes 
hours  in  length. 

The  last  departure  to  the  plains  occurs  about  three 
o’clock,  and  all  the  men  return  about  dusk ; they  sup 
on  the  simple  roast,  drink  a few  mates , then  roll  them- 
selves up  in  their  ponchos,  and  sleep  soundly,  with 
only  a skin  or  hide  beneath  them,  until,  from  habit, 
they  awake  at  the  usual  hour,  and  commence  the  duties 
of  another  day. 

The  Sabbaths  and  feast  days  are  strictly  kept  by  the 
gauchos  in  their  own  peculiar  way.  They  consider  it 
wrong  to  work  on  these  days,  and  when  they  do,  a fine 
is  imposed  upon  the  offenders.  But  it  is  perfectly  al- 
lowable for  men  and  women  to  dance,  gamble,  and 
fight  upon  a feast  day.  If  the  traveller  is  by  any  chance 
in  one  of  the  small  mud  towns  in  the  pampa  country, 
he  will  see  gauchos  gallop  up  into  the  place  from  estan- 
cias  ten,  fifteen,  and  even  twenty  leagues  distant. 

They  pass  the  day  in  testing  horsemanship,  stealing, 
pitting  fighting-cocks,  confessing  sins  to  the  padres,  and 
not  unfrequently  the  grand  finale  is  a general  melee , 
from  which  few  escape  without  a wound.  On  such 
occasions,  he  who  can  particularly  distinguish  himself 
as  a didble  is  generally  treated  by  the  crowd,  who  ply 
him  with  aguardiente , and  other  liquors,  until  he  some- 
times mistakes  friends  for  foes.  A fine  of  twenty  dol- 


GAUCHO  COSTUME. 


99 


lars  was  once  imposed  on  Sabbath  and  feast-day  break- 
ers, — those  who  were  caught  at  work. 

As  the  priests  had  many  saints  to  distinguish  by 
honoring  them  with  particular  days,  the  list  received 
continual  acquisitions.  St.  John’s  day,  St.  Paul’s  day, 
Saint  this  one,  and  Saint  that,  cheated  the  laboring 
classes  of  the  towns  out  of  a living;  for  all  these  days 
were  better  adapted  for  losing  money  than  for  acquir- 
ing it.  But  General  Rosas  cut  down  the  long  list  of 
holidays  to  the  number  now  observed,  which  is  more 
than  large  enough  for  a fair  share  of  frolic  and  piety. 

When  dressed  in  full  regalia,  the  herdsman’s  appear- 
ance is  very  picturesque:  in  place  of  pantaloons  he 
wears  a chiropa  and  calgoncillas.  The  former  is  a 
square  piece  of  cloth  drawn  about  the  thighs,  and  fas- 
tened around  the  waist  with  a belt ; it  descends  as  far 
as  the  knees,  from  which  downward  the  leg  is  covered 
with  the  calgoncillas , a wide  pair  of'  linen  or  cotton 
drawers,  finely  worked,  and  ornamented  with  two  or 
three  frills.  The  feet  are  encased  in  a pair  of  botas  de 
potro , being  the  skin  stripped  from  the  leg  of  a calf, 
and  rubbed  until  it  has  become  soft  and  pliable.  The 
heels  are  decorated  with  a pair  of  iron  or  silver  spurs, 
of  huge  proportions,  that  rattle  and  jingle  as  the  gaucho 
moves  about.  A shirt,  poncho,  and  hat  complete  the 
costume. 

For  ornament  and  use,  the  gaucho  carries  a long 
knife,  placed  crosswise  in  his  belt  behind.  The  hilt  is 
very  broad,  and  contains  pockets  to  hold  tobacco,  flint 
and  steel,  and  horn  of  tinder ; the  outside  of  the  tiro* 
dor , as  the  belt  is  called,  is  covered  with  silver  and  base 
dollars,  that  are  the  gaucho’s  pride. 


100 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


Upon  a feast  day  the  fellow  decks  out  his  horse  with 
silver  ornaments,  and  rides  forth  to  see  and  to  be  seen. 
Not  unfrequently  his  wife  rides  behind  him,  seated 
upon  a poncho  laid  upon  the  horse’s  croup ; but  she  is 
inferior  to  his  horse  in  the  estimation  of  the  rider,  upon 
which  animal  is  lavished  almost  all  the  wealth  (if  he  is 
poor)  of  the  owner. 

We  passed  a most  pleasant  day  with  Don  Carlos, 
and  when  we  retired  to  our  couches  we  felt  that  the 
visit  had  been  well  worth  the  time  it  had  cost. 

On  the  next  morning,  as  soon  as  etiquette  would 
permit,  we  bade  adieu  to  bur  host  and  his  family,  and, 
mounting  our  horses,  commenced  our  long  ride  back 
to  Rosario. 

Nothing  occurred  of  importance,  or  that  would  in- 
terest the  reader,  and  the  next  day  we  were  welcomed 
cordially  by  the  G.’s,  my  friends  at  Rosario. 


DON  JOSE. 


101 


CHAPTER  VII. 

LIFE  ON  THE  PAMPAS. 

AT  sunrise  on  the  day  but  one  following  that  men- 
tioned at  the  close  of  the  preceding  chapter,  I 
left  the  house  of  my  hospitable  friend,  after  bidding 
farewell  to  my  amiable  hostess,  and  proceeded  with 
Mr.  G.  to  a plaza  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  from 
whence  all  troops  of  carts  or  mules  take  their  depar- 
ture for  the  interior  provinces  of  the  country. 

We  entered  the  square  in  time  to  find  Don  Jos6 
Leon  Perera,  the  patron  or  owner  of  the  caravan,  who 
was  reclining  upon  a skin  beneath  the  cart  that  con- 
tained his  personal  property,  enjoying  his  cigarito,  and 
finishing  his  fifth  mate.  This  gentleman  received  his 
visitors  with  a pompous  wave  of  the  hand,  and  request- 
ed us  to  be  seated,  pointing  at  the  same  time  to  an  old 
wheel  lying  not  far  off  upon  the  ground. 

Some  minutes  having  passed  in  exchanging  compli- 
ments, after  the  manner  of  the  country,  Mr.  G.  informed 
the  patron  that  he  had  with  him  a young  man  who 
had  come  from  El  Norte  with  the  intention  of  cross- 
ing the  pampas,  and  that  he  proposed  accompanying 
the  caravan  on  foot;  moreover,  as  he  was  inexperi- 
enced, it  would  be  necessary  to  place  him  beneath  his 
(Don  Jose’s)  protecting  care.  At  mention  of  my  cross- 


102 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


ing  the  plains  on  foot,  Don  Jose,  with  a stare  of  aston- 
ishment, declared  it  could  not  be  done.  To  the  second 
proposition  — that  of  his  assuming  my  guardianship 
— he  acquiesced,  however,  and  mentioned  upon  what 
terms  I could  accompany  him.  For  the  use  of  a horse 
(in  case  I should  need  an  animal),  and  a place  in  a 
cart  for  my  baggage,  seventeen  dollars  would  be  re- 
quired of  me  — a sum  sufficient  to  have  purchased  two 
ordinary  horses,  at  the  prices  which  they  then  were 
sold  at. 

Four  dollars  were  demanded  for  the  supply  of  meat, 
of  which  I was  to  have  an  ample  allowance ; and  be- 
sides this  sum,  a fee  of  one  dollar  was  to  be  given  to 
a native  — a fellow  of  villanous  appearance — who  was 
to  be  my  companero  (companion)  and  cook.  It  was  to 
be  his  particular  duty  to  see  that  his  protege  was  well 
attended,  well  fed,  and  guarded  from  all  harm  if  the 
Indians  should  attack  the  caravan.  Of  course  I was 
to  believe  that  great  valor  would  be  exhibited,  and 
much  blood  be  spilled,  by  the  brave  individual  who 
was  to  be  my  protector.  My  new  guardian  and  the 
other  drivers  of  the  carts  differed  widely  from  the  in- 
habitants of  the  pampa  provinces.  They  belonged  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  republic,  in  the  distant  prov- 
ince of  Santiago,  and  spoke  the  ancient  language  of 
their  fathers,  — the  Quichua,  — while  the  patron  and 
two  or  three  natives  of  the  lower  states  conversed 
in  the  Spanish  4or  common  language  of  the  country. 
Knowing  that  I should  be  unable  to  converse  with  Don 
Jose  or  his  peons  while  upon  the  journey,  I made  a 
number  of  inquiries  in  relation  to  the  manner  of  liv- 
ing, and  what  I might  expect  on  the  trip,  all  of  which, 


COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 


103 


with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  G.,  were  comprehended  by 
the  natives,  and  I was  answered  that  luxurious  living, 
sympathizing  friends,  and  unalloyed  enjoyment  were 
to  be  the  accompaniments  of  my  journey  across  the 
pampas.  The  anxiety  that  had  caused  me  many  sleep- 
less nights  previous  to  the  interview  with  the  patron 
and  his  Indian  peons  now  disappeared,  and  I looked 
forward  to  opportunities  for  gleaning,  in  a rich  field,  a 
harvest  of  information  and  valuable  facts  not  yet  famil- 
iar to  my  adventurous  countrymen. 

Matters  having  been  settled  by  my  paying  Don  Jose 
in  advance  the  full  demands  he  made,  Mr.  G.  took  me 
aside,  and  prayed  God  speed  me  on  my  way.  “If  you 
have  money  with  you,”  said  he,  “.by  no  means  let  it  be 
seen,  as  these  drivers  do  not  bear  a good  name,  and 
they  would  not  scruple  to  rob  you  should  opportunity 
offer.  The  patron  I believe  to  be  honest,  and  while 
he  is  with  the  troop  you  have  nothing  to  fear.”  He 
then  bade  me  farewell,  pressed  my  hand  cordially,  and 
we  parted. 

Towards  noon  about  one  hundred  oxen  were  driven 
into  the  plaza,  when  each  peon,  having  received  his 
allotted  six,  conducted  them  to  his  cart.  A piece  of 
tough  wood,  six  or  seven  feet  in  length,  five  inches  in 
width,  and  three  in  thickness,  served  as  a yoke ; it  was 
laid  on  the  neck,  just  back  of  the  animal’s  horns,  and 
lashed  securely  to  them  by  a long  strip  of  raw  hide, 
thus  causing  the  whole  strain  to  come  upon  the  head 
and  neck,  instead  of  upon  the  shoulders,  as  is  custom- 
ary with  cattle  that  are  yoked  as  in  the  United  States. 

The  carts  were  most  cumbrous  affairs,  and  in  appear- 
ance were  not  unlike  a rancho , or  native  hut,  set  upon 


104 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


wheels.  The  body  consisted  of  a framework  of  sticks, 
covered  upon  the  sides  and  back  with  small  reeds,  and 
roofed  with  cattle  hides,  which  rendered  them  secure 
against  the  heaviest  rain.  The  carts,  which  probably 
exceeded  twelve  feet  in  length,  were  only  four  feet 
wide,  and,  being  mounted  upon  two  wheels  of  extraor- 
dinary diameter,  were  sufficiently  novel  and  striking  to 
my  uneducated  eyes.  The  only  iron  used  in  their  con- 
struction consisted  of  a few  scraps  used  to  strengthen 
the  nave  of  the  wheel ; all  the  other  parts  were  fas- 
tene4  together  by  bands  of  hide,  and  wooden  pins. 
The  heavy  tongue  rested  upon  the  yoke  of  the  first 
pair  of  oxen,  and  from  it  ran  long  ropes  of  hide, 
which  connected  with  the  yokes  of  the  second  pair 
and  leaders. 

The  method  of  driving  the  oxen  practised  by  these 
people  is  most  barbarous.  There  projects,  a few  feet 
from  the  roof,  running  forward  of  the  cart,  a portion 
of  the  ridge-pole,  from  which  is  suspended,  by  a piece 
of  lasso,  a becket  that  swings  to  and  fro  with  the  mo- 
tion of  the  cart.  This  becket  supports  a heavy  cane, 
nearly  thirty  feet  in  length,  having  at  the  end  a sharp 
iron  nail  that  serves  to  quicken  the  movements  of  the 
leaders ; above  the  second  pair  is  another  goad,  differ- 
ing from  the  first  by  projecting  from  a wooden  cone 
that  hangs  beneath  the  cane-pole. 

This  instrument  is  called  the  picano  grande , and  it 
requires  a skilful  hand  in  its  guidance,  in  consequence 
of  its  weight  and  the  constant  oscillatory  motion  when 
the  wagon  is  moving.  The  driver  holds  one  end  in 
his  right  hand,  and,  by  constant  thrusts,  drives  it  into 
the  animals  without  mercy.  By  lifting  the  end  of  the 


PICAN0S  AND  THEIR  USE. 


105 


picano  ^ the  part  outside  the  becket  is  lowered,  and  the 
perpendicular  goad  touches  the  backs  of  the  second 
pair,  while  in  his  left  hand  the  driver  holds  the  picano 
chico  (little  goad),  and  spurs  the  tongue  oxen,  or  those 
nearest  the  wagon,  upon  which  the  severest  labor  falls. 
The  principle  upon  which  the  cattle  are  guided  is  also 
peculiar.  If  the  driver  wishes  the  ox  to  turn  to  the 
left,  the  goad  is  applied  to  that  side,  and  the  animal 
follows  the  direction  pricked  upon  him ; if  to  the 
right,  the  picano  is  applied  to  that  side,  with  a similar 
result.  I have  seen  the  unfortunate  beasts  goaded 
until  the  blood  trickled  from  their  wounds;  but  still 
they  followed  the  instrument,  upon  whichever  side  they 
felt  its  sharp  sting.  With  small  carts,  having  but  one 
pair  of  oxen,  the  driver  sits  upon  the  yoke  and  tongue 
of  the  vehicle,  picano  in  hand,  with  his  legs  coiled  be- 
neath him  a la  Turque. 

Everything  was  in  readiness  for  the  journey,  but  the 
butcher  had  not  arrived  with  the  meat  for  provisions, 
a delay  at  which  the  patron  gave  vent  to  many  a car - 
ramba  of  impatience.  Shortly,  however,  a little,  rick- 
etty,  two-wheeled  cart,  lashed  together  with  strips  of 
hide,  was  driven  into  the  plaza,  and  its  owner  distrib- 
uted the  expected  meat  among  the  different  carts. 
While  he  was  thus  employed,  some  women,  carrying 
a little  tinsel-covered  Santa , passed  around  the  cara- 
van, and  each  peon  devoutly  kissed  the  garments  of 
the  image,  to  insure,  as  I supposed,  a prosperous  journey. 

At  last  the  caravan  commenced  its  march,  and  we 
bade  farewell  to  Rosario  and  to  civilization,  Don  Jose 
the  patron  and  Don  Manuel  the  capatoz  leading  the 
caravan,  on  horseback. 


106 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


First  following  them  were,  creaking  loudly,  fourteen 
clumsy  carts  loaded  with  yerba , sugar,  iron,  and  other 
merchandise.  Next  came  fifteen  or  twenty  spare  oxen, 
as  many  horses,  with  about  a dozen  mules,  driven  by 
an  old  guide,  two  youngsters,  and  the  carpenter  of  the 
troop,  who  also  acted  as  assistant  capatoz.  I walked 
in  advance  of  the  patron , though  he  advised  me  to 
enter  the  cart,  as  walking,  he  said,  was  injurious  to 
the  system. 

Our  course  lay  over  a level  country  covered  with 
fine  grass,  which,  having  been  pastured  by  cattle,  was 
very  short.  After  journeying  four  miles,  we  came  to 
a halt ; the  oxen  were  unlashed,  and  allowed  to  feed 
by  the  roadside,  while  the  men  kindled  a fire  of  this- 
tles, roasted  a strip  of  meat,  and  took  their  gourds  of 
Paraguay  tea. 

The  manner  of  cooking  meat  on  the  pampas  is  worth 
a moment’s  attention.  After  an  animal  has  been  killed, 
the  meat  is  cut  into  pieces,  without  any  regard  to  anat- 
omy, or  to  the  butcher’s  “regular  cuts,”  and  an  iron 
spit  called  the  asador  is  run  longitudinally  through 
each  strip.  The  asador  is  stuck  into  the  ground  close 
by  the  fire,  and,  being  carefully  watched,  the  steak  is 
gradually  cooked  in  a manner  that  would  gain  no  dis- 
credit in  a well-regulated  kitchen.  The  result  of  this 
method  of  cooking  is  that  none  of  the  juices  of  the 
meat  are  lost. 

When  our  asadors  were  sufficiently  roasted,  the 
chief  took  them  from  the  fire,  and,  driving  the  point 
of  the  spit  into  the  ground,  invited  me,  with  a pro- 
found salaam,  to  commence  my  repast.  Cutting  a 
small  piece  from  the  roasted  strip,  and  taking  it  upon 


GAUCHO  ETIQUETTE. 


107 


the  point  of  my  knife,  I put  it,  as  a matter  of  course, 
into  my  mouth.  At  this  the  group  around  me  broke 
into  a boisterous  laugh,  and  one  swarthy  fellow  volun- 
teered his  services  in  teaching  me  how  to  eat  a la  gau - 
cho.  Drawing  from  his  belt  that  inseparable  compan- 
ion which  the  gaucho  never  parts  with  — a long  knife 
— the  fellow  cut  off  a strip  of  meat,  and,  holding  one 
end  with  his  fingers,  dropped  the  other  into  his  mouth ; 
then  followed  a quick  upward  stroke  with  the  knife,  so 
close  to  his  lips  that  I involuntarily  started,  severing 
the  meat,  and  leaving  a huge  piece  between  his  teeth. 
This  feat  was  accomplished  so  rapidly  that  it  aston- 
ished me;  but  as  I found  that  it  was  the  universal 
custom  among  the  peons,  I attempted  to  imitate  them. 
But  on  the  first  trial  the  blade  of  my  knife  came  in 
contact  with  the  end  of  my  nose,  cutting  it  enough  to 
draw  blood.  At  this  a loud  laugh  went  through  the 
group,  at  the  expense  of  “ Bostron  the  gringo,”  which 
name  they  insisted  upon  calling  me,  notwithstanding 
my  efforts  to  -show  that  Boston,  and  not  Bostron,  was 
my  native  city. 

After  the  usual  siesta , we  continued  our  journey. 
Nothing  of  importance  occurred  until  sunset,  when, 
as  I glanced  across  the  plain,  it  seemed  to  at  once  be- 
come endowed  with  life.  As  the  sun  sank  below  the 
horizon,  the  owners  of  innumerable  little  burrows, 
which  I had  noticed  through  the  greater  part  of  the 
afternoon  all  over  the  plains,  came  out  of  the  holes  in 
such  numbers  as  to  astonish  the  uninitiated.  As  I 
watched  one  of  the  holes,  I saw  first  a little  round 
head,  enlivened  by  a pair  of  black,  twinkling  eyes, 
peeping  out ; then  followed  a dusky  body,  and,  finally, 


108 


a Thousand  miles’  walk. 


the  animal,  having  become  satisfied  that  our  intentions 
were  not  unfriendly,  sat  by  his  doorway  with  the  great- 
est nonchalance  imaginable ; but  in  a moment,  after 
observing  us  curiously,  he  scampered  off  to  join  the 
hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  that  were  playing  about 
in  the  grass  around  us. 

Sometimes  we  saw  an  old  female  trotting  along  with 
four  or  five  young  ones  on  a visit  to  a neighbor ; and 
frequently  we  saw  some  of  these  reunions , in  which, 
while  the  old  people  were  exchanging  compliments, 
the  juvenile  members  of  the  family  chased  each  other 
merrily  about  the  mounds. 

These  animals,  which  bore  some  resemblance  to  the 
marmots,  were  called  by  the  natives  bizcacha.  The 
species  is  the  Lagostomus  trichodactylus  of  natural- 
ists. Its  habits  are  similar  to  those  of  the  proper 
marmots ; in  size  it  exceeds  the  opossum  of  North 
America. 

About  the  entrance  of  the  burrows  I noticed  that  a 
quantity  of  rubbish  is  usually  collected,  such  as  the 
bones  of  deceased  relatives  and  of  other  animals, 
mixed  with  thistles,  roots,  &c.  These  bizcachas  are 
found  all  over  the  pampas,  as  far  south  as  the  confines 
of  Patagonia,  beyond  which,  however,  they  have  never 
been  observed. 

The  singular  habit  of  collecting  all  compact  sub- 
stances about  their  burrows  seems  peculiar  to  these 
animals.  A traveller’s  watch,  which  had  been  lost, 
was  found  at  the  entrance  to  one  of  their  domiciles, 
the  animals  having  dragged  it  from  the  camp  near  by. 

Darwin  says  the  bizcacha  is  found  as  far  north  as 
30°  south  latitude,  and  “abounds  even  to  Mendoza, 
and  is  there  replaced  by  an  Alpine  species.” 


BIZCACHAS. 


109 


It  is  not  an  inhabitant  of  the  Banda  Oriental,  east 
of  the  Uruguay  River. 

The  following  accounts  of  North  American  species 
will  be  interesting  to  the  reader,  since  they  give  a 
good  idea  of  the  habits  of  nearly  allied  species.  Au- 
dubon and  Bachman,  in  their  Quadrupeds  of  North 
America,  say  of  the  prairie  dog,  “ This  noisy  spermo- 
phile,  or  marmot,  is  found  in  numbers,  sometimes  hun- 
dreds, of  families  together,  living  in  burrows  on  the 
prairies ; and  their  galleries  are  so  extensive  as  to 
render  riding  among  them  quite  unsafe  in  many  places. 
Their  habitations  are  generally  called  dog  towns,  or 
villages,  by  the  Indians  and  trappers,  and  are  described 
as  being  intersected  by  streets  (pathways)  for  their 
accommodation,  and  a degree  of  neatness  and  cleanli- 
ness is  preserved.  These  villages  or  communities  are, 
however,  sometimes  infested  with  rattlesnakes  and 
other  reptiles  which  feed  upon  these  animals.  The 
burrowing  owl  ( Surnia  cunicularia ) is  also  found 
among  them.  Occasionally  these  marmots  stood  quite 
erect,  and  watched  our  movements,  and  then  leaped 
into  the  air,  all  the  time  keeping  an  eye  on  us.  Now 
and  then,  one  of  them,  after  coming  out  of  his  hole, 
issued  a long  and  somewhat  whistling  note,  perhaps  a 
call  or  invitation  to  his  neighbors,  as  several  came  out 
in  a few  moments.  They  are,  as  we  think,  more  in  the 
habit  of  feeding  by  night  than  in  the  daytime.” 

Lieutenant  Abert,  who  observed  the  prairie  dog  in 
New  Mexico,  says  it  does  not  hibernate,  “but  is  out 
all  winter,  as  lively  and  as  pert  as  on  any  summer 
day.”  Another  observer  states  that  it  “closes  accu- 
rately the  mouth  of  its  furrow,  and  constructs  at  the 


110 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


bottom  of  it  a neat  globular  cell  of  fine  dry  grass, 
having  an  aperture  at  the  top  sufficiently  large  to  ad- 
mit a finger,  and  so  compactly  put  together  that  it 
might  almost  be  rolled  along  the  ground,  unin- 
jured.” 

Perhaps  different  winter  temperatures  in  different 
localities  may  govern  the  habit  of  hibernation. 

The  following  sketch,  from  Kendall’s  narrative  of 
the  Texan  expedition  to  Santa  Fe,  is  so  interesting 
that  I present  it  to  the  reader : — 

“We  sat  down  upon  a bank,  under  the  shade  of  a 
mesquit,  and  leisurely  surveyed  the  scene  before  us. 
Our  approach  had  driven  every  one  to  his  home  in  our 
immediate  vicinity,  but  at  the  distance  of  some  hun- 
dred yards  the  small  mound  of  earth  in  front  of  each 
burrow  was  occupied  by  a prairie  dog,  sitting  erect  on 
his  hinder  legs,  and  coolly  looking  about  for  the  cause 
of  the  recent  commotion.  Every  now  and  then,  some 
citizen,  more  adventurous  than  his  neighbor,  would 
leave  his  lodgings,  on  a flying  visit  to  a friend,  appar- 
ently exchange  a few  words,  and  then  scamper  back  as 
fast  as  his  legs  would  carry  him.  By  and  by,  as  we 
kept  perfectly  still,  some  of  our  near  neighbors  were 
seen  cautiously  poking  their  heads  from  out  their  holes, 
looking  craftily,  and  at  the  same  time  inquisitively, 
about  them.  Gradually  a citizen  would  emerge  from 
the  entrance  of  his  domicile,  come  out  upon  his  obser- 
vatory, peek  his  head  cunningly,  and  then  commence 
yelping,  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  a young  puppy, 
a quick  jerk  of  the  tail  accompanying  each  yelp.  It  is 
this  short  bark  alone  that  has  given  them  the  name  of 
dogs,  as  they  bear  no  more  resemblance  to  that  ani- 


BIZCACHAS. 


Ill 


mal,  either  in  appearance,  action,  or  manner  of  living, 
than  they  do  to  the  hyena. 

“ Prairie  dogs  are  a wild,  frolicsome,  madcap  set  of 
fellows  when  undisturbed,  uneasy,  and  ever  on  the 
move,  and  appear  to  take  especial  delight  in  chatter- 
ing away  the  time,  and  visiting  from  hole  to  hole  to 
gossip  and  talk  over  each  other’s  affairs ; at  least,  so 
their  actions  would  indicate.  When  they  find  a good 
location  for  a village,  and  there  is  no  water  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  old  hunters  say  they  dig  a well  to 
supply  the  wants  of  the  community.  On  several  occa- 
sions I crept  close  to  their  villages  without  being  ob- 
served, to  watch  their  movements.  Directly  in  the 
centre  of  one  of  them  I noticed  a very  large  dog, 
which,  by  his  actions,  and  those  of  his  neighbors,  seemed 
the  chief  or  big  dog  of  the  village.  For  at  least  an  hour 
I watched  this  village ; during  this  time  the  large  dog 
received  at  least  a dozen  visits  from  his  fellow-dogs, 
who  would  stop  and  chat  with  him  a few  minutes,  and 
then  run  off  to  their  holes.  All  this  while  he  never 
left  his  seat  at  the  entrance  to  his  home,  and  I thought 
that  I could  perceive  a gravity  in  his  deportment  not 
discernible  in  those  by  whom  he  was  surrounded.  Far 
is  it  from  me  to  say  that  the  visits  he  received  were 
upon  business,  or  had  anything  to  do  with  the  local 
government  of  the  village,  but  it  certainly  appeared  so.” 

The  bizcacha  does  not  live  alone,  for  in  each  burrow 
I found  a pair  of  small  owls,  of  the  species  known  by 
the  name  of  the  “ Burrowing  Owl  of  South  America  ” 
(. Athene  cunicularia , Molina).  As  these  birds  are 
somewhat  peculiar  in  their  habits,  and  some  few  errors 
have  crept  into  the  writings  of  various  authors  regard- 


112 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


ing  them,  I will,  for  the  information  of  those  interested, 
present  the  following  sketch  of  their  habits,  the  result 
of  observations  which  I made  during  my  long  journey. 

I first  met  with  this  owl  on  the  banks  of  the  River 
San  Juan,  in  the  Banda  Oriental,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  west  of  Montevideo,  where  a few  pairs 
were  observed  devouring  mice  and  insects  during  the 
daytime.  From  the  river,  travelling  westward  thirty 
miles,  I did  not  meet  a single  individual,  but  after 
crossing  the  Las  Yacas,  and  coming  upon  a sandy 
waste  covered  with  scattered  trees  aDd  low  bushes,  I 
again  met  with  several. 

Upon  the  pampas  of  the  Argentine  Republic  they 
are  found  in  great  numbers,  from  a few  miles  west  of 
Rosario,  on  the  .Parana,  latitude  32°  56'  south,  to 
the  vicinity  of  San  Luis,  where  the  pampas  end,  and  a 
travesia  or  saline  desert  commences. 

On  these  immense  plains  of  grass  it  lives  in  company 
with  the  bizcacha.  The  habits  of  this  bird  are  said  to 
be  the  same  as  those  of  the  species  that  inhabits  the 
holes  of  the  marmots  upon  the  prairies  of  western 
North  America.  But  this  is  not  strictly  correct,  for 
one  writer  says  of  the  northern  species,  “ we  have  no 
evidence  that  the  owl  and  marmot  habitually  resort  to 
one  burrow  ; ” and  Say  remarks  that  “ they  were  either 
common,  though  unfriendly,  residents  of  the  same  habi- 
tation, or  that  our  owl  was  the  sole  occupant  of  a 
burrow  acquired  by  the  right  of  conquest.”  In  this 
respect  they  differ  from  their  South  American  rela- 
tives, who  live  in  perfect  harmony  with  the  bizcacha , 
and  during  the  day,  while  the  latter  is  sleeping,  a pair 
of  these  birds  stand  a few  inches  within  the  main 


BURROWING  OWLS. 


113 


entrance  of  the  burrow,  and  at  the  first  strange  sound, 
be  it  near  or  distant,  they  leave  their  station,  and  re- 
main outside  the  hole,  or  upon  the  mound  which  forms 
the  roof  of  the  domicile.  When  man  approaches,  both 
birds  mount  above  him  in  the  air,  and  keep  uttering 
their  alarm  note,  with  irides  dilated,  until  he  passes, 
when  they  quietly  settle  down  in  the  grass,  or  return 
to  their  former  place. 

While  on  the  pampas,  I did  not  observe  these  birds 
taking  prey  during  the  daytime,  but  at  sunset  the 
bizcachas  and  owls  leave  their  holes,  and  search  for 
food,  the  young  of  the  former  playing  about  the  birds 
as  they  alighted  near  them.  They  do  not  associate  in 
companies,  there  being  but  one  pair  to  each  hole,  and 
at  night  do  not  stray  far  from  their  homes. 

In  describing  the  North  American  burrowing  owl,  a 
writer  says  that  the  species  “ suddenly  disappears  in 
the  early  part  of  August,”  and  that  “the  species  is 
strictly  diurnal.” 

The  Athene  cunicularia  has  not  these  habits.  It 
does  not  disappear  during  any  part  of  the  year,  and  it 
is  both  nocturnal  and  diurnal,  for  though  I did  not 
observe  it  preying  by  day  on  the  pampas,  I noticed 
that  it  fed  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night  on  the 
north  shore  of  the  Plata,  in  the  Banda  Oriental. 

At  longitude  66°  west  our  caravan  struck  the  great 
saline  desert  that  stretches  to  the  Andes,  and  dur- 
ing fourteen  days’  travel  on  foot  I did  not  see  a 
dozen  of  these  birds;  but  while  residing  outside  the 
town  of  San  Juan,  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Andes,  I 
had  an  opportunity  to  watch  their  habits  in  a locality 
differing  materially  from  the  pampas. 

8 


114 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


The  months  of  September  and  October  are  the  con- 
jugal ones.  During  the  middle  of  the  former  month 
I obtained  a male  bird  with  a broken  wing.  It  lived 
in  confinement  two  days,  refusing  to  eat,  and  died  from 
the  effects  of  the  wound.  A few  days  later  a boy 
brought  me  a female  owl,  with  five  eggs,  that  had  been 
taken  from  her  nest,  five  feet  from  the  mouth  of  a 
burrow  that  wound  among  the  roots  of  a tree. 

She  was  fierce  in  her  cage,  and  fought  with  wings 
and  beak,  uttering  all  the  while  a shrill,  prolonged 
note,  resembling  the  sound  produced  by  drawing  a 
file  across  the  teeth  of  a saw.  I supplied  her  with 
eleven  full-grown  mice,  which  were  devoured  during 
the  first  thirty-six  hours  of  confinement. 

I endeavored  to  ascertain  if  this  species  burrows  its 
own  habitation,  but  my  observations  of  eight  months 
failed  to  impress  me  with  the  belief  that  it  does.  I 
have  conversed  with  intelligent  persons  who  have  been 
familiar  with  their  habits,  and  never  did  I meet  one 
that  believed  this  bird  to  be  its  own  workman.  It 
places  a small  nest  of  feathers  at  the  end  of  some  oc- 
cupied or  deserted  burrow,  as  necessity  demands,  in 
which  are  deposited  from  two  to  five  white  eggs,  which 
are  nearly  spherical  in  form,  and  are  a little  larger  than 
the  eggs  of  the  domestic  pigeon. 

In  the  Banda  Oriental,  where  the  country  is  as  fine, 
and  the  favorite  food  of  the  owl  more  plentifully  dis- 
tributed than  upon  the  pampas,  this  bird  is  not  com- 
mon in  comparison  with  the  numbers  found  in  the 
latter  locality.  The  reason  is  obvious.  The  bizcacha 
does  not  exist  in  the  Banda  Oriental,  and  consequent- 
ly these  birds  have  a poor  chance  for  finding  habi- 
tations. 


FIRST  NIGHT  WITH  THE  CARAVAN. 


115 


On  the  pampas,  where  thousands  upon  thousands  of 
bizcachas  undermine  the  soil,  there,  in  their  true  local- 
ity, the  traveller  finds  thousands  of  owls.  Again,  along 
the  bases  of  the  Andes,  where  the  bizcacha  is  rarely 
met  with,  we  find  only  a few  pairs.  Does  the  hole, 
from  which  my  bird  was  taken,  appear  to  be  the  work 
of  a bird  or  quadruped?  The  several  works  that  I 
have  been  able  to  consult  do  not,  in  one  instance,  give 
personal  observations  relative  to  the  burrowing  pro- 
pensities of  this  owl ; from  which  fact,  it  will  be  in- 
ferred that  it  never  has  been  caught  in  the  act  of 
burrowing. 

We  continued  our  journey  while  the  sun  left  in  the 
western  heavens  beautiful  clouds  of  purple  and  gray  as 
souvenirs  of  his  company  through  the  bright,  warm 
day. 

Around  us  on  the  plains  were  many  animals  in 
droves  and  herds,  all  preparing  for  the  night.  Troops 
of  wild  colts  galloped  homeward  past  us  at  the  heels 
of  their  anxious  mothers,  who  occasionally  halted  as 
if  to  dispute  our  right  of  passage  through  their  terri- 
tory. Darkness  now  set  in,  and  soon  the  caravan  halted 
for  the  night.  I made  my  bed  upon  a raw  hide,  spread 
upon  the  top  of  the  cargo  in  the  cart,  and  was  soon 
fast  asleep  ; but  I was  shortly  awakened  by  Don 
Facundo,  who  climbed  into  the  cart,  coughing  loudly, 
and  saying,  by  dumb  show,  pointing  towards  the  south- 
west, that  a pampero  had  commenced  blowing.  The 
wind,  wrhich  was  accompanied  by  rain  and  hail,  vio- 
lently shook  the  old  cart,  and  whistled  dolefully  through 
its  reed-covered  sides.  The  don’s  cough  had  increased 
alarmingly,  and  he  shivered  with  cold.  “ Companero 


116 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


he  continually  called  out,  giving  me  a poke  to  signify 
something  that  his  ignorance  of  the  Spanish  language 
would  not  allow  him  to  express  more  intelligibly,  for 
he  spoke,  only  the  tongue  of  his  native  province  — the 
Quichua . I at  last  handed  him  my  overcoat  — an  act 
of  generosity  that  I afterwards  regretted,  for,  though  I 
applied  several  times  for  its  restoration  during  the 
journey,  he  would  not  give  it  up,  but  ate,  slept,  and 
worked  in  it  until  we  had  crossed  the  country,  and  it 
was  no  longer  serviceable. 


RIDING  A RAM. 


117 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

LIFE  ON  THE  PAMPAS  — CONTINUED. 

THE  night  passed  drearily  away,  and  glad  enough 
was  I when  day  dawned,  and  the  caravan  was 
prepared  to  start. 

Before  we  began  to  move,  I retired  to  my  cart,  and 
changed  my  clothes,  appearing  before  my  companions 
in  the  unconfined  and  comfortable  garb  of  a sailor. 

The  moment  the  peons,  who  were  clustered  around 
the  fire,  beheld  me,  they  shouted  to  each  other  “ Monte - 
nero /”  a word  which  at  that  time  I did  not  comprehend, 
but  which,  as  I learned  some  months  later,  was  the 
name  of  a particular  class  of  bandits,  who,  about  1817, 
under  the  leadership  of  Artizas,  filled  the  republic  with 
consternation.  Probably  my  sailor’s  dress  resembled 
that  of  the  robbers. 

As  the  heavy  mist  rolled  off  the  pampas,  we  discerned 
two  shepherds  driving  their  flocks  to  another  pasture ; 
and,  as  there  was  no  hut  in  sight,  they  had  prob- 
ably passed  the  night  sleeping  upon  their  saddles,  a 
common  custom  of  the  herdsmen.  As  a specimen  of 
his  skill,  the  younger  of  the  two  spurred  his  horse  after 
a ram,  the  patriarch  of  the  flock,  and,  as  he  drew  near 
it,  swung  the  lasso  a few  times  around  his  head,  and 
the  fatal  noose  fell  over  the  neck  of  the  animal. 


118 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


Dismounting  from  his  horse,  the  gaucho  jumped  upon 
the  ram,  which  began  to  run  for  dear  life.  As  they 
scampered  over  the  plain,  I could  plainly  see  pieces  of 
wool  flying  from  the  animal’s  fleecy  sides,  as  the  rider 
plied  his  sharp,  heavy  spurs. 

But  rams  were  evidently  not  created  for  saddle-beasts, 
for  the  animal  stumbled  in  his  flight,  upsetting,  in  a 
most  ludicrous  manner,  his  rider,  who  sprawled  upon 
the  turf. 

Our  caravan  was  now  in  motion.  As  we  proceeded 
on  our  course,  the  pampa  gradually  became  more  undu- 
lating, and  was  covered  with  a coarser  herbage,  shooting 
up  in  clumps  to  the  height  of  a foot  or  more. 

Soon  after  sunrise  we  met  a party  of  eight  horsemen 
from  Mendoza,  one  of  whom  was  armed  with  a spear, 
which  was  ornamented  with  a flag.  About  ten  o’clock 
we  passed  a miserable  estancia  house,  built  of  burnt 
bricks ; we  halted  near  it  for  the  purpose  of  greasing  the 
wheels  of  the  carts.  This  was  attended  to  by  the  cap- 
atoz.  lie  first  cut  into  thin  slices  a pound  of  white 
native  soap,  and,  after  pouring  hot  water  upon  it,  added 
a little  salt,  when  he  beat  the  whole  together  with  a 
bunch  of  reeds  drawn  from  the  sides  of  the  cart.  While 
stirring  this  mixture,  he  would  not  permit  me  to  look 
into  the  pail,  but,  turning  his  back  on  me,  leaned  over 
the  mixture,  muttering  to  himself,  and  making  crosses 
over  it,  acting  as  if  afraid  that  I would  discover  the 
recipe  for  the  wheel-grease. 

Before  noon  the  caravan  was  again  in  motion.  Three 
half-starved  dogs  that  accompanied  us  gave  chase  to 
several  deer  that  appeared  in  sight,  but  they  were  un- 
able to  approach  them.  These  deer  ( Cervus  campestris ) 


A MIRAGE. 


119 


are  very  common  on  the  pampas.  They  have  one  habit 
which  is  common  to  the  antelopes  of  North  American 
prairies.  When  a person  approaches  them,  they  seem 
anxious  to  make  his  acquaintance,  drawing  near,  and 
scrutinizing  him  with  much  curiosity.  They  are  a 
small  species,  are  of  a yellowish-brown  color  on  the 
upper  parts,  and  white  beneath  the  body.  They  are 
hunted  by  the  gauchos  in  parties,  who  pursue  and  cap- 
ture them  with  the  boliadores. 

A species  of  parrot  ( Psittacus  patagonus ) was  ob- 
served flying  in  large  flocks  northward.  At  another 
time,  I observed  one  or  two  very  small  species,  of  a 
green  color,  with  grayish-white  breasts.  I have  seen 
the  same  species  in  the  Banda  Oriental,  flying  in  flocks 
of  considerable  size. 

• The  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  gave  great  effect  to 
the  mirages  that  we  constantly  beheld  around  us. 
Twice  we  seemed  to  see  large  lakes  far  in  advance  of 
our  caravan,  but  they  vanished  utterly  upon  our  mov- 
ing nearer  them. 

On  our  right,  in  the  distance,  the  mirage  so  much 
resembled  the  ocean,  that  our  carpenter,  who  had  been 
in  Buenos  Ayres,  pointed  to  it,  exclaiming,  “El  mar  / ” 
(the  sea). 

Since  leaving  Rosario,  we  had  met,  along  the  road, 
flocks  of  small  white  gulls,  feeding  on  carrion ; but  they, 
during  this  day’s  march,  became  more  scarce,  and  soon 
disappeared  entirely,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  them  on 
the  pampas.  The  little  ponds  of  water  before  noticed 
were  now  rarely  encountered,  and  it  became  necessary, 
therefore,  to  lay  in  a stock  before  going  farther.  Each 
cart  was  supplied  with  a long  earthen  jar,  lashed  on 


120 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


behind,  which  held  five  or  six  gallons ; these  jars  were 
filled;  and  these,  with  one  or  two  demijohns  stowed 
inside,  comprised  our  water  supply,  — enough  to  last 
several  days. 

About  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  a long,  dark 
cloud  of  dust  appeared  above  the  horizon  in  advance 
of  our  troop,  and  the  patron , beside  whose  horse  I was 
walking,  informed  me  that  it  was4  “ una  tropa  de  Men- 
doza? In  the  course  of  the  next  half  hour  it  made  its 
appearance  in  the  road  before  us. 

The  troop  presented  a picturesque  appearance  as  it 
slowly  toiled  along  in  divisions  of  ten  carts  each.  The 
procession  was  headed  by  four  or  five  asses,  with  pack- 
saddles  and  loads,  and  by  a number  of  mules  without 
luggage,  driven  by  gauchos.  After  these  followed  the 
two  divisions  of  carts,  filled  to  such  a degree  with  hides 
that  their  drivers  were  entirely  hidden  by  them.  This 
troop  carried,  as  usual,  a stock  of  firewood,  consisting 
of  heavy  branches  and  gnarled  stumps,  which  were 
lashed  to  the  roofs  of  the  carts.  The  relays  consisted 
of  thirty  oxen  and  a few  old  cows,  which  were  also 
under  the  guidance  of  a crew  of  almost  savage  gauchos. 
At  sunset  we  passed  a little  knoll,  conspicuous  in  the 
midst  of  the  vast  plain,  surmounted  by  a small  dwell- 
ing ; beyond  it  lay  an  extensive  plantana  (swamp),  that 
we  were  obliged  to  traverse,  although  the  labor  it  cost 
us  was  not  inconsiderable.  Several  yokes  of  oxen  were 
detached  from  the  after  carts,  and  connected  with  those 
of  the  leading  wagons,  when,  with  a vast  amount  of 
uproar  and  merciless  goading,  each  cart  was  drawn,  in 
turn,  through  the  mire. 

We  encamped  beyond  the  plantana. , and  supped 


GAUCHO  ETIQUETTE  AGAIN. 


121 


upon  sliced  pumpkins,  boiled  with  bits  of  meat,  and  sea- 
soned with  salt.  I would  remark  here  that  the  gauchos 
never  use  salt  with  roasted  meat,  but  frequently  sprinkle 
it  into  a stew,  if  the  heterogeneous  messes  which  they 
compound  and  boil  in  iron  pots  are  worthy  of  that  title. 

Our  meal  was  served  in  genuine  pamj3a  fashion ; one 
iron  spoon  and  two  cow’s  horns,  split  in  halves,  were 
passed  around  the  group,  the  members  of  which  squatted 
upon  their  haunches,  and  freely  helped  themselves  from 
the  kettle. 

Even  in  this  most  uncivilized  form  of  satisfying  hun- 
ger there  is  a peculiar  etiquette,  which  the  most  lowly 
peon  invariably  observes.  Each  member  of  the  com- 
pany in  turn  dips  his  spoon,  or  horn,  into  the  centre 
of  the  stew,  and  draws  it  in  a direct  line  towards  him, 
never  allowing  it  to  deviate  to  the  right  or  the  left. 

By  observing  this  rule,  each  person  eats  without  in- 
terfering with  his  neighbor.  Being  ignorant  of  this 
custom,  I dipped  my  horn  into  the  mess  at  random, 
and  fished  about  in  it  for  some  of  the  nice  bits.  My 
companions  regarded  this  horrid  breach  of  politeness 
with  scowds  of  impatience;  they  declared,  with  some 
warmth,  to  the  capatoz  that  gringos  did  not  know  how 
to  eat,  and,  “ as  they  lived  upon  dogs  in  their  own  dis- 
tant country,  they  come  to  the  great  Argentine  Repub- 
lic to  get  food  and  grow  fat  on  the  gauchos.”  I apolo- 
gized as  well  as  I could,  and  endeavored,  during  the 
remainder  of  the  meal,  to  eat  according  to  gaucho  eti- 
quette. 

As  night  came  on,  a brilliant  scene  was  developed 
before  us.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  we  beheld 
the  ruddy  glow  of  a distant  conflagration  of  the  pampa 


122 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


herbage.  Fortunately  it  did  not  approach  us,  but 
after  giving  us  a view  of  one  of  the  most  sublime  and 
magnificent  sights  in  nature,  it  faded  at  last  away  into 
the  south. 

During  the  night  I suffered  much  from  the  cold. 

I was  awakened  on  the  following  morning  (Sunday) 
by  my  peon,  who  gave  me  to  understand,  by  gestures, 
that  the  asado  was  prepared.  As  I joined  the  com- 
pany at  the  fire,  the  patron  approached  us  with  a pon- 
cho filled  with  watermelons,  which  he  had  purchased 
at  the  estancia  house  on  the  mound ; of  these  we  ate 
heartily,  and  they  were  delicious. 

As  the  pieces  of  rind  fell  to  the  ground,  they  were 
eagerly  devoured  by  the  dogs,  and  by  two  little  chil- 
dren that  accompanied  the  troop.  I often  pitied  these 
little  neglected  creatures,  and  shared  with  them  my 
fare.  I gave  them  a portion  of  my  share  of  the  mel- 
ons, and  their  gratitude  was  warm  and  demonstrative : 
they  were  going  to  Mendoza  with  their  mother,  the 
wife  of  one  of  the  drivers. 

This  was  the  first  Sunday  spent  on  the  road;  and  as 
there  was  a plenty  of  thistles  for  our  fire,  and  good 
grass  for  the  cattle,  the  day  was  passed  without  leav- 
ing camp,  the  gauchos  amusing  themselves  with  a pack 
of  cards. 

I had  with  me  an  illustrated  Testament.  The  peons, 
after  gazing  intently  upon  a picture  of  the  crucifixion, 
declared  that  I was  a Cristiano , and  invited  me  to  play 
cards  with  them. 

During  the  next  day  we  saw  a plenty  of  wire-grass, 
and  at  least  thirty  deer  grazed  within  a mile  of  the 
wagons.  No  cattle  were  to  be  seen.  The  wind,  which 


A MELANCHOLY  INCIDENT. 


128 


blew  from  the  north-east,  was  very  warm.  Our  course 
was  west. 

In  a halt  which  we  made  during  the  day’s  travel,  I 
turned  my  blanket  into  a poncho,  by  cutting  a hole 
in  the  middle,  and  thrusting  my  head  through  the  aper- 
ture. When  the  gauchos  saw  my  new  garment,  they 
shouted  in  admiration;  and  one  or  two,  who  could 
speak  a little  Spanish,  exclaimed,  “ Gaucho,  Bostron  ! ” 

At  dark  we  camped  near  a corral,  or  cattle-yard, 
formed  of  the  tunas , a species  of  wild  cactus.  At  sup- 
per we  ate  our  last  morsel  of  meat  brought  from  Rosa- 
rio ; the  bones  were  heated  upon  the  fire,  then  broken, 
and  the  marrow  greedily  eaten  by  the  men. 

Throughout  the  night  the  mosquitos  and  flies  tor- 
mented me,  until  I was  obliged  to  roll  my  head  in  a 
blanket. 

At  dawn  the  troop  set  out,  in  the  midst  of  a heavy 
shower,  without  eating,  and  kept  on  until  Don  Jose 
commanded  a halt,  in  order  to  kill  an  old  cow  which 
had  been  purchased  at  an  estancia  the  day  before. 

We  camped  near  a collection  of  mud-huts,  surrounded 
by  a gigantic  growth  of  cactus,  and  called  Guardia  de 
la  Esquina.  It  was  the  first  place  we  had  met  that  ap- 
proached the  dignity  of  a village ; but  its  qualifications 
for  that  titje  were  extremely  limited. 

Half  a mile  south  of  the  Esquina  a low  brick  struc- 
ture, resembling  in  form  two  sugar-boxes,  — one  set  on 
its  side,  and  the  other  placed  perpendicularly  against 
it,  — stood  alone  on  the  plain.  A melancholy  story  is 
connected  with  this  structure. 

Don  B.,  a rich  estanciero , owned  many  miles  of  the 
surrounding  country ; and  the  report  that  he  had  much 


124 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


money  buried  in  the  earth  about  his  brick  casa  excited 
the  cupidity  of  the  Indians.  They  came  from  the  south 
in  a large  party,  ransacked  the  place,  and  carried  away 
the  hoarded  treasure,  after  cutting  the  throats  of  the 
don,  his  child,  and  sixteen  peons,  all  of  whom  were 
afterwards  buried  in  a common  grave. 

While  several  of  the  men  were  slaughtering  the 
cow,  the  carpenter,  with  two  or  three  others  of  the 
troop,  guided  by  a man  sent  from  the  Esquina , visited 
the  hole  in  which  the  bodies  lay.  The  earth  had  fallen 
in  as  the  bodies  had  undergone  decomposition,  for  they 
had  been  buried  in  the  usual  manner  of  the  pampas, 
without  any  other  covering  than  the  clothes  worn  at 
the  time  of  death.  On  reaching  the  spot,  the  gaucho 
from  the  town  conversed  at  length  with  our  men ; but 
the  substance  of  his  conversation  was  unintelligible  to 
me.  The  carpenter  threw  oif  his  poncho,  and  com- 
menced digging  in  good  earnest,  with  a heavy  hoe, 
which  he  had  brought  from  the  carts. 

Two  little  crosses  marked  the  spot  where  father  and 
child  were  laid.  As  his  implement  sank  deep  into  the 
earth,  a dull,  crushing  sound  announced  that  it  had 
buried  itself  in  the  skull  of  a man,  and  the  digger 
drew  forth  the  tool  with  a human  head,  greatly  decom- 
posed, upon  it.  The  hoe  had  entered  between  the  jaws. 
At  the  sight  a sickening  sensation  came  over  me ; but 
the  Santiguenos , who  had  left  their  work,  and  were 
grouped  around  the  grave,  laughed  at  my  sensations, 
and  scraped  away  the  matted  hair  from  the  ghastly 
head,  which  was  still  red  with  blood,  with  their  knives, 
which  they  returned  to  their  sheaths  without  cleaning. 
It  was  a disgusting  picture — the  natives,  with  their 


FATE  OF  AN  ENGLISH  PARTY. 


125 


bare  legs  and  breasts  besmeared  with  the  blood  of  the 
animal  they  had  just  butchered,  passing  the  head  from 
hand  to  hand,  and  joking  at  a calamity  that  should 
have  excited  their  pity  and  commiseration. 

The  head  of  the  child  was  also  exhumed,  and  the 
two  were  placed  in  a bag  to  be  taken  to  Mendoza, 
where  the  priests  could  pray  over  them ; for  so  long  as 
they  remained  uninterred  in  the  panteon  (consecrated 
burying-ground),  the  souls  that  once  animated  them 
would  be  kept  from  the  land  of  bliss. 

The  attack  by  the  Indians  had  occurred  only  a short 
time  before  our  visit,  and  the  prints  of  their  horses’ 
hoofs  were  not  obliterated  from  the  spot  where  the 
butchery  was  done. 

Our  caravan  continued  its  course  until  nine  o’clock, 
and  passed  Cabeza  del  Tigre,  a place  well  known  as 
having  been  the  scene  of  a transaction  equally  lamen- 
table with  the  one  just  recorded.  The  facts  were 
related  to  me  by  a gentleman  in  whose  word  I placed 
great  confidence. 

Three  English  merchants  who  had  made  large  for- 
tunes in  California  were  returning  to  England,  and, 
having  their  treasures  with  them,  would  not  risk  a 
passage  around  Cape  Horn,  but  landing  at  Valparaiso, 
crossed  the  Cordillera  to  Mendoza,  and  there,  in  as 
private  a manner  as  possible,  engaged  for  the  passage 
of  their  property  in  a large  troop  of  carts  bound  to 
Rosario. 

Far  better  would  it  have  been,  as  it  proved,  had 
they  trusted  to  the  ocean,  rather  than  to  have  attempt- 
ed crossing,  with  their  treasures,  a country  inhabited 
by  a treacherous  and  lawless  people.  Despite  all  their 


126 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


efforts  to  keep  the  matter  secret,  it  became  known  that 
a party  of  “gringos”  from  the  land  of  gold  were  about 
to  cross  the  pampas.  The  English  character  is  prover- 
bially daring;  the  three  merchants  pursued  their  course, 
regardless  of  the  reports  of  the  natives  and  the  advice 
of  friends.  The  great  travesia  was  crossed,  and  they 
passed  through  the  provinces  of  San  Luis  and  Cordova 
in  safety;  but  when  they  reached  the  vicinity  of  Ca- 
beza  del  Tigre,  several  hundred  Indians,  mounted  on 
horseback,  and  armed  with  spears,  met  them  on  the 
road  and  offered  battle. 

The  patron  ordered  the  carts  to  be  formed  into  a 
square,  and  the  peons  got  within  its  protection.  The 
three  white  men  and  the  patron  and  capatoz  fought 
desperately.  The  Englishmen  were  armed  with  double- 
barrelled  guns,  and  for  a time  kept  the  enemy  at  bay ; 
one  of  them  shot  a cacique  (chief),  and  this  for  a time 
kept  the  tide  of  battle  in  their  favor. 

At  that  period,  Cabeza  del  Tigre  was  a military  fort ; 
the  report  of  the  guns  aroused  the  soldiers,  but  for  a 
time  they  were  undecided  how  to  act,  through  fear  of 
the  savages.  At  a moment  when  a vigorous  attack  by 
all  the  peons  would  have  decided  the  battle,  and  some 
soldiers  were  even  seen  in  the  distance,  galloping  to- 
wards the  spot,  the  Indians,  with  a desperate  effort, 
succeeded  in  despatching  the  Englishmen,  secured 
their  treasure,  and,  before  the  small  military  force 
arrived,  hurried  away  beyond  their  reach. 

The  amount  of  money  carried  off  by  the  Indians 
was  reported  to  have  been  many  thousand  doubloons. 
Though  this  sum  seems  large,  the  amount  taken  must 
have  been  considerable,  for  my  informant  said  that, 


REPORTS  OF  INDIAN  MURDERS. 


127 


for  several  weeks  after  the  event  had  transpired,  Rio 
Quarto  and  El  Moro  were  visited  by  parties  of  In- 
dians, who  were  readily  admitted  as  peaceful  visitors, 
their  purpose  being  to  exchange  gold  onzas  for  silver, 
as  they  obtained  more  in  bulk  of  the  latter  metal  by 
the  transaction.  The  silver  coin  was  manufactured  into 
rings  and  other  trinkets.  Those  intended  for  the  ears 
were  several  inches  in  diameter,  and  so  heavy  that 
they  required  to  be  supported  by  fastenings  to  the 
hair  of  the  head. 

However  lightly  the  peons  regarded  Indian  murders 
at  the  Esquina , their  faces  assumed  a very  different 
expression  from  that  of  mirth,  when,  during  the  next 
day,  a troop  of  mules  from  the  interior  passed  us,  and 
the  patron  informed  our  company  that  the  savages 
had  cut  the  throats  of  eleven  soldiers  not  far  from  the 
very  road  that  we  were  on.  Their  boisterous  mirth 
was  over;  and  during  the  several  succeeding  days  I 
do  not  remember  of  having  heard  a single  song,  or 
a light  word,  in  the  company.  They  all  looked 
dubious  enough ; one  or  two  tried  to  amuse  them- 
selves by  drawing  their  knives  across  their  throats  in 
a significant  manner  before  me,  but  their  efforts  only 
made  me  smile,  and  provoked  the  other  members  of 
the  party. 

During  the  next  day  we  passed  over  a country  desti- 
tute of  pasturage;  but  the  road  ran  along  the  River 
Quarto  for  an  eighth  of  a mile,  and  we  had,  therefore, 
some  muddy  water  to  drink. 

At  this  place  the  river  trended  to  the  west;  the  right 
bank  was  about  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  as  steep 
as  a wall ; the  left  side  was  sloping  and  covered  with 


128 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


vines,  thorn-bushes,  and  gigantic  cacti,  which  in  one 
place  formed  a natural  enclosure,  in  which  I passed 
fully  an  hour,  in  watching  the  movements  of  a bird 
resembling  our  turtle-dove.  The  river  was  about  twenty 
feet  wide,  and  had  a sluggish  current. 

We  passed  at  dusk  the  hamlet  of  Saladillo,  but  could 
not  catch  a glimpse  of  it,  though  Don  Manuel  wished 
me  to  visit  it  with  him;  for,  said  he,  “Hay  mucho  pan , 
mucho  queso , emuchas  muchachas  tambien ” — “There 
is  a plenty  of  bread  and  cheese,  and  also  a great  many 
young  ladies.” 

Upon  the  pampas,  winds  from  opposite  quarters  fre- 
quently meet  and  form  little  whirlwinds,  that  some- 
times take  up  a large  cloud  of  dust,  which  helps  to 
relieve  the  monotony  of  the  journey ; but  these  clouds 
of  dust  not  only  settle  upon  the  weary  travellers,  cover- 
ing them  with  the  fine  powder,  but  render  them  ex- 
ceedingly thirsty.  Such  was  my  condition,  when,  way- 
worn and  weary,  the  orders  were  spoken  to  halt  and 
prepare  to  camp.  We  had  arrived  at  the  borders  of  a 
salt  lagoon,  which  was  filled  with  wild  fowl.  The  con- 
fused sounds  that  came  from  hundreds  of  ducks,  teals, 
loons,  white  cranes,  sand-pipers,  and  plovers,  made  it 
a second  Babel.  Around  the  borders  of  the  lake  the 
soil  was  white  with  saline  matter,  and  covered  with 
the  footprints  of  the  bizcacha , and  I observed  that  the 
grass  was  trodden  down  into  little  paths  leading  from 
their  burrows  to  the  water. 

Our  last  cow  had  been  eaten,  and  we  had  already 
fasted  twenty-four  hours,  when  we  prepared  to  camp, 
and  I was  only  too  glad  when  the  directions  were 
given  to  slaughter  an  ox;  and,  judging  by  the  alacrity 


SCENES  ON  THE  PAMPAS. 


129 


with  which  the  men  set  about  executing  their  orders, 
they  were  as  glad  as  myself  of  the  prospect  of  break- 
ing their  fast. 

The  animal  was  thrown  down  and  butchered;  its 
blood  was  allowed  to  run  into  a hole  dug  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  suffered  to  clot,  when  it  was  placed  in  a 
bladder,  and  suspended  from  the  roof  of  a cart,  to  be 
kept  for  the  purpose  of  coloring  the  handles  of  the 
small  goads  — the  picanos  chicos  — of  the  drivers. 
While  a portion  of  the  men  were  attending  to  this 
work,  others  were  engaged  in  caring  for  their  cattle, 
and  others  were  lighting  a fire,  which,  as  other  fuel  was 
not  to  be  had,  was  made  of  the  argols  of  cattle.  Soon 
huge  pieces  of  the  meat  were  steaming  and  crackling 
before  the  heat,  and  before  darkness  had  completely 
enveloped  us,  we  were  luxuriating  on  fresh  beef  and 
some  mates. 

Supper  over,  we  took  refuge  in  the  carts,  and  although 
the  noise  of  the  wild  fowl  on  the  lake  was  continued, 
which  to  my  ears  was  a very  sweet  music,  I confess  I 
was  soon  asleep. 

On  the  next  morning,  bright  and  early,  we  again 
took  up  our  march,  and  through  that  day  and  the  next 
pushed  on  over  the  plains. 

From  the  hamlet  of  Saladillo,  sixty  miles  westward, 
we  met  but  two  or  three  huts  and  a few  salt  lagoons. 
Near  one  of  the  latter,  six  black-necked  swans  flew 
over  my  head,  and  I noticed  many  other.,  fowls  that 
are  common  in  North  America,  such  as  the  stilt,  green- 
winged teal,  pin-tailed  duck,  and  the  great  blue  heron. 
The  road  w^s.  everywhere  covered  with  saline  matter, 
9 


130 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


and  the  reflection  of  the  sun’s  rays  upon  it  was  pain- 
ful to  the  sight. 

As  we  passed  a mud  hut  near  one  of  the  lagoons,  a 
woman  came  out  to  sell  melons  and  pumpkins.  I vis- 
ited the  hut,  but,  although  it  was  far  neater  than  the 
majority  of  ranchos  on  the  j^ampas,  it  was  a miserable 
place  to  live  in,  for  the  fleas  and  chinchas  were  far  too 
numerous  for  comfort.  The  hut  was  twelve  feet  long 
and  seven  feet  high ; it  was  a mere  framework  of  sticks 
lashed  together  with  strips  of  hide,  and  covered  with 
cornstalks,  reeds,  and  mud.  It  contained  two  beds 
propped  against  the  wall ; three  or  four  bottles,  a 
couple  of  spoons,  and  an  iron  kettle  with  the  mate , 
were  the  contents  of  one  corner,  and  the  only  furni- 
ture the  cabin  contained.  I noticed  long  strings  of 
sliced  pumpkins  drying  in  the  sun;  these  vegetables 
keep  many  poor  peons  from  starving  during  the  winter 
time.  They  are  very  generally  grown,  and  are  used 
throughout  the  country. 

The  woman  appeared  to  be  frugal  and  industrious, 
for  she  had  cultivated  a large  patch  of  melons,  and 
raised  numerous  families  of  hens,  turkeys,  and  mus- 
covy  ducks.  And  I would  remark,  in  passing,  that 
this  woman  was  not  an  exception,  as  regards  general 
fitness  for  the  duties  of  life,  to  her  sex  throughout  the 
republic ; indeed,  they  seem  better  fitted  to  act  in  any 
responsible  position,  or  attend  to  any  duty,  than  the 
men ; for  of  the  large  class  called  chinos  (pronounced 
cheenows),  produced  by  intermarriage  of  the  Spanish 
and  Indians,  that  cover  the  pampas,  and  compose  the 
lower  classes  in  the  more  civilized  towns,  the  women 
are  the  most  energetic  and  faithful. 


AN  UGLY  WOMAN. 


131 


Our  march  for  several  days  was  monotonous  and 
eventless.  Late  in  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday,  April 
10,  we  camped  on  the  open  plain,  one  mile  distant 
from  the  little  town  of  Punta  del  Sauce  (Willow 
Point),  so  called  from  the  scattered  willows  around  it. 
It  contains  between  two  and  three  hundred  inhabi- 
tants, as  Don  Jose  informed  me.  The  people  must 
have  been  sharp-sighted,  for  we  had  hardly  come  in 
sight  of  the  place  before  we  saw  the  townsfolk  ap- 
proaching us. 

Among  the  many  visitors  was  one  that  very  particu- 
larly attracted  my  attention,  and  for  some  minutes 
puzzled  me  to  decide  as  to  which  sex  it  belonged.  It 
was  astride  a one-eared  donkey,  which  it  halted  before 
our  party,  without  dismounting.  While  this  person 
conversed  with  the  'patron  in  gutturals,  I had  a fair 
opportunity  to  survey  its  ugly  features  and  shapeless 
form.  The  head  was  enormous,  and  the  hair  stuck 
out  in  every  direction  in  wiry  curls.  The  swarthy 
face,  huge  lips,  and  large  bright  eyes  showed  that  the 
negro  blood  prevailed  over  the  Indian.  What  added 
still  more  to  its  ferocious  expression  was  the  long,  pro- 
jecting incisors,  which,  when  the  creature  spoke,  caused 
it  to  resemble  a wild  beast  more  than  a human  being. 
It  wore  a calico  tunic,  unbuttoned  behind,  from  the 
skirts  of  which  protruded  a thick  pair  of  round  legs, 
that  drammed  the  sides  of  the  jackass,  in  lieu  of  whip 
or  spur.  When  Don  Jose  informed  me  that  it  was 
una  senorita  (a  woman),  I uttered  an  exclamation  of 
surprise.  But  I had  not  seen  all  the  beauties,  for  dur- 
ing the  remainder  of  our  journey  we  fell  in  with  sev- 
eral others,  counterparts  of  this  woman,  and,  if  possi- 


132 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


ble,  still  more  ugly  and  disagreeable.  During  our  stay 
at  Punta  del  Sauce,  several  young  women  (half  Indian) 
brought  a poor  quality  of  salt  to  sell,  together  with 
cheese  and  melons.  I gave  an  old  Indian,  who  was 
one  of  our  drivers,  and  who  had  on  several  occasions 
shown  me  a kindness,  a pound  of  the  best  salt  that  I 
could  procure.  After  tasting  it,  he  put  it  carefully 
aside,  perhaps  with  the  intention  of  selling  it,  as  he 
did  not  use  any  on  the  road.  While  the  patron! s back 
was  turned,  Don  Facundo,  my  cook  and  attendant, 
sold  my  meat  to  a woman  of  the  village  for  a few  ears 
of  corn ; but,  as  I did  not  understand  his  Quichua  lan- 
guage, it  was  useless  for  me  to  remonstrate.  The  don, 
with  his  messmates,  feasted  upon  their  new  dish  with- 
out extending  an  invitation  to  its  should-be  rightful 
owner,  who  was  obliged  to  fast  for  the  next  thirty-six 
hours.  The  rascals  told  Don  Jose  some  lie  to  account 
for  the  loss  of  my  meat,  and  that  was  the  last  of  it. 

Again  we  took  up  our  line  of  march.  On  the  next 
day  we  came  again  to  the  river,  and  I noticed  that  its 
banks  were  in  some  places  perforated  with  the  burrows 
or  holes  of  parrots.  In  this  place  the  water  was  clear, 
and  I did  not  notice  any  saline  deposit  upon  its  banks. 

The  woman  in  our  caravan,  of  whom  I have  spoken 
before,  on  this  day  fell  and  drove  a splinter  into  her 
foot ; and,  as  she  could  not  extract  it,  I offered  my  ser- 
vices as  medico.  As  I was  successful,  she  seemed 
overwhelmed  with  gratitude,  and  from  that  time  she 
was  almost  the  only  friend  that  I had  among  the  people 
of  the  troop. 

During  our  journey  on  this  day,  as  they  were  riding 
along,  the  patron  and  capatoz  entered  upon  a geograph- 


LA  REDUCCION. 


133 


ical  discussion,  and  as  their  opinions  differed  widely, 
they  called  upon  me  to  decide  between  them;  but  as 
Don  Jose  had  the  reputation  of  a great  scholar  among 
his  men,  I did  not  dare  to  give  him  any  opinion  of  my 
own,  and  they  went  on  in  the  same  tone  as  before. 

“ Where  is  Bostron  ? ” asked  the  capatoz. 

“Bostron  is  in  France,  to  be  sure,”  replied  the  other. 

“That  cannot  be,  because  France  is  a great  way  off, 
and  has  not  got  any  moon ; and  the  gringo  told  me, 
the  other  night,  that  there  is  a moon  in  Bostron,  and 
North  America  is  in  the  same  place.” 

“ Fool !”  exclaimed  the  scholar,  “North  America  is 
in  England,  the  country  where  the  gringos  live  that 
tried  to  take  Buenos  Ayres.” 

Each  was  confident  that  he  was  right,  and,  believing 
that 

“ Where  ignorance  is  bliss,  ’tis  folly  to  be  wise,” 

I left  them  to  themselves. 

The  caravan  dragged  on  its  weary  pace ; at  length, 
as  darkness  came  on,  the  peons,  looking  out  of  their 
wagons,  shouted,  as  they  pointed  ahead  of  us,  “ La  Re- 
duccion ! ” “ Reduccion ! ” 

Soon  we  drew  near  the  town,  which  lay  surrounded 
with  fields  of  corn.  As  we  approached  the  place,  old 
women  and  young  people  came  out  to  meet  us,  bring- 
ing soft  cheese,  salt,  and  unripe  melons  for  sale.  When 
we  reached  the  outskirts,  Don  Jose  wheeled  his  mule 
and  dismounted ; each  peon  cried  “ Sh-u-u-ah ! ” to  his 
oxen,  and  the  tired  caravan  halted  for  the  night.  On 
the  next  morning  we  again  took  up  the  march,  and 
made  considerable  progress  before  sunrise;  but  the 


134 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


wind  from  the  north  soon  came  laden  with  a most 
torrid  heat,  and  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  a pause, 
luckily  close  beside  a river,  the  valley  of  which  was 
filled  with  tall  flags  and  willows.  The  water  was  very 
clear,  and  ran  over  a bed  of  sand,  filled  with  scales 
of  mica  and  quartz. 

At  dusk  we  prepared  to  cross  the  stream  (the  Rio 
Quarto)  at  Paso  Duranzo  (Peach  Pass).  At  this  ford 
the  river,  which  was  very  wide  and  shallow,  has  a 
swift  current  and  a stony  bed.  We  intended  to  spend 
the  night  on  the  opposite  side,  so  that  we  could  have 
a fair  start  next  day.  The  men  stripped  themselves, 
and  stood  in  a line  from  one  bank  to  the  other.  As 
each  cart  was  drawn  slowly  past  by  the  oxen,  the  cruel 
fellows  goaded  them  until  the  blood  trickled  from  the 
punctures,  at  the  same  time  yelling  loud  enough  to  be 
heard  a mile  at  least.  Beyond  the  river  was  a hill 
covered  with  bushes,  and  called  by  the  natives  San 
Bernardo,  and  to  the  right  of  the  road  a small  collec- 
tion of  ranchos  surrounded  by  patches  of  corn. 

Prom  the  summit  of  San  Bernardo  I caught  sight 
of  the  distant  tops  of  the  Cerro  Moro,  resembling  a 
silver  cloud  in  the  clear  heavens.  During  the  evening 
we  occupied  ourselves  in  drawing  trunks  of  trees  from 
the  river  valley,  and  lashing  them  to  the  outside  of  the 
carts,  and  in  filling  the  jars  behind  the  carts  with  water, 
preparatory  to  a dry  march. 

While  we  were  at  supper,  three  pampa  Indian  women 
passed  the  camp.  Two  were  very  masculine  in  appear- 
ance, the  third  young  and  handsome.  They  were 
dressed  in  loose  gowns.  As  they  passed  they  smiled, 
apparently  at  the  consternation  their  appearance  pro- 


INDIAN  WOMEN. 


135 


duced  among  the  peons,  who  seemed  ready  to  sink 
into  the  ground  with  fear  at  the  presence  of  supposed 
spies.  The  women  were  from  the  pampas,  and  were 
on  their  way  to  the  village  of  Rio  Quarto.  The  ex- 
citement which  their  advent  created  among  our  people 
was  a long  time  in  being  lulled,  and  even  when  I sought 
my  bed  in  the  cart  I heard  th6  eager  and  animated 
voices  of  the  peons,  who  were  busily  engaged  in  pre- 
paring for  an  onslaught  from  the  dreaded  savages. 


136 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM  RIO  QUARTO  TO*  CERRO  MORO. 

OX  Saturday,  April  14,  we  unlashed  our  oxen 
before  Rio  Quarto.  All  along  the  road  the 
‘ patron  and  capatoz  had  spoken  of  this  village,  which 
they  described  as  being  very  beautiful,  filled  with  fine 
white-washed  houses,  and  inhabited  by  a wealthy  class 
of  people,  many  of  whom  owned  thousands  of  cattle 
which  were  pastured  upon  estancias  outside  the  vil- 
lage. Besides,  it  was  here  that  the  great  Indian  bat- 
tles had  taken  place : both  the  gentlemen  failed  to 
inform  me  that  the  Indians  were  generally  the  victors, 
not  the  Cristianos , as  they  called  the  citizens  of  the 
village. 

The  woman,  with  her  two  children,  who  had  trav- 
elled with  us,  set  out  for  a visit  to  the  village,  and, 
bent  upon  exploring  the  place,  I accompanied  them. 

Rio  Quarto  is  situated  upon  a plain,  and  differs  but 
little  in  its  general  appearance  from  the  other  towns. 
It  is  laid  out  in  a regular  manner,  and  is  shut  in  by  a 
mud  wall  two  or  three  feet  in  thickness,  and  five  or 
more  in  height.  The  wall  is  surrounded  by  a broad 
trench  about  four  feet  deep,  which  serves  as  a defence 
against  the  Indians.  It  was  hard  for  me  at  first  to 
understand  the  value  of  this  dry  ditch ; but  I learned 


RIO  QUARTO. 


137 


afterwards  that  no  more  formidable  defence  was  need- 
ed against  an  attack  from  the  savages;  for,  during 
engagements,  they  never  leave  the  backs  of  their 
horses,  and  as  they  cannot  leap  the  ditches,  nor  scram 
ble  out  of  them  when  in,  they  avoid  the  obstacles  with 
care. 

At  the  time  of  our  visit  to  Rio  Quarto,  there  was  no 
little  commotion  among  the  people ; for  news  had  been 
received  of  a projected  Indian  attack,  and  the  news 
seemed  to  be  confirmed  by  the  recent  intelligence  that 
the  savages  had  drawn  off  from  other  places,  and  were 
concentrating  near  the  town. 

The  garrison  had  been  reenforced  by  soldiers  sent  by 
the  governor  of  the  province.  These  troops,  in  their 
ignorance  and  alarm,  had  loaded  an  old  iron  gun  in  a 
most  singular  manner;  for  they  had  first  put  in  several 
pounds  of  lead  balls  and  slugs,  then  rammed  in  a 
heavy  wadding,  and  finally  charged  with  powder.  I 
judged  from  their  manner  of  loading  cannons,  that 
their  efficiency  as  soldiers,  should  an  attack  be  made, 
would  prove  of  little  value. 

The  houses  of  Rio  Quarto  are  built  of  mud,  and 
thatched  with  dry  grass;  the  streets  are  of  mud,  the 
walls  are  of  mud,  and  the  ideas  of  the  people  are 
muddy  thick.  They  seem  merely  to  exist,  rather  than 
live  with  any  idea  of  what  living  is.  The  few  rich  men 
of  the  village  own  the  cattle  that  feed  in  the  surround- 
ing country,  while  the  poorer  classes  support  them- 
selves as  best  they  can,  living  on  a meagre  diet  of 
pumpkins,  peaches,  corn,  and  rarely,  meat.  They  some- 
times labor  for  their  wealthier  townspeople,  but  usually 
sleep  the  time  away.  All  the  persons  that  I met  were 


138 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


squalid  in  appearance,  and  the  children  were  half 
naked. 

The  gardens  about  the  town  contained  but  little 
more  than  quince  or  peach  trees.  At  the  corners  of 
the  streets  were  filthy  pulperias  (small  shops),  and  the 
only  decent  building  in  town  was  the  church  in  the 
plaza,  which  was  surmounted  by  a dome,  steeple,  and 
cross.  On  the  side  of  the  building,  in  place  of  win- 
dows, hemispherical  holes  were  cut,  and  covered  with 
muslin ; in  fact,  the  only  glass  that  I saw  was  in  the 
two  or  three  street  lamps.  As  it  was  Saturday,  the 
vigilantes  were  sweeping  the  plaza  with  a large  hide, 
attached  to  the  surcingle  of  a horse  which  was  driven 
around  the  square. 

Having  fasted  since  the  day  before,  I purchased 
some  bread  made  in  the  place,  and  shared  it  with  my 
companions.  It  was  poor  in  quality,  and  contained  no 
small  amount  of  sand  and  sticks.  The  flour  had  been 
brought  on  mules  from  Mendoza,  three  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  distant,  and  bread  was  something  of  a 
luxury  in  Rio  Quarto. 

After  quite  a stay,  nearly  a day  in  length,  we  left 
Rio  Quarto.  Our  route  lay  over  an  undulating  pampa, 
covered  with  long  grass,  but  scarcely  a herd  of  cattle 
could  be  seen,  and  for  miles  we  met  with  no  evidence 
that  human  beings  inhabited  the  country.  Water  was 
seldom  found,  but  the  small  quantities  that  we  dis- 
covered lay  in  little  hollows  of  two  or  three  inches  in 
depth,  and  was  of  a better  quality  than  any  that  we 
had  met  with  on  the  road. 

The  herdsmen  are  extremely  dirty  in  their  habits, 
and  those  who  performed  the  duty  of  drivers  in  our 


A LUXURY. 


139 


caravan  were  particularly  filthy;  many  of  them,  in- 
deed, showed  no  token  of  ablutions  performed  for 
many  weeks. 

While  the  troop  halted  to  rest  the  oxen  close  by  a 
pool  of  water,  I could  not  resist  the  temptation  to 
bathe,  and,  stripping  myself,  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  a 
good  bath,  which  had  been  denied  me  for  more  than  a 
fortnight.  I then  washed  my  linen,  and  returned  to 
the  men  who  were  sitting  around  the  fire,  solacing 
themselves  with  a round  of  mates . They  laughed 
heartily  at  my  ideas  of  cleanliness,  and  asked,  through 
Don  Manuel,  my  interpreter,  what  opinion  I had  formed 
of  themselves,  who  could  cross  the  pampas  and  return 
again  — a journey  of  eighty  days  — without  once  ap- 
plying water  to  their  skins.  I replied  that  it  was  my 
opinion  that  they  were  very  dirty  fellows,  and  suited 
for  the  country  in  which  they  lived.  At  this  answer 
they  again  laughed,  and  replied  that  white  skins,  like 
those  of  all  foreigners,  were  exceedingly  inconvenient, 
because  of  the  great  attention  required  for  retaining 
its  color. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  but  the  caravan  kept  on 
its  way  as  usual. 

Throughout  the  whole  day  the  sun  poured  down  its 
scorching  rays,  and  the  hot  wind  from  the  north  was 
accompanied  by  myriads  of  mosquitos  and  minute 
black  flies. 

We  had  nothing  left  of  the  ox  that  had  been  finished 
the  day  before,  save  the  head,  which  had  hung  upon 
the  outside  of  one  of  the  carts  for  four  days,  and  was 
in  a decomposed  state.  The  sight  of  the  filthy  cra- 
nium caused  me  to  wonder  why  it  was  not  thrown 


140 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


away,  for  I never  dreamed  that  it  was  intended  for 
any  use  ; but  it  was  not  to  be  wasted. 

We  had  not  eaten  anything  since  the  morning  of 
the  previous  day;  but  at  noon  a halt  was  ordered,  a 
quantity  of  dried  argols  of  cattle  were  collected,  a fire 
was  kindled  with  flint  and  steel,  which  the  herdsman 
always  carries  in  his  belt,  and  an  old  iron  kettle,  be- 
longing to  one  of  the  carts,  was  partly  filled  with 
water,  and  placed  above  the  coals.  When  it  was 
properly  adjusted,  the  men  piled  the  dry  dung  around 
the  bottom  so  as  to  retain  the  heat  beneath  it,  and 
soon  the  water  was  bubbling  and  beginning  to  boil. 
The  old  and  decomposed  head  of  the  ox  was  now 
brought  to  the  fire.  Its  contents  — the  brains,  &c.  — 
were  scooped  out,  and  thrown  into  the  pot,  and  with 
the  addition  of  a little  salt  the  stew  was  complete.  At 
any  other  time  the  sight  of  such  a mess  would  have 
disgusted  me,  but  things  were  changed  now,  and,  faint 
with  hunger,  I watched  the  boiling  of  the  stew  with 
no  little  interest. 

At  last  Facundo,  the  cook,  who  had  stood  beside 
the  kettle  during  the  whole  time,  and  had  occasionally 
tasted  the  dish  with  his  horn  spoon,  and  as  often  had 
declared  it  “excellent,”  summoned  the  party  to  dinner. 
I remember  well  that  I scrambled  with  the  others  to 
get  at  it,  but  I only  procured  a very  small  portion, 
w’hich  I was  obliged  to  swallow  so  hot  that  I scalcfed 
my  tongue  severely. 

The  meal  was  finished  in  a much  shorter  time  than 
I have  occupied  in  describing  it,  and  soon  each  driver 
hurried  off  to  lasso  his  oxen,  which  they  lashed  to  the 
yokes,  and  we  were  again  in  motion. 


A STUBBORN  COW. 


141 


About  three  o’clock  we  drew  up  beside  some  rough 
hummocks  of  earth  to  feed  the  cattle;  the  country  was 
more  undulating,  and  was  here  covered  with  wire- 
grass,  which  the  cattle  at  once  began  to  feed  upon.  I 
had  here  a first  view  of  the  Sierra  of  Cordova,  the 
boundary  line  of  the  provinces  of  Cordova  and  San 
Luis. 

The  patron  had  purchased  an  old  cow  a few  days 
before  at  San  Bernardo,  and  having  stinted  the  men 
as  long  as  possible,  he  now  decided  to  kill  her.  This 
was  no  easy  matter,  for  the  cow  was  as  stubborn  and 
furious  as  any  bull,  and  had  only  been  kept  manage- 
able by  attaching  her  by  a strap  of  hide  to  another 
animal  equally  fierce  and  ungovernable.  These  two 
animals  had  required  particular  care  to  prevent  them 
from  straying  from  the  troop. 

The  strap  that  bound  the  two  brutes  together  was 
cut  asunder,  and  Don  Manuel,  the  best  gaucho  of  the 
party,  set  off  in  full  chase  of  the  doomed  cow,  swing- 
ing the  lasso  above  his  head,  and  urging  on  his  horse 
by  repeated  applications  of  the  enormous  spurs  that 
adorned  his  heels.  When  within  eight  or  ten  yards 
of  the  animal,  the  valiant  don,  with  a fiercely  uttered 
ca-jo , let  fly  the  lasso,  and  at  the  same  time  wheeled 
his  horse. 

m The  cow,  continuing  on  her  headlong  course,  was 
suddenly  brought  up  by  the  fatal  noose  tightening 
around  her  neck,  and  she  went  tumbling  to  the 
ground. 

It  was  a wonder  to  me  that  the  fall  did  not  break 
her  neck.  She  arose,  bewildered,  to  her  feet,  and  for 
an  instant  paused ; but  quickly  divining  the  cause  of 


142 


A THOUSAND  MILES  WALK. 


her  entrapment,  she  lowered  her  head,  and  made  a run 
at  the  don  and  his  horse;  but  the  little  animal  that 
he  bestrode  having  been  well  trained,  was  in  a gallop 
before  the  cow  drew  near,  and  the  lasso  kept  as  tight 
as  ever.  The  victim  now  uttered  a loud  bellow,  and 
charged  blindly  at  one  of  the  cart-wheels : the  force 
of  the  shock  with  which  she  struck  rendered  her  wild 
with  rage.  She  bellowed  until  the  tightened  noose 
choked  all  utterance,  when  she  renewed  her  charges 
upon  the  men,  horses,  and  carts.  The  patron  now 
called  loudly  upon  Maistro  Ramon,  one  of  the  leading 
men,  and,  mounting  his  mule,  Maistro  galloped  to  the 
rescue. 

The  cow  stood  at  bay,  tossing  up  the  earth  with  her 
nose,  and  stamping  wrathfully  with  her  hoofs  ; but 
her  new  assailant  was  a skilful  gaucho.  He  started 
her,  and  threw  his  noose  around  one  of  her  hind  legs, 
when,  galloping  in  opposite  directions,  the  two  men 
tripped  the  animal  up,  and  stretched  her  upon  the 
ground. 

One  of  the  peons  fastened  her  four  hoofs  together 
with  a piece  of  hide,  and  another  man  officiated  as 
butcher.  With  his  long  knife  he  despatched  her,  and 
in  half  an  hour  she  was  skinned,  cut  up,  and  divided 
among  the  carts.  When  the  meat  was  cooked  I ate  a 
moderate-sized  piece,  and  strolled  away  from  the  men, 
who  were  gormandizing  beside  the  fires,  to  watch  the 
curious  feast  that  the  birds  of  prey  were  making  upon 
the  refuse  parts  of  the  cow. 

Whether  some  of  the  birds  of  prey  discover  their 
food  by  means  of  sight  or  scent,  has  long  been  an  un- 
settled question,  some  naturalists  affirming  that  the 


HABITS  OF  THE  CARACARA  EAGLE. 


143 


former  sense  is  their  principal  guide,  and  others  that 
the  latter  is  the  only  one. 

Audubon,  in  his  Ornithological  Biography,  gives  some 
accounts  of  interesting  experiments  that  he  made  with 
the  turkey-buzzard,  proving  that  this  bird  is  attracted 
only  by  the  organs  of  vision  to  its  food.  Other  writers 
have  offered  other  observations,  corroborative  of  Au- 
dubon’s position.  And  I would  here  present  a fact 
that  came  to  my  observation,  concerning  one  of  the 
most  common  South  American  birds,  helping  to  show 
that  Audubon  was  correct  in  his  opinion. 

Before  the  cow  was  butchered,  I searched  the  plain, 
but  not  a single  caracara  ( Polyborus  Brcisiliensis),  the 
well-known  carrion-lover  of  the  pamjjas,  was  visible. 
There  was  no  wind  stirring,  and  had  there  been,  the 
scent  of  the  fresh  offal  of  the  cow  could  certainly  not 
have  been  carried  to  any  distance.  But  the  cow  had 
hardly  been  butchered  when  a single  caracara  was  seen 
on  the  horizon.  He  had  hardly  alighted  beside  the 
offal  when  another  and  another  were  distinguished, 
coming  in  the  path  of  the  first.  For  half  an  hour  they 
continued  to  arrive,  all  coming  from  one  direction, 
and  as  one  alighted  upon  the  carcass  another  came  in 
view,  flying  straight  to  the  spot  where  the  others  were 
collected.  I remained  watching  them  for  a long  time, 
and  when  I left  there  were  at  least  fifty  birds  on  the 
spot,  and  the  line  of  flight  was  still  unbroken ; each 
new  comer  being  greeted  by  the  others  with  their  in- 
distinct guttural  ca-ra-ca-ra!  Now,  of  course,  all  these 
birds  had  not  been  attracted  by  the  sense  of  smell,  for 
the  supposition  that  the  scent  of  the  newly  killed  ani- 
mal could  have  travelled  miles  in  a few  moments  is 
simply  preposterous. 


144 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


The  birds  must  have  been  flying  in  air,  on  the  look- 
out for  food,  and,  as  they  are  gifted  with  a most  won- 
derful vision,  on  seeing  the  first  one  hurrying  in  one 
direction,  the  natural  inference  must  have  been  — if 
birds  draw  inferences  — that  he  was  hurrying  to  some- 
thing to  eat.  The  birds  nearest  him  followed  him, 
others  followed  them,  and  they  arrived  at  the  slaugh- 
ter-ground in  the  order  in  which  they  started  for  it  — 
the  nearest  first,  and  the  farthest  last. 

Perhaps  a more  extended  account  of  the  caracara 
will  not  be  uninteresting  to  the  reader. 

The  caracaras  feed  upon  anything  that  comes  in 
their  way,  gleaning  carrion  like  the  buzzards,  and  kill- 
ing other  birds  like  the  hawks.  I even  once  saw  one 
attack  a lamb,  but  the  old  dam  interfered,  and  after 
receiving  some  rebuffs  from  the  bird,  succeeded  in  pro- 
tecting her  offspring  from  her  enemy. 

This  bird  possesses  an  unenviable  reputation  as  a 
thief  among  the  gauchos,  and,  as  it  kills  young  birds, 
lambs,  even  seizes  the  game  that  the  hunter  has  just 
killed,  it  is  far  from  being  a favorite  with  any  class  of 
the  people. 

It  inhabits  an  extended  geographical  range.  I have 
seen  it  in  south-western  Texas  and  in  most  parts  of 
South  America.  This  species  is  the  “Mexican  Eagle.” 
A fine  bird,  indeed,  for  the  emblem  of  a nation ! — it  is 
emblazoned  upon  the  Mexican  flag;  but  we  of  the 
North  must  not  be  too  critical,  for  we  still  retain  upon 
our  banner  and  coin  that  selfish  thief,  the  bald-headed 
eagle  — the  most  relentless  robber  and  pirate  of  our 
rapacious  birds. 

The  caracara  is  sometimes  found  in  company  with 


THE  TURKEY-BUZZARD. 


145 


the  Gallinazo  ( Cathartes  atratus ),  also  known  to  the 
people  on  the  Plata  as  the  carrion  crow.  This  latter 
bird  is  found  north  of  the  Rio  Negro  in  various  local- 
ities, not  being  met  with  except  near  the  rivers  and 
damp  places.  I did  not  observe  them  about  Buenos 
Ayres,  but  found  them  afterwards  common  dwellers 
about  the  vicinity  of  Mendoza,  along  the  bases  of  the 
Andes.  The  habits  of  the  turkey-buzzard  are  so  well 
known  that  I will  not  dwell  further  upon  them  here. 
I have  noticed  that  the  species  seems  to  be  tamer  on 
the  southern  continent  than  it  is  on  the  northern.  It 
has  the  extended  range  of  one  hundred  degrees  of 
latitude. 

Though  somewhat  repulsive  from  the  offensive  odor 
which  it  receives  from  its  food,  this  bird  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  species.  As  a scavenger  and  remover  of 
decaying  animal  matter  in  the  tropics  it  is  invaluable, 
and  it  is  properly  protected  and  cared  for  in  many 
cities. 

At  noon,  April  6,  we  reached  the  mountain  range 
that  had  loomed  up  before  us  for  several  days,  and 
camped  at  its  base.  The  sierra  terminated  in  low 
hills,  barren  and  destitute  of  verdure,  save  where  oc- 
casional clumps  of  dwarf  trees  grew  about  their  bases. 
A little  rivulet,  taking  its  rise  in  the  mountains,  flowed 
down  through  a deep  fissure  in  the  soil,  and  afforded 
good  water  for  the  cattle. 

We  remained  at  this  comfortable  camp  through  the 
remainder  of  the  day  and  night,  but  started  early  the 
next  morning. 

The  monotony  of  our  journey  was  disturbed  by  the 
arrival  and  passing  of  a troop  of  sixty  mules  loaded 

10 


146 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


with  little  barrels  of  sugar  and  hide  bales  of  yerba 
(tea).  This  troop  was  driven  by  six  men,  and  was 
bound  to  Mendoza.  Like  similar  parties,  the  troop 
was  headed  by  an  old  mare  carrying  a bell,  the  sound 
of  which  keeps  the  animals  from  straying  away. 

Though  the  mule  is  a stubborn  creature,  it  has  a 
very.strong  affection  for  the  madrina , as  the  mare  is 
called,  and  follows  her  like  a colt.  I have  often  watched 
two  large  troops  approaching  each  other  from  opposite 
directions,  in  some  place  where  the  road  was  very 
narrow,  as  in  a mountain  defile,  and  have  been  sur- 
prised to  witness  the  absence  of  all  bewilderment  on 
the  part  of  the  animals.  Though  both  troops  were 
crowded  together,  each  mule  kept  with  his  own  party, 
and  followed  the  sound  of  the  madrinctis  bell,  even  in 
the  darkest  night. 

Having  wound  around  the  point  of  a sierra,  our 
caravan  kept  on  until  dusk,  when  w.e  camped  for  the 
night,  supping  upon  beef  and  four  armadillos,  which 
the  peons  had  caught  during  the  day  in  the  grass. 

The  armadillo  is  a singular  animal,  both  in  appear- 
ance and  mode  of  living.  Four  species  are  found  upon 
the  pampas.  In  Buenos  Ayres  they  are  known  by  the 
general  name  of  peluda.  Darwin  applies  this  term  to 
a particular  species  — Dcisypus  villosus. 

The  gauchos  call  the  female  armadillo  Mulita , which 
name  Darwin  uses  to  distinguish  a separate  species. 
The  male  is  called  Cinquizcho. 

As  my  readers  doubtless  are  aware,  the  body  of  the 
animal  is  protected  by  a coat  of  hard  scales,  consisting 
of  several  divisions,  adapted  to  the  locomotion  of  the 
animal.  Its  head  is  pointed,  and  is  scantily  clothed 


ARMADILLOS. 


147 


with  little  tufts  of  hair  which  grow  out  between  the 
scales.  The  feet  and  legs  are  short,  giving  the  animal, 
when  walking,  a waddling  gait,  similar  to  that  of  the 
tortoise.  The  toe  nails  are  sharp,  and  admirably  shaped 
for  rapid  burrowing  in  the  ground. 

All  the  armadillos,  with  the  exception  of  one  species, 
which  is  nocturnal  in  its  habits,  are  diurnal,  retiring  to 
their  burrows  at  dusk,  and  coming  forth  at  dawn  to 
feed  upon  the  roots  of  grass,  insects,  worms,  &c. 

Their  burrows  do  not  exceed  eight  feet  in  depth. 
In  these  retreats  the  female  brings  forth  four  or  five 
young,  which  follow  her,  soon  after  birth,  in  her  jour- 
neyings  upon  the  plains.  When  man  approaches  them, 
if  near  a burrow,  they  retire  into  it ; but  when  they 
are  distant  from  home  they  endeavor  to  hide  in  the 
grass  until  all  danger  is  past.  While  in  most  locali- 
ties these  animals  Were  found,  to  the  south  of  Rosario 
and  Mendoza  they  were  very  numerous.  The  females 
of  one  species  that  I frequently  met  had  two  mammae. 
I think  the  others  had  four  or  six. 

The  flesh  of  the  armadillo  is  white  and  delicate,  and 
has  the  flavor  of  young  pork.  The  peons  cook  the 
animal  by  dividing  the  two  shells  at  the  junction,  and 
burying  the  whole  in  hot  ashes  and  coals,  and  allow- 
ing it  to  bake  until  thoroughly  done. 

Darwin,  in  his  account  of  these  animals,  says  that 
three  species  of  armadillos  are  found  in  this  country, 
while  a fourth  species,  the  Mulita , does  not  come  as 
far  south  as  Bahia  Blanca.  Of  these  first  mentioned 
are  the  Dasypns  minutus , or  Pichy  ; the  D.  villosus , or 
Peludo;  and  the  D.  apar , or  Mataco.  The  Pichy  is 
found  several  hundred  miles  farther  south  than  any 
species. 


143 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


The  Apar,  commonly  called  mataco,  is  remarkable  by 
having  only  three  movable  bands,  the  rest  of  its  tes- 
sellated covering  being  nearly  inflexible.  It  has  the 
power  of  rolling  itself  into  a perfect  sphere,  like  one 
kind  of  English  wood-louse.  In  this  state  it  is  safe 
from  the  attack  of  dogs  ; for  the  dog,  not  being  able  to 
take  the  whole  in  its  mouth,  tries  to  bite  one  side,  and 
the  ball  slips  away.  The  smooth,  hard  covering  of  the 
mataco  offers  a better  defence  than  the  short  spines  of 
the  hedgehog.  The  pichy  prefers  a very  dry  soil,  and 
the  sand  plains  near  the  coast,  where  for  many 
months  it  cannot  taste  water,  are  its  favorite  resort. 
It  often  tries  to  escape  notice  by  squatting -close  to 
the  ground.  In  the  course  of  a day’s  ride  near  Bahia 
Blanca  several  were  generally  met  with.  The  instant 
one  was  perceived  it  was  necessary,  in  order  to  catch 
it,  almost  to  tumble  off  one’s  horse,  for  in  the  soft  soil 
the  animal  burrowed  so  quickly  that  its  hinder  quar- 
ters would  almost  disappear  before  we  could  alight. 
It  seems  almost  a pity  to  kill  such  nice  little  animals ; 
for,  as  a gaucho  said,  while  sharpening  his  knife  on  the 
back  of  one  (the  gauchos  often  use  a portion  of  the 
armadillo’s  armor  for  a knife  hone),  “/Son  tan  mansoo ” 
(they  are  so  quiet). 

Another  writer  informs  us  that  the  armadillos  “ bur- 
row to  the  extent  of  thirteen  or  fourteen  feet,  descend- 
ing in  an  abruptly  sloping  direction  for  some  three  or 
four  feet,  then  taking  a sudden  bend,  and  inclining 
slightly  upward.  Much  of  their  food  is  procured  be- 
neath the  surface  of  the  earth.  They  possess  carniv- 
orous tastes,  and  feed  upon  dead  cattle,  insects,  snails, 
snakes,  as  well  as  upon  roots.  The  giant  armadillo, 


ARMADILLOS. 


149 


according  to  one  writer,  digs  up  dead  bodies  in  the 
burial  grounds.” 

“When  hunting  these  animals,”  says  Waterton, 
“ the  first  point  is  to  ascertain  if  the  inhabitant  of  the 
burrow  Is  at  home,  which  is  discovered  by  pushing  a 
stick  into  each  hole,  and  watching  for  the  egress  of 
mosquitos.  If  any  come  out,  the  armadillo  is  in  his 
hole.  A long  rod  is  thrust  into  the  burrow  in  order  to 
learn  its  direction,  and  a hole  is  dug  in  the  ground  to 
meet  the  end  of  the  stick.  A fresh  departure  is  taken 
from  that  point,  the  rod  is  again  introduced,  and  by 
dint  of  laborious  digging  the  animal  is  at  last  captured. 
Meanwhile  the  armadillo  is  not  idle,  but  continues  to 
burrow  in  the  sand  in  the  hopes  of  escaping  its  perse- 
cutors. It  cannot,  however,  dig  so  fast  as  they  can, 
and  is  at  last  obliged  to  yield.” 

While  we  were  lying  behind  the  fire,  after  supper,  a 
loud,  creaking  noise  in  the  distance  announced  the  ap- 
proach of  a caravan  from  Mendoza.  As  it  drew  near 
our  dogs  commenced  barking,  and  were  answered  by 
the  mule  of  the  captain  of  the  caravan  with  a loud 
bray.  While  the  concert  continued,  other  mules  and 
asses  took  up  the  strain,  and  our  camp  was  “ vocal 
with  melodious  sounds”  as  the  caravan  came  in  sight. 
As  they  passed  I counted  sixteen  wagons  heavily  laden 
with  cargoes  of  hides. 

A fresh  breeze  from  the  east  was  springing  up  as  I 
lay  down  on  my  hide  amid  dogs  and  sleeping  natives, 
and  as  I dozed  away,  it  seemed  difficult  to  decide 
which  of  the  two  was  the  most  agreeable  bedfellow ; 
for  as  it  grew  colder,  and  a sharp  frost  came  on,  one 
dirty  fellow  crowded  me  off  my  hide,  and  a still  more 


150 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


filthy  dog,  covered  with  fleas,  crept  under  my  blanket, 
from  the  shelter  of  which  no  moderate  effort  of  mine 
could  remove  him.  At  last,  becoming  desperate  amid 
dirt  and  flea-bites,  I dislodged  the  intruder  by  a kick 
sharp  enough  to  cause  him  to  cry  out,  and  arouse  his 
master  Facundo,  who  waxed  exceedingly  wrathful  at 
such  demonstrations  on  his  dog  by  a “ gringo.” 

Early  the  next  morning  the  caravan  was  on  the 
march,  and  for  an  hour  our  course  led  over  high  hills 
and  across  one  small  stream  that  flowed  from  the  sierra 
behind  us.  After  crossing  these  hills  I observed  be- 
yond, along  the  bases  of  some  low  mountains,  a few 
fields  of  corn  and  a number  of  mud  huts,  where  dwelt, 
in  all  their  indolence,  a party  of  natives  — half  Indians, 
half  Spanish,  or  Christians,  as  Don  Manuel  called  all 
his  countrymen  on  the  pampas. 

As  our  troop  trudged  slowly  along,  some  fifteen  men, 
women,  and  children  followed  in  our  track,  offering  to 
sell  corn,  soft  cheese,  and  a few  loaves  of  bread,  very 
small,  and  containing  a goodly  proportion  of  sand. 
These  loaves  had  not  been  baked  in  the  ashes  after  the 
more  primitive  fashion  of  the  country  still  practised  in 
many  parts,  but  in  Egyptian-shaped  ovens,  built  of 
adobes  (sun-dried  bricks),  and  plastered  within  and 
without  with  mud.  I purchased  a sample  of  the  bread, 
which  proved  even  tougher  than  the  meat  of  the  old 
cow,  and  was  not  half  as  clean;  but  being  a new  arti- 
cle of  food  to  us,  it  proved  a luxury  not  to  be  despised. 
One  woman,  who  exchanged  corn  with  the  drivers  for 
meat,  presented  me  with  nine  ears  of  the  corn.  Know- 
ing from  the  experiences  of  the  journey,  that  after  a 
feast  comes  a fast,  I hid  the  corn  inside  a pair  of  boots 


FRESH  RUMORS. 


151 


among  the  rest  of  my  baggage  in  one  of  the  wagons, 
and  felt  well  armed  against  the  hungry  time  that  was 
sure  to  follow. 

An  hour  later  the  caravan  halted.  While  the  cattle 
were  grazing,  overpowered  by  the  long  walk  under  a 
hot  sun,  I lay  down  to  take  a short  siesta,  from  which, 
on  awakening,  I discovered  that  somebody  had  carried 
off  my  little  stock  of  food. 

From  this  occurrence  I never  afterwards  stored  food, 
but  ate  whatever  came  into  my  possession. 

At  dusk  two  well-dressed  travellers,  who  proved  to 
be  Frenchmen,  came  up  to  our  encampment,  and  made 
inquiries  regarding  the  road.  They  reported  that  seri- 
ous trouble  had  occurred  near  San  Luis  among  the 
farmers,  the  Indians  having  cut  the  throats  of  fourteen 
persons!  This  intelligence  caused  much  speculation 
among  the  drivers,  and,  as  before,  a general  gloom  per- 
vaded the  whole  company. 

As  soon  as  everything  was  arranged  in  camp  for 
any  emergencies  that  might  occur,  I rolled  myself  up 
in  my  blanket,  and  soon  forgot  all  troubles  in  sleep. 


152 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK 


CHAPTER  X. 

FROM  RIO  QUARTO  TO  CERRO  MORO— CONTINUED. 


HILE  all  around  me  seemed  to  offer  danger  in 


some  form,  I grew  lighter  at  heart  every  day 
that  we  further  penetrated  the  country,  for  everything 
was  novel  and  captivating  to  the  fancy.  I was  at  last 
among  a strange  people,  and  their  habits  and  mode  of 
life,  and  the  many  incidents  that  were  constantly  oc- 
curring, were  full  of  interest  to  me.  Although  my 
heart  was  light,  and  I trudged  along  cheerfully  and 
with  courage,  my  companions  in  the  caravan  were  but 
little  calculated  to  make  the  trip  a pleasant  one ; and  I 
must  say  that  they  did  not  try  to  change  their  evi- 
dently disagreeable  nature. 

The  rations  I received  from  the  tall  Santia  gueno, 
my  “ protector  and  firm  friend,”  were  selected  from  the 
toughest  and  driest  portions  of  the  meat,  while  he  de- 
voured my  living,  and  at  the  same  time,  at  meals,  called 
the  attention  of  the  whole  company  to  the  unsuccessful 
attempts  I made  at  mastication. 

At  times,  when  indignation  caused  me  to  reply  in  no 
gentle  terms  to  their  conduct,  in  a tongue  different 
from  theirs,  I perceived  my  folly,  for  it  only  served 
to  draw  out  more  jibes  and  greater  insults  from  the 
fellows. 


DISAGREEABLE  COMPANIONS. 


153 


When  we  were  in  motion,  to  avoid  uncongenial  com- 
pany, I started  in  advance  of  the  troop,  and  kept  far 
ahead  of  it.  Sometimes  I improved  these  opportuni- 
ties to  brood  over  the  ill-treatment  of  the  men ; but  at 
sight  of  a wild  animal,  or  a gaucho  pursuing  a colt 
across  the  plains,  an  instant  revival  of  my  spirits  took 
place,  and  my  whole  senses  were  awakened  to  things 
around  me. 

I usually  had  enough  to  occupy  my  mind ; sometimes 
I was  studying  the  habits  of  birds  or  insects,  at  others 
following  with  my  eyes  the  movements  of  a herd  of 
cattle,  or  gazing  upon  the  mirage  in  the  distant  horizon, 
in  which  our  caravan  was  reflected  with  wonderful  dis- 
tinctness. 

I have  said  that  the  peons  had  not  treated  me  with 
great  friendliness  lately;  but  since  we  left  Rio  Quarto 
their  coolness  grew  more  noticeable,  and  at  length  I 
began  to  fear  that  we  should  not  part  without  a col- 
lision, in  which  case  I knew  I could  depend  on  but  two 
people  in  the  whole  caravan,  the  old  Indian  and  the 
woman  spoken  of  in  a preceding  chapter. 

These  two  had  always  treated  me  kindly,  while  all 
the  others  had  given  me  uneasiness  in  some  way  or 
other. 

Before  the  troop  had  left  Rosario,  my  friend,  Senor 
G.,  cautioned  me  against  showing  money,  and  I had 
followed  his  advice,  having  departed  from  it  only  on 
one  or  two  occasions.  When  near  Rio  Quarto,  not 
wishing  to  be  thought  penurious,  I had  imprudently 
purchased  more  than  my  share  of  the  pumpkins  and 
melons,  which  served  to  regale  the  peons  at  night, 
when  collected  around  the  camp-fires;  and  this  had 


154 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


caused  the  ignorant  fellows  to  suppose  that  there  was 
mucha  plata  (much  money)  in  my  possession.  And 
this  was  the  cause  of  their  ill-feeling  towards  me. 

Several  times  they  were  particularly  anxious  to  know 
if  I had  friends  in  Mendoza,  and  who  were  the  persons 
that  would  receive  me  on  the  arrival  of  the  troop  in 
that  town.  I at  last  found  it  necessary  to  introduce  to 
their  consideration  a character  as  new  to  myself  as  he 
was  to  them.  One  night,  when  we  were  lying  around 
the  fires,  I,  after  describing  my  home  and  friends, 
casually  remarked  that  one  of  them,  a medico,  the  dis- 
tinguished Dr.  Carmel,  of  Mendoza,  was  anxiously 
awaiting  my  arrival,  and  that  his  apprehensions  for  my 
safety  would  increase  until  I reached  the  town. 

To  the  reader  whose  conscience  has  never  been  sub- 
jected to  violence,  this  subterfuge  may  appear  unmanly  ; 
but,  in  justice  to  myself,  I was  obliged  thus  to  impose 
upon  the  peons,  and  the  result  fully  proved  it. 

Under  Dr.  Carmel’s  strong  (prospective)  arm  and 
influence  I found  more  peaceful  hours,  and  suffered 
less  from  annoyance  than  if  his  name  had  never  been 
mentioned,  or  if  the  villanous  fellows  had  been  left  in 
their  first  belief,  which  at  the  same  time  was  correct, 
that  I was  a friendless  gringo , to  whom  they  might 
offer  any  insult  without  fear  of  punishment.  In  what 
manner  was  I,  a solitary  stripling,  to  protect  myself 
against  more  than  a score  of  barbarians,  in  the  very 
heart  of  a country  to  the  languages  and  localities  Gf 
which  I was  a total  stranger,  unless  by  subterfuge  ? 

But  my  troubles  were  not  yet  over. 

While  walking,  as  usual,  one  day,  in  advance  of  the 
carts,  which  came  slowly  creaking  behind,  my  attention 


TROUBLE  BREWING. 


155 


was  directed  to  Juan,  the  little  son  of  my  female  friend, 
who  came  running  after  me.  Juan  spoke  only  broken 
Spanish ; but  upon  reaching  my  side  he  commenced  a 
voluble  discourse,  which,  however,  I gave  little  notice 
to,  supposing  it  to  be  merely  childish  prattle.  At 
length  the  boy  took  my  hand,  and  demanded  my  at- 
tention. 

From  what  he  said,  I could,  indeed,  glean  but  little ; 
but  it  was  enough  to  confirm  my  suspicions,  which  I 
had  had  for  some  time,  that  some  rascality  was  being 
planned  by  the  drivers.  From  mispronounced  words 
and  broken  .sentences,  I received  warning  not  to  eat 
with  the  capatoz  at  the  fire,  — “ Sta  malo  no  come  con 
e7,”  — and  to  be  cautious  when  with  the  men.  Juan 
said  that  his  mother  had  sent  him  to  tell  me  this.  The 
little  fellow  was  about  to  communicate  something  fur- 
ther regarding  his  mother,  when  he  suddenly  became 
silent,  and  squeezed  my  hand.  I looked  around,  and 
beheld  Chico , the  servant  of  the  capatoz , close  upon 
our  heels;  he  had  stealthily  approached,  without  at- 
tracting our  notice. 

“Why  do  you  walk?”  interrogated  little  Juan. 

To  this  question  the  swarthy  Chico,  half  Indian,  half 
negro,  made  no  answer;  but  he  uttered  a sly  laugh, 
that  meant  a good  deal.  We  walked  on  for  upwards 
of  an  hour,  during  which  time  the  half-breed  kept  close 
behind  us. 

Watching  favorable  opportunities,  Juan  informed 
me  that  the  capatoz  had  sent  his  servant  to  prevent  us 
from  conversing ; and  seeing  that  he  was  determined  to 
remain  by  us,  I at  length,  with  the  boy,  rejoined  the 
troop. 


156 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


When  the  caravan  halted  for  the  night,  I walked 
over  to  the  fire  where  the  China  woman  was  seated ; 
but  two  or  three  gauchos  from  our  own  fire  followed 
me,  and  engaged  the  woman  in  conversation. 

In  the  aspect  of  affairs  now,  I confess  I was  some- 
what alarmed,  and  more  than  ever  felt  the  want  of  a 
companion  on  whom  I could  depend.  The  words  of  a 
foreign  merchant,  with  whom  I had  conversed  in  Bue- 
nos Ayres,  were  recalled  most  forcibly  to  me.  “ My 
boy,”  he  said,  “ you  don’t  know  whither  you  are  going. 
When  you  get  among  the  gauchos,  you  will  find  much 
trouble  and  danger.”  And  I acknowledge  that  I now 
felt  he  spoke  the  truth. 

The  men  still  kept  the  woman  aloof  from  me.  I de- 
termined to  take  things  coolly,  and  await  events. 

Don  Manuel  came  to  the  fire  late  in  the  evening, 
and,  taking  his  meat  in  his  hand,  galloped  off  in  the 
dark  to  see  to  the  cattle.  I now  missed  Don  Jose,  the 
patron,  whose  protecting  arm  was  to  be  my  support  in 
danger.  On  inquiring  of  Facundo,  my  cook,  he  pointed 
off  into  the  gloom,  and  uttered  the  Spanish  word  “ Es- 
tancia ,”  by  which  I understood  that  the  patron  was  at 
some  one  of  the  great  cattle-farms  lying  off  the  road. 

I now  felt  that  I was  unprotected,  indeed ; and  when 
the  hour  arrived  for  our  lying  down  to  sleep,  I was  un- 
certain as  to  whether  or  not  I should  remain  unmo- 
lested through  the  night.  But  the  time  for  the  attempt 
on  my  purse,  if  not  life,  had  evidently  not  arrived.  I 
was  permitted  to  fall  asleep,  which  I did  at  last ; and 
our  whole  party  evidently  accompanied  me  in  my  visit 
to  the  land  of  dreams,  for  nothing  was  heard  among 
us,  and  no  one  moved  (if  they  had  I would  have  been 
awakened  in  an  instant)  until  daybreak. 


POISONED. 


157 


When  the  sun  was  just  appearing  above  the  horizon, 
the  capatoz  came  galloping  up  to  the  carts,  and  soon 
the  word  was  spoken  to  get  up  the  oxen  and  mules, 
and  prepare  to  start. 

I remained  in  the  cart  to  write  in  my  journal  until 
the  ugly-visaged  Facundo  appeared  to  inform  me  that 
my  breakfast  was  ready.  As  I approached  the  group 
that  was  huddled  about  the  fire,  not  one  of  them 
deigned  to  notice  me,  save  one  big  fellow,  who,  with 
an  obsequiousness  that  I knew  to  be  assumed,  pointed 
to  the  breakfast. 

The  strips  of  meat  had  been  removed  from  the  fire, 
and  the  spit,  in  a separate  piece,  was  stuck  into  the 
ground,  waiting  for  me.  This  was  an  unusual  attention, 
for  I generally  shared  my  meat  with  the  capatoz , or 
with  Facundo.  The  capatoz  sat  smoking  by  the  fire, 
but  the  patron  had  not  yet  returned  from  the  estancia. 
I offered  my  steak  to  Don  Manuel ; but  he  courteously 
declined,  appearing  to  lack  appetite.  He  refused  a 
second  similar  offer,  and  continued  smoking. 

Determined  not  to  be  balked  by  him,  as  I wished  to 
prove  my  suspicions  that  mischief  was  afoot,  I informed 
him  that  he  lacked  politeness,  and  that  I would  not 
eat  without  him.  The  effect  of  my  words  upon  the 
company  was  of  such  a character  that  I could  no  longer 
doubt  their  intentions. 

At  length  Don  Manuel,  seeing  that  I suspected  some- 
thing, cut  off  from  the  extreme  edge  of  the  steak  a 
mouthful  or  two,  and  ate  it,  upon  which  I cut  from  the 
opposite  side  a little  larger  piece,  and  ate  it  leisurely. 
I then  cut  off  another  piece,  and,  pretending  to  eat  it 
on  the  way,  left  the  party,  and  retired  to  the  cart  to 


158 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK 


finish  my  writing,  throwing  the  meat  in  the  grass  on 
the  way. 

Fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  passed,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  I was  compelled  to  put  aside  paper  and 
pen,  for  a strange  sensation  of  weakness  came  upon 
me,  rendering  me  unable  to  move  — a helpless  prisoner 
in  the  cart. 

Violent  pains,  that  racked  my  head,  were  followed 
by  strong  vomitive  symptoms ; but  I was  still  helpless. 

While  the  oxen  were  being  harnessed,  I made  a 
second  effort  to  leave  the  cart,  but  I could  not  rise. 
Soon  the  villanous  Facundo  entered,  and,  bidding  me, 
in  no  gentle  tones,  to  keep  quiet,  and  not  kick  around, 
he  started  his  oxen,  and,  with  the  rest  of  the  caravan, 
we  were  again  in  motion. 

I soon  fell  into  a delightful  sleep,  and  dreamed  most 
pleasant  dreams.  At  one  moment  I was  moving 
through  the  air,  light,  free  from  human  bonds,  a very 
spirit;  my  whole  senses  were  intoxicated  with  most 
delicious  sensations.  Again  I beheld  most  beautiful 
visions  and  most  gorgeous  colors.  At  last  I seemed 
to  have  been  transported  back  to  my  native  village, 
and  kind  friends  were  grouped  around  me.  The  voice 
of  welcome  greeted  me,  all  trouble  seemed  ended.  A 
clear,  sweet  voice  sang  a well-remembered  song,  which 
seemed  to  be  the  very  essence  of  melody,  so  ravish- 
ingly  did  it  fall  upon  my  ear. 

Gradually  the  voice  grew  indistinct,  then  loud  and 
harsh,  and  I returned  to  consciousness  to  recognize  the 
tones  of  Facundo,  who  was  singing  to  himself.  His 
discordant  words  were  uttered  in  a long-drawn  cadence, 
commencing  in  a low,  mournful  strain,  and  ending  with 
a couplet  and  groans. 


AN  ANTIDOTE. 


159 


The  following  syllables  will  give  an  idea  of  his  song. 
They  were  repeated  so  many  times  that  I shall  hardly 
forget  them : — 

“ Que  pur  ma  no  yepe  — oh  — ah  — OUGH. 

Ya,  ke,  pur,  se,  va,  yah  — oh  — oh  — ah  — OUGH.” 

Facundo  continued  groaning,  either  for  his  own 
pleasure  or  for  my  discomfort,  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  time  that  I lay  sick  in  the  cart. 

At  our  first  stopping-place,  about  two  hours  after 
breakfast,  the  woman  sent  me,  by  little  Juan,  a tea  that 
she  had  prepared  from  some  herbaceous  plant  of  the 
pampas,  to  gather  which  she  had  walked  all  the  morn- 
ing behind  the  carts. 

I felt  much  better  after  drinking  the  tea,  but  did 
not  entirely  recover  from  my  sudden  illness  for  several 
days.  I subsequently  learned  that  it  was  not  unusual 
for  the  Santia  guenos  to  revenge  a fancied  insult,  or  to 
annoy  one  whom  they  have  a dislike  for,  by  administer- 
ing poison,  sometimes  in  sufficient  quantities  to  de- 
stroy life,  and  at  other  times  in  a quantity  sufficient  to 
produce  only  sickness.  They  had  undoubtedly  taken 
advantage  of  the  absence  of  the  patron  to  treat  me  as 
they  did. 

The  first  time  I sallied  forth  from  confinement  I was 
received  in  a characteristic  manner  by  the  drivers,  who 
clapped  their  hands  to  their  stomachs,  and  questioned 
me  with  impudent  gestures  if  I was  not  ill,  and  what 
was  the  trouble.  The  good  woman  only  said,  compas- 
sionately, “ Pobre  cito ” (poor  fellow). 

During  my  sickness  I continued  to  write  daily,  much 
to  the  annoyance  of  Facundo,  who  looked  threateningly 


160 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


at  my  notes,  as  if  he  suspected  his  name  was  there.  I 
even  went  so  far  as  to  ask  him  how  he  spelt  his  name, 
which  was  a useless  question  enough ; for  had  he  been 
disposed  to  inform  me,  he  could  not,  since  he  knew 
not  one  letter  from  another. 

My  illness  cost  me  but  little  time,  and  I was  soon 
able  to  resume  my  pedestrian  journey,  and  by  night  of 
the  same  day  I was  nearly  well. 

Our  journey  had  been  through  the  day  across  a hilly 
country.  As  evening  drew  near,  we  reached  a water- 
ing-place, which  afforded  an  abundance  of  feed  around 
it,  and  the  caravan  was  halted,  and  camp  prepared. 

At  supper  I was  cautious  to  eat  only  of  the  food  that 
I saw  the  others  partake  of,  which  they  observing,  I 
noticed  that  glances  and  meaning  smiles  were  ex- 
changed among  them. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  were  again  in  motion. 

The  country  was  still  broken,  and  we  met  several 
deep  gullies,  which  we  crossed  with  great  labor,  it  being 
necessary  to  attach  extra  yokes  of  oxen  to  the  carts  to 
effect  a passage.  One  of  these  gullies  was  so  danger- 
ous, on  account  of  the  steepness  of  its  sides,  that  a pair 
of  oxen  were  fastened  behind  the  cart  to  prevent  it 
from  gaining  too  great  a velocity  in  its  descent. 

Near  this  latter  pass  was  a five  by  six  stone  hut, 
roofed  with  sticks  and  mud,  which  served  as  a post- 
house,  where  the  galloping  courier  receives  his  fresh 
horse.  Two  women,  with  low  foreheads  and  heavy 
features,  came  out  of  the  cabin,  followed  by  an  old 
man,  the  postmaster,  to  stare  at  us,  and  inquire  if  the 
drivers  had  any  sugar  or  yerba  to  exchange  with  them. 
For  what  articles  they  proposed  to  barter  I could  not 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


161 


conceive,  as  the  open  side  of  the  hut  showed  an  interior 
destitute  of  everything  like  comfort ; for  it  contained 
only  an  old  hide  and  bedding,  and  one  cheese,  that 
rested  upon  a swinging  shelf  made  of  canes  bound  to- 
gether with  hide  thongs. 

Like  many  of  the  poor  gauchos,  the  postman  smoked 
bad  Tucuman  tobacco,  rolled  up  in  a narrow  piece  of 
corn-leaf,  a material  that  is  preferred  by  some  to  the 
coarse  linen  paper  manufactured  in  Europe  for  the 
South  American  market. 

Among  the  hills  that  bounded  our  northern  horizon, 
and  which  some  travellers  would  classify  as  mountains, 
the  wind  blows  almost  constantly  with  great  force  from 
various  quarters.  The  smallest  of  the  hills  were  well 
grassed  over,  and  wherever  the  ruts  entered  the  soil 
near  them  it  showed  a sandy  gravel.  Upon  the  plains 
to  the  south  was  the  richer  pasturage,  with  a soil  bet- 
ter fitted  for  cultivation. 

At  night  we  encamped  close  by  the  hamlet  of  El 
Moro,  situated,  as  I believe,  not  far  from  the  foot  of 
Cerro  Moro,  a chain  of  low  mountains. 

At  daylight  the  next  morning  the  caravan  wound 
down  among  the  hills  to  a level  pampa,  with  barren 
mountains  to  the  north. 

The  Mendoza  diligence  passed,  drawn  by  six  tired 
horses.  Besides  drawing  his  share  of  the  weight  of  the 
carriage,  each  animal  carried  upon  his  back  a postilion, 
who  did  not  fail  to  use  whip  or  spur  as  necessity  de- 
manded. 

The  plain  that  we  were  upon  was  covered  with  im- 
mense piles  of  decomposed  granite,  how  placed  in  such 
positions  it  is  difficult  to  surmise.  The  thorn  and 

11 


162 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


algarroba  tree  grew  abundantly.  Our  course  for  tlie 
remainder  of  the  day  continued  over  the  pampa,  with 
hills  growing  more  distinct  each  hour  in  the  distance ; 
a strong  wind  blew  steadily  from  the  Cerro  until  dark, 
when  it  died  away,  and  a calm,  lovely  night  succeeded. 

The  following  day  we  left  the  plains,  and  travelled 
through  a hilly  country,  which  gradually  became  more 
and  more  irregular  as  we  approached  the  River  Quinto, 
which  stream  we  reached  about  noon,  and  halted  on  its 
banks  for  dinner. 

The  country  near  the  river  was  sandy,  and  covered 
with  scattered  thorn-bushes.  The  banks  of  the  Quinto, 
at  the  ford  where  we  camped,  were  high,  and  almost 
perpendicular.  The  bed  of  the  river  appeared  to  be 
formed  of  quicksand  in  agitation,  and  the  current  was 
very  strong.  A few  mud  huts  were  close  to  the  river 
on  each  side,  and  their  occupants  had  a great  quantity 
of  beef  cut  in  strips,  drying  for  winter  use,  together 
with  sliced  pumpkins,  which  two  articles  of  diet  form 
the  principal  support  of  the  people ; the  sterility  of  the 
soil  will  not  support  a healthy  crop  of  corn. 

Large  flocks  of  parrots,  of  a species  that  dig  holes  in 
the  banks  in  which  to  deposit  their  eggs,  like  our  north- 
ern bank  swallows  ( Cotyle  riparia ),  filled  the  air  with 
loud  cries,  and  gave  some  appearance  of  life  to  the 
scene.  The  town  of  Rio  Quinto  was  not  far  off ; but 
as  the  road  lay  in  a different  direction,  I did  not  get  a 
glimpse  of  it,  but,  judging  by  the  few  lazy  natives  that 
I saw,  who  appeared  as  if  laboring  under  mental  de- 
rangement, with  two  prominent  traits  visible,  — selfish- 
ness and  idleness,  — I did  not  feel  that  I was  losing 
much  in  not  visiting  the  place. 


BRUTALITY. 


163 


Dinner  over,  we  prepared  to  move.  Crossing  the 
river,  we  found  the  ascent  of  the  opposite  bank  the 
most  difficult  to  surmount  of  any  obstacle  we  had  met 
on  the  road;  great  exertions  were  made  to  get  the 
carts  up  the  rise,  and  the  oxen  were  most  terribly 
goaded  by  the  drivers.  One  peon,  with  loud  impreca- 
tions, thrust  his  goad  into  an  animal  so  far  that  it  could 
not  be  withdrawn  until  the  iron  was  pulled  out  of  the 
goad-stick,  when  the  man  caught  it,  and  jerked  so 
fiercely,  that  when  it  came  from  the  wound  the  blood 
followed  it  in  a little  stream.  This  exhibition  of  bru- 
tality afforded  satisfaction  to  the  other  drivers,  who 
laughed  at  the  fellow  as  he  cursed  the  ox  for  being  the 
cause  of  the  breaking  of  his  new  picano.  At  last  we 
were  all  across  the  river  and  in  motion. 

The  high  plain  upon  the  opposite  side  was  covered 
with  thorns  and  algarroba,  save  here  and  there  some 
spot  more  fertile  than  the  rest,  which  sustained  a 
growth  of  coarse  grass.  In  crossing  this  tract  the 
wheels  of  the  carts  sank  into  the  deep  ruts  to  the  hubs, 
and  raised  clouds  of  dust  that  were  almost  choking. 

I covered  myself  with  a woollen  poncho,  for  I well 
knew  that  it  was  doubtful  if  an  opportunity  to  bathe 
would  again  present  itself  before  we  reached  San  Luis, 
the  great  town  of  the  interior.  During  the  afternoon 
a little  boy  passed  us,  driving  to  his  house  by  the  river 
a flock  of  goats  and  sheep;  the  last-named  animals 
looked  very  ragged,  from  the  custom  of  the  people,  who 
still  adhere  to  the  old  practice  of  pulling  out  the  wool 
from  the  skin  instead  of  shearing,  at  such  times  and  in 
such  quantities  as  they  need  it. 

As  the  moon  was  a few  days  old,  the  caravan  kept 


1G4 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


on  until  eight  o’clock,  when  it  encamped  on  the  tra- 
vesia. 

The  cattle  were  driven  a long  distance  from  the  road 
to  feed,  but  no  pasturage  was  to  be  had,  and  at  about 
one  o’clock  I was  aroused  by  the  approach  of  the  cattle, 
and  the  loud  cries  of  the  drivers,  who  shouted  “ Fuera ! 
fuera /”  as  they  drove  the  teams  to  the  carts. 

The  moon  had  set,  and  the  night  was  very  dark ; but 
the  necessity  of  moving  at  once  was  obvious,  for  there 
was  no  water  nor. grass  to  be  had  for  many  miles,  and 
both  must  necessarily  be  obtained  at  the  earliest  mo- 
ment for  the  hungry  and  thirsty  beasts. 

We  got  under  way  at  once,  and  travelled  by  land- 
marks which  the  drivers  were  acquainted  with.  As  we 
moved  along  the  plain,  the  noise  of  the  caravan  aroused 
hundreds  of  parrots  from  a roosting-place  among  the 
branches  of  a clump  of  algarrobas.  An  Indian  stam- 
pede could  not  have  created  a more  confused  or  louder 
noise  than  that  of  the  frightened  parrots,  as  they  hov- 
ered over  us  in  a cloud. 


SAN  LUIS  AND  THE  SALINE  DESERT. 


165 


CHAPTER  XL. 

SAN  LUIS  AND  THE  SALINE  DESERT. 

T E travelled  through  the  remainder  of  the  night, 


and  until  near  eleven  o’clock  on  the  follow- 


ing day,  when  we  encamped  at  a place  in  which  there 
was  a fair  pasturage  and  some  water.  Here  we  tar- 
ried until  the  morning  of  the  next  day,  when  we  filled 
our  vessels  with  water,  harnessed  up  the  teams,  and 
started. 

Our  course  lay  through  a country  that  was  dreary  in 
the  extreme,  and  we  had  no  incidents  or  experiences 
that  were  worthy  of  a notice  here. 

My  readers  have  found  in  these  pages  so  many  men- 
tions of  a certain  individual,  the  capatoz , that  they, 
perhaps,  would  like  to  know  him  better. 

As  capatoz , Don  Manuel  Montero  commanded  the 
troop  when  the  patron,  or  owner,  was  absent,  and  his 
services  as  vaqueano , or  guide,  were  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance to  the  welfare  and  success  of  the  caravan. 
Don  Manuel  had  not  the  swarthy  complexion  of  the 
Indian  peons,  but  could  prove  his  superiority  of  birth 
and  family  in  comparison  to  theirs  by  a hue  that  would 
have  been  pronounced  in  the  United  States  decidedly 
yellow,  that  is,  if  his  physiognomy  could  have  been  di- 
vested of  dirt  so  as  to  exhibit  the  true  color ; for  the 


1G6 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


don  loved  not  pure  water  externally  applied,  and  would 
have  been  but  a poor  patron  of  hydropathy,  even  could 
he  have  been  convinced  of  its  wonderful  virtues.  He 
was  of  middle  stature,  and  sat  with  great  dignity  upon 
his  pampa  steed,  which  he  rarely  left  during  the  day ; 
for,  being  a true  gaucho,  he  always  kept  the  saddle  ex- 
cept when  he  was  eating  or  sleeping.  These  two 
necessary  duties  he  attended  to  while  reclining  on  the 
ground  — a position  that  he  always  assumed  when  off 
duty.  To  sleep  within  a hut  or  cart  was  beneath  his 
gaucho  dignity. 

His  hair  hung  in  long  black  locks,  excelled  in  jetti- 
ness  only  by  those  of  Facundo,  my  cook.  His  toilet 
was  attended  to  at  such  times  as  the  same  operations 
were  necessary  for  the  comfort  of  his  dog  Choco,  when 
master  and  animal  shared  the  use  of  the  same  toilet 
articles.  I might  write  a treatise  upon  his  comb,  in 
which  I could  speak  of  its  decayed  and  broken  parts; 
of  its  lusty  and  lively  inhabitants  that  played  hide-and- 
seek  between  the  teeth ; of  a brawny,  lively  creature 
from  the  hair  of  Hon  Manuel  struggling  for  mastery 
with  another  from  the  shaggy  coat  of  dog  Choco. 

As  a guide  the  don’s  skill  was  unrivalled.  Like  most 
vaqueanos  he  was  grave  and  reserved  in  manner,  and 
conversed  but  little  with  the  other  gauchos. 

He  was  familiar  with  every  mile  of  the  road  from  the 
banks  of  the  Parana  to  the  rocky  bases  of  the  Andes. 
He  could  not,  like  the  geographer,  tell  the  exact  longi- 
tude, in  numbers,  of  the  principal  towns  of  the  repub- 
lic, but  he  knew  where  they  were  situated,  and  could 
travel  towards  them  without  missing  the  true  direc- 
tion in  the  darkest  nights. 


THE  VAQUEANO. 


167 


Don  Manuel  never  offered  his  advice  in  a boisterous 
manner,  as  though  in  authority,  but  quietly  said  to  the 
patron , “ Three  leagues  to  the  right  of  the  road  are 
about  thirty  squares  of  good  grass,  and  farther  on  to 
the  left  is  a small  lagoon  of  water  not  yet  dried  up.” 
His  word  was  always  respected,  and  the  usual  answer 
of  the  patron  w^as,  “ Do  as  you  please,  Don  Manuel ; I 
have  confidence  in  your  judgment.” 

A native  author  gives  the  following  description  of 
the  vaqueano , which  will  correctly  apply  to  Don 
Manuel : — 

“ If  lost  upon  the  plain,  he  dismounts,  and  by  exam- 
ining the  soil  decides  upon  his  latitude,  and  tells  his 
companions  the  distance  that  they  are  from  habita- 
tions. If  this  is  not  enough,  he  pulls  grass  from  differ- 
ent localities  and  chews  the  roots,  decides  upon  their 
proximity  to  some  pond  or  rivulet,  fresh  or  salt,  and 
departs  in  search  of  it,  to  decide  upon  his  position. 

“ General  Rosas  can  tell  by  taste  the  grass  of  every 
farm  south  of  Buenos  Ayres. 

“ The  guide  likewise  announces  the  nearness  of  the 
enemy  when  within  ten  miles  of  him,  and  the  direction 
from  which  he  is  coming,  by  means  of  the  movements 
of  birds,  and  by  the  deer  and  wild  llamas  that  run  in 
certain  directions.  When  the  enemy  is  near  at  hand 
he  observes  the  dust,  and  by  its  thickness  counts  the 
force.  He  says  they  number  two  thousand,  five  hun- 
dred, two  hundred,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  the  chief 
acts  under  this  instruction,  which  is  almost  invariably 
correct. 

“If  the  condors  and  vultures  flutter  in  a circle  in 
the  air,  he  can  tell  if  there  are  any  persons  hid,  or  if 


168 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


there  is  an  encampment  recently  abandoned,  or  if  the 
cause  of  their  movements  is  merely  a dead  animal.” 

Such  is  the  true  vaqueano , and  such  was  Don  Man- 
uel. At  noon  we  halted  near  a couple  of  cerros , the 
commencement  of  the  San  Luis  chain  of  mountains. 
The  peons  killed  an  ox,  but  as  there  was  no  grass  for 
the  cattle  we  did  not  remain  long  enough  to  cook  an 
asado.  This  was  the  more  aggravating,  since  we  had 
none  of  us  eaten  anything  since  the  morning  of  the 
previous  day. 

At  two  o’clock  the  caravan  again  halted  — this  time 
to  wrater  the  animals  from  a stream  that  flowed  through 
a quebrada  (valley),  along  which  were  scattered  a few 
ranchos,  whose  inhabitants  lived  on.  pumpkins  and 
porridge,  the  latter  being  valued  at  one  real  per  quart. 
A troop  from  Mendoza  passed  us  at  this  encampment, 
and  I took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  get  rid  of 
some  cut  reals , that  are  current  in  Rosario,  for  several 
bunches  of  grapes.  This  troop  had  also  packed  in 
wicker  baskets  oranges  and  figs,  a quantity  of  which  I 
purchased  to  divide  with  my  friends,  the  old  Indian 
and  the  squaw.  I offered  a bunch  of  grapes  to  Fa- 
cundo,  but  his  sour  disposition  would  not  allow  him  to 
accept. 

From  the  river  the  road  wound  over  a plain  abound- 
ing in  thorn  trees  and  cacti.  Here  also  grew  a low 
plant  bearing  red  berries,  and  resembling  peppers  in 
taste.  The  fruit  was  eagerly  sought  for  by  the  peons, 
who,  throughout  the  remainder  of  the  journey,  sea- 
soned their  stews  with  it. 

At  the  end  of  the  plain  the  barren  mountains  of  San 
Luis  rose  abruptly,  and  seemed  to  form  a barrier  to 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  ANDES. 


169 


farther  progress.  We  entered  a narrow  cleft  in  the 
chain,  and  wound  through  it  for  an  eighth  of  a mile, 
the  voices  of  the  drivers  echoing  among  the  rocks  with 
fine  effect.  But  great  was  my  surprise  when  we  passed 
from  the  defile  to  an  elevated  plain,  to  see  stretched 
out  below  us  the  town  of  San  Luis,  with  its  white 
plastered  dwellings,  half  hidden,  and  shaded  by  tall 
rows  of  poplars,  and  groves  of  green  willows.  It 
brought  to  mind  the  days  of  the  conquest,  so  finely 
described  by  Prescott,  and  I pictured  the  city  below 
me  as  another  Cuzco , inhabited  by  the  children  of  the 
Incas. 

But  this  was  not  all.  Another  sight  caught  my  eye, 
and  filled  me  with  joy.  Far  in  the  distance  a dim, 
blue  light,  pencilled  upon  the  heavens,  told  me  that  I 
had  obtained  my  first  view  of  the  Andes  — that  mighty 
range  of  mountains  which  traverses  two  continents 
and  a dozen  countries,  though  known  by  different 
names. 

What  emotions  were  aroused  within  me  as  I gazed 
at  that  faint  streak  that  seemed  floating  in  the  air,  for 
below  it  all  was  enveloped  in  clouds ! What  visions 
it  awoke  of  steep  precipices,  dark  gorges,  and  rushing 
streams  of  water  falling  in  cascades  from  heights  unat- 
tamable  by  man ! I pictured  myself  in  the  act  of  toil- 
ing up  a narrow  path,  or  sliding  down  the  sides  of  a 
cerro  on  the  snow.  I longed  to  be  there,  and  won- 
dered whether  from  the  lofty  summit  of  the  Cordillera 
I should  be  able  yet  to  gaze  upon  the  distant  waters 
of  the  great  Pacific. 

Above  the  hazy  line  two  points  arose  into  the  clearer 
heavens,  and  from  their  sublime  appearance  particularly 


170 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


attracted  my  attention.  The  highest  of  these  peaks, 
which  lies  to  the  north  of  west  of  Mendoza,  was  the 
famed  Aconcagua,  which,  rising  above  the  line  of  eter- 
nal snows,  attains  an  elevation  of  twenty-three  thousand 
nine  hundred  feet : higher  by  two  thousand  five  hun- 
dred feet  than  that  monarch  of  the  Andes,  Chim- 
borazo. The  other  peak  lies  to  the  south  of  Acon- 
cagua, and  runs  up  sharply  into  the  heavens.  It  has 
been  measured,  by  a recent  traveller,  who  gives  it  an 
elevation  of  twenty-two  thousand  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  or  not  so  high  as 
Aconcagua  by  fourteen  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

As  I viewed  the  distant  picture  with  enthusiasm,  the 
caravan  that  came  lumbering  behind  was  forgotten, 
until  a rough  shake,  and  the  words,  “ Esta  dormien- 
do  f ” aroused  me  to  myself.  Looking  around  I beheld 
the  grinning  features  of  the  capatoz , who  exclaimed, 
“ La  Cordillera  de  los  Andes , que  cosa  tan  rica ! ” 
(The  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  what  a rich  thing !) 

As  we  descended  to  the  town,  a party  of  equestrians, 
male  and  female,  passed  on  the  canter,  and  entered 
before  us.  The  caravan  encamped  alongside  the  mud 
wall  that  defended  the  property  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
I remarked  that  the  women  who  visited  the  troop  did 
not  come  as  venders  of  produce,  but  as  visitors.  These 
females  were  gayly  and  tastefully  dressed,  but  their 
morals  were  questionable.  As  there  were  no  seats 
near  the  fire,  our  capatoz  gallantly  offered  one  of  the 
fair  visitors  his  hat  for  a substitute ; but  she,  with  the 
others,  preferred  their  own  mode  of  sitting,  and  squat- 
ted, a la  Turque , upon  the  sand,  where  they  made 
themselves  sociable,  and  when  supper  was  ready  joined 


SAN  LUIS. 


171 


in  the  meal,  eating  their  meat  without  knives  or  iorks, 
but  using  their  fingers  instead. 

San  Luis  is  the  largest  town  upon  the  road  from 
Rosario  to  Mendoza.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  the  same  name,  and  contains  about  two  thousand 
inhabitants.  This  place  has  varied  greatly  in  its  popu- 
lation within  the  present  century.  In  1825  it  had  two 
churches,  now  it  has  but  one,  and  this,  I afterwards 
learned,  was  not  well  supported  — which  fact  accounts 
for  its  being  so  immoral  a place. 

For  many  years  San  Luis  had  been  governed  by  an 
old,  ignorant  fellow,  just  such  a man  as  Rosas  was  ac- 
customed to  place  over  the  interior  provinces,  in  order 
that  they  might  remain  in  a degraded  state,  and  thus 
be  more  submissive  to  his  power.  A new  governor,  a 
man  of  education  and  energy,  had  taken  the  place  of 
the  old  one  just  removed,  and  under  his  influence  it 
was  hoped  that  the  condition  of  the  people  of  the 
province  might  be  improved.  Formerly  a tax  of  five 
dollars  was  imposed  upon  every  cart  that  passed 
through  the  province,  but  it  has  been  lowered  to  a 
more  reasonable  sum. 

No  town  on  the  pampas  has  suffered  from  the  depre- 
dations of  Indians  as  San  Luis.  While  I was  in  San 
Juan,  two  or  three  months  later,  I became  acquainted 
with  several  Puntanos,  as  the  people  of  this  place  are 
called,  and  from  them  received  much  information  re- 
garding these  encroachments. 

The  Indians  usually  surprise  the  town  about  an 
hour  before  daybreak,  and  not  only  seize  what  property 
they  can  remove,  but  also  carry  off  into  captivity  the 
wives  and  sisters  of  the  male  portion  of  the  inhabit- 


172 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


ants.  While  one  party  is  engaged  in  sacking  the 
town,  another  party  drives  off  all  the  mares  they  can 
find,  as  mare’s  flesh  is  used  as  food  among  them,  and 
if  they  take  horned  cattle,  it  is  only  to  sell  them  to 
Chilenos,  who  cross  the  Andes  by  the  most  southern 
pass  — the  Planchon.  Great  numbers  of  women  and 
children  have  been  carried  off  during  these  frays. 

There  was  living  in  San  Luis,  at  the  time  our  troop 
passed  through  the  place,  an  old  woman  who  was 
stolen  when  a child  from  her  friends.  She  lived  many 
years  with  her  captors,  serving  them  as  a menial,  or 
slave.  Twice  she  attempted  to  escape,  but  each  time 
was  retaken,  and  for  both  attempts  her  feet  were 
skinned  by  the  brutal  savages.  She  made  a third  at- 
tempt, however,  which  was  successful.  Her  captors 
were  away,  hunting  guanacos,  a species  of  llama. 
Secreting  about  her  person  a quantity  of  dried  mare’s 
flesh,  she.  set  out  for  a little  lake,  telling  the  squaws 
that  she  was  going  to  draw  water.  As  soon  as  the 
lake  was  reached  she  struck  out  boldly  into  the  pam- 
pas, shaping  her  course  in  the  direction  of  San  Luis. 

The  Indians,  fortunately,  did  not  overtake  or  find 
her,  and  after  many  days  of  wandering,  she  fell  in  with 
some  gauchos,  who  took  her  to  San  Luis,  and  restored 
her  to  her  friends. 

Another  occurrence  that  was  related  to  me  will  not 
be  without  interest  to  the  reader. 

During  the  California  excitement  a great  number  of 
foreigners  accompanied  caravans  from  Buenos  Ayres 
to  Mendoza,  en  route  for  the  land  of  gold.  Two  or 
three  of  these  caravans  were  troubled  by  the  Indians 
while  on  the  passage  to  San  Luis. 


A VICTORY. 


173 


At  last  one  troop  of  twenty  carts,  which  was  accom- 
panied by  a large  number  of  foreigners,  mostly  French 
and  English,  started  from  Buenos  Ayres,  and  as  the 
men  were  armed  with  double-barrelled  guns  and  six- 
shooters,  they  were  continually  on  the  qui  vive  for  an 
opportunity  to  test  their  weapons  against  the  long 
spears  and  boliadores  of  the  Indians. 

Scouts  were  always  on  the  watch,  but  not  an  Indian 
was  seen.  At  length,  just  before  they  reached  the 
mountains  of  San  Luis,  they  were  met  by  flying  horse- 
men and  terrified  women  from  the  town,  who  informed 
them  that  the  savages  were  among  the  mines  of  La 
Carolina,  some  sixteen  or  eighteen  leagues  to  the 
north,  and  were  plundering  without  mercy.  As  the 
party  were  debating  as  to  their  proper  action,  the  news 
was  brought  that  the  Indians,  harassed  by  a few  troops 
sent  by  the  governor,  were  on  the  retreat.  The  caravan 
was  at  once  drawn  into  a defile  of  the  mountains,  and 
the  white  men  prepared  for  action. 

Soon  the  Indians  were  descried  coming  at  a rapid 
rate,  in  one  body.  Behind  each  savage  were  one  or 
more  female  prisoners  lashed  to  the  rider.  “ It  was  an 
awful  sight,”  said  the  narrator  of  the  story  to  me,  “ when 
we  beheld  the  strangers  point  their  long  guns  at  the 
approaching  party,  among  which  were  our  friends, 
bound  to  their  relentless  captors.” 

Unaware  of  the  proximity  of  strangers,  on  came  the 
galloping  party.  Suddenly  they  fell  back  in  confusion, 
but  too  late  for  retreat,  for  the  discharge  of  nearly  two 
hundred  guns  scattered  death  among  them.  In  an  in- 
stant the  horses  were  freed  from  their  savage  riders, 
who  lay  upon  the  plain  in  the  last  agonies. 


174 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


Great  credit  was  given  to  the  foreigners  who  had 
done  such  service  to  the  province ; and,  followed  by 
hundreds  of  the  natives,  they  marched  the  carts  into 
the  plaza  of  San  Luis,  and  there  remained  several 
days,  feasting  daily  upon  eight  oxen  that  were  pre- 
sented them  by  the  governor.  My  informant  said  that 
such  was  the  skill  of  the  strangers  in  the  use  of  fire- 
arms, that  not  a bird  flew  over  the  plaza  but  it  was 
shot  while  flying,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  the 
townsfolk,  who  will  never  forget  the  visit  of  the 
strangers. 

At  San  Luis  de  la  Punta  the  pampas  end.  On  the 
next  morning,  the  27th  of  April,  when  we  left  the 
town,  our  course  lay  over  a travesia  (desert),  which 
was  wooded,  for  the  first  few  leagues,  with  the  black 
algarroba  ( mata-gusano ),  and  many  other  species  of 
low  thorn  trees  and  bushes.  The  road  was  filled  with 
deep  ruts,  and  as  the  heavy  wagons  passed  along  they 
raised  clouds  of  dust,  that  made  travelling  an  almost 
insupportable  task.  At  night  the  cattle  had  to  be 
driven  some  miles  from  the  road  to  a place  where  a 
little  pasture  was  found.  We  did  not  eat  meat  during 
the  day,  but  I found  that  many  of  the  cacti  bore  a fruit 
at  the  top,  which,  though  nearly  tasteless,  was  better 
than  nothing.  Near  where  we  encamped,  three  peons 
were  loosening  a patch  of  land  with  the  rough  plough 
of  the  country.  They  were  preparing  to  dig  a recep- 
tacle for  the  water  that  falls  during  the  summer  time, 
and  just  behind  two  or  three  ranchos  were  two  of 
these  old  pools,  out  of  which  our  oxen  and  men  drank, 
the  capatoz  paying  six  and  one  fourth  cents  per  head 
for  each  animal.  The  water  could  not  have  been  a foot 


CACTI. 


175 


in  depth,  and  what  kept  it  from  soaking  into  the 
ground  I could  not  tell,  as  the  soil  was  porous  rather 
than  clayey. 

We  resumed  our  march  on  the  following  morning 
without  any  breakfast,  and  kept  on  until  noon,  when 
the  cattle  were  driven  to  a distant  pasture,  and  the 
peons  cooked  an  asado.  We  again  watered  the  oxen 
at  another  dirty  pool,  paying  the  same  price  per  head. 
I was  thirsty,  but  before  I could  get  at  the  water  the 
cattle  were  crowded  in  the  pool,  and  I returned  to  the 
cart  without  any.  Don  Facundo  furnished  me  with  a 
bottle  to  fill.  I gave  it  to  a dirty  urchin,  who  seized  a 
stick,  and  wading  into  the  muddy  pool,  drove  the  oxen 
right  and  left  until  he  had  space  enough  left  to  fill  the 
demijohn.  This  he  succeeded  in  doing,  but  the  con- 
tents were  such  a mixture  that,  to  avoid  swallowing 
dirt,  sticks,  &c.,  I was  obliged  to  strain  it  through  my 
teeth. 

I noticed  in  this  part  of  the  country  a species  of 
cactus  that  had  previously  escaped  my  observation.  It 
grows  about  eighteen  inches  high,  spreads  out  in  large, 
broad  leaves,  and  is  fed  upon  by  cochineal  insects, 
which  the  natives  gather,  and  sell  at  a low  price.  It 
bears  a fruit  which  resembles,  in  form  and  color,  the 
pine-apple,  and  is  about  twice  the  size  of  a hen’s  egg. 
Inside  the  skin  is  a white  pulpy  substance,  filled  with 
small  black  seeds,  and  pleasant  to  the  taste. 

The  little  pepperish  berry  became  more  abundant, 
and,  taking  advantage  of  the  opportunity,  the  peons  put 
large  quantities  in  their  stews,  which  rendered  it  so 
fiery  to  the  taste  that  I was  frequently  obliged  to  go 
supperless. 


176 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


The  travesia  which  we  were  now  upon  was  covered, 
in  greater  or  less  quantity,  with  a peculiar  saline  min- 
eral which  was  new  to  me.  I saved  a small  quantity 
of  it,  and  when  I returned  to  the  United  States,  pre- 
sented it  to  a scientific  association,  with  the  following 
account  of  the  locality  in  which  it  is  found  : — 

“ This  peculiar  mineral  is  found  mixed  with  the  soil, 
in  greater  or  less  abundance,  from  San  Luis  de  la 
Punta  (a  town  on  the  western  side  of  the  pampas  of 
the  Argentine  Republic,  where  the  grass  plains  prop- 
erly end,  and  the  travesia , or  desert,  commences)  to 
the  foot  of  the  Andes. 

“ San  Luis  lies  in  latitude  33°  16'  south,  longitude 
66°  27'  west,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the 
same  name.  From  this  town  westward  the  soil  is 
almost  worthless,  until  the  River  Mendoza  is  reached, 
where  irrigation  commences. 

“ The  soil  is  very  light  and  dry,  and  not  in  the  least 
compact.  This  is  probably  caused  by  the  dryness  of 
the  atmosphere  and  absence  of  water;  for  when  I 
crossed  that  part  of  the  country,  no  water  was  found 
save  that  which  had  been  caught  and  retained  in  holes 
in  the  ground  by  the  natives.  Stones  are  rarely  met 
with,  and  where  they  are  found  I did  not  observe  the 
salt. 

“There  are  several  spots  on  the  travesia  between 
San  Luis  and  Mendoza  furnishing  a poor  quality  of 
grass,  which  is  fed  upon  by  the  cattle  which  are  driven 
across  the  continent  to  the  coast. 

“ With  the  exception  of  these  spots  the  country  be- 
tween the  above  named  towns,  and  extending  many 
leagues  to  the  north  and  south,  is  a desert  waste, 


A MINERAL  DEPOSIT. 


177 


covered  with  a low  growth  of  thorn  hushes  and  a few 
species  of  gnarled  trees,  some  of  which  bear  pods. 

“ The  mineral  penetrates  the  earth  from  a few  inches 
to  a couple  of  feet  in  depth.  It  is  particularly  abun- 
dant at  certain  places  east  of  the  town  of  San  Juan, 
where  the  ground  is  covered  with  a thin  incrustation. 
It  is  here  that  the  reflection  of  the  sun’s  rays  is  ex- 
ceedingly painful  to  the  eyes,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
constantly  affected  with  inflammation  of  those  organs. 

“ The  soil  for  cultivation  must  first  be  prepared,  and 
the  mineral  removed.  The  native  method  of  doing 
this  is  very  simple.  The  water  is  conducted  from  the 
Rivers  Mendoza  and  San  Juan  (which  take  their  rise 
in  the  Cordillera)  through  an  acquia , or  canal,  around 
squares  of  level  land,  at  irregular  intervals  of  time, 
and,  to  use  their  own  expression,  they  wash  off  the 
salitre  (saltpetre).  Then  a plough,  constructed  of  two 
pieces  of  wood,  is  brought  into  service,  and  it  turns  up 
from  six  to  eight  inches  of  the  soil,  which  goes  through 
the  same  washing  process  as  the  first. 

“ After  two  or  three  repetitions  of  this  operation,  a 
shallow  soil  is  obtained,  partially  free  from  salitre , in 
which  wheat,  clover,  pumpkins,  melons,  &c.,  are  raised. 
The  remaining  saltire,  according  to  the  belief  of  the 
natives,  is  exhausted  by  successive  crops,  and  after 
several  years  of  tillage  the  soil  is  suitable  for  the  vine. 
Oranges,  peaches,  quinces,  olives,  figs,  &c.,  flourish. 
Within  a few  years  large  tracts  of  land  have  been 
made  exceedingly  fertile  by  the  process  above  de- 
scribed, and  could  the  New  England  plough  be  intro- 
duced there,  the  process  would  be  far  more  effec- 
tive.” 


12 


178 


A THOUSAND  MILES’.  WALK. 


The  following  analysis  of  the  salt  was  made  by 
Dr.  A.  A.  Hayes,  of  Boston,  a gentleman  well  known  in 
scientific  circles  for  the  care  and  accuracy  with  which 
he  conducts  all  analyses:  — 

“ The  specimen  was  a white,  crystalline  solid,  formed 
by  the  union  of  two  layers  of  salt,  as  often  results  from 
the  evaporation  of  a saline  solution,  when  the  pellicle 
formed  on  the  surface  falls  to  the  bottom.  Along  the 
line  of  junction  crystal  facets  are  seen,  but  the  forms 
are  indistinct.  These  crystals  readily  scratch  calc 
spar,  and  dissolve  without  residue  in  water,  affording  a 
solution,  which,  by  evaporation  at  150°  Fahr.,  leaves 
the  salt  with  some  of  the  original  physical  characters. 
It  readily  parts  with  a portion  of  water  by  heat,  and 
when  the  temperature  is  raised  to  redness,  it  fuses 
quietly  into  a transparent,  colorless,  anhydrous  fluid. 
On  cooling,  an  opaque,  white,  crystalline  solid  remains. 
In  this  climate  the  specimen  attracts  moisture,  and 
therefore  has  not  a fixed  amount  of  water  constitu- 
ent. 

“ It  consists  of  water,  sulphuric  acid,  soda,  magnesia, 
chlorine.  Mixed  with  it  are  traces  of  crenate  of  iron 
and  lime,  with  sandy  grains  of  earth. 

“ One  sample  afforded  — 

Water, 16.420 

Sulphuric  acid,  ....  49.658 

Soda, 23.758 

Magnesia,  ......  9.904 

Chlorine, .260 


100.000 


SALINE  DESERTS. 


179 


“ Three  fragments  from  different  masses  were  taken, 
and  the  following  substances  found : — 


Water,  . 

16.42 

18.84 

19.60 

Sulphate  of  soda, 

. 48.00 

45.82 

45.74 

“ “ magnesia, 

34.20 

33.19 

33.31 

Chloride  sodium, 

. 1.21 

1.79 

1.16 

Crenates  lime  and  iron  ^ 
with  silicic  acid,  j 

; 0.17 

0.30 

0.13 

Sand, 

• 

0.06 

0.06 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

“ The  varying  amounts  of  water  given  are  illustrative 
of  the  absorptive  power  of  the  salts  in  the  atmosphere 
of  this  place.  Dried  at  90°  Fahr.,  the  amount  of  water 
was  15.20  in  100  parts,  which  exceeds  by  four  parts  the 
proportion  necessary  to  form  proto-hydrates  of  the  two 
salts  present. 

“Analysis  does  not  show  the  two  sulphates  to  be  in 
definite  proportions  in  the  masses,  but  the  crystals 
may  be  a double  salt,  composed  of  one  equivalent  of 
sulphate  of  soda  and  one  equivalent  of  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  each  retaining  an  equivalent  of  water.  In 
the  masses,  the  closest  approximation  is  42  parts  of 
sulphate  of  magnesia  found,  instead  of  46  parts  re- 
quired.” 

The  communication  presented  embraces  interesting 
facts.  These  saline  deserts  cover  extended  areas  in 
different  parts  of  South  America,  and,  so  far  as  the 
author  has  been  able  to  learn,  the  saline  matter  differs 
in  kind  at  the  different  points.  The  tendency  of  saline 
matter  contained  in  any  soil  is  to  rise  through  the  aid 


180 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


of  moisture  to  the  surface,  where,  the  water  escaping, 
the  salt  is  deposited.  This  effect,  contrary  to  the  grav- 
itating influence,  is  the  most  common  cause  of  deserts, 
and  may  be  exerted  everywhere  when  the  evapora- 
tion of  water  from  a given  surface  becomes  much 
greater  than  that  surface  receives  in  the  form  of  rain 
and  dew.  The  cultivation  of  saline  deserts,  by  wash- 
ing down  the  saline  matter,  exhibits  the  opposite  ac- 
tion of  water  in  restoring  fertility,  and  it  is  by  no 
means  essential  that  the  water  should  contain  organic 
matter  to  insure  the  full  effect,  as  the  soil  of  deserts 
generally  contains  all  the  organic  matter  of  many 
years’  accumulation. 

An  interesting  inquiry  naturally  presents  itself  to 
the  traveller  while  crossing  this  peculiar  desert.  By 
what  means  was  the  salt  deposited?  Two  theories 
have  been  advanced  by  gentlemen  who  have  visited 
the  travesia , both  to  account  for  its  presence. 

Mr.  Bland,  the  North  American  Commissioner,  who 
visited  the  Argentine  Republic  in  1818,  thinks  that 
these  plains  “may  have  been  gently  lifted  just  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  left  with  a surface  so  un- 
broken and  flat  as  not  yet  to  have  been  sufficiently 
purified  of  its  salt  and  acid  matter,  either  by  filtration 
or  washing.” 

Sir  W.  Parish’s  idea  of  the  origin  of  the  salt  is  dif- 
ferent. He  says,  “ But  is  it  not  more  likely  to  have 
been  washed  down  from  the  secondary  strata,  which 
form  the  base  of  the  Andes,  in  which  we  kpow  that 
enormous  beds  of  salt  abound,  particularly  in  those 
parts  of  the  Cordillera  where  the  greater  number  of 
the  rivers  rise  which  run  through  the  pampas,  and 


SALT  MINES. 


181 


which  are  almost  all  more  or  less  impregnated  with 
it?” 

While  crossing  the  pampas  I occasionally  noticed 
that  the  water  of  some  of  the  streams  was  brackish, 
but  as  we  approached  the  Andes  the  water  of  the 
rivers  was  pure,  and  free  from  salt.  The  San  Juan 
and  Mendoza  Rivers,  both  of  which  may  be  called 
great  torrents,  bring  down  alluvial  mud  in  their  cur- 
rents ; but  I never  was  able  to  detect  any  saline  prop- 
erties either  in  the  mud  or  water.  The  natives,  how- 
ever, have  assured  me  that  there  are  many  salt  mines 
in  the  Andes. 


182 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ON  THE  TRAVESIA. 

ON  the  28th  of  April  our  caravan  crossed  the  River 
Desaguadero,  and  upon  the  western  bank  the 
peons  killed  an  ox,  and  we  ate  for  the  first  time  since 
the  morning  of  the  previous  day.  At  noon  we  reached 
the  limits  of  artificial  irrigation,  which  is  carried  on 
extensively  in  the  neighborhood  of  Mendoza.  Along 
the  road  ran  a shallow  ditch,  four  feet  wide,  and  con- 
taining about  two  inches  of  water,  which,  when  the 
canal  is  full,  fertilizes  the  soil  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  the  Desaguadero,  forty  leagues  from  Men- 
doza, lay  the  hamlet  of  La  Paz,  upon  the  outskirts  of 
which  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Very  different  was 
this  hamlet  from  the  others  we  had  passed,  which 
looked  old  and  squalid,  the  houses  seeming  ready  to 
crumble  in  pieces,  and  little  vegetation,  save  in  San 
Luis,  was  to  be  seen.  Here  everything  looked  neat, 
and  a degree  of  comfort  prevailed  that  was  refreshing 
to  the  eye  of  the  traveller  who  had  just  crossed  a dreary 
country.  This  comfortable  and  fresh  appearance  was 
the  result  of  irrigation,  for  very  little  rain  falls  on  this 
great  travesia,  which  covers  many  thousand  miles  of 
territory  in  the  provinces  of  San  Luis,  Mendoza,  and 
San  Juan ; and  wherever  the  water  of  rivers  can  be 


A COLD  NIGHT. 


183 


turned  from  tlieir  natural  course  to  fertilize  the  broad 
waste  lands,  there  little  spots  of  verdure  appear,  and 
the  labor  of  the  farmer  is  crowned  with  success. 

The  whole  township  of  La  Paz  w'as  divided  into 
square  pastures,  around  which  ran  a wide  canal.  Along 
the  borders  of  these  grew  tall  poplars,  that  served  to 
fence  in  and  protect  the  herds  of  cattle  that  had  been 
brought  from  San  Luis  to  fatten  on  alfalfa , a species  of 
clover.  Our  patron  was  so  parsimonious  that  he  re- 
fused to  purchase  good  pasturage  for  the  cattle,  which 
were  growing  weaker  each  day  on  miserable  fare,  but 
ordered  the  capatoz  to  drive  them  to  a piece  of  waste 
land,  upon  which  grew  a scanty  supply  of  dry  grass. 

The  next  day  we  encamped  a few  leagues  beyond 
the  village,  where  I bought,  and  shared  with  the  peons, 
a couple  of  pumpkins,  some  coarse  bread,  and  a quan- 
tity of  dried  figs,  that  had  been  brought  from  Mendoza. 
Our  road  the  next  day  led  through  woods  of  thorns 
and  algarrobas,  and  occasionally  over  an  open  plain. 

Just  before  dark  we  had  a fine  view  of  the  distant 
Andes,  which  were  now  distinctly  visible.  The  most 
lofty  peaks  were  covered  with  snow,  although  in  many 
places  dark  lines  showed  where  the  rocks  remained  yet 
uncovered. 

The  wind  blew  direct  from  the  west,  and  coming 
from  the  snowy  mountains,  was  very  chilly.  All  night 
I turned  and  rolled  upon  my  hide  in  great  discomfort 
from  the  cold  that  benumbed  my  limbs.  On  the  next 
day,  May  1st,  the  peons  stopped  to  kill  an  ox  close  to 
Las  Casitas,  a village  larger  and  better  than  the  last 
one  we  passed  three  days  before. 

While  the  troop  rested,  a broad-faced,  good-looking 


184 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


fellow  beckoned  from  over  a fence  of  thorns  and  corn- 
stalks for  me  to  come  and  dine  with  him.  I accepted 
his  kind  invitation,  and  he  showed  me  his  hut  and 
grounds ; the  former  was  built  of  cornstalks,  and  was 
well  thatched. 

Upon  the  rafters,  that  projected,  and  formed  a plat- 
form outside  the  hut,  were  piles  of  dried  pumpkins, 
melons,  &c. 

He  informed  me  that  he  had  commenced  improving 
the  land  one  year  before,  and  by  hard  labor,  he,  to- 
gether with  his  wife  and  children,  had  a home,  and 
were  more  plentifully  supplied  with  the  comforts  of  life 
than  any  other  rancho  on  the  road  between  Rosario 
and  Mendoza. 

The  canal  that  ran  past  his  hut  watered  beds  of 
onions,  beans,  garlic,  and  many  other  vegetables  not 
often  found  on  the  road. 

His  wife,  a dark-complexioned  woman,  with  “ para 
servir  a vd”  welcomed  me  to  their  cabin,  and  spread 
upon  a trunk  of  an  algarroba  a small  piece  of  white 
cloth,  and  upon  this  placed  a dish  containing  a stew 
of  beans,  onions,  corn,  and  meat,  well-seasoned  with 
garlic.  They  would  not  receive  anything  for  their  kind- 
ness, but  when  I left  presented  me  with  a fine  pump- 
kin, which  I in  turn  gave  to  the  peons. 

From  this  place  we  travelled  very  slowly  until  four 
o’clock,  when  we  halted  to  feed  the  oxen.  The  peons, 
though  they  had  eaten  heartily  three  hours  before, 
roasted  large  slices  of  meat,  and  ate  a quantity  during 
the  next  half  hour  that  would  have  astonished  the  fol- 
lowers of  Graham.  These  people  can  go  without  eating 
for  an  astonishing  length  of  time ; but  when  an  oppor- 


SANTA  ROSA. 


185 


tunity  offers  for  gormandizing,  they  will  rival  Claudius 
Albinus  himself.  I dare  not  mention  how  many  steaks, 
each  averaging  two  pounds,  Facundo  could  devour  in 
a day ; nor  should  I wish  to  state  that  he  thought  noth- 
ing of  eating  three  pumpkins  at  a single  meal. 

At  dusk  the  creaking  of  wheels  and  loud  cries  of 
men  announced  that  a troop  from  Mendoza  was  ap- 
proaching, and  a young  man  came  galloping  in  advance, 
and  greeted  our  patron  as  an  old  acquaintance.  The 
oxen  of  the  troop,  fresh  from  Mendoza,  contrasted 
strangely  with  our  lean  animals,  some  of  which  could 
scarcely  walk. 

The  next  morning  we  were  on  the  road  very  early, 
for  it  now  became  evident  that  unless  our  journey  was 
soon  terminated  our  cattle  would  give  out;  and  the 
carts  thus  situated  would  be  in  an  unlucky  situation. 

The  next  town  was  Santa  Rosa,  once  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Jesuits,  who  held  religious  sway  over  all 
the  parnpa  territories  when  the  country  was  under  the 
control  of  Spain. 

The  place  was  nothing  more  than  a collection  of 
mud  huts  and  corn  ranchos.  The  inhabitants,  however, 
supported  a small  store. 

The  only  signs  of  life  in  the  hamlet  were  from  a 
party  of  women  weaving,  and  two  or  three  half-Indian 
girls  chasing  a flock  of  goats  and  sheep.  The  country 
around  the  place  was  covered  with  low  bushes,  and, 
judging  by  appearances,  I concluded  that  the  place  had 
seen  its  best  days.  Many  poor  families  were  supported 
by  a flock  of  twenty  or  thirty  goats  and  sheep,  the  lat- 
ter providing  sufficient  wool,  from  which  their  garments 
were  made ; and  as  the  goats  breed  twice  a year,  they 


186 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


had  plenty  of  animal  food  to  satisfy  their  wants.  Be- 
yond this  place  our  caravan  entered  a straight,  broad 
road,  shaded  with  tall  poplars,  which  were  planted  in 
regular  rows  on  each  side  of  the  street,  and  afforded  a 
pleasant  shade  for  the  traveller. 

Following  the  road  for  two  or  three  miles,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night  in  Alto  Yerde,  where  were  the 
best  houses  seen  by  us  since  leaving  Rosario.  The 
frames  were  of  poplar,  and  were  well  put  together,  the 
roof  projecting  sufficiently  to  form  a veranda.  All  arti- 
cles of  food  were  cheaper  here  than  at  any  of  the  towns 
passed  by  our  troop.  Three  or  four  large  watermelons 
were  given  for  a medio  (6J  cents),  and  two  loaves  of 
bread  for  the  same  amount  of  money. 

During  the  day  following  we  passed  scattered  houses, 
and  large  pastures  of  alfalfa , separated  from  each  other 
by  fences  of  growing  poplars.  Our  patron  now  felt 
compelled  to  purchase  fodder  for  the  oxen,  and  he  ob- 
tained the  privilege  of  pasturing  them  for  the  night, 
and  until  the  day  following,  for  three  dollars ; which, 
considering  the  number  of  animals  (over  one  hundred), 
was  a very  small  sum. 

As  we  encamped  in  the  highway,  we  were  disturbed 
in  our  slumbers  all  the  night  by  the  numerous  troops  of 
mules  and  racing  gauchos  who  were  continually  pass- 
ing and  repassing,  while  flocks  of  wild  fowl  flew  over 
our  carts,  shaping  their  course  to  the  south.  The  fol- 
lowing morning  we  reached  Villa  Nueva.  The  roads 
were  very  sandy,  which  gave  great  trouble  to  the  oxen. 
Before  taking  our  last  meal  we  halted  for  the  night. 

On  the  next  morning  we  started  very  early,  follow- 
ing a lonely  road,  without  seeing  a rancho.  About 


GOITRE. 


187 


* 

noon  we  crossed  the  River  Mendoza,  which,  at  the 
place  of  crossing,  was  narrow,  with  a current  setting  to 
the  northward.  I had  some  difficulty  in  effecting  a 
passage  without  getting  wet. 

While  the  carts  were  forming  a double  line,  and  com- 
mencing other  preparations  for  halting,  I disrobed,  and, 
under  cover  of  some  stunted  bushes,  bathed  in  the  cold 
stream. 

This  was  the  third  bath  that  I had  enjoyed  since 
leaving  Rosario.  The  peons  laughed  derisively  at  a 
gringo  who  could  not  travel  eight  hundred  miles  with- 
out washing  himself.  These  disgusting  fellows,  with 
one  or  two  exceptions,  had  not  applied  water  to  their 
skin  for  more  than  forty  days,  and  did  not  intend  to 
cleanse  themselves  until  the  troop  was  close  upon 
Mendoza. 

From  a few  mud  houses  beyond  a rising  ground,  not 
far  from  the  river,  came  several  men  and  women,  bring- 
ing peaches  and  melons  in  their  ponchos,  together  with 
baskets  of  native  manufacture,  filled  with  two  kinds  of 
grapes,  one  variety  of  which  was  the  white  Muscatel. 
At  different  points  near  this  river  my  attention  had 
been  attracted  by  a disease  very  prevalent  among  the 
people,  which  exhibited  itself  in  the  form  of  a large 
swelling  upon  the  throat,  and  was  called  by  the  natives 
the  cote  (goitre). 

One  poor  fellow,  who  had  a very  large  cote , informed 
me  that  it  was  caused  by  drinking  the  water  of  the 
stream,  and  that  large  swellings  had  come  out  upon 
his  thighs,  from  laboring  several  weeks  in  the  water. 

A young  cow  that  had  been  purchased  on  the  road 
was  the  only  tender  meat  that  we  had  eaten  since  leav- 


188 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


ing  Rosario.  The  peons  gorged  themselves  until  they 
could  eat  no  more,  and  ate,  perhaps,  more  than  they 
would  have  done  had  not  the  patron  been  absent ; he 
had  gone  to  Mendoza  in  order  to  advertise  in  the  only 
paper  in  the  province  that  his  troop  would  make  its 
entree  into  the  Plaza  Nueva  on  the  following  day. 

Owing  to  our  proximity  to  the  great  town,  several 
of  the  Santia  guenos  changed  their  minds  about  ablu- 
. tions,  and  busied  themselves  in  making  preparations 
for  the  entree.  I watched  their  movements  with  con- 
siderable interest,  for  in  making  their  toilet  the  comb 
of  Don  Manuel  passed  around  the  group,  and  received 
generous  patronage,  the  little  dog  that  belonged  to  my 
friend  and  the  woman  coming  in  for  their  share  of  its 
use. 

The  ball  having  once  been  set  in  motion,  the  excite- 
ment to  appear  neat  became  so  great  that  some  of  the 
peons  actually  shook  the  dust  out  of  their  chiropas,  and 
put  on  clean  drawers,  that  had  been  long  kept  for  some 
great  occasion.  While  the  men  beat  their  ponchos 
upon  the  wagon-wheels,  the  woman  entered  a cart  to 
make  her  toilet ; and  so  changed  was  her  appearance 
an  hour  after,  when  she  appeared  clad  in  a new  calico 
dress,  with  her  hair  neatly  plaited  in  two  braids,  after 
the  fashion,  formerly,  of  young  girls  in  our  own  coun- 
try, that  I involuntarily  raised  my  sombrero,  which  at- 
tention she  very  pleasantly  acknowledged.  But,  as  is 
usually  the  case  with  mothers,  she  had  expended  the 
principal  part  of  her  labor  arid  finery  upon  her  little 
girl,  whose  appearance  had  been  greatly  improved. 

An  hour  before  she  had  run  along  the  banks  of  the 
river  barefooted,  and  with  hair  streaming  in  the  wind ; 


A CHANGE  OP  DRESS. 


189 


but  now,  with  hair  smoothly  combed,  and  little  body 
decked  out  in  a gay  tunic,  her  black  eyes  sparkling 
with  fun,  she  seemed  to  have  been  transformed  from  a 
wild  Indian  girl  into  an  interesting  little  lady. 

After  again  eating,  the  troop  moved  on  until  sunset, 
passing  several  dilapidated  houses,  and  two  or  three 
dirty  pulperias  (stores).  Our  camping-ground  proved 
to  be  a bad  selection,  as  it  was  on  a low  plain,  part 
morass,  and  covered  with  tall  weeds.  The  peons  tried 
to  compel  me  to  fill  the  jars  with  water  at  a pond,  the 
direction  of  which  they  pointed  out  to  me  in  the  dark; 
but  I informed  them,  through  a little  fellow  that  spoke 
Spanish,  that,  as  I was  aware  of  our  proximity  to  Men- 
doza, all  further  orders  from  them  would  be  disregarded. 
Furthermore,  I stated  that  there  were  people  in  the 
town  which  we  were  soon  to  enter  who  could  converse 
equally  well  in  English  and  in  Spanish,  and  if  they,  the 
peons,  attempted  any  more  insulting  acts,  the  matter 
would  be  exposed.  This  answer  they  evidently  did 
not  relish,  for  they  became  very  angry,  and  conversed 
among  themselves  in  their  own  language,  evidently 
making  threats  of  some  kind  against  me. 

Before  retiring,  I conversed  with  the  old  Indian, 
who  was  my  friend,  and  he  promised  to  receive  my 
little  property,  snugly  packed  in  a canvas  bag,  into  his 
cart. 

The  night  passed  without  any  incident,  and  when 
daylight  came  we  were  already  on  the  march.  As  the 
troop  was  not  to  enter  the  town  until  the  following 
morning,  I partook  of  an  asado  for  the  last  time,  and, 
discarding  my  pampa  costume,  and  dressing  after  the 
fashion  of  civilized  men,  I set  out  in  advance  of  the 


190 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


company  for  Mendoza,  which  was  twelve  miles  distant. 
The  whole  plain,  over  which  our  road  lay,  was  covered 
with  a curious  bush,  growing  in  clumps  from  three  to 
six  inches  in  height,  and  bearing  a yellow  pod,  resem- 
bling in  shape  a screw.  The  houses  that  were  scat- 
tered along  the  road  were  built  in  the  old  Spanish 
style.  When  within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  town, 
a continuous  line  of  buildings  commenced,  which  was 
broken  only  by  green  pastures  of  alfalfa , surrounded 
by  mud  walls  and  extensive  vineyards,  the  vines  of 
which  bent  to  the  ground  from  the  weight  of  the  fruit 
they  bore. 

Upon  the  walls  of  the  houses,  suspended  from  canes, 
hung,  drying  in  the  sun,  bunches  of  the  fruit  just  men- 
tioned ; and,  seeing  a great  number  of  casks  and  barrels 
in  almost  every  yard,  I judged  that  each  farmer  manu- 
factured his  own  wine. 

Oranges,  lemons,  limes,  peaches,  and  olives  were 
everywhere  abundant,  while  occasionally  the  eye  rested 
with  pleasure  upon  a pomegranate,  or  palm-tree. 

Within  the  yards,  surrounded  by  high  enclosures, 
were  piles  of  melons  and  pumpkins ; and  ranges  of  jars, 
filled  with  olives  just  stripped  from  the  trees,  stood  be- 
neath the  verandas  of  the  houses. 

The  people  seemed  very  hospitable.  Twice  the  pro- 
prietors of  different  quintas  came  out,  and  persuaded 
me  to  enter  their  residences  and  partake  of  food,  say- 
ing that  everything  they  possessed  was  at  my  disposal, 
and  that  the  foreigners  received  their  great  respect. 

“ How  knew  you  that  I was  a foreigner  ? ” I asked. 

“By  your  countenance  and  vour  walk,”  was  the 
reply. 


AN  IMPOLITE  DOCTOR. 


191 


An  old  man  detained  me  a long  time  to  inquire  the  - 
prices  of  North  American  goods. 

“ What  is  the  value  of  this  article  in  your  country  ? ” 
he  asked,  holding  up  to  my  view  a cheap  earthen  mug. 

“ About  a medio,”  I replied. 

“ What  rogues ! ” he  exclaimed.  “ In  Mendoza  they 
charged  me  three  times  that  sum.  Tell  me,  friend,  why 
did  you  neglect  to  bring  some  with  you?  You  would 
have  been  a rich  man  soon.” 

The  day  was  the  Sabbath,  which  is  regarded  as  a 
holiday  in  this  country.  The  pulperias  by  the  road- 
side were  thronged  by  the  gauchos,  some  gambling, 
and  others  dancing  to  the  sound  of  the  guitar,  while  a 
few  lay  drunk  upon  the  ground.  About  two  o’clock, 
after  leaping  several  streams  of  water  that  ran  along 
the  streets,  I entered  Mendoza,  and,  after  many  unsuc- 
cessful inquiries,  found  myself  in  the  calle  de  comercio , 
where  I luckily  met  with  a Frenchman  who  spoke  a 
little  English,  and  to  him  made  known  my  wishes  re- 
garding my  proposed  journey  across  the  Andes  to  Chili. 

The  Frenchman  informed  me  that  an  English  physi- 
cian, Dr.  D.,  who  had  resided  several  years  in  Mendoza, 
and  had  ingratiated  himself  into  the  favor  of  the  gov- 
ernment, was  just  the  person  to  apply  to,  as  he  could 
give  me  any  information  relative  to  the  Chili  road.  At 
the  moment  the  doctor  himself  came  up,  mounted  upon 
a fine  horse,  and  returning  from  a visit  to  the  country. 

I handed  him  the  letters  given  me  by  Mr.  Graham, 
and  inquired  if  either  of  the  two  persons  to  whom  they 
were  directed  were  in  Mendoza ; he  returned  them  to 
me,  rather  brusquely  saying  that  he  was  not  an  Ameri- 
can physician ; and  as  for  Mr.  Allen  Campbell,  he  had 


192 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


left  two  months  ago  for  Santa  Fe.  In  as  delicate  a 
manner  as  possible,  I informed  Dr.  D.  of  my  object  in 
visiting  his  adopted  country ; that  I was  a stranger,  and 
unacquainted  with  the  language,  and  hinted  that  if 
some  person  conversant  with  the  dialect  would  make 
inquiries  regarding  troops  of  mules  that  might  be  leav- 
ing for  Chili,  he  would  be  doing  me  a favor  that  I could 
not  too  highly  appreciate.  To  this  the  doctor  drew 
himself  up  stiffly,  and  replied,  impatiently, — 

“ If  you  wish  to  cross  to  Chili,  the  only  method  of 
procuring  necessary  information  is  to  inquire  of  tho^  na- 
tive merchants,  who  often  send  troops  across  the  Cor- 
dillera. According  to  the  last  accounts  the  mountains 
were  passable,  though  the  Chili  mail  has  not  yet  ar- 
rived.” 

I answered,  “ Doctor,  I am  unacquainted  with  the 
language,  save  the  little  I have  acquired  upon  the  road ; 
and  if  several  days  are  lost  by  me  in  fruitless  inquiry, 
the  mountains  will  be  closed,  and  I shall  be  obliged  to 
remain  here  for  the  next  six  months.” 

“ V ery  well,”  he  answered,  touching  his  horse  at  the 
same  time  with  his  silver  spurs.  “ It  is  only  among  the 
merchants  that  you  will  receive  the  information.”  And 
he  was  soon  out  of  sight. 

The  Frenchman,  who  had  been  a listener  to  the  con- 
versation, exclaimed,  energetically,  “Vat  a tam  fool! 
He  might  speak  one  word,  and  find  plentee  mules  going 
to  Chili : he  much  puffed  up  with  practeese.  Come  to 
my  home,  and  I will  find  you  a troop  of  mules  to-mor- 
row. I loves  the  Americans;  they  is  tam  goot  fel- 
lows!” 

On  our  way  to  his  lodgings,  my  new  acquaintance 


THE  OLYMPIC  CIRCUS. 


193 


suddenly  remembered  that  there  was  a party  of  North 
Americans  in  town,  and  at  my  request  he  led  me  to 
their  house.  They  were  professional  gentlemen,  my 
guide  said,  but  of  what  particular  branch  of  science  he 
could  not  tell.  Never  was  I more  surprised  than  when 
the  Frenchman  introduced  me  to  four  young  men, 
whose  flag,  as  it  waved  above  their  house,  announced 
them  as  the  Circo  Olimpico  (Olympic  Circus),  from 
North  Ameiica.  The  director  of  the  company,  Mr. 
Daniel  H.,  of  Utica,  New  York,  had  left  the  States  for 
Mexico  thirteen  years  before,  and  was  with  the  Ameri- 
can army  through  the  war  between  the  two  republics. 

After  peace  had  been  established,  he  freighted  a 
small  vessel,  and,  landing  upon  the  northern  coast  of 
South  America,  had  since  travelled  over  nearly  all  the 
countries  of  the  continent. 

Of  the  original  number  that  left  with  him,  he  was 
the  only  survivor.  As  soon  as  one  performer  had  died, 
or  retired  from  the  profession,  some  strolling  provistoro 
was  always  found  to  fill  the  vacancy. 

While  the  company  travelled  in  the  upper  countries 
of  Bolivia,  Peru,  New  Granada,  and  Ecuador,  success 
followed  them;  for  silver  is  more  plenty  among  the 
middle  and  poorer  classes  of  those  republics  that  abound 
in  rich  mines  than  in  the  Argentine  Republic.  Here 
their  good  fortune  deserted  them.  They  had  crossed 
over  the  vast  pampa  country,  and,  by  giving  here  and 
there  a granfuncion , had  taken  money  enough  to  en- 
able them  to  reach  Mendoza.  Mr.  H.  informed  me 
that  he  should  follow  along  the  sierras  of  the  Andes, 
and  cross  the  great  travesia  that  covers  several  of  the 
upper  provinces,  until  he  reached  Potosi,  and  from  Bo- 
13 


194 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


livia  the  company  would  cross  the  Cordillera  to  Peru, 
where  better  luck  would  surely  meet  them. 

Being  the  latest  arrival  from  North  America,  I had 
to  answer  many  questions,  as  they  had  not  heard  from 
that  countrv  since  leaving  the  Parana,  twelve  months 
before.  At  dusk  a negro  band  played  an  air  that  was 
very  popular  in  the  United  States  nine  years  before. 
With  all  the  facilities  of  communication  that  exist  be- 
tween the  two  countries,  the  song  and  accompanying 
music  had  just  reached  Mendoza,  a town  supposed  by 
its  inhabitants  to  be  first  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and 
refinement. 

The  following  morning  I visited  the  Plaza  Nueva, 
where  the  carts  of  our  caravan  were  discharging  their 
cargoes,  and  received  from  the  old  Indian  my  bag. 

We  parted  pleasantly,  and  I only  regretted  that  my 
present  to  him  could  not  have  been  as  great,  propor- 
tionately, as  my  regard  for  him.  The  patron  and  capa- 
toz  commended  me  to  the  care  of  my  Maker,  and 
wished  that  many  years  might  be  added  to  my  life,  to 
which  civil  speech  I made  an  appropriate  reply.  As 
for  the  peons,  they  said  nothing,  nor  even  comforted 
me  with  a single  glance  or  nod  of  good  feeling. 


MENDOZA. 


195 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

MENDOZA. 

TWO  or  three  days  were  passed  in  inquiring  for  a 
troop  of  mules  bound  for  Chili,  but  no  information 
could  be  obtained  of  any,  and  I afterwards  learned  that 
the  last  troop  of  the  season  had  left  Mendoza  on  the 
day  after  my  arrival,  and  had  barely  succeeded  in 
reaching  Chili  with  their  lives. 

For  twenty-one  days  the  Andes  were  enveloped  in 
clouds,  the  dark  and  portentous  appearance  of  which 
was  terrible  to  behold.  I passed  hours  of  each  day  in 
watching  the  fierce  temporales , as  the  natives  called 
them,  that  came  rolling  along  the  summit  of  the 
sierras  from  the  regions  of  Cape  Horn,  covering,  in 
their  mad  career,  whole  ranges  of  mountains  in  a man- 
tle of  snow.  To  have  attempted  a passage  at  that 
time  would  have  been  certain  death ; so  with  all  the 
philosophy  that  could  be  drawn  from  irremediable  dis- 
appointment, I became  resigned  to  my  fate  to  remain 
in  the  interior  of  the  country  until  the  genial  sun  of 
another  spring  should  melt  the  snow-drifts  that  blocked 
up  the  passes  of  the  Andes. 

The  old  Spanish  town  of  Mendoza  is  situated  in  lati- 
tude 32°  51'  south,  longitude  67°  57'  west,  at  the  foot 
of  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  Andes.  It  was  laid  out 


196 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


in  cuadras , or  squares,  the  sides  of  which  were  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  long.  It  contained,  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  nearly  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Of 
the  two  plazas  the  Independence  was  the  most  cele- 
brated, because  of  the  fountain  it  contained.  This 
fountain,  however,  was  dry  when  I was  there,  the 
aqueduct  having  become  choked  with  leaves  and 
stones;  it  had  been  permitted  to  remain  in  this 
useless  state  for  some  time,  and  I was  of  the  opinion 
that  it  would  still  continue  dry,  as  no  attempt  was 
made  to  clear  it  out,  and  no  plan  was  discussed  by 
which  it  might  in  the  future  be  again  in  operation. 

The  Alameda , a much-talked-of  public  walk  on  the 
side  of  the  town  nearest  the  mountains,  was  resorted 
to  by  all  classes.  An  artificial  canal  flowed  beside  the 
principal  walk,  watering  a row  of  fine  poplars,  beneath 
which  were  a few  stone  seats,  where  I often  sat  and 
watched  the  different  classes  of  the  Mendozinos  prom- 
enading after  the  siesta. 

In  a little  mud  hut,  kept  by  a Chilino,  I was  sur- 
prised to  find  a luxury  not  often  met  with  in  southern 
countries.  Ice  was  brought  from  the  mountains  on 
mules,  and  the  inhabitants  were  enabled  to  enjoy  their 
creams  at  a trifling  expense.  It  was  in  the  Alameda 
that  I sometimes  had  a glimpse  of  the  governor  of  the 
province  of  Mendoza  — Don  Pedro  Pascual  Segura. 
He  was  a man  small  in  stature,  and  this  characteristic 
seemed  to  be  general  in  the  different  traits  of  his  charac- 
ter, for  he  was  of  little  energy,  and  had,  consequently, 
little  of  the  rascality  of  his  predecessors.  He  was  liter- 
ally small  in  everything,  as  the  following  incident  will 
show. 


A MEAN  MAN. 


197 


The  Mendoza  band  belonged  to  the  government,  and 
Don  Pedro  had  disposed  of  their  services  by  contract, 
for  a certain  sum  of  money,  to  the  theatrical  company 
of  Senor  Rodenas,  who  had  established  himself  in  the 
town  a short  time  before  my  arrival.  The  North 
American  Circus  Company  came  into  the  place  soon 
after,  and  the  director  presented  the  governor  his  com- 
pliments and  a season  ticket  to  the  performances.  As 
the  circus  company  wished  to  perform  on  the  same 
evening  as  the  company  of  Senor  Rodenas,  and  by  so 
doing  could  not  obtain  the  services  of  the  band,  the 
governor,  without  further  ceremony,  broke  the  contract 
with  the  theatre,  and  ordered  half  the  musicians  to 
the  house  of  the  North  Americans.  This  unjust  act 
greatly  injured  the  native  performers,  who  were  poor, 
and  had  but  just  arrived  from  a distant  part  of  the 
country. 

The  houses  of  Mendoza  were  one  story  high,  and,  un- 
like those  of  Buenos  Ayres,  were  built  of  adobes , which 
were  covered  with  mud  and  whitewashed.  These,  like 
the  dwellings  of  that  city,  had  a dreary,  prison-like  ap- 
pearance. The  patio , or  yard,  was  in  the  centre  of  the 
building,  and  was  accessible  by  a large,  heavy  door, 
called  the  puerto-calle.  A door  from  each  room  opened 
into  the  yard,  where,  in  the  summer  months,  the  house- 
hold, including  servants,  usually  slept,  for  the  climate 
near  the  mountains  has  not  the  heavy  dews  of  the 
pampas.  The  roofs  were  generally  of  mud,  plastered 
upon  canes,  bound  together  by  strips  of  hide,  which 
rested  upon  a rough  frame  of  willow,  poplar,  and  a 
hard  kind  of  wood  resembling  the  algarroba.  The 
adobes  were  made  near  the  spot  where  the  building 


198 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


was  to  be  erected  when  sufficient  material  could  be 
procured.  Mud,  trodden  fine  by  horses  and  mixed 
with  straw,  was  placed  in  moulds  about  twenty  by 
eight  inches,  and  four  or  five  deep,  and,  after  being  re- 
moved, the  adobe  was  allowed  to  dry  in  the  sun’s  heat 
for  two  or  three  weeks.  Outside  the  town  a rough, 
square  brick  was  made,  which  served  to  floor  the 
houses  of  the  rich,  and  was  covered  by  a carpet  of 
European  manufacture. 

The  town,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  was  liberally  sup- 
plied with  churches,  and  had  a convent.  The  priests 
bore  a much  better  character  than  those  of  the  northern 
countries  of  the  continent,  as  in  most  places  where 
Catholicism  exists  they  have  a strong  influence  over 
the  lower  classes,  and  fill  the  narrow  streets  of  the 
town  with  processions,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  every 
one  who  is  obliged  to  kneel  uncovered  as  they  pass 
along.  One  foreigner  told  me  that  when  he  entered 
the  place  for  the  first  time,  he  halted  his  horse  in  the 
plaza,  through  which  a crowd  of  people  were  hurrying 
with  lighted  candles  and  crucifixes.  The  priest  observ- 
ing that  he  did  not  recognize,  by  humiliating  himself, 
the  respect  due  them,  sent  a vigilante,  who  threatened 
to  run  him  through  with  the  bayonet  if  he  did  not  dis- 
mount from  his  horse  and  kneel  upon  the  ground. 
There  being  no  protecting  power  nearer  than  Buenos 
Ayres,  or  Santiago  in  Chili,  a foreigner  must  go  through 
these  debasing  forms,  do  homage  to  man,  or  feel  the 
point  of  the  bayonet  or  sword,  “ for  there  is  no  pro- 
tection for  gringos  in  the  provinces  north  and  west  of 
Buenos  Ayres.” 

This  I had  told  me  more  than  once  by  officers  of  the 


EXTREME  PIETY. 


199 


government  of  this  republic  that  pretends  to  copy  the 
principles  that  have  been  expounded  by  Washington, 
Jefferson,  Adams,  and  Lafayette.  I always  kept  a 
bright  lookout  when  abroad,  and  the  instant  the  shaven 
heads  of  the  good  fathers  appeared  I turned  the  first 
corner,  and  stopped  not  until  two  squares  were  be- 
tween us. 

At  a certain  season  of  the  year  a mock  Christ  was 
crucified  by  the  priests.  The  deluded  people,  believing 
it  to  be  the  true  Savior,  wept  as  they  beat  their 
breasts,  and  cried  out  with  compassion.  At  these  and 
other  services  of  the  church,  as  the  mass  and  vesper 
prayer,  the  men  formed  a very  small  portion  of  the 
congregation,  but  the  women  were  constant  attend- 
ants, and  were  continually  at  the  confessional. 

One  young  lady  with  whom  I was  acquainted  made 
it  a rule  to  confess  three  times  a week.  This  she  con- 
tinued to  do  for  the  space  of  one  year,  when  good 
Father  Maximo  became  so  weary  of  her  appearance  or 
of  her  sins,  that  he  told  her  to  come  once  in  seven 
days,  and  he  would  pardon  the  whole  at  once.  Every 
morning  the  early  riser  met  with  little  parties  of 
females  returning  from  early  mass,  chatting  pleasantly 
as  they  proceeded  to  their  homes.  Each  female  who 
could  afford  it  had  a servant,  who  followed  behind  with 
an  alfombra  (mat),  upon  which  the  lady  sat  while  in 
church.  The  children  always  went  on  before,  that  they 
might  be  under  the  eye  of  the  matron  who  watched 
them,  particularly  if  they  were  young  ladies,  with  a 
degree  of  vigilance  equal  to  that  of  the  duenazas  of 
old  Spain. 

While  speaking  of  churches  and  church-goers  I will 


200 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


not  omit  mentioning  a few  facts  relative  to  one  Padre 
A.  and  his  family,  whose  fame  is  wide-spread  in  the 
other  provinces  of  the  republic.  This  A.  was  a priest 
in  the  church  of  San  Domingo,  and,  breaking  his  vow, 
acquainted  Rosas  with  the  thoughts  and  actions  of 
those  who  had  unbosomed  themselves  to  him. 

His  villanous  character  began  to  show  itself,  and 
throwing  aside  the  padre’s  cloak,  he  took  the  sword, 
and  became  one  of  the  bloodiest  generals  that  Mendoza 
had  ever  supported.  His  deeds  of  cruelty  made  him 
known  throughout  the  country.  His  family,  which 
had,  during  his  career,  enjoyed  a notoriety,  sank  into 
obscurity  after  his  death. 

Several  years  since,  a daughter  of  the  padre,  who  had 
distinguished  herself  for  her  licentious  conduct,  per- 
formed a journey,  in  company  with  her  sister  and  an- 
other young  lady,  — all  wild  girls,  — that  proved  no 
less  disastrous  than  it  was  foolish  in  design. 

The  three  girls,  attired  in  gaucho  costume,  set  out 
on  horseback,  and  not  with  side-saddles,  to  cross  the 
Cordillera  of  the  Andes.  The  trip  was  successful. 
They  entered  Chili  without  meeting  any  obstacle  to 
mar  their  happiness,  and  after  having  passed  a few 
weeks  with  friends,  started  to  return  to  the  Argentine 
Republic.  The  guides  warned  them  of  coming  tem- 
porales , but  they  had  tarried  from  home  too  long  to  pro- 
tract their  stay;  perhaps  to  be  obliged  to  remain  in  Chili 
until  the  winter’s  snows  were  gone.  They  entered  the 
mountains,  and  somewhere  near  the  Cumbre  pass,  a 
storm  broke  upon  them,  and  only  two  of  the  females 
escaped  with  their  lives. 

Each  church  in  Mendoza  had  several  bells,  which 


THEATRE  AT  MENDOZA. 


201 


were  far  from  melodious,  having  a tinkling  sound,  and 
the  manner  in  which  they  were  rung  reminded  me  of 
our  national  air.  But  the  people  were  well  satisfied 
with  these  discordant  sounds,  and  one  of  the  priests, 
who  had  returned  from  a visit  to  England,  on  being 
asked  how  he  liked  that  country,  replied,  — 

“ England  is  a fine  country,  superior  to  ours  in  every- 
thing save  one  — the  English  do  not  know  how  to 
chime  their  bells.” 

A theatre  of  two  stories  in  height  had  been  built  un- 
der the  supervision  and  at  the  expense  of  a certain 
“scientific  gentleman,”  and  though  the  building  was 
but  a whitewashed  structure,  it  raised  the  gentleman 
to  enviable  fame.  He  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  a pro- 
found man,  a geologist  and  astronomer,  and  further- 
more the  government  would  not  raise  a wall  or  dig  an 
acquia  without  first  consulting  Don  Carlos’s  opinion. 
Though  a native  of  the  country,  he  assumed  to  be  an 
Italian,  but  did  not  succeed  in  convincing  the  people 
to  that  effect  when  I left  Mendoza.  I was  told  that 
the  don  had  acquired  his  principal  knowledge  of  en- 
gineering, &c.,  while  assisting  Lieutenant  Archibald 
Macrae,  of  the  United  States  Naval  Astronomical  Ex- 
pedition, two  or  three  years  before,  in  taking  the  alti- 
tudes of  certain  places  in  the  Andes.  Don  Carlos 
occasionally  turned  aside  from  his  researches  in  science, 
and  amused  himself,  or  became  the  amuser  of  the  more 
talented  portion  of  the  Mendozinos.  Once  he  collect- 
ed an  eager  crowd  of  people  by  mounting  the  roof  of 
a house,  and  pretending,  by  means  of  the  needle  of  the 
compass,  to  determine  the  course  and  distance  of  a 
comet,  which,  with  fiery  tail,  looked  so  ominously  as  to 


202 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


cause  many  of  the  gaucho  population  to  believe  that 
the  town  was  about  to  be  destroyed. 

I was  convinced  that  the  Mendozinos  were  the  most 
peaceable  and  hospitable  people  of  the  republic,  and 
showed  more  respect  to  foreigners  than  was  customary 
where  the  old  dogmas  and  customs  of  the  Spanish  pre- 
vailed. I could  not  perceive  any  difference  between 
the  higher  classes  of  this  town  and  those  of  Buenos 
Ayres  in  the  matter  of  complexion. 

They  had  as  light  skins  as  any  Spaniard  that  I had 
met  in  the  last  named  city,  and  generally  retained  the 
purity  of  blood.  The  lower  classes  differed,  however. 
They  were  of  every  type  that  exists  in  the  republic 
west  of  Parana  and  south  of  latitude  28°,  being  com- 
posed of  peons  of  the  different  provinces,  while  the 
blood  of  the  Indian  and  negro  courses  through  the 
veins  of  many.  They  were  very  immoral  and  exceed- 
ingly ignorant,  but  were  kind-hearted  and  courteous 
to  strangers.  Much  time  was  wasted  in  dancing  and 
other  frivolous  amusements.  The  females  of  all  grades 
embroidered  with  skill,  and  showed  great  taste  in  the 
selection  of  their  patterns.  The  bonnet  was  not  worn, 
but  a shawl,  covering  the  head  and  falling  gracefully 
about  the  form,  supplied  its  place,  the  temperature  be- 
ing so  mild  and  uniform  that  no  warmer  head  covering 
was  needed. 

I noticed  that  the  ladies  painted  their  cheeks  in  an 
extravagant  manner;  a custom  that  we  should  not  sup- 
pose would  have  gained  entrance  to  such  an  isolated 
place.  In  San  Juan,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to 
the  north,  I saw  nothing  of  this,  and  was  told  that  it 
was  of  rare  occurrence. 


GOITRE. 


203 


Mendoza  was  a very  healthy  place  at  the  time  I was 
there.  I learned  that  many  persons,  troubled  with 
complaints  that  usually  end  in  consumption,  after  re- 
siding there  a few  years  were  restored  to  health. 

But  there  was  one  form  of  disease  which  was  said 
by  the  physicians  to  be  incurable,  and  which  in  our 
own  country  would  lead  to  a desertion  of  the  site. 

This  was  the  goitre  of  the  medical  fraternity,  and,  as 
I have  before  mentioned,  is  known  among  the  people 
as  the  cote.  The  disease  appeared  in  the  form  of  a 
large  swelling  on  the  throat,  which  was  caused  by  the 
mineral  qualities  of  the  River  Mendoza.*  The  canals 
that  supplied  the  citizens  of  the  town  ran  through 
nearly  every  street,  and  each  family  procured  their 
water  from  them. 

The  richer  portion  of  the  inhabitants  had  filters,  or 
drip-stones,  through  which  the  water  was  allowed  to 
pass,  and  become  free  from  all  vegetable  matter.  Now 
the  question  presented  itself  to  me,  Did  the  water,  in 
passing  through  the  fine  drip-stone,  rid  itself  of  any  of 
its  mineral  properties  ? and  I was  led  to  the  opinion 
that  it  did,  from  noticing  the  fact  that  the  richer 
classes,  having  their  water  thus  filtrated,  were  rarely 
troubled  with  the  goitre,  while  the  poor  people,  who 
drank  from  the  canal  itself,  presented  the  disease  in  all 
its  forms  upon  them.  In  fact,  the  goitre  seemed  to 
be  a part  of  their  person,  for  every  sixth  or  seventh 
female,  and  now  and  then  a man,  that  I met  during  a 
morning  walk,  exhibited  the  disagreeable  symptoms. 

At  San  Vicente,  a small  village,  four  miles  from  the 

* Undoubtedly  the  miserable  food  upon  which  the  poor  people 
subsisted  helped  in  encouraging  the  growth  of  this  excrescence. 


204 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


town,  the  goitre  could  be  examined  in  all  its  forms ; 
“for,”  said  an  individual  to  me  while  in  Mendoza,  “I 
fully  believe  that  every  fourth  woman  in  the  place  is 
affected  by  it.”  It  was  not  a rare  thing  to  see  a large 
swelling  on  both  sides  of  the  throat,  so  large  as  to  be 
absolutely  disgusting.  There  was  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Mendoza  a spring  of  fine  water,  but  only  a few  of 
the  citizens  took  advantage  of  its  existence. 

Mendoza  had,  when  I was  there,  a good  school  for 
the  instruction  of  the  young,  who,  like  most  creoles, 
acquired  knowledge  very  quickly.  A young  English- 
man was  at  the  head  of  the  establishment,  and  in  all 
respects  the  school  seemed  prospering.  Besides  the 
school  there  was  a public  library  containing  three  or 
four  thousand  volumes,  which,  if  consulted,  could  not 
fail  to  be  of  benefit  to  the  inhabitants,  who  were  ex- 
tremely ignorant  of  things  unconnected  with  their  im- 
mediate vicinity.  The  people  had  recently  started  a 
newspaper,  “El  Constitucional,”  and,  judging  by  the 
pompous  leaders  of  the  gentleman  who  occupied  the 
editorial  chair,  a stranger  would  have  been  led  to  be- 
lieve that  Mendoza  was  the  greatest  and  most  impor- 
tant city  on  the  globe. 

For  their  press,  types,  etc.,  they  were  indebted  to 
Mr.  Vansice,  formerly  of  Utica,  N.  Y.,  who  came  to 
this  country  several  years  before,  and  by  his  energy 
became  of  great  assistance  to  the  government  of  the 
province.  He  remodelled  many  old  forms,  and  liber- 
alized the  ideas  of  the  people  to  such  an  extent  that 
they  encouraged  him  to  revisit  North  America,  and 
obtain  many  articles,  the  introduction  of  which  have 
facilitated  the  different  kinds  of  labor  in  which  the  peo- 


INDEPENDENCE  DAY. 


205 


pie  were  engaged;  and  following  out  this  plan  to  a 
greater  extent,  a company  was  forming,  the  object  of 
which  was  to  send  to  the  United  States  for  machines, 
tools,  <fcc.  Mr.  Yansice  furnished  two  other  provinces, 
also,  with  printing  materials,  and  used  all  possible  ef- 
fort to  establish  a public  press  on  a substantial  basis. 

After  filling  offices  of  dignity  and  honor,  he  retired 
to  the  miserable  little  village  of  San  Jose  del  Moro, 
where  he  resided  with  his  native  wife,  carrying  on  a 
profitable  business  in  English  goods,  which  were  brought 
from  Valparaiso. 

While  I was  in  Mendoza,  the  celebration  and 
festivities  of  the  25th  of  May,  the  independence 
day  of  the  republic,  took  place,  and  were  celebrated 
with  unusual  enthusiasm.  For  several  days  previous 
the  people  were  engaged  in  preparing  for  the  fes- 
tivities, though  not  half  of  the  lower  classes  knew 
for  what  reason  the  celebration  was  made,  so  ignorant 
were  they  of  their  country’s  history.  The  government, 
for  one  hundred  dollars,  secured  the  services  of  the 
North  American  performers,  and  under  their  direction 
a ring  of  adobes  was  constructed  in  the  centre  of  the 
plaza,  and  close  beside  it  a rostrum  for  the  governor, 
his  suite,  and  the  musicians.  The  news  of  the  gran 
funcion  that  was  to  take  place  spread  far  into  the 
country,  and  three  days  prior  to  the  25th  the  gauchos 
came  galloping  into  town  from  all  parts  of  the  prov- 
ince. At  sunrise,  on  the  great  day,  I visited  the  plaza 
in  which  the  populace  was  pouring,  the  whole  forming 
a most  picturesque  scene. 

Gauchos,  gayly  attired,  were  mounted  upon  horses 
decked  out  with  silver  ornaments,  and  tails  braided 


206 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


with  ribbons,  and  galloping  about  in  little  parties. 
Some  farmers  came  into  town,  accompanied  by  their 
wives  and  daughters,  and  it  was  no  uncommon  thing 
to  see  two  women,  each  with  a child  in  her  arms,  riding 
on  the  same  horse  with  a man.  At  such  galas  one  sees 
a degree  of  life  and  animation  not  to  be  met  with  at 
other  times ; for,  as  soon  as  the  festival  is  over,  the  peo- 
ple sink  into  a most  indolent  state,  and  remain  so  until 
the  next  dia  de  fiesta  arouses  them  to  life  and  action. 

The  school-boys  sang  the  national  hymn,  and  the 
governor  swore  to  support  the  constitution,  after  which 
a military  review  took  place.  The  several  companies, 
as  they  marched  around  the  plaza,  were  preceded  by  a 
trumpeter,  who  blew  terrific  blasts  as  the  occasion  re- 
quired. All  the  foot  soldiers  carried  old  English  mus- 
kets, the  cavalry  being  armed  with  short  carbines  or 
lances. 

Two  cannon,  the  only  pieces  of  artillery  in  the  prov- 
ince, were  drawn  by  foot-soldiers,  dressed,  like  the  oth- 
ers, in  white  pantaloons  and  jackets,  and  from  beneath 
the  former  hung  the  frill  of  the  gaucho  drawers.  While 
the  review  was  taking  place,  the  bells  of  all  the 
churches  were  pealing  in  their  usual  manner,  and  rock- 
ets were  constantly  sent  off,  though  the  sun  shone 
brightly,  which,  of  course,  did  not  heighten  the  pyro- 
technic display.  Nearly  every  house  showed  a flag, 
and  among  them  I observed  the  English  colors  floating 
from  the  house  of  the  courteous  (?)  English  physician. 

During  the  day  many  of  the  gauchos  attempted  to 
climb  a greased  pole  erected  in  the  plaza,  upon  the  top 
of  which  money  had  been  placed ; but  not  one  succeeded 
in  gaining  the  coveted  prize.  The  only  decoration  in 


A WEAK-MINDED  G0VEKN0K. 


207 


the  plaza  was  a hexagonal  figure,  resembling  a Chinese 
lantern,  and  covered  with  white  cloth.  Upon  each 
side  was  painted  a figure,  one  of  Liberty,  one  of  Justice, 
and  another,  a portrait  of  General  Urquiza  and  our 
own  Washington,  side  by  side. 

The  stand  was  decorated  with  the  flags  of  the  South 
American  republics,  and  the  only  foreign  one  was  that 
of  the  United  States,  which  floated  over  the  figure  of 
Washington,  beside  which  was  a quotation  from  one 
of  his  speeches  delivered  to  the  American  people. 

The  circus  performance  passed  off  to  the  delight  of 
all,  and  the  equestrians  who  could  so  skilfully  perform 
upon  a galloping  horse  were  declared  by  the  gauchos 
to  have  been  trained  for  the  occasion  by  his  satanic 
majesty. 

Just  after  the  25th,  the  Mendozinos  were  thrown 
into  a great  excitement  by  the  announcement  that  a 
cacique,  attended  by  fifty  of  his  men,  had  left  his  native 
plains  of  Patagonia,  and  was  rapidly  approaching  the 
town. 

Upon  the  receipt  of  the  news,  the  governor  called 
together  all  the  musicians,  and  sent  them  to  escort  the 
savages  into  Mendoza.  The  chief  encamped  outside 
the  town,  and,  having  obtained  an  interview  with  the 
governor,  presented,  in  the  most  barefaced  manner,  a 
petition  from  his  tribe  which  any  other  government 
would  have  recognized  as  an  insult,  and  treated  it  as 
such.  He  wished  to  be  told  how  much  per  month  his 
tribe  would  be  allowed  if  they  would  not  steal  any 
more. 

Instead  of  sending  them  off  about  their  business,  or 
seizing  them,  the  governor  treated  them  like  spoiled 


208 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


children,  promising  them  an  allowance  if  they  behaved 
well,  and  distributing  presents  among  them,  after  which 
they  were  escorted  to  their  own  country,  fourteen  days’ 
travel  from  Mendoza,  by  a party  of  soldiers  commanded 
by  an  officer. 

A day  or  two  before  the  departure  of  these  Indians, 
while  I was  transacting  some  business  in  a store,  the 
chief  entered,  followed  by  two  of  his  tribe.  This  beard- 
less savage  was  dressed  in  a full  English  suit,  that  he 
had  undoubtedly  stolen  somewhere,  as  his  tribe  were 
notorious  robbers. 

He  addressed  me,  through  an  interpreter,  in  broken 
Spanish. 

Probably  suspecting  that  I was  a foreigner,  he  asked 
if  “ Ropa  ” (Europe)  was  not  my  home.  He  had  no 
knowledge  of  any  other  country,  but  supposed  that  all 
foreigners  came  from  the  same  land  on  the  other  side 
of  a great  water.  I told  him  concerning  my  native 
land,  and  in  the  course  of  the  conversation  remarked 
that  we  had  a great  many  Indians,  but  that  they  gen- 
erally used  fire-arms ; at  which  he  probably  set  me  down 
as  being  as  great  a liar  as  himself. 

According  to  his  own  story,  he  was  a good  man,  a 
rich  man,  and  a friend  to  humanity,  and  to  foreigners 
in  particular.  He  had  the  same  hypocritical  way  of 
talking  as  the  natives  of  Mendoza,  and  I came  to  the 
conclusion  that  they  had  mutually  assisted  each  other 
in  their  education. 

After  scrutinizing  the  various  objects  about  him,  he 
at  length  asked  me,  with  a grunt,  to  lend  him  four 
reals.  Of  course  I refused  him ; but  I was  curious  to 
learn  more  of  him,  and  my  refusal  was  not  made  in  the 


A BORROWING  CHIEF. 


209 


most  decided  tone  possible.  He  smiled  grimly,  and 
commenced  telling  a long  story  of  his  beautiful  house  (?) 
far  away  in  Patagonia,  where  I should  always  be  a wel- 
come visitor.  He  had  vast  numbers  of  ostriches  and 
guanacos  running  about  his  grounds,  all  of  which 
should  be  at  my  disposal  if  I would  but  accompany 
him  back  to  the  pampas.  He  liked  foreigners,  because 
they  were  braver  than  the  creoles.  Pausing  in  the 
midst  of  his  harangue,  he  gave  me  a punch  in  the  ribs, 
and  asked  to  be  accommodated  with  three  reals.  I 
again  refused.  Taking  up  the  thread  of  his  story,  he 
continued  at  great  length,  finally  promising  to  bring 
me  a tame  guanaco  when  he  returned  to  Mendoza. 
Here  followed  another  poke,  and  a request  for  two 
reals,  then  one,  and  finally  promising  to  be  content 
with  a medio.  I gave  it  to  him,  and  he  left  me. 

The  circus  performers  intended  leaving  Mendoza  for 
San  Juan,  a town  lying  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to 
the  north,  and  earnestly  wished  me  to  accompany 
them.  To  me  it  mattered  little  whether  I remained 
four  months  in  Mendoza  or  any  other  place ; but  before 
accepting  their  invitation  I called  upon  the  correo,  or 
Chilian  courier,  to  see  if  I could  possibly  cross  the  Cor- 
dillera with  him.  The  correo  was  away  on  the  passage, 
and  the  postmaster-general  believed  that  he  was  de- 
tained by  the  temporales  that  had  been  raging,  and 
would  not  return  for  several  weeks. 

In  crossing  the  mountains  during  the  winter  season, 
four  men  form  the  correo.  One  carries  the  mail,  an- 
other wood,  another  provisions,  &c.  They  do  not  leave 
either  side  oftener  than  once  a month,  and  are  some- 
times a whole  month  in  performing  the  journey,  as 
14 


210 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


they  are  frequently  shut  up  in  the  snow-huts  that  are 
scattered  along  the  road  for  many  days  at  a time. 

The  casuchas , or  snow-huts,  are  scattered  along  the 
trail  at  irregular  distances.  These  huts  are  built  of 
brick,  with  an  entrance  so  constructed  as  to  be  above 
the  drifting  snow.  The  post  party  left  Mendoza  on 
mules,  or  horses,  and  proceeded  into  the  mountains  as 
far  as  the  depth  of  snow  would  permit.  Peons  then 
took  back  the  animals,  leaving  the  correo  to  continue 
the  journey  on  foot.  This  was  the  custom  at  the  time 
of  my  visit.  Upon  reaching  the  main  chain  of  the  An- 
des, the  state  of  the  atmosphere  was  carefully  studied, 
and  if  the  result  proved  favorable  they  ascended  the 
Cordillera. 

When  upon  the  western  side  of  the  chain,  the  party 
sometimes  adopted  an  ingenious  method  for  facilitating 
their  progress.  Each  man  carried  with  him  a square 
piece  of  hide,  upon  which  he  sat,  and  descended  the 
inclined  surfaces  with  much  ease  and  great  rapidity. 
After  reaching  Santa  Rosa,  the  first  town  upon  the 
western  side,  the  correo  mounts  a horse,  and  gallops  to 
Santiago,  the  capital  of  the  republic,  which  is  about 
twenty  leagues  from  the  village. 

Upon  the  5th  of  June  the  correo  had  not  returned ; 
and  as  there  was  no  possibility  of  my  crossing  into 
Chili,  I consented  to  go  to  San  Juan,  and  set  out  about 
dusk  with  the  circus  manager  and  one  of  his  men  for  a 
quinta  outside  the  town,  from  which  we  were  to  start 
the  next  morning.  The  owner  of  the  quinta  had  agreed 
to  take  charge  of  the  company’s  mules  and  baggage, 
and  act  as  guide  to  our  party  while  crossing  the  dreary 
travesia.  We  passed,  by  moonlight,  the  burial-ground 


DESTRUCTION  OF  MENDOZA. 


211 


on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  reached  the  mule- 
teer’s house,  where  we  found  the  family  sleeping  in  the 
yard,  — men,  women,  and  dogs,  promiscuously. 

As  I probably  shall  not  in  this  volume  again  have 
occasion  to  refer  to  the  town  of  Mendoza,  I will  here 
speak  of  its  destruction,  which,  as  my  readers  doubtless 
are  aware,  occurred  in  1861,  from  an  earthquake.  This 
most  terrible  catastrophe,  in  which  thousands  of  human 
beings  lost  their  lives,  has  hardly  found  a parallel  in 
the  history  of  the  western  hemisphere. 

A recent  traveller,  who  visited  the  place  after  the 
calamity,  says,  in  describing  the  ruins,  — 

“I  arose  at  an  early  hour,  and  sallied  forth  to  see 
and  contemplate  the  ruins  of  the  doomed  city. 

“ I walked  along  the  fine  avenue  of  poplars  (the  Ala- 
meda) for  about  a hundred  yards,  and  turned  into  the 
right ; a few  paces  brought  me  into  the  nearest  street, 
where  I was  absolutely  struck  dumb  and  immovable 
with  horror  at  the  scene  which  presented  itself. 

“ As  I gazed  along  the  whole  length  of  that  street,  not 
a single  house  was  there  to  be  seen  standing ; all  was  a 
confused  mass  of 4 adobes,’  beams,  and  bricks. 

“The  street  was  filled  upon  a level  with  what  remained 
of  the  walls  of  the  houses  on  either  side,  which  at  a 
glance  accounted  for  the  fearful  number  of  victims  — 
upwards  of  twelve  thousand  — entombed  beneath  the 
ruins  of  that  fatal  20th  of  March,  1861. 

“From  the  plaza  I turned  towards  the  north,  and 
there  saw  the  only  edifice,  or  rather  portion  of  one, 
that  had  remained  entire:  it  was  the  theatre,  which, 
having  had  a considerable  quantity  of  timber  in  its 
construction,  remained  partially  uninjured.  I ascended 


212 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


to  the  roof,  and  got  a fine  view  of  the  entire  city.  For 
a mile  around  on  every  side  nothing  but  a chaotic  mass 
of  ruins  was  visible,  — the  debris  of  a large  city  razed 
to  the  ground  in  an  instant!  On  the  left  were  the 
ruins  of  what  had  been  once  a fine  church,  ‘ Santo 
Domingo,’  the  altar  and  a portion  of  the  arch  being  the 
only  remaining  traces  of  its  former  sacred  character. 

“Looking  away  towards  the  south  might  be  seen  the 
still  partially-erect  walls  of  ‘'San  Francisco,’  another 
fine  church,  which  boasted  of  the  largest  bell  in  the 
city.  This  bell  was  pitched  from  its  position  to  a con- 
siderable distance  by  the  shock,  and  stuck  between  two 
towers  on  the  north  side  of  the  building,  where  it  may 
be  still  seen,  wedged  in  so  firmly  that  all  attempts  at 
removing  it  simply  by  lifting  have  failed.  On  approach- 
ing ‘ Santo  Domingo,’  in  order  to  examine  it  more 
closely,  I saw  lying  about  its  ‘precinct’  several  human 
skeletons,  and  portions  of  the  human  form  protruding 
from  beneath  the  masses  of  masonry.  I was  almost 
sickened  by  the  sight,  and  moved  quickly  away.  In 
many  parts  of  the  city  I saw  the  same  horrible  exhibi- 
tion,— skulls,  arms,  legs,  &c.,  lying  about,  some  still 
undecayed,  especially  near  a convent  on  the  south  side 
of  the  city.” 

A gentleman  who  was  buried  under  the  ruins,  and 
afterwards  extricated,  in  describing  his  experiences, 
says,  — 

“I  stood  at  a table  (about  half-past  eight,  P.  M.) 
in  the  centre  of  the  room,  and  was  in  the  act  of  lighting 
a cigar,  when  the  shock,  preceded  by  a low,  rumbling 
noise,  was  first  felt.  It  was  slow  for  a moment  in  the  be- 
ginning; but  from  the  noise,  I concluded  it  was  going 


THE  EARTHQUAKE. 


213 


to  be  something  more  than  ordinary ; so  I rushed  into 
the  street,  and  ran  down  the  middle,  intending,  if  possi- 
ble,^ reach  the  Alameda.  I had  run  only  some  twenty 
paces  when  I felt  as  if  I had  been  struck  a heavy 
blow  on  the  back  of  the  head,  and  was  borne  down  to 
the  earth  in  a moment.  I knew  that  the  town  was 
infested  with  rats  and  vermin  of  all  kinds,  and  that, 
sooner  or  later,  they  would  not  fail  to  find  me  out 
amongst  the  thousands  of  victims  entombed,  like  my- 
self, beneath  at  least  six  feet  depth  of  ‘ adobes.’  ” 

Mr.  Hinchliff,  who  visited  Buenos  Ayres,  in  writing 
of  the  earthquake,  says,  — 

“ M.  Bravart,  a French  savant  of  some  eminence,  who 
had  foretold  the  destruction  of  the  city  by  an  earth- 
quake, was  himself  among  the  victims.  The  principal 
watchmaker  in  Buenos  Ayres,  which  is  about  eight 
hundred  miles  distant  from  the  scene  of  this  awful 
calamity,  told  me  a curious  fact  in  connection  with  it. 
One  day  he  observed  with  astonishment  that  his  clocks 
suddenly  differed  twelve  seconds  from  his  chronome- 
ters ; and  when  the  news  arrived,  about  a fortnight 
later,  he  found  that  the  pendulums  of  the  former  had 
been  arrested  at  the  moment  of  the  destruction  of 
Mendoza.” 

Since  my  return  to  the  United  States  I received  a 
letter  from  Don  Guillermo  Buenaparte,  of  San  Juan,  in 
which  he  spoke  at  considerable  length  of  the  earth- 
quake. He  wrote  me  that  when  he  approached  Men- 
doza, three  or  four  days  after  the  catastrophe,  the  stench 
rising  from  the  dead  bodies  beneath  the  ruins  was  per- 
ceived at  a distance  of  several  miles  from  the  town. 
He  found  gauchos  from  the  plains  robbing  the  wound- 


214 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


ed,  and  searching  among  the  rubbish  for  plunder. 
When  he  reached  the  public  square  of  the  city  he 
found  more  than  a hundred  women,  all  mentally  af- 
fected, many  entirely  bereft  of  their  reason ; all  were 
praying  on  their  knees,  asking  the  Holy  Mary  to  inter- 
cede for  the  lost  souls  of  their  countrymen  who  had, 
prior  to  the  fall  of  the  doomed  city,  united  with  others 
from  San  Luis,  and  had  attacked  and  butchered  many 
of  their  political  enemies  (some  four  hundred)  of  San 
Juan.  The  unfortunate  lunatics  seemed  to  think  that 
God  had  overthrown  their  city  to  avenge  the  murder 
of  San  Juaninos.  A political  conspiracy  was  being 
planned  in  the  city  at  the  time  it  was  destroyed. 

Such  a spectacle  as  the  above  needs  no  comment. 

At  four  o’clock  of  the  next  morning  after  our  depar- 
ture from  Mendoza,  the  muleteer  aroused  us,  and  bade 
us  prepare  for  the  journey;  and  an  hour  later  we  were 
journeying  along  the  base  of  the  lofty  Andes,  that  tow- 
ered above  our  heads. 

Two  hours’  ride  brought  us  to  the  travesia , over 
which  we  journeyed,  passing  close  to  a great  lake  that  is 
supplied  by  two  streams  that  flow  from  the  Cordillera. 

Much  of  the  water  is  absorbed  by  the  soil  about  the 
lake;  and  as  but  very  little  escapes  through  one  or  two 
outlets,  it  has  been  called  by  the  natives  “ El  Guana 
Cache,”  or  the  Consuming  Lake. 

I afterwards  saw  specimens  of  fishes  that  had  been 
taken  from  its  waters,  which  were  offered  for  sale  in 
San  Juan  by  the  half-starved  peons  during  the  winter 
season,  when  provisions  were  very  dear.  If  the  speci- 
mens did  not  belong  to  the  genus  Nematogenys  of 
Girard,  they  were  closely  allied  to  it. 


A DREARY  JOURNEY. 


215 


At  night  our  party  stopped  beside  a rude  hut,  in- 
habited by  a poor  gaucho.  The  hut  contained  a cu- 
rious family  of  men,  women,  children,  dogs,  goats,  and 
fowls.  The  poor  owner  begged  for  a little  sugar  as  a 
remedio. 

Throughout  the  following  day  our  course  was  over 
the  same  dreary  desert,  and  at  night  we  were  glad  to 
arrive  at  a post-house  within  a few  leagues  of  San 
Juan. 

By  noon  of  the  next  day  our  party  entered  the  town, 
which  is  still  more  isolated  than  Mendoza,  being  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  north  of  the  principal  road  to 
Chili. 


216 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


A WINTEK  IN  SAN  JUAN. 


S soon  as  I arrived  at  San  Juan,  I made  inquiries 


for  parties  who  were  about  crossing  the  moun- 
tains ; but  owing  to  a most  severe  snow  storm  that  set 
in,  the  clouds  of  which  were  plainly  visible  from  the 
town,  I was  forced  to  the  disagreeable  necessity  of 
remaining  until  the  snows  melted.  The  people  told  me 
that  the  winter  had  proved  to  be  the  most  severe  of 
any  season  within  the  last  thirty  years.  They  said 
that  after  ten  dry  or  mild  winters  there  always  suc- 
ceeded a similar  number  of  wet  or  severe  seasons,  and 
that  the  present  was  the  first  of  the  hard  series.  The 
apparently  settled  weather  that  greeted  me  was  but 
the  precursor  of  most  severe  storms  in  the  mountains. 
They  said  I could  not  cross;  to  attempt  it  would  be 
madness. 

While  the  time  hung  heavily  on  my  hands,  I heard 
much  about  a strange  person,  yclept  Don  Guillermo 
Buenaparte,  a North  American  by  birth,  and  a second 
father  to  the  poorer  classes  of  his  immediate  vicinity. 
So  many  were  the  charitable  deeds  of  this  man,  and  so 
frequent  were  the  eulogies  pronounced  upon  his  char- 
acter by  the  natives,  that  I felt  a desire  to  visit  him  in 
his  own  castle,  which  he  had  constructed  of  mud  and 


DON  GUILLERMO  BUENAPARTE. 


217 


sticks,  some  eight  or  nine  miles  distant,  in  a small  villa 
called  Causete. 

Before  I could  find  an  opportunity  of  going,  I was 
favored  with  a call  from  the  gentleman  himself,  who 
rode  into  the  patio  of  my  dwelling  one  evening,  mount- 
ed upon  a powerful  white  horse,  and  covered  with  a 
long  poncho , which,  with  a broad  sombrero , gave  him 
a truly  patriarchal  appearance. 

Don  Guillermo,  having  heard  of  my  arrival  in  San 
Juan,  had  come  to  invite  me  to  his  estate  in  Causete, 
where  he  carried  on  a little  flour  mill,  and  followed  a 
number  of  other  occupations.  A day  was  appointed 
for  the  visit,  and  when  it  came  around  I set  out  with 
a peon  for  a guide  for  the  villa.  We  soon,  on  leaving 
the  town,  came  upon  a plain  which  gave  support  to  a 
few  stunted  trees,  peculiar  to  the  travesia . With  the 
soil  was  mingled  the  peculiar  saline  mineral  described 
in  a former  chapter,  which,  with  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere  (for  it  seldom  rains  in  this  part  of  the  re- 
public), made  our  journey  a disagreeable  one. 

In  crossing  this  tract  the  reflections  of  the  sun’s  rays 
upon  the  white  surface  aflected  my  sight,  and  obliged 
me  to  follow  the  practice  of  my  guide,  and,  like  him, 
cover  the  face  with  a large  cotton  handkerchief,  a la 
gaucho.  The  first  human  habitation  that  I saw  was 
a rancho  built  of  cornstalks ; and  here  reposed  a peon 
with  his  wife,  children,  and  dogs,  while  a huge  buck 
goat,  with  a formidable  pair  of  horns,  stood  at  the  en- 
trance as  if  to  receive  us. 

I soon  came  to  a place  where  a liberty  pole  was 
standing;  and  knowing  that  such  a thing  could  not  be 
the  work  of  the  natives,  I concluded  that  I must  be 


218 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


near  the  residence  of  my  new  acquaintance.  I was 
not  mistaken,  for  he  soon  appeared  over  a little  rising 
ground.  After  greeting  me  cordially,  he  led  me  across 
the  canal,  that  furnished  his  mill  with  water,  to  his 
house,  where  he  introduced  me  to  his  wife  and  four 
children,  the  youngest  of  whom  could  not  yet  lisp  its 
father’s  name. 

I remained  through  the  day  with  them,  and  when 
night  came  on,  so  interesting  had  been  Don  Guillermo’s 
recital  of  nine  years’  residence  in  the  Argentine  Re- 
public, that  I was  easily  prevailed  upon  to  remain  un- 
til morning.  The  next  day  came  and  passed,  but  still 
I was  an  inmate  of  my  countryman’s  house,  and  finally 
was  persuaded  to  promise  that  I would  not  leave  it 
until  the  snows  began  to  melt  upon  the  Cordilleras, 
when  I must  hasten  to  Chili,  and  from  its  principal 
port,  Valparaiso,  sail  for  home. 

I accepted  the  offer  of  Don  Guillermo’s  hospitality 
only  upon  the  condition  that  I should  be  of  service  to 
him  by  taking  charge  of  his  mill ; for  the  natives  were 
so  dishonest  that  he  dared  not  employ  one  in  any  office 
of  trust,  and  I felt  that  it  would  be  but  a pleasure  for 
me  to  aid  him.  I was  accordingly  installed,  after  fifteen 
minutes’  teaching,  as  molinero , or  chief  miller. 

I felt  proud  of  my  office,  though  it  was  but  a hum- 
ble one.  My  mind  was  fully  occupied,  and  I became 
contented.  When  opportunities  offered,  I took  an  old 
condemned  English  musket,  which  I charged  with 
powder  and  a few  pebbles,  and  made  explorations  in 
the  surrounding  country  for  the  purpose  of  making 
collections  in  its  fauna.  I often  captured  many  a 
rare  specimen,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  an  ornitholo- 


AT  THE  MILL. 


219 


gical  collection;  but  although  I had  no  difficulty  in 
getting  specimens  and  preparing  them,  — for  taxidermy 
was  familiar  to  me,  — I found  one  great  obstacle  to  their 
preservation  that  I could  not  surmount.  As  my  read- 
ers doubtless  know,  arsenic  is  very  essential  for  pre- 
serving the  skins  of  birds  and  mammals,  and  I found  I 
could  do  but  little  without  it.  So  one  day  I mounted 
my  horse,  — a present  from  Don  Guillermo,  — and  gal- 
loped into  town  in  quest  of  the  mineral ; but  not  one 
of  the  druggists  would  sell  me  an  ounce  of  poison  ; it 
was  a crime  to  vend  the  article.  I applied  to  the 
physicians,  but  to  no  avail.  I next  tried  some  of  the 
officers  of  the  government,  but  failed  again.  I even 
offered  three  dollars  for  one  pound.  The  doctors  and 
officers  exclaimed,  “ What  does  the  boy  want  ? He’s 
mad  ! Where  did  he  come  from  ? ” &c. 

Despondingly  I returned  to  the  mill,  and  my  fine 
collection,  intended  for  a scientific  society  at  home, 
was  destroyed  in  a short  time  by  a minute  species  of 
red  ants,  which  ate  the  skins  almost  entirely. 

A pair  of  burrowing  owls,  a dove,  a stilt,  and  a 
few  eggs  were  all  that  I succeeded  in  bringing  home 
with  me. 

At  the  mill  the  season  proved  to  be  a busy  one. 
Merchants  from  other  provinces  visited  San  Juan,  and, 
after  disposing  of  their  goods,  generally  invested  their 
returns  in  wheat,  which  was  sent  to  the  mill  to  be 
ground.  There  were  no  water  privileges  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  the  merchants  and  farmers  of  Cordova  and 
San  Luis  frequently  sent  wheat  three  or  four  hundred 
miles  by  troops  of  mules.  My  office,  therefore,  proved 
an  advantageous  one,  as  I was  enabled  to  have  direct 


220 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


intercourse  with  people  from  several  of  the  northern 
and  eastern  provinces.  Among  the  numbers  that  I 
became  acquainted  with  were  the  old-fashioned  Rio- 
jano,  who  came  from  his  distant  home  to  the  north  of 
the  desert,  clothed  in  a heavy  frasada , manufactured 
from  wool  of  his  own  shearing  by  the  industry  of  his 
wife  or  daughter.  Sometimes  the  Indian-looking  San- 
tiaguenian,  or  Catamarcan,  and  the  crafty  yet  polite 
Cordovese,  traded  at  the  mill;  and  many  were  the  little 
gifts  that  the  most  respectable  portion  of  my  customers 
brought  me  from  their  estates  far  back  in  the  irrigated 
travesia , or  along  the  bases  of  the  Andes.  The  press 
of  business  demanded  that  the  mill  should  be  run 
night  and  day.  This  compelled  the  poorer  classes  that 
came  from  a distance  to  sleep  in  the  mill.  And  at 
night,  when  all  was  quiet,  save  the  restless  hum  of  the 
revolving  stone,  it  was  a curious  sight  to  peep  in  at  the 
door,  and  behold  the  ground  covered  with  sleeping 
forms  of  men,  women,  and  children  of  many  types  and 
complexions  — here  the  offspring  of  the  negro  and  In- 
dian; there  the  child  of  a Spanish  father  and  Indian 
mother.  It  was  a study  worthy  the  attention  of  a pro- 
found ethnologist  to  separate  and  classify  the  various 
crosses  and  mixtures  of  the  different  races  of  the  genus 
homo  that  came  to  the  mill  of  Don  Guillermo  Buena- 
parte. 

Leaving  the  dusty  atmosphere  of  the  mill,  I frequent- 
ly wandered  out  into  the  night  air  to  gaze  upon  nature 
by  moonlight.  The  canal  that  watered  the  district  of 
Causete  branched  off  in  a different  direction  from  the 
main  acquia , and  could  be  traced,  as  it  wound  along 
the  travesia , by  the  willows  and  clumps  of  reeds  that 


AT  THE  MILL. 


221 


grew  upon  its  banks.  The  Andes  towered  above  the 
plains  a few  miles  to  the  west,  while  on  the  east  the 
solid  range  of  the  mountains  of  Cordova,  stretching  far 
to  the  north,  gave  an  additional  grandeur  to  the  scene. 
The  nights  were  bland  and  lovely,  excepting  when  the 
wind  called  the  zonda  (a  sort  of  sirocco)  came  from 
the  Andes,  when  the  natives  suffered  from  its  parching 
heat,  and  those  affected  with  diseases  of  the  heart 
trembled  in  expectation  of  sudden  death. 

While  I strolled  along  the  banks  of  the  canal  the 
mill  hummed  on  as  usual,  for  Don  Guillermo  had  con- 
structed an  ingenious  method  of  alarm,  by  means  of 
which  the  absent  or  sleepy  miller  was  warned  of  the 
state  of  affairs  within  the  building. 

Such  was  the  delight  that  I took  in  these  rambles 
upon  the  travesia , that  duty  was  in  one  or  two  instances 
neglected,  and  I found,  on  returning  to  the  mill,  that 
some  villanous  male  or  degraded  female  was  stealing 
the  “millings”  from  the  miller’s  box,  or  purloining 
flour  from  the  hide  sack  of  some  countryman  who  was 
fast  in  the  embrace  of  the  drowsy  god.  Once  or  twice, 
on  such  occasions,  I became  so  vexed  as  to  attempt 
clearing  the  room  of  the  thievisli  fellows ; but  to  ac- 
complish this  required  a stronger  arm  than  mine,  and 
one  attempt  almost  resulted  in  a general  melee  ; but 
as  the  female  customers  always  took  sides  with  the 
gringo,  I came  off  in  good  condition,  and  attained  my 
object : thus  the  good  name  of  the  mill  was  not  for- 
feited. 

The  gauchos  love  to  gamble,  and  while  waiting  for 
the  mill  to  do  its  work,  they  generally  spent  the  time 
in  playing  their  favorite  games,  always  staking  small 


222 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


sums  of  money  upon  the  chances  in  order  to  make  the 
time  pass  more  profitably.  But  whatever  might  have 
been  the  rules  of  the  other  mills,  Don  Guillermo  soon 
put  a stop  to  what  he  called  a degenerating  practice, 
and  by  various  small  skirmishes  with  the  gaucho  peons, 
he  fully  demonstrated  that  his  was  a North  American 
institution,  and  that,  therefore,  gambling  could  not  be 
permitted  upon  his  premises.  The  peons  remonstrated, 
but  the  don  was  firm.  They  threatened  to  ruin  his 
business  by  patronizing  the  other  mills  in  preference 
to  his  own ; but  as  their  masters  respected  the  policy 
of  my  friend,  they  were  restrained  from  carrying  out 
their  designs.  Thus  law  and  order  were  firmly  estab- 
lished, and  North  American  principles  were  triumphant. 
It  requires  no  small  degree  of  firmness  and  knowledge 
of  human  nature  to  carry  on  the  flour  and  grain  busi- 
ness in  the  Argentine  Republic. 

Peace  and  quiet  did  not  last  long  before  a second 
innovation  was  attempted,  although  upon  a new  plan. 
A band  of  thieves  and  loafers  erected  a hut  of  corn- 
stalks and  briers  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  canal, 
in  the  district  of  Anjuaco,  and  the  place  was  once  more 
disturbed  by  midnight  revels,  and  by  frequent  raids 
upon  the  grounds  of  neighboring  farmers.  Sheep, 
calves,  and,  even  horses,  disappeared  in  a mysterious 
manner.  At  length  Don  Guillermo  became  exasper- 
ated, and  watching  an  opportunity  when  the  rascals 
were  absent,  he  attacked  the  shanty,  levelled  it  to  the 
ground,  aud,  collecting  the  ruins  into  one  pile,  set  fire 
to  it,  and  burned  it  to  ashes. 

The  party  returned,  and,  on  seeing  the  condition  of 
their  house,  would,  in  their  rage,  have  demolished  the 


SAN  JUAN  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


223 


buildings  of  the  don,  had  not  fear  prevented  them ; for 
they  well  knew  that  the  law-and-order  man  possessed 
fire-arms,  dogs,  and  a stout  heart. 

During  my  stay  at  the  mill  I occasionally  visited  the 
town  of  San  Juan,  and  passed  a few  hours  with  some 
acquaintances.  I found,  to  my  surprise,  among  the 
wealthier  citizens,  a class  of  society,  which,  for  dignity 
of  deportment,  strictness  in  etiquette,  and  generous 
hospitality,  would  favorably  compare  with  any  class 
that  I have  met  in  the  United  States  or  in  Europe. 
The  young  men  were  intelligent  and  full  of  generous 
ardor,  and  the  maidens  — how  shall  I describe  them  ? 
Since  returning  to  North  America,  my  friends  have 
sometimes  asked  if  they  resembled  our  Indian  women ! 

“ Most  certainly  not,”  I have  almost  indignantly  an- 
swered. The  higher  classes  of  San  Juan  boast  of  a 
pure  descent  from  the  old  Spaniards  or  Portuguese. 
The  fine,  clear  atmosphere  of  the  Andes  provinces  has 
affected  favorably  the  complexion,  and  most  of  these 
people  have  a skin  as  light  as  that  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  southern  states  of  the  Union. 

Many  of  the  females,  particularly  the  younger  ones, 
have  complexions  that,  in  clearness  and  beauty,  would 
rival  the  blondes  of  the  north.  In  addition  to  personal 
beauty,  the  ladies  of  San  Juan  can  boast  of  varied  at- 
tractions. The  guitar  is  used  with  a grace  and  skill 
that  give  evidence  of  careful  study  and  long  practice. 
Many  play  upon  the  piano,  using  instruments  that  have 
been  carted  a thousand  miles  over  the  pampas,  from 
the  port  of  Buenos  Ayres. 

All  can  embroider  with  skill  and  elegance.  Poetry 
appears  to  be  assiduously  cultivated  among  them,  and 


224 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


many  specimens  of  true  inspiration  came  to  my  notice 
that  would  be  considered  worthy  of  the  name  of  Ten- 
nyson or  Longfellow. 

Altogether  I know  of  no  situation  more  pleasant,  or 
containing  more  elements  of  interest  and  romance,  than 
San  Juan.  It  combines  every  description  of  scenery, 
from  the  arid  plain  of  the  travesia  to  the  sublime  alpine 
ranges;  and  it  has  a climate,  during  many  months  of 
the  year,  of  surpassing  loveliness. 

The  San  Juaninos  are  a most  hospitable  people ; and 
when  the  remembrance  of  their  unaffected  and  genial 
kindness  comes  to  my  mind,  I feel  the  keenest  regret 
that  we  are  so  widely  separated. 

The  town  is  said  to  contain  about  nine  thousand  in- 
habitants ; but  I think  the  estimate  high,  although  many 
persons  have  given  a larger  population.  It  certainly, 
in  numbers,  falls  below  Mendoza.  The  town  is  laid  out 
in  the  same  manner  as  was  Mendoza,  and  is  watered  by 
the  canals  that  run  from  the  River  San  Juan,  a stream 
rising  in  the  Cordillera. 

Ro  goitre  exists  in  this  vicinity.  I saw  only  one 
case  of  it  during  my  stay,  and  the  subject  had  lived 
many  years  in  Mendoza. 

About  the  town  are  large  pastures  of  clover,  which 
serve  to  fatten  the  numerous  herds  of  cattle  that  pass 
through  the  town  on  the  way  to  Copiapo  or  Coquimbo, 
in  Chili.  Soap,  raisins,  and  cattle  are  among  the  ex- 
ports to  the  latter  named  state.  Flour  is  forwarded  to 
the  pampa  towns,  and  to  the  villages  on  the  travesia. 
Wine  is  made  in  large  quantities,  but  does  not  now 
pay  a sufficient  profit  if  sent  to  any  considerable  dis- 
tance, although  it  was  exported  largely  in  by-gone 


DON  JOSE  THE  PENITENT. 


225 


years.  All  the  fruits  that  grow  in  Mendoza  thrive 
better  in  this  province.  The  oranges  of  Mendoza 
seemed  to  possess  an  acrid  taste,  but  I did  not  detect 
this  in  any  of  the  fruits  of  San  Juan.  The  vineyards 
surpass  anything  that  I have  ever  seen,  — not  in  the 
culture  of  the  grape,  as  but  little  is  done  to  the 
vines,  but  in  the  quality  of  the  fruit.  I distinguished 
eleven  kinds  of  grapes  in  the  quintas  around  San 
Juan. 

The  iron  plough  and  other  improved  implements  of 
agriculture  were  unknown,  and  when  I described  to 
the  quinteros  the  facility  with  which  the  celebrated 
Prouty  and  Mears  centre  draught  plough  is  handled, 
they  fairly  overwhelmed  me  with  questions,  which  had, 
at  least,  the  merit  of  artlessness. 

There  is  at  San  Juan  a Board  of  Water  Commission- 
ers, who  have  charge  of  the  irrigating  department. 
These  officials  are  seven  in  number.  They  have  la- 
bored hard  to  extend  the  main  canals  beyond  the  villas 
of  Causete  and  Anjaco,  even  to  the  very  base  of  the 
Pie  de  palo , or  wooden  foot  — a sierra  some  fourteen 
miles  east  of  San  Juan.  By  these  means  the  sterile 
saline  travesia  is  gradually  becoming  clothed  with  ver- 
dure, and  spreading  pastures  of  clover,  surrounded  by 
poplars  and  willows,  cover  spots  that  three  years  since 
were  occupied  only  by  scattered  thorn-bushes. 

As  I have  already  mentioned,  the  situation  of  miller, 
that  I filled,  was  the  means  of  giving  me  many  oppor- 
tunities for  meeting  and  studying  different  phases  of 
character. 

One  of  my  customers,  whom  I have  set  down  in  my 
journal  as  Don  Jose,  the  penitent,  was  indeed  a study. 
15 


226 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


He  was  a large-limbed,  long-winded,  courageous  old 
fellow,  of  the  pure  Spanish  stock,  and  descended  from 
the  original  conquerors  of  the  Argentine  Republic.  1 
had  frequently  heard  his  name  mentioned  by  the  gau- 
chos,  one  or  two  of  whom  delighted  in  telling  of  his 
prowess  during  the  last  revolution.  The  town  of  San 
Juan  had  been  taken  by  an  armed  band  while  the 
illustrious  Benavides  was  outside  the  place,  and  Don 
Jose,  w7ho  was  then  an  arriero , or  muleteer,  felt  it  his 
duty  to  rescue  it  from  what  he  considered  the  wrong 
political  party.  The  cuartel  had  been  taken,  and  no 
soldiers  could  be  enlisted  for  the  purpose;  but  Don 
Jose’s  energy  did  not  fail.  He  scoured  the  country 
about  San  Juan,  and  collected  twenty-five  gauchos, 
who  followed  him  to  the  town.  The  precipitate  entry 
made  by  the  gallant  little  party  struck  fear  and  con- 
sternation into  the  revolutionists,  and  Don  Jose  was 
hailed  as  deliverer  for  many  weeks. 

The  rich  people,  who  had  never  before  noticed  him, 
now  touched  their  sombreros , and  honored  him  with 
their  praise  and  approbation.  But,  as  Don  Jos6  said, 
this  did  not  give  him  money,  and  he  therefore  was  no 
better  in  station  than  before  the  revolution.  He  was 
still  a peon.  After  the  excitement  had  died  away, 
and  rich  dons  no  longer  doffed  their  hats  as  he  passed, 
he  sat  soberly  down  and  meditated  upon  how  he  could 
raise  money  enough  to  rent  him  a farm,  for  he  well  knew 
that  his  industry  would  soon  make  him  independent, 
provided  he  could  hire  a spot  of  land  fit  for  cultiva- 
tion. Nobody  would  loan  him  a peso . 

Our  hero,  nevertheless,  did  not  despond.  He  sought 
relief  in  religion,  but  in  a different  manner  from  that 


DON  JOSE  THE  PENITENT. 


227 


which  is  usually  practised.  The  don  knew  that  several 
of  the  churches  of  the  town  had  large  endowments. 
People  dying,  and  wishing  to  enter  a better  world,  there 
to  enjoy  a life  of  bliss,  had  left  sums  of  money  to  the 
church,  surely  not  to  be  applied  to  charitable  purposes, 
for  the  priests  generally  require  nine  dollars  for  saying 
mass  over  the  body  of  the  poorest  child  of  the  church. 
The  priests  will  sometimes  lend  these  moneys  upon 
good  security,  and  to  pious  people,  at  the  low  rate  of 
five  per  cent. ; and  we  may  well  call  this  a low  rate, 
when,  in  business  transactions,  the  people  of  the  inte- 
rior towns  rarely  charge  less  than  eighteen  per  cent. 

The  don,  knowing  that  he  had  not  attended  mass 
regularly,  did  not  feel  satisfied  that  his  application  for 
money  to  the  priests  would  meet  with  success,  and  he 
therefore  commenced  a plan  that,  if  carried  out,  would 
insure  him  all  the  money  that  his  wants  required.  He 
resolved  to  become  a penitent.  He  looked  back  over 
his  past  life  with  sorrow.  “ I have  sinned  — have 
sinned  more  than  all  others,”  he  said  to  the  other  peni- 
tents. “ I am  resolved  to  change  my  mode  of  life,  and 
now  I will  live  for  some  good  purpose.” 

Each  day  his  phiz  lengthened.  “How  solemn  he 
looks!”  said  the  friends  of  his  family;  “poor  Don 
Jose!”  He  lost  flesh  rapidly,  and  the  brave  deliverer 
of  the  town  became  feeble  as  a woman.  He  attended 
church  regularly,  was  always  at  the  masses,  and  nevei 
absent  from  the  confessional.  He  was,  in  short,  a 
model  church  member.  The  priests  were  his  friends, 
— not  the  jolly,  fat,  laughing  padres,  but  the  frizzle- 
headed, stern  old  fellows,  that  rarely  smiled,  and  then 
only  at  the  follies  of  the  world.  Don  Jose  fasted  a 


228 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


great  deal,  and  then,  after  advising  with  his  confessor, 
determined  to  scourge  himself,  and  to  pass  three  days 
in  solitary  confinement.  He  bade  adieu  to  his  friends, 
and  locked  himself  into  a little  domicile  that  belonged 

O 

to  the  church.  Here,  in  communion  with  himself,  he 
passed  three  long  days  and  nights  without  food.  With 
a short  piece  of  raw  hide  he  chastised  his  body, — 
vicariously,  probably,  after  the  example  of  his  illustri- 
ous Manchegan  countryman,  — and  spots  of  blood 
(from  the  arteries  of  an  ox)  were  observed  upon  the 
floor  and  walls  of  the  chamber  when  good  Father  R. 
entered,  and  who  declared  that  his  son  had  done  his 
duty  nobly. 

Don  Jose  had  accomplished  his  object.  He  could 
be  trusted  by  the  clergy  now,  and  it  was  with  pleasure 
that  the  treasurer-padre  gave  the  sum  required  by  our 
hero.  With  the  borrowed  money  he  rented  a farm, 
and  I can  so  far  attest  to  the  success  of  his  operations, 
that  as  I passed  his  residence  I often  filled  my  saddle- 
bag with  the  fruits  of  his  penitence,  which  I took  to 
the  mill  to  make  happy  the  little  cherubs  of  Don 
Guillermo. 


MINING. 


229 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A WINTER  IN  SAN  JUAN  — CONTINUED. 

ITH  the  approach  of  spring,  the  desert  around 


the  mill  became  a constant  source  of  study  to 
me.  The  lagoon  near  the  house  was  filled  with  seven 
or  eight  species  of  ducks  and  teals,  and  occasionally  a 
pair  of  white  swans  might  be  seen  upon  the  water,  where 
they  frequently  staid  for  several  days  in  succession. 
The  ducks  remained  throughout  the  whole  year;  and 
before  I left  Causete,  the  China  or  half-breed  girls 
were  frequently  seen  swimming  into  the  lagoon,  where 
they  captured  great  numbers  of  the  young  fowl. 

The  green-winged  teal,  pin-tailed  duck,  and  other 
species  of  the  northern  continent,  were  far  from  un- 
common. 

One  day,  while  standing  in  the  doorway  of  the  mill, 
attempting  to  get  a glimpse  of  a dim  line  of  the  point 
of  the  Pie  depalo , where  I had  been  told  that  a beau- 
tiful region,  called  the  “Fertile  Valley,”  lay  embosomed 
in  trees,  my  attention  was  attracted  to  a dark  spot  in 
the  sierra,  which  seemed  to  be  a hole  in  the  rock.  On 
the  following  day,  at  sunset,  I again  distinguished  the 
same  dark  spot:  each  day  it  grew  larger;  and  one 
morning  an  old  miner  came  into  the  mill,  and  informed 
me  that  a company  of  Chilenos  were  opening  a vein ; 


230 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


the  situation  of  the  sierra,  the  peculiarities  of  the  rock, 
&c.,  led  him  to  doubt  of  the  practicability  of  the  under- 
taking. How  the  party  succeeded-  in  their  search  for 
gold  I have  not  yet  learned ; but  the  antecedents  of 
the  mountain  are  bad,  for  when  the  sierra  was  discov- 
ered by  the  early  adventurers,  in  expectation  of  finding 
gold,  they  named  it  Pie  de  Oro , or  “ Foot  of  Gold,” 
and  afterwards,  when  they  had  been  disappointed  in 
searching  for  the  ore,  they  dropped  the  first  name,  and 
called  it  that  by  which  it  is  known  at  the  present  day 
— Pie  de  Palo , or  “ W ooden  Foot.” 

The  llama  and  other  animals  are  found  in  the  sierra 
of  this  section,  which  are  also  known  — for  what  reason 
I never  could  learn  — as  the  mountains  of  Cordova. 
I had  not  time  to  visit  the  range  when  in  Causete, 
though  I much  desired  to  do  so,  as  the  old  guides  and 
miners  told  many  strange  stories  regarding  it. 

One  evening,  as  I was  in  the  mill  at  work,  a servant 
came  from  the  house,  saying  that  Don  Guillermo  wished 
to  see  me,  and  give  me  an  introduction  to  a guest  who 
had  just  arrived.  I repaired  to  the  house,  where  I 
made  the  acquaintance  of  the  celebrated  gaucho,  Diablo 
McGill.  As  he  has  quite  a local  notoriety,  I will  speak 
of  him  more  fully  here  than  I otherwise  would. 

McGill  was  celebrated  above  most  gauchos  for  his 
skill  in  using  the  lasso,  knife,  and  boliadores , and  in  the 
management  of  wild  colts.  He  was  the  handsomest 
herdsman  that  I ever  saw,  and  was  so  polite  and  easy 
in  his  intercourse  with  strangers  that  I at  first  doubted 
if  he  was  really  the  wild  gaucho  of  whom  I had  heard 
so  much.  McGill  was  the  owner  of  a troop  of  mules ; 
he  left  his  native  province  to  follow  the  wandering  life 


DIABLO  MCGILL. 


231 


of  a pampa  merchant,  because  he  despised  his  own 
countrymen,  and  declared  that  they  were  all  peons 
(laborers),  and  not  gauchos ; for  the  province  in  which 
he  was  born,  being  situated  upon  the  desert,  at  the  base 
of  the  Andes,  contained  very  few  cattle-farms,  and  con- 
sequently the  inhabitants  were  mostly  traders,  laborers, 
and  “ loafers.” 

He  visited  the  province  annually,  and  while  in  his  na- 
tive town  invariably  played  some  mad  prank  to  aston- 
ish the  natives,  and  keep  his  reputation  as  a diablo. 

On  feast  days  he  dressed  himself  in  the  full  habili- 
ments of  a herdsman,  a showy  chiropd , finely- wrought 
drawers,  heavy  silver  spurs,  &c.  His  horse  was  selected 
with  care  from  his  corral,  and  bedecked  with  silver 
ornaments  from  the  head  to  the  tail,  and  a costly  re - 
cado , or  country  saddle,  placed  upon  its  back.  Thus 
equipped,  he  would  sally  forth  to  visit  the  various  pul- 
perias , or  drinking-shops,  where  the  gauchos  crowded 
to  listen  to  his  songs,  and  tales  of  mighty  deeds  trans- 
acted while  accompanying  his  troop  of  mules  across  the 
lonely  pampas. 

All  the  senoritas  felt  happy  when  McGill  asked  them 
to  accompany  him  through  la  samba  cueca , el  gato , or 
la  mariquita , as  the  three  principal  dances  are  styled, 
and  she  who  could  keep  the  wild  gaucho  by  her  side 
for  one  half  hour  felt  more  gratified  than  if  she  had 
made  a dozen  ordinary  conquests.  But  the  wild  gaucho 
could  not  love  a fair  senorita,  though  she  might  be  the 
belle  of  the  province.  Horses,  wild  colts,  wild  bulls, 
and  wild  gauchos  were  his  chosen  companions,  and  the 
fair  sex  tried,  but  in  vain,  to  find  some  uncovered  spot 
upon  which  to  make  an  impression : he  was  impenetra- 
ble to  the  shafts  of  Cupid. 


232 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


The  story  is  told  that,  during  one  of  his  last  visits, 
Don  Antonio  Moreno,  who  had  always  envied  the  suc- 
cess of  McGill,  challenged  him  to  prove  his  skill  in  the 
use  of  the  lasso.  McGill  accepted  the  challenge,  and 
entered,  lasso  in  hand,  the  corral  of  the  jealous  Don 
Antonio. 

“ I will  do  more  than  you  challenge  me  to  attempt,” 
said  our  hero,  coolly.  “Here  are  five  hundred  mules 
in  this  circular  yard,  and  as  you  drive  around  the  cir- 
cle they  run  eight  or  ten  abreast.  Now,  I will  stand 
in  the  middle,  and  as  they  pass  around  me  you  are  to 
call  out  which  mule  you  wish  lassoed,  and  upon  what 
leg  or  part  of  the  body  the  animal  is  to  be  noosed. 
This  you  must  do  when  the  particular  beast  is  in  front 
of  me,  so  that  I can  throw  the  lasso  when  she  is  behind 
me.  As  fast  as  one  is  caught,  you  are  to  remove  her 
from  the  corral.  Thus  will  I catch  each  of  the  five 
hundred  mules,  without  missing  a single  throw,  and 
catch  them  while  they  pass  behind  my  back.  Will 
that  satisfy  you,  Don  Antonio  Moreno  ? ” 

The  other  party  looked  incredulous.  Don  Antonio 
was  himself  a first-rate  gaucho  and  rastreador  / he  had 
seen  good  lassoing,  but  this  offer  seemed  preposterous. 

“ Go  on,  McGill,”  he  said,  with  a contemptuous  shrug 
of  the  shoulders.  “ When  you  have  caught  five  hun- 
dred mules  behind  your  back,  I will  pay  you  well  for 
your  trouble.’* 

The  gaucho  took  his  place  in  the  centre  of  the  yard, 
and,  as  the  mules  were  driven  around  the  circle,  threw 
his  lasso  with  unerring  skill ; first  one,  then  another, 
then  a third,  rolled  over  upon  the  ground,  always  fall- 
ing upon  the  head  in  a particular  manner. 


A GAUCHO’S  SKILL. 


233 


Don  Antonio  suspected  the  gaucho,  and  perceiving 
his  object  in  throwing  the  mules  upon  their  heads,  pro- 
tested against  it. 

“You  will  break  the  necks  of  half  of  them !”  he  ex- 
claimed to  the  gaucho,  who  at  the  same  moment,  with 
a dexterous  jerk  on  the  lasso,  sent  another  mule,  stunned, 
upon  the  ground. 

“ Stop ! ” he  shouted.  “ McGill,  what  mean  you  by 
throwing  the  mules  in  that  manner?” 

“ What  do  I mean  ? ” replied  the  herdsman,  as  an- 
other mule  shared  the  same  fate  of  the  last  one.  “What 
do  I mean  ? Why,  man,  I mean  to  break  the  necks  of 
all  your  mules,  that  I may  give  you  a certain  proof  that 
I can  throw  the  lasso  equal  to,  and  better  than,  any 
San  Juanino.” 

“ Enough ! enough ! ” replied  the  excited  don.  “You 
have  proved  it ; there  is  no  necessity  of  further  effort. 
Besides,  these  mules  are  to  be  driven  across  the  Cor- 
dillera into  Chili,  and  if  you  break  their  necks  it’s 
money  out  of  my  pocket.  Had  we  not  better  enter 
the  house  ? I believe  Dona  Trinidad  is  ready  to  serve 
mate? 

When  McGill  rode  forth  upon  a feast  day  as  Gauoho 
Porteno,  or  Buenos  Ayrean  herdsman,  the  peons  of 
San  Juan  gazed  with  astonishment  upon  his  rich  trap- 
pings. I have  the  list  of  articles  that  he  and  his  ani- 
mal wore.  Upon  his  favorite  black  horse  were  first 
placed  three  bageras , or  skins,  Jo  preserve  the  animal’s 
back  from  the  chafing  of  saddle-gear.  Upon  these 
were  laid  a heavy,  fine-wrought  jergon , or  blanket,  to 
absorb  the  perspiration ; over  these  were  laid,  first,  a 
corona  de  vaca , or  cow’s  hide  covering,  to  give  firmness 


234 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


to  the  saddle;  secondly,  a corona  of  fine  leather,  to 
hide  the  rougher  pieces  beneath. 

The  latter  article,  which  was  richly  embossed,  was 
very  ornamental,  and  drew  from  the  gauchos  many  ad- 
miring remarks.  Upon  this  platform,  or  foundation, 
the  recardo  was  placed,  and  kept  firmly  in  position  by 
a wide  cincha , or  girth,  cut  from  softened,  untanned 
hide.  A pellon,  or  sheepskin,  was  laid  upon  the  saddle, 
and  kept  in  its  place  by  a smaller  girth.  The  pellon 
was  then  covered  with  a small  piece  of  embroidered 
cloth,  worked  by  the  hands  of  some  fair  damsel.  The 
lasso  lay  upon  the  animal’s  croup,  behind  the  rider,  and 
was  attached  to  an  iron  ring  in  the  broad  cincha.  A 
pair  of  alforjas , or  saddle-bags,  were  thrown  across  the 
peak  of  the  saddle,  and  around  the  animal’s  neck  hung 
a leather  rope,  the  biador , used  to  tie  him  when  feed- 
ing, though  the  lasso  is  generally  employed  for  that 
purpose. 

Upon  the  peak  of  the  saddle  were  swung  the  chifles , 
two  cows’  horns,  in  which  was  carried  wine  or  water, — 
fluids  absolutely  indispensable  upon  the  travesia  of  San 
Luis. 

From  beneath  the  left  side  of  the  coronas , close  by 
the  peak  of  the  saddle,  peeped  the  three  balls,  the  well- 
known  boliadores  (called  in  most  works  of  travel  bolas ), 
with  which  the  gaucho  secures  game  while  upon  the 
road. 

Hanging  from  the  fiador  was  a pair  of  manes , or 
shackles,  for  the  horse’s  fore  feet,  which  serve  the  same 
purpose  as  a pair  of  handcuffs.  If  the  rider  wishes  to 
leave  his  horse  in  the  street,  where  many  travellers  are 
passing,  he  places  the  manes  upon  the  animal’s  fore 


THE  RASTREADOR. 


235 


legs,  and  it  is  only  with  great  difficulty  that  the  beast 
can  slowly  move  about.  Lastly,  the  bridle,  a magnifi- 
cent article,  formed  of  leather,  and  thickly  studded 
with  silver  plates,  and  the  horse  was  equipped. 
McGill  was  dressed  in  the  gala  costume  of  a Buenos 
Ayrean  gaucho,  with  drawers  of  the  finest  needlework, 
and  the  chiropa , that  covered  his  loins,  of  costly  silk. 
From  this  description  the  reader  can  gain  some  idea 
of  a fast  man  among  the  gauchos,  for  such  was  the 
guest  of  Don  Guillermo. 

In  this  connection  I may  devote  a few  lines  to  a 
character  well  known  throughout  the  Provinces  of  La 
Plata  — the  rastreador , or  trailer. 

While  the  mill  was  in  operation  one  afternoon,  I had 
occasion  to  leave  the  building,  in  order  to  let  on  more 
water  from  the  acquia.  While  attending  to  the  flood- 
gate, I saw  an  old  man  slowly  approaching  the  mill, 
with  his  eyes  bent  upon  the  ground.  He  frequently 
stopped  to  inspect  the  soil ; then,  continuing  his  course, 
he  passed  the  mill,  and  crossed  the  rude  bridge  that 
spanned  the  canal.  Continuing  along  the  travesia  in 
the  district  of  Anjuco,  he  was  soon  lost  among  the 
thorn  trees  and  thickets  of  mate-gusano.  I thought  no 
more  of  the  old  man,  supposing  that  he  had  probably 
lost  some  article,  and  was  searching  for  it.  An  hour 
later  he  returned  to  the  mill,  and  said  a few  words  to 
Don  Guillermo  and  several  gauchos,  who  were  waiting 
for  their  respective  turns  at  the  hopper.  In  an  instant 
the  room  was  vacated ; the  party  dispersed  along  the 
road,  and  as  they  occasionally  came  together  near  the 
mill,  I could  see  the  old  man  giving  some  advice,  upon 
which  the  gauchos  again  dispersed.  The  party  returned 


236 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


about  eight  o’clock,  and  from  the  peons  I learned  that 
the  old  man  was  a trailer.  He  had  been  walking  along 
the  road,  and  had  noticed  a footprint  that  struck  him 
as  “deceitful.”  He  said  that  a man  had  passed  the 
mill  about  three  o’clock,  and  that  the  man  was  a rob- 
ber. “ For  he  was  dressed,”  said  the  trailer,  “ in  woman’s 
clothes.  There  are  places  along  his  trail  that  prove  he 
held  the  dress  up  with  his  hands ; in  others  it  trailed 
along  the  ground.  He  wore  a woman’s  shoe,  which 
did  not  fit  him;  his  foot  was  broad,  the  shoe  long  and 
narrow.  He  walked  in  some  places,  and  ran  through 
the  thickets.  Ho  man  dresses  in  woman’s  garb  with- 
out some  bad  intent.” 

“He  is  somewhere  among  the  ranchos  of  Anjuco.” 

Wonderful  to  state,  news  came  from  town  the  next 
day  that  several  men  had  dressed  themselves  in  female 
attire,  and  in  that  disguise  had  visited  the  stores  in  the 
Calle  Ancho,  or  Broadway,  where  they  had  purloined 
many  articles,  which  the  rogues  had  hidden  beneath 
their  dresses.  It  was  the  trail  of  one  of  these  dresses 
that  the  old  rastreador  had  struck. 

The  patriot  Sarmiento,  a San  Juanino  by  birth,  says 
of  the  characteristics  of  these  men,  the  trailers,  — 

“ Once,  as  I was  crossing  a path  that  led  into  the 
Buenos  Ayres  road,  the  muleteer  that  conducted  me 
cast  his  eyes  upon  the  ground,  as  was  his  custom,  and 
said  a very  good  black  mule  passed  here  yesterday ; she 
had  an  easy  gait,  and  was  saddled ; she  belongs  to  the 

troop  of  Don . This  man  was  coming  from  the 

sierra  of  San  Luis ; the  troop  was  returning  from  Bue- 
nos Ayres. 

“A  year  had  passed  since  he  had  seen  the  black 


SKILL  OF  A TRAILER. 


237 


mule,  the  track  of  which  was  confused  with  those  of  a 
whole  troop,  in  a path  not  more  than  two  feet  wide. 
But  this  keenness  of  perception,  so  apparently  incredi- 
ble, is  a faculty  common  to  every  gaucho ; this  man  was 
a mere  muleteer,  and  not  a professional  trailer.” 

He  also  describes  another  trailer  in  La  Vicla  deJuan, 
Facundo  Quiroga,  as  follows:  — 

“I  knew  a trailer  by  the  name  of  Calibar,  who  had 
practised  his  profession  in  one  province  during  forty 
successive  years.  He  is  now  nearly  eighty  years  old, 
and  though  bowed  with  age,  still  retains  a venerable 
and  dignified  appearance. 

“ When  they  speak  to  him  of  his  fabulous  reputation, 
he  answers,  ‘ I am  now  useless ; these  are  my  children.’ 
It  is  said  of  him  that  during  a trip  that  he  made  to 
Buenos  Ayres  a saddle  was  stolen  from  his  house. 

“ His  wife  covered  the  robber’s  track  with  a wooden 
bowl.  Two  months  later  Calibar  returned  home,  and 
saw  the  almost  obliterated  footprint,  that  to  other  eyes 
was  imperceptible,  and  nothing  more  was  said  of  the 
occurrence.  A year  and  a half  afterwards  Calibar  was 
walking  along  a street  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  with 
his  head  inclined  towards  the  ground.  He  entered  a 
house,  and  found  a saddle,  blackened,  and  almost  worth- 
less from  use ; he  had  -found  the  trail  of  the  robber  after 
a lapse  of  two  years. 

“During  the  year  1830  a criminal  had  escaped  from 
jail,  and  Calibar  was  charged  to  find  him.  The  un- 
happy man,  knowing  that  he  would  be  tracked,  had 
taken  all  the  precautions  which  the  fear  of  the  scaffold 
could  invent. 

“Useless  precautions!  Perhaps  they  only  served  to 


238 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


insnare  him,  for  Calibar  felt  that  his  reputation  might 
be  compromised,  and  self-pride  caused  him  to  acquit 
himself  well. 

“ The  runaway  took  every  advantage  of  the  uneven- 
ness of  the  ground  so  as  to  baffle  his  pursuer ; but  his 
efforts  only  proved  the  marvellous  sight  of  the  rastre - 
ador. 

“ He  walked  the  whole  length  of  streets  on.  tiptoe, 
then  climbed  low  walls,  crossed  a pasture,  and  returned 
in  his  own  track. 

“ Calibar  followed  without  losing  the  trail.  If  he 
momentarily  missed  it,  it  was  soon  recovered.  At  last 
he  arrived  at  a canal  of  water  in  the  suburbs,  where 
the  fugitive  had  followed  the  current,  to  foil  the  trail- 
er. But  in  vain ! Calibar  followed  along  the  shore 
without  any  uneasiness,  and  at  last  stopped  to  examine 
some  grass,  with  the  words,  ‘At  this  place  he  came 
out ; there  is  no  track,  but  these  drops  of  water  in  the 
pasture  indicate  it.’ 

“ The  fugitive  had  entered  a vineyard.  Calibar  sur- 
veyed with  his  eye  the  walls  that  surrounded  it,  and 
said,  ‘He  is  within.’  The  party  of  soldiers  that  at- 
tended him  sought  in  the  vineyard  without  success. 
At  length  they  became  tired  of  hunting,  and  returned 
to  report  the  uselessness  of  their  search.  ‘ He  has  not 
come  out,’  was  the  brief  answer  which  the  trailer  gave, 
without  moving  himself,  or  proceeding  to  a new  ex- 
amination. He  had  not  come  out,  indeed;  another 
search  discovered  him,  and  on  the  following  day  he 
was  executed.” 


THE  ZONDA  WIND. 


239 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

VIENTE  DE  ZONDA. 

IN  a preceding  chapter  I made  reference  to  the 
viente  de  zonda , or  zonda  wind  ; and  as  the  history 
of  it  is  imperfectly  known  in  the  northern  continent,  I 
will  here  speak  of  it  to  some  extent. 

The  viente  de  zonda  may  be  called  a local  wind,  as 
it  blows  only  in  the  vicinity  of  the  province  of  San 
Juan,  the  town  where  the  following  observations  were 
made. 

San  Juan,  the  capital  of  the  province,  lies  at  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Andes,  three  or  four  leagues  dis- 
tant from  the  outer  sierra,  south  latitude  31°  4'  (Mo- 
lina), longitude  68°  57'  west  (Arrowsmith).  Behind 
the  first  range  in  a valley  are  four  or  five  farms,  which 
constitute  the  hamlet  of  Zonda,  from  which  the  wind 
is  named.  It  blows  at  all  seasons,  though  during  July 
and  August  (midwinter)  it  is  most  frequent.  This 
wind  is  hot  and  parching  to  the  skin,  and  brings  with 
it  clouds  of  dust  and  fine  sand. 

All  persons  leave  their  work,  and  seek  refuge  in 
their  houses,  while  frequently  the  huts  of  the  gauchos 
are  blown  down  by  the  force  of  the  wind.  Most  per- 
sons are  troubled  with  severe  headaches.  Those  who 
have  been  suffering  from  diseases  of  the  heart  find  their 


240 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


complaints  greatly  aggravated,  and  frequently  there 
are  cases  of  sudden  death.  Three  or  four  years  since, 
five  persons  fell  dead  during  the  zondas  in  the  month 
of  August.  The  wind  lasts  sometimes  two  or  three 
hours ; at  other  times,  forty-eight  hours,  though  this 
long  duration  is  rare.  While  the  zonda  is  at  its  height, 
a few  puffs  of  cold  air  from  the  south  announce  a 
change,  and  immediately  the  weather-cock  veers  from 
east  and  west  to  north  and  south,  and  a cold  wind, 
equally  as  strong  as  the  hot  zonda , then  prevails  from 
the  south.  All  nature  is  refreshed  by  the  change,  and 
men  resume  their  abandoned  labors. 

In  searching  through  the  works  of  the  very  few 
authors  who  have  visited  the  interior  of  the  Argentine 
states  (all  but  one  or  two  of  whom  were  Europeans),  I 
find  that  only  one  mentions  the  existence  of  this  phe- 
nomenon ; and  he  did  not,  probably,  visit  the  town 
where  my  observations  were  made,  which  locality  is 
considered  by  the  natives  as  the  northern  limit  of  the 
zondas. 

John  Miers,  the  author  of  an  interesting  work  on 
the  Provinces  of  La  Plata  and  Chili,  remained  a short 
time  in  Mendoza.  He  states  that  this  southern  looality 
is  annoyed  by  winds  that  blow  during  the  summer 
months  from  the  valley  of  Zonda,  and  notes  the  fact 
that  two  dark  clouds  came  from  the  north-west,  and 
hovered  over  the  town  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
night,  and  in  the  morning  everything  that  had  been 
exposed  to  the  air  was  covered  with  fine  sand,  which 
was  of  a light  gray  color,  and  slightly  magnetic.  It 
was  Miers’s  opinion  that  “a  souffriere , or  active  vol- 
cano,” existed  to  the  northward  of  San  Juan,  from 


COUKSE  OF  THE  ZONDA. 


241 


which  the  hurricanes  and  showers  of  sand  originated. 
Had  Mr.  Miers  visited  San  Juan,  his  view  of  the  posi- 
tion of  the  volcano  would,  undoubtedly,  have  been 
changed;  for  though  the  zondas  reach  Mendoza  to 
the  south,  the  direction  of  the  wind  when  it  strikes 
that  place  differs  from  the  line  it  follows  when  it 
rushes  with  violence  upon  the  northern  town.  At 
San  Juan  it  comes  due  west  from  the  Andes.  Hence 
the  starting-point  of  the  zonda  cannot  be  to  the  north 
of  the  town,  as  Miers  conjectured.  According  to  the 
account  of  the  natives,  the  zonda  of  San  Juan  does  not 
cover  a broader  space  than  ten  or  fifteen  miles  after  it 
leaves  the  sierra  of  Zonda. 

Taking  this  into  consideration,  in  connection  with 
Miers’s  statement  that  the  Mendoza  zonda  comes  from 
the  north-west,  differing,  as  it  will  be  seen,  four  points 
from  the  northern  town,  we  may  infer  that  the  Men- 
doza and  San  Juan  zondas  do  not  blow  at  the  same 
time.  If  this  is  true,  it  is  an  interesting  fact,  showing 
that  this  peculiar  wind  does  not  always  follow  the 
same  track. 

Miers  further  states  that  these  are  summer  winds  in 
Mendoza.  From  personal  observation,  and  by  reliable 
accounts  of  educated  San  Juaninos,  I found  that  they 
were  more  particularly  the  winter  winds ; at  least  they 
are  more  frequent  during  that  season.  Invalids  suffer- 
ing from  pneumonical  diseases  and  complaints  affect- 
ing the  heart  and  liver,  anticipate  the  month  of  August 
(midwinter)  with  consternation,  and  their  anxiety  is 
not  quieted  until  they  have  passed  through  the  dread- 
ed ordeal. 

While  passing  the  winter  in  San  Juan,  I noted  the 
16 


242 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


courses  of  upwards  of  twenty  zondas.  Some  were  of 
short  duration ; others  lasted  eighteen  or  twenty  hours. 

During  the  latter  part  of  August,  as  I was  standing 
upon  the  saline  desert,  a few  miles  east  of  San  Juan, 
my  attention  was  attracted  by  a cloud  of  dust  that 
appeared  to  roll  through  the  air  as  it  approached  me. 
I started  for  a shelter,  and  had  hardly  reached  it  when 
the  zonda  swept  past,  filling  the  air  with  fine  yellow 
sand.  The  temperature  of  the  previously  sultry  at- 
mosphere suddenly  rose  many  degrees,  and  the  occu- 
pants of  the  neighboring  huts  were  affected  with  severe 
headaches.  I noted,  with  a compass,  the  course  of  the 
wind,  which  was  west.  All  night  and  through  the  fol- 
lowing day  and  night,  the  wind  continued  blowing  with 
undiminished  force.  Each  hour  the  vane  beside  the 
hut  was  consulted,  and  the  same  course  as  at  first  was 
always  observed.  A few  hours  before  the  wind  ceased 
the  sand  showers  were  exhausted.  The  greatest  heat 
was  during  the  first  few  hours  ; and  this  is  always  the 
case  if  the  zonda  commences  during  the  day.  After 
continuing  for  thirty-six  hours  the  change  came.  It 
was  instantaneous.  The  hot  wind  seemed  cut  off  at 
right  angles  by  a cold  wind  from  the  south.  The 
change  could  not  have  occupied  more  than  forty  sec- 
onds. The  south  wind  lasted  twenty  hours,  and  w^as 
as  violent  as  the  hot  zonda.  In  speaking  of  the  Men- 
doza zondas , Miers  does  not  mention  the  succession  of 
the  south  wind.  It  is  easy  to  comprehend  that,  after 
so  large  an  area  has  become  filled  with  heated  air,  the 
effect  will  be  felt  in  the  cooler  regions  of  the  south, 
and  a strong  current  from  that  direction  will  rush  in 
to  restore  the  atmospheric  equilibrium.  Hence  the 
cause  of  the  south  wind  succeeding  the  zor\da. 


ORIGIN  OF  ZONDA. 


243  * 


Miers  believed  that  the  origin  of  the  zondas  was  vol- 
canic, and  a corroboration  of  his  views  is  found  in  the 
woi*k  of  Sir  Woodbine  Parish,  in  which  he  states  that 
the  volcano  Penguenes,  which  is  situated  about  one 
hundred  miles  south-west  from  Mendoza,  and  reaches 
an  altitude  of  nearly  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  emits  clouds  of  ashes  and  pumice-dust. 
This  dust  is  carried  by  the  winds  as  far  as  Mendoza, 
but  these  clouds  do  not  strike  the  town  with  the  force 
of  the  San  Juan  zonda.  The  pumice-dust  is  borne 
along  by  variable  winds.  From  this  fact  we  may  infer 
that  the  fine  sand  of  the  zondas  comes  from  a similar 
source.  The  most  important  question  is,  Where  origi- 
nates the  hot  and  parching  wind  that  always  accom- 
panies, and  is  peculiar  to , the  zondas  f The  old 
guides,  who  are  familiar  with  the  valleys  of  the  Andes, 
informed  me  that  these  winds  blow  from  off  the  main 
snow-clad  ridge  of  that  great  chain  of  mountains,  and 
expressed  their  surprise  at  the  fact  “ that  from  a cold 
region  comes  a burning  wind.” 

Strong  and  steady  winds  generally  follow  a direct 
line.  This  fact  is  characteristic  of  the  zondas . If 
Miers’s  conjecture  be  true  regarding  the  origin  of  these 
winds,  the  position  of  the  volcano,  or  souffriere , might 
be  found  by  observing  the  following  suggestion,  bear- 
ing in  mind  that  the  Mendoza  wind  comes  from  the 
north-west , and  the  San  Juan  zonda  from  the  west. 
That  point  where  two  lines  — one  running  west  from 
the  northern  town,  the  other  north-west  from  the 
southern  town  — will  intersect,  is  the  starting-point 
of  the  sand  clouds,  if  not  of  the  accompanying  hot 
wind. 


244 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


Looking  upon  the  map  of  South  America,  we  find  in 
the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  between  the  latitudes  of 
San  Juan  and  Mendoza,  four  peaks  marked  as  doubtful 
volcanoes:  Limari,  directly  west  of  San  Juan ; Chuapu, 
thirty  miles  farther  south ; and  near  the  half-way  point 
of  the  two  towns,  Ligua.  To  the  north  of  west  of 
Mendoza  stands  prominent  the  lofty  Aconcagua,  that 
has  been  estimated  by  two  English  captains  to  have  an 
elevation  of  twenty-three  thousand  nine  hundred  feet. 
The  point  of  intersection  of  the  west  and  north-west 
zonda  lines  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Limari  and  Chuapu, 
and,  if  not  either  of  these,  the  zonda  volcano  is  a near 
neighbor  to  them. 


ADVENTURES  OF  DON  GUILLERMO. 


245 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


ADVENTURES  OF  DON  GUILLERMO  BUENAPARTE. 
TJRING  the  months  that  I remained  with  Don 


Guillermo,  I studied  well  the  character  of  mine 
host ; and  so  generous  were  his  sentiments,  and  kind 
his  heart,  that  each  day  my  attachment  for  him  in- 
creased. His  life  had  been  a curious  one ; and  as  we 
sat  by  the  table,  one  morning,  imbibing  a mate^I  urged 
him  to  give  me  some  account  of  his  peregrinations 
since  leaving  his  native  land.  Grasping  my  hand,  with 
tears  visible  in  his  eyes,  he  said,  “ My  friend,  if  you 
will  promise  to  search  out  my  relatives,  when  you 
return  to  North  America,  and  give  them  my  history, 
I will  willingly  answer  your  request.”  A brasero  of 
coals  having  been  placed  beneath  the  table,  around 
which  the  members  of  the  household  were  seated, 
Don  Guillermo  commenced  his  recital. 

“At  eighteen  years  of  age,  certain  family  troubles 
occurred,  and  being  a proud-spirited  youth,  I changed 
my  quiet  life  on  shore  for  an  adventurous  one  upon 
the  ocean.  From  my  own  village  I proceeded  to  the 
great  metropolis,  New  York,  and  was  directed,  after 
some  inquiry,  to  a shipping  office,  the  proprietor  of 
which  informed  me  that  he  was  procuring  a large 
crew  for  a vessel,  owned,  and  then  lying,  at  New 


246 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


Bedford.  The  first  question  asked  by  this  gentleman 
was,  4 Have  you  been  round  the  Horn  ? ’ As  this  was 
to  be  my  first  trip  upon  salt  water,  I informed  him  to 
that  effe.ct.  ‘Well,’ continued  he,  ‘that’s  bad  enough. 
Now,  you  see,  I have  already  shipped  all  the  green 
hands  that  are  wanted,  and  the  old  man  sent  word 
down  from  Bedford  forbidding  me  to  take  any  others 
than  such  as  have  made  one  or  two  voyages.  But 
don’t  get  discouraged  at  trifles;  we  will  settle  that 
matter : follow  me.’ 

“In  the  centre  of  the  room  was  a post  or  pillar,  upon 
which  was  a cow’s  horn;  and  round  this  he  walked 
twice,  I following  close  upon  his  heels.  ‘Now,’  said 
the  shipping  master,  ‘ if  any  man,  sailor  or  monkey, 
says  that  you  haven’t  been  round  the  Horn,  just  give 
him  the  lie.  You  can  sign  these  articles,  and  go  up 
to  Bedford  to-morrow  morning,  with  a dozen  likely 
young  men,  who  are  going  to  sea  for  their  health,  and 
they  will  enjoy  themselves,  I don’t  doubt,  as  there  are 
several  gentlemen’s  sons  among  the  crew.’  I was 
amused  at  this  comical  way  of  weathering  the  Horn, 
and  asked  him  if  it  would  not  be  advisable  to  inform 
our  captain  of  the  quick  passage  I had  made ; but  the 
old  fellow  silenced  me  by  stating  that  he  had  shipped 
hundreds  of  sailors  (?)  in  the  same  way,  and  they  had 
all  given  satisfaction. 

“ I left  New  Bedford,  a few  days  later,  in  the  Golconda, 
and,  after  a good  run  round  the  Horn,  we  touched  at 
several  places  on  the  coast  of  Chili,  at  one  of  which 
I left  the  vessel,  and  secretly  joined  a pearl  and  whale 
ship  that  was  bound  to  the  Galapagos  Islands,  with 
the  intention  of  procuring  supplies  of  wood  and  tor- 


TERRAPIN  ISLAND. 


247 


toises,  the  latter  being  a good  remedy  for  scurvy.  The 
first  land  made  after  leaving  the  coast  of  Chili  was 
the  rock  of  Dunda,  which  rises  some  hundreds  of  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here  the  boats  were  low- 
ered to  catch  a species  of  fish  that  weighed  about  six 
pounds,  and  found  in  large  schools  close  in  to  the  rock. 
'With  pieces  of  pork  and  white  rags  greased,  we  caught 
in  a few  hours  several  barrels  full,  which  were  taken 
on  board  the  ship  and  salted  down.  While  fishing, 
the  mate  caught  on  his  hook  a large  serpent,  eight  or 
nine  feet  in  length,  covered  with  scales,  and  nearly  as 
large  as  a man’s  leg.  It  came  into  the  boat  with  severe 
struggles,  during  which  it  knocked  the  mate  senseless, 
and  two  Dutchmen,  from  fright,  jumped  into  the  sea. 
This  rock  is  supposed  to  have  once  belonged  to  the 
Galapagos,  being  in  the  same  range,  and,  with  a fair 
wind,  is  but  a few  hours’  sail  from  the  principal  mem- 
bers of  that  group. 

“ The  ship,  which  had  been  lying  off  and  on,  was  now 
put  before  the  wind,  and  we  steered  for  an  uninhabited 
island  of  the  Galapagos,  called  Terrapin  Island,  and, 
when  near  it,  a party  of  picked  men  were  lowered  in 
the  boats,  with  orders  to  collect  all  the  wood  and  tor- 
toise that  could  be  procured.  The  three  boats’  crews, 
upon  landing,  found  the  island  to  be  composed  of  pum- 
ice-stone, probably  thrown  from  a volcano  in  its  centre. 
Next  the  beach  was  a narrow  strip  of  land,  covered 
with  a light  growth  of  wood,  which  did  not  extend 
forty  rods  inland ; and  though  immediate  search  was 
made  for  water,  not  a drop  could  be  found.  One  of 
the  crew  asserted  that  inland  grew  a stunted  prickly 
pear,  and  dwarf  camphor  tree.  We  were  full  of  fun, 


248 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


and  each  boasted  that  he  knew  where  to  hunt  for  the 
largest  tortoise ; and  a party  of  four,  including  myself, 
set  out  together,  each  promising  to  return  with  a gigan- 
tic one.  , As  we  journeyed  inland,  the  surface  of  the 
island  became  more  irregular,  and  was  filled  with  deep 
cracks  or  chasms,  the  bottoms  of  which,  in  many  in- 
stances, could  not  be  discerned.  These  fissures  de- 
scended far  below  the  level  of  the  sea ; and,  hoping  to 
discover  fresh  water,  we  descended  into  several,  but 
they  were  all  dry  and  warm  as  ovens.  The  rocks 
around  us  were  porous,  and  therefore  must  have  ab- 
sorbed the  water  that  fell  when  it  rained,  which,  in 
these  parts  of  the  world,  is  a rare  occurrence.  Among 
the  rocks  abounded  a sort  of  lizards,  with  long  tails, 
called  iguanas. 

“After  wandering  several  miles  and  not  meeting  with 
tortoises,  a portion  of  the  party  concluded  to  ‘’bout 
ship  ’ and  return,  when  a dispute  arose  regarding  the 
true  direction  to  the  bay  where  the  ship  lay,  and  we 
parted,  I following  the  course  that  appeared  to  be  the 
true  one,  while  my  three  companions  set  out  upon  an 
entirely  different  one.  I continued  on  until  the  shades 
of  evening  enveloped  the  island,  and  made  the  volcano 
look  like  a grim  giant.  Here  I should  have  rested 
until  morning,  as  much  suffering  would  have  been  pre- 
vented ; but,  feeling  confident  that  my  course  was 
right,  I travelled  on  in  the  dark,  and,  as  I afterwards 
learned,  passed  the  bay  without  being  aware  of  its 
proximity.  At  last,  exhausted  with  walking,  I lay 
down  to  sleep  upon  the  pumice-stone;  but  the  heat 
was  so  great,  that  I was  obliged  to  turn  from  side  to 
side  with  the  torture  it  inflicted;  for  the  sun’s  heat 


AN  UNCOMFOETABLE  NIGHT. 


249 


had  been  absorbed  during  the  day  by  these  rocks, 
and  it  was  now  given  off  with  an  intensity  that  was 
truly  astonishing.  I lighted  my  pipe  and  tried  to  for- 
get my  troubles ; but,  almost  dying  with  thirst,  and 
scorched  with  the  slow  fire  beneath  me,  the  night  wore 
heavily  away.  When  morning  came,  I examined  my 
stock  of  matches,  and  found  that  three  remained,  be- 
sides a little  tobacco,  and,  carefully  putting  these  in  a 
safe  pocket,  I directed  my  steps  to  the  tall  mountain, 
which  appeared  to  be  but  a few  miles  distant.  By  so 
doing,  chance  might  favor  me,  as  the  men  had  said,  the 
previous  day,  that  the  prickly  pear  grew  in  the  interior; 
but  my  great  object  was  to  find  water. 

“ When  the  sun  had  reached  the  meridian,  a pair  of 
new  double-soled  shoes,  which  I had  on,  were  worn  or 
burned  through ; I had  found  no  water,  and  the 
mountain  appeared  farther  off  than  it  did  when  I saw 
it  the  previous  morning. 

“ Thanks  to  a good  Providence,  this  misery  was  soon 
to  be  ended,  at  least  for  a time  ; for  while  journeying 
along  late  in  the  afternoon,  with  feet  bleeding  at  every 
step,  I espied  a little  green  hill  that  peeped  above  the 
rocks,  and  with  renewed  energy  I pushed  forward,  and 
sank  fainting  at  its  base. 

“ I soon  recovered  from  the  exhaustion  caused  by  my 
sufferings,  and  as  darkness  came  on,  sleep  overpowered 
and  wrapped  me  in  its  embrace.  It  was  after  midnight 
(so  I judged  by  the  height  of  the  Southern  Cross)  when 
I woke  with  a curious  feeling  caused  by  suffocation. 
Recalling  my  scattered  senses,  I beheld  a huge  pair  of 
jaws  and  two  horrid  eyes  close  to  my  face,  while  a 
clawed  foot  rested  upon  each  shoulder.  I trembled  in 


250 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


every  limb,  but  did  not  lose  my  self-possession  ; and 
now  I laugh  to  think  that  the  cause  of  my  trepidation 
was  nothing  more  than  a harmless  iguana — a large 
species  of  lizard.  A single  movement  of  my  body 
caused  him  to  slide  from  his  place  and  drag  his  ugly 
form  away ; but  he  did  not  choose  to  end  his  antics 
here ; several  hours  he  continued  the  annoyance,  and 
determined  to  make  the  best  of  his  affectionate  ways. 
I threw  a piece  of  pumice-stone  at  him,  and  Mr. 
Iguana  lay  senseless  among  the  rocks.  Cutting  the 
reptile’s  throat  and  catching  the  blood  in  the  heel  of 
my  dilapidated  shoe,  I drank  it  as  if  it  had  been  a bev- 
erage of  cool  milk.  With  refreshed  vigor  I ascended 
the  hill.  It  was  covered  with  grass,  and  little  trees 
resembling  the  American  beech  grew  upon  it.  Flocks 
of  birds  were  flying  about,  and  their  songs  revived  my 
spirits. 

“ Commencing  a search  for  water,  I discovered  a deep 
fissure,  at  the  bottom  of  which  some  shining  substance 
attracted  my  attention,  and  feeling  certain  that  it  was 
water,  I descended  into  the  chasm.  Again  was  I doomed 
to  disappointment.  A soft,  damp  mud  covered  the 
bottom,  in  which  hundreds  of  tiny  tracks  told  me  that 
birds  had  visited  the  spot,  and  that  the  water  which 
had  fallen  from  the  clouds  had  been  drank  or  absorbed 
by  the  soil.  Had  I been  a student  of  natural  history, 
an  hour  could  have  been  whiled  away  in  the  study  of 
ornithichnites ; but,  dropping  all  thoughts  of  science,  I 
made  balls  of  the  mud  and  sucked  the  moisture  they 
contained,  then  climbed  into  the  open  air.  The  birds 
were  exceedingly  tame,  and  suffered  me  to  approach 
and  knock  them  down  with  a stick.  In  this  I beheld 


don  guilleemo’s  sufferings. 


251 


the  beneficence  of  Providence,  for  here  was  food  for 
many  days.  After  killing  several,  I attempted  to  light 
a fire  with  the  three  matches  before  mentioned.  All 
three  failed.  I ate  two  birds  in  a raw  state,  and  went 
in  search  of  an  iguana  to  procure  more  blood  to  quench 
my  thirst.  The  sides  of  the  hill  were  perforated  with 
the  burrows  of  this  animal,  into  which  it  crept,  leaving 
the  tail  outside.  I caught  hold  of  one  lusty  fellow’s 
appendage,  but  was  too  weak  to  pull  him  out ; he  beat 
me  from  side  to  side,  and  I sat  down  upon  a rock  in 
despair. 

“ The  next  day,  when  about  to  leave  the  hill,  a sin- 
gular fact  attracted  my  attention.  The  birds  left  in 
flocks,  and  winging  their  way  towards  the  big  moun- 
tain, returned  in  twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 

“Following  them  for  some  time  with  my  eyes,  I con- 
cluded that  it  was  for  water  that  they  left  the  green 
hill ; and  carefully  marking  their  flight,  I followed  them ; 
but,  weak  and  exhausted,  after  travelling  nearly  a mile 
across  ridges  that  became  more  and  more  difficult  to 
surmount,  it  seemed  advisable  to  return.  An  attempt 
to  capture  a young  iguana  was  successful,  and  this 
quenched  my  thirst,  while  a few  birds’  legs  kept  star- 
vation at  a distance.  Another  night’s  rest  revived  my 
courage,  and  I determined,  come  what  might,  to  make 
one  more  effort  to  reach  the  sea-coast.  Another  day’s 
travel  being  over,  I slept  upon  the  pumice-stone  a few 
miles  from  the  hill.  One  more  day  of  suffering,  and 
when  Night  spread  her  mantle  over  the  island,  I knew 
too  well  that  mental  derangement  was  coming;  but 
still  one  idea  had  possession  of  my  mind  — Onward, 
onward ! 


252 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


44  I crossed  a little  ridge,  and  saw  something  white  at 
its  base ; for  the  moon  had  risen,  and  shed  its  light  over 
the  burning  island  of  pumice-stone.  I lowered  myself 
into  a chasm,  and  examined  it.  My  brain  became  set- 
tled and  attention  fixed;  and  with  horror  I laid  my 
hand  upon  the  skeleton  of  a man  lying  upon  his  face, 
with  a large  tortoise  bound  to  his  back  by  a piece  of 
ratlin.  Poor  fellow  ! he  had,  undoubtedly,  while 
making  his  way  to  his  ship,  missed  his  footing,  and 
fallen  in  such  a way  that  he  was  wedged  in  and  kept 
down  by  the  great  weight  upon  his  back:  perhaps 
the  fall  itself  killed  him  ” “ But,”  said  I,  44  why  did  not 

his  captain  send  men  to  search  for  him  ? ” “ By  ask- 

ing such  a question,  my  friend,”  begun  Don  Guillermo, 
44  you  show  your  ignorance  of  the  character  of  a captain 
of  a whaler.  Do  you  think,  if  the  captain  wished  to 
make  sail,  he  would  wait  even  one  day  to  seek  for  one 
of  his  crew  ? If  you  wish  to  satisfy  yourself  on  this 
point,  try  a voyage  in  a New  Bedford  whaleship,  and 
you  will  soon  be  assured  that  my  opinion  is  true.” 

Don  Guillermo  continued  his  narrative. 

44  This  affecting  sight  filled  my  mind  with  thoughts 
both  joyful  and  dismal — joyful,  because  I knew  that 
the  coast  was  at  hand,  for  the  experience  of  the  few 
days  past  had  taught  me  that  the  tortoise  does  not 
wander  far  inland  — dismal,  because  it  might  be  pre- 
monitive  of  my  own  fate.  With  a giddy  head  I con- 
tinued on  my  way.  Of  the  events  which  occurred 
from  that  time  I have  but  a dim  recollection.  I faintly 
remember  wandering  on  for  many  hours,  and  sleeping 
upon  the  heated  rocks  — the  light  of  day  coming  again, 
when  my  journey  was  continued;  the  sound  of  rushing 


KESCUED. 


253 


waters  — and  then  my  vision  became  clearer.  I re- 
member the  white  sandy  beach  that  seemed  covered 
with  eggs,  and  the  ringing  noise  in  my  ears  — the 
screaming  of  the  sea-birds.  All  this  passed  through 
my  brain  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning;  then,  rush- 
ing frantically  to  the  sea,  I swallowed  greedily  large 
draughts  of  water.  The  cove  was  filled  with  other 
swimmers,  that  gnashed  and  gritted  their  teeth,  as  if 
mocking  my  suffering.  They  were,  in  reality,  seals; 
but,  almost  a maniac,  I jumped  about  among  them 
(so  others  afterwards  informed  me),  cutting  all  kinds 
of  pranks ; at  which  the  whole  school  retreated  with 
fear.  All  then  became  a blank  to  me. 

“ I was  next  aroused  by  the  voices  of  people  engaged 
in  conversation,  together  with  the  strong  smell  of 
liquors,  and,  opening  my  eyes,  I found  myself  in  a 
comfortable  berth  in  the  cabin  of  a vessel,  which,  by  a 
perceptible  motion,  I knew  to  be  under  way.  ‘He 
has  come  to,’  said  a rough  voice ; ‘ there’s  nothing 
like  an  internal  as  well  as  external  application  of 
brandy.’  Two  or  three  persons  came  to  the  berth,  and 
questioned  me  regarding  my  ‘island  excursion.’  Their 
various  applications  had  restored  my  system  to  a com- 
parative degree  of  vigor;  and,  assisted  by  the  second 
officer,  I went  on  deck  to  behold  the  shores  of  Terrapin 
Island  sinking  below  the  horizon. 

“ The  name  of  this  vessel  was  Henry  Astor ; she  was 
a Nantucket  whaler,  and  her  captain,  my  deliverer 
from  a melancholy  fate,  was  Pinkham.  I would  give 
his  name  in  full,  every  letter  of  it,  had  not  nearly 
sixteen  years  of  wandering  obliterated  it  from  my 
memory. 


254 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


“ A few  days’  sail  brought  us  to  the  Marquesas  Islands, 
and  by  that  time  the  sea  air  and  good  living  had  per- 
fectly restored  me  to  health,  and  I was  eager  for  new 
adventures.  Our  captain  proposed  remaining  here  a 
few  days,  in  order  to  procure  fresh  provisions,  and  trade 
was  commenced  with  the  natives  by  bartering  hoop- 
iron,  knives,  beads,  &c.,  in  exchange  for  pigs,  yams, 
cocoanuts,  and  other  fruits.  A small,  uninhabited  island 
near  by  was  resorted  to  by  the  islanders  for  fishing, 
and  our  captain  sent  our  boats  to  secure  a supply 
for  the  men.  We  met  a party  of  natives  with  canoes 
on  one  side  of  the  island,  and  we  became  very  friendly 
in  our  intercourse  with  them. 

“ The  boat  returned  to  the  ship  without  me,  but  con- 
veyed a message  to  the  effect  that  I should  not  return. 
The  reason  for  so  doing  was  satisfactory  to  the  sailors. 
Our  second  officer  was  a Portuguese,  and  a vile  fellow. 
He  so  exasperated  his  watch  while  on  the  passage  from 
Terrapin  Island,  that  they  were  now  ripe  for  mutiny ; 
and  having  no  interest  in  their  affairs,  I did  not  wish 
to  be  one  of  their  number  longer.  The  Henry  Astor 
would  not  return  to  North  America  for  two  or  three 
years,  and  homeward-bound  vessels  (whalers)  some- 
times touched  at  the  Marquesas.  Thus,  if  I remained 
with  the  natives,  there  was  a chance  of  my  being  taken 
off  by  a better-omened  ship  than  the  one  I had  just 
left.  The  next  day  a pearler  hove  in  sight,  and  ran 
close  in  to  land.  I raised  a signal,  and  was  soon  taken 
on  board.  The  vessel  steered  for  Hiva-oa,#  sometimes 

* Hiva-oa  is  about  seventy  miles  south-west  of  Nukuheva, 
the  island  upon  which  Mr.  Herman  Melville,  the  author  of  “ Ty- 
pee,”  passed  four  months  among  the  islanders. 


A FORBIDDEN  VISIT. 


255 


called  Dominica,  and  commenced  business  in  good  ear- 
nest. The  natives  were  employed  to  dive  for  us  in 
four  or  five  fathoms  of  water.  In  this  they  were  very 
expert,  and  some  of  them  could  remain  four  minutes 
under  water.  They  swam  off  to  our  boats  every  morn- 
ing, and  worked  all  day,  receiving  in  payment  for  their 
labor  pieces  of  red  flannel  and  bright-colored  calico. 

“ Strict  orders  were  repeated  to  us  every  morning  re- 
garding our  duties  for  the  day.  We  were  forbidden  to 
go  within  a certain  distance  of  the  shore,  as  the  natives 
were  very  treacherous,  having  captured  and  eaten  an 
English  boat’s  crew  a short  time  before  (1840  or  ’41). 
Three  days  passed  very  pleasantly,  when,  upon  the 
fourth,  word  was  given  to  be  diligent,  as  the  vessel 
would  sail  for  the  coast  of  Japan  with  the  first  fair 
wind.  ‘ What ! ’ exclaimed  one  of  the  boat’s  crew  to 
which  I belonged,  ‘are  we  to  leave  without  setting 
foot  on  Hiva-oa?  Shiver  my  timbers  if  I don’t  go 
ashore  to-morrow  night,  after  work  is  done!  and  the 
old  man  may  send  the  whole  ship’s  company  after  me, 
if  he  likes.’  To  this  expression  the  other  two  agreed, 
and,  not  wishing  to  be  behind  my  comrades,  I consented 
also ; and  before  retiring  to  sleep  we  had  made  arrange- 
ments for  a visit  to  the  dreaded  cannibal  islands. 

“ The  next  morning  the  boats’  crews  commenced  work 
as  usual,  and  at  four  bells  in  the  afternoon  returned  to 
the  ship.  This  was  the  time  agreed  upon  for  carrying 
out  our  design.  The  natives,  wTho  were  with  us  during 
the  day,  had  swam  ashore,  and  disappeared  among  the 
cocoa-nut  groves,  and  the  only  living  objects  in  sight 
were  a party  of  women,  and  two  or  three  old  men,  the 
former  engaged  in  various  diversions,  and  the  latter 


256 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


sitting  like  statues  near  them.  It  was  the  custom  of 
these  females  to  collect  in  groups  near  the  sea-shore 
during  the  day,  and  watch  their  husbands  and  lovers, 
who  were  hard  at  work  diving  for  the  pearl-oyster;  and 
taking  advantage  of  this  circumstance,  we  came  pre- 
pared for  the  party.  Upon  landing,  we  distributed 
from  our  well-filled  pockets  various  little  presents,  and 
were  at  once  treated  with  the  greatest  kindness.  The 
looking-glass  that  we  brought  filled  them  with  aston- 
ishment, and  Cram,  a young  Pennsylvanian,  was  en- 
deavoring to  teach  them  the  philosophy  of  it  by  all 
sorts  of  gestures,  when  a low  murmur  caused  us  to  look 
seaward  ; and  lo ! a long  line  of  men,  the  fathers,  broth- 
ers, and  lovers  of  the  female  party,  were  advancing 
towards  us,  and  as  we  hastily  rose  to  depart,  they 
pointed  towards  the  interior,  and  made  signs  for  us  to 
go  inland. 

“ Too  late  we  perceived  our  boyish  error ; the  boat 
had  been  secured,  and  there  was  no  chance  for  retreat, 
and  sullenly  we  marched  on  in  advance  of  the  island- 
ers. All  the  way  Cram  grumbled  at  the  fate  that  might 
be  ours.  He  blessed  his  top-lights,  then  cursed  them, 
the  women,  who  followed,  laughing  all  the  while  at  his 
curious  physiognomy.  As  we  drew  near  the  end  of  a 
beautiful  valley,  in  which  the  natives  dwelt,  Cram  felt 
quite  at  home,  and  remarked  that  it  was  not  ‘ much  of 
any  consequence  where  a person  lived.  These  fellows,’ 
said  he,  1 have  plenty  to  eat,  and  don’t  have  to  turn  to 
every  morning  while  in  port,  or  every  watch  when  at 
sea.  If  the  king  here  will  give  me  his  daughter,  I will 
settle  down  on  a farm  after  swallowing  my  sheet  an- 
chor ; ’ and  putting  a quid  of  tobacco  in  his  mouth,  he 


AMONG  THE  ISLANDERS. 


257 


squirted  the  juice  right  and  left  among  the  crowd,  who 
became  wild  with  mirth. 

“Thanks  to  our  previous  kind  treatment  to  the  island- 
ers, upon  arriving  at  their  village  they  gave  us  to  un- 
derstand that  we  should  receive  no  harm.  We  did  not 
go  through  any  trial,  or  appear  before  any  council ; but 
by  gestures  they  made  known  to  us  that  each  of  our 
number  could  choose  a place  of  residence  from  among 
the  two  or  three  hundred  habitations  in  the  valley.  I 
fancied  that  of  an  old  man,  who  must  have  been,  in  his 
younger  days,  a great  warrior,  as  his  body  was  covered 
with  scars,  and  one  longitudinal  one,  that,  commencing 
upon  his  forehead,  and  ending  with  the  chin,  excited 
my  amazement,  for  the  skull  had  evidently  been  split 
by  some  weapon,  from  the  effects  of  which  he  sometimes 
labored  under  temporary  insanity.  At  Cram’s  sugges- 
tion, we  christened  him  ‘ Old  Split  Head.’  The  three 
other  sailors  were  quartered  in  habitations  near  my 
own,  and  for  a few  days  we  lived  contentedly  enough, 
every  wish  being  anticipated  and  satisfied  by  these 
kind  people. 

“ One  morning,  about  a week  after  our  capture,  while 
talking  together,  the  conversation  was  suddenly  inter- 
rupted by  the  booming  of  cannon,  and  we  arose  to  go 
down  to  the  beach,  but  were  prevented  by  our  captors. 
Report  after  report  followed,  and  echoed  among  the 
hills  that  divided  the  island  into  separate  parts.  I was 
convinced  by  these  sounds  that  our  ship  had  got  under 
way,  and  was  exercising  her  two  or  three  rusty  guns 
for  our  benefit.  But  what  seemed  stranger  than  all 
was,  that  these  reports  came  from  the  opposite  side  of 
the  island,  and  from  an  entirely  different  direction  from 
17 


258 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


her  former  anchorage.  Cram  laughed  at  my  opinions, 
and  harangued  the  other  two  after  this  fashion : ‘ He 
says  that  it’s  our  craft  that’s  making  all  that  noise.  I’ll 
sell  myself  for  a sea-cook  if  it  isn’t  one  of  those  parlez- 
vous  French  men-o’-war  that’s  come  along,  and  heard 
that  we  are  among  this  confounded  set.  Now,  ship- 
mates, what  say  you?  Here  we  have  been  loafing 
about  like  a set  of  lobster  marines,  doing  nothing,  nor 
serving  mankind,  and  it’s  a certain  fact  that  we  have 
got  to  be  laid  up  here  until  we  get  away.  Now,  I,  for 
one,  am  heartily  tired  of  this  wasting  of  energies ; and 
as  for  living  here  listening  to  these  cocoa-nut  eaters, 
who  expect  to  tattoo  us  into  Davy  Jones’s  locker,  I 
won’t;  so  come  along.  We  can  make  a straight  course 
across  those  big  hills  yonder,  and  then  hurrah  for  Johnny 
Crapo’s  boats.  If  you  will  all  start,  I’ll  agree  to  steer 
my  trick  to-night,  if  it  is  aboard  a French  man-o’-war.’ 
The  two  sailors  were  overpowered  by  Cram’s  eloquence, 
and  swore  roundly  that  they  would  follow  him,  if  he 
set  out  instantly. 

“Now,  all  the  while  the  natives  had  been  watching 
us,  and  when  the  orator,  during  his  speech,  pointed  to 
the  hills,  they  at  once  comprehended  their  prisoners’ 
intentions,  and,  coming  forward,  an  old  man,  better 
dressed  than  the  others,  gave  us  to  understand,  through 
signs,  that  upon  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  dwelt 
other  savages,  who  were  their  enemies.  Nothing 
daunted,  Cram  and  his  associates  set  out  for  the  moun- 
tain, followed  by  a party  of  islanders,  who  continued 
expostulating  with  them  until  they  reached  its  base. 

“ The  old  man,  whom  I now  took  to  be  the  chief,  in 
an  authoritative  manner,  despatched  a second  party; 


A CRUEL  FATE. 


259 


but  Cram  and  the  other  two  showed  fight,  and,  rolling 
down  large  stones  upon  the  chief’s  men,  prevented  them 
from  advancing.  As  the  three  reckless  fellows  neared 
the  summit  of  the  mountain,  they  were  watched  with 
intense  interest  by  the  people  below.  A few  minutes 
more,  and  they  had  disappeared  on  the  other  side, 
where  they  met  the  savages  of  whom  they  had  been 
warned,  who  drove  them  back,  fighting  wfith  great  fury. 
The  men  in  our  village  ran  for  their  arms,  and  a loud 
shout  resounded  throughout  the  valley.  Twice  I started 
to  join  in  the  affray;  but  those  near  me  prevented  my 
departure.  The  fight  lasted  about  fifteen  minutes,  and 
was  ended  by  the  death  of  the  white  men,  my  compan- 
ions. The  captors  retired  to  their  own  territory,  whil& 
I wept  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  my  native  land. 
I was  but  just  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  was,  perhaps, 
a prisoner  for  life,  destined  to  live  apart  from  my  coun- 
trymen. I had  been  nurtured  in  refinement,  and 
trained  under  the  holy  influence  of  a mother’s  prayers ; 
and  now  a most  miserable  life  was  before  me,  indolence 
and  barbarity. 

“ The  fate  of  my  friends  was  a cruel  one.  The  natives 
around  the  base  of  the  mountain  saw  them  fight  bravely 
until  overpowered  by  superior  numbers,  when  one  by 
one  the  three  sailors  were  felled  to  the  earth.  Cram 
was  seen  struggling  with  an  islander  until  another  na- 
tive, with  his  spear,  broke  the  poor  fellow’s  jaw,  and 
he  was  obliged  to  surrender. 

“About  noon  the  next  day  came  a deputation  from 
the  people  of  the  territory  behind  the  mountains  to 
make  peace  with  our  ‘Tehoke’  (principal  chief),  which 
caused  a great  palaver  among  our  natives.  To  appease 


260 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


our  chief,  a gift  was  presented  him  by  the  committee. 
It  was  rolled  up  in  cocoa-nut  leaves,  the  first  layer  of 
which  was  green,  as  if  just  gathered  from  the  trees. 
While  they  slowly  unrolled  the  present,  the  natives 
clustered  around  it,  and  as  wrapper  after  wrapper  fell 
to  the  ground,  a sight  was  disclosed  that  caused  me  to 
shudder.  It  was  a fitting  present  from  cannibals,  the 
leg  of  poor  Cram,  browned  from  the  effects  of  fire.  I 
identified  the  limb  by  means  of  a tattooed  ring  upon 
the  calf,  that  still  retained  the  original  color.  But  this 
gift,  instead  of  soothing  the  ire  of  the  haughty  ‘ Te- 
hoke,’  produced  an  entirely  different  effect ; for  he  called 
a council,  and,  after  a palaver,  the  cannibal  committee 
were  dismissed,  and  war  formally  declared.  The  island- 
ers were  wild  with  excitement,  and  I was  made  to 
sing,  in  the  midst  of  the  rabble,  a grand  lioolo-hoolo , 
and  to  dance,  which  I did  to  the  music  of  a drum, 
made  by  stretching  human  skin  across  the  ends  of  a 
short,  hollow  log. 

“ At  dawn  on  the  following  day,  an  army  of  nearly 
three  hundred  men  ascended  the  mountain,  and  disap- 
peared over  the  summit. 

“ The  day  of  battle  wTas  one  of  nature’s  loveliest.  The 
rays  of  the  sun,  with  trembling  light,  pierced  the  dense 
foliage  of  the  groves  around  the  absent  warriors’  homes, 
and  sparkled  upon  the  cool  streams  of  water  meander- 
ing along  the  valley,  and  falling  in  little  cascades  among 
the  rocks.  It  would  seem  a time  and  place  for  quiet 
thoughts  and  pious  meditation.  But  my  mind  was  not 
in  a fit  state  to  appreciate  the  beauty  that  reposed 
around  me.  I wandered  through  the  valley,  thinking 
of  my  curious  situation,  of  the  strange  beings  who  were 


A VICTORY. 


261 


my  companions,  and  my  isolation  from  civilization.  I 
thought  of  the  happy  Canadian  home  that  I had  left, 
and  my  memory  went  back  to  a beautiful  Sabbath 
morning  (the  'day  prior  to  my  departure  from  home), 
when,  taking  the  hand  of  my  sister,  I led  her  to  a little 
wood  behind  the  house,  and  there  she  sang  to  me  a 
song,  the  words  of  which  have  since  rung  in  my  ears, 
through  all  my  wanderings,  over  sea  and  land,  and 
have  kept  me  from  the  errors  that  have  caused  the 
downfall  of  thousands. 

“ Perched  upon  the  top  of  a cocoa-nut  tree,  Old  Split 
Head  kept  on  the  lookout  for  news.  Beyond  him 
another  dark  head  peeped  above  the  foliage,  and  still 
nearer  the  mountain  another  and  another  native  could 
be  seen.  This  was  a telegraphic  line  of  communica- 
tion. 

“ Soon  after  the  natives  had  disappeared  over  the 
mountain,  the  reports  of  a few  muskets,  obtained  from 
the  English  boat’s  crew  that  was  captured  some  months 
before,  together  with  distant  shouts,  told  me  that  the 
game  was  up.  After  this,  a long  silence  caused  me  to 
doubt  as  to  who  were  the  victors,  for  I believed  that 
if  our  party  were  successful,  they  would  return  quickly 
with  what  booty  could  be  obtained. 

“ About  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  a courier  ap- 
peared on  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  and  a telegraphic 
message  came  quickly  to  Old  Split  Head,  who  was 
beside  me  at  the  door.  Now,  as  my  guardian  attempt- 
ed to  communicate  the  intelligence  to  me,  he  became 
so  excited  that  he  could  do  nothing  more  than  jump 
high  in  the  air,  roll  over  and  over  upon  the  ground, 
and  shake  his  long  spear  at  a tree.  He  then  caught 


262 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


me  by  the  arm,  and  led  me  to  the  beach,  where  the 
army  arrived,  an  hour  after,  in  six  large  war-canoes, 
each  holding  above  fifty  rowers.  These  canoes,  to- 
gether with  three  men,  and  many  pigs  and  weapons, 
had  been  captured  during  the  engagement.  The  three 
captive  warriors  lay  bound  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat, 
and  were  unable  to  move  hand  or  foot. 

“ Now  commenced  a great  hoolo-hoolo,  during  which 
I was  embraced  by  the  Telioke  in  presence  of  the 
multitude.  The  three  prisoners  were  removed  to  a 
little  square  formed  by  a wall  of  stones,  and  left  under 
a guard  for  the  night,  and  I was  informed  that  upon 
the  next  day  I should  receive  a high  taboo.  This  is 
a mark  of  distinction  and  privilege,  differing  according 
to  the  grade  or  class  of  the  taboo  — some  causing  the 
person  tabooed  to  stand  above  those  who  have  a low 
mark  upon  them.  This  favor  is  only  given  to  men ; 
the  women  do  not  receive  it,  and  are,  therefore,  in  one 
sense,  slaves  to  their  husbands.  The  next  morning  the 
Tehoke  performed  the  process  of  tabooing,  by  passing 
over  my  head  a piece  of  tappa  (native  cloth),  and 
pronouncing  several  words  not  comprehended  by  me. 
After  this  the  Tehoke  presented  me  with  two  wives, 
one  of  whom  was  his  own  daughter,  and  Split  Head, 
with  two  ingenious  fellows,  built  in  the  course  of  the 
day  a new  habitation,  in  which  I was  to  dwell. 

“Now  came  the  hour  in  which  the  prisoners  taken 
during  the  battle  were  to  meet  their  doom.  They 
were  seized  by  a party  of  natives,  and  each  one  placed 
erect,  with  his  back  against  a cocoa-nut  tree.  Around 
the  neck  of  the  victim,  and  trunk  of  the  tree,  was  wound 
a short  piece  of  native  rope,  and  a stick  being  placed 


TABOOING  AND  TATTOOING. 


263 


in  the  bight,  it  was  turned  around  several  times,  until 
the  tongue  protruded  from  the  mouth,  and  the  prisoner 
was  dead.  Deep  holes  were  dug  and  lined  with  stones, 
upon  which  a large  fire  was  kindled,  and  allowed  to 
continue  burning  until  the  stones  were  very  hot.  The 
ashes  and  sticks  were  raked  out,  and  the  bodies  of  the 
prisoners,  which  had  been  previously  wrapped  in  many 
layers  of  cocoa-nut  leaves,  were  laid  in  the  cavities,  and 
hot  stones  placed  upon  them.  There  was  no  chance 
of  straying  from  the  spot,  as  I sat  close  by  the  Tehoke ; 
but  I sickened  and  my  head  grew  dizzy  at  the  horrid 
sight.  The  horrors  of  a cannibal  feast  I will  not  de- 
scribe. Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  natives  became  in  my 
eyes  as  wild  animals  devouring  prey. 

“ I now  led  a more  agreeable  life  than  I had  formerly 
enjoyed,  that  is  to  say,  if  enjoyment  consists  in  having 
a mind  free  from  care  or  trouble.  Before  the  taboo 
had  been  placed  upon  me,  there  were  times  when  some 
of  the  natives  attempted  great  freedom  with  my  per- 
son, and  were  a source  of  trouble  to  me.  Now  I lived 
as  the  chief’s  son-in-law,  and  as  a person  of  distinction, 
as  I possessed  a high  taboo.  I was  ingenious,  and  by 
repairing  the  old  flint-lock  muskets  of  the  chief,  took 
a new  stand  as  a man  of  superior  endowment.  As 
month  after  month  passed  away,  I became  more  accus- 
tomed to  my  situation,  and  felt,  at  times,  almost  con- 
tented with  my  lot.  I began  to  acquire  the  language, 
and  took  part  in  the  councils  of  the  chiefs,  where  my 
word  was  valued.  During  all  this  time  I passed  but  one 
ordeal,  that  of  tattooing.  I was  taken  by  force  from 
my  dwelling,  and,  being  laid  upon  my  back,  underwent 
an  operation,  the  effects  of  which  I shall  carry  with 
me  to  the  grave.” 


2G4 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


So  saying,  Don  Guillermo  divested  himself  of  his 
shirt,  and  there  were  visible  upon  his  breast  two  curious 
specimens  of  Marquesian  tattooing.  “ This  figure  on  my 
left  side,”  said  he,  “ is  intended  to  represent  the  moon, 
while  the  one  on  the  right  is  the  sun.”  Upon  his  thighs 
and  arms  were  other  figures  equally  curious  as  those  upon 
his  breast.  He  then  continued  : “ Once  I was  dragged 
out  to  be  ornamented  upon  the  face;  but  I struggled 
and  begged  so  hard  to  escape  from  the  hands  of  the 
artists,  that  Old  Split  Head,  whose  influence  was  consid- 
erable, interceded  with  the  islanders,  and  I was  permitted 
to  go  free.  Having  acquired  the  dialect,  the  natives 
placed  more  confidence  in  me  than  they  had  previously 
done,  and  I walked  along  the  sea-coast  two  or  three  times 
a week  with  the  hope  of  seeing  a vessel.  Once  or  twice 
I descried  ships  in  the  distance,  but  was  doomed  again 
and  again  to  disappointment,  as  they  did  not  approach 
the  island;  and  for  eleven  long,  weary  months,  did  I 
remain  a prisoner  among  the  cannibals  of  Hiva-oa. 

“In  conversing  with  the  islanders,  they  had  often 
spoken  of  a foreigner,  who,  by  some  accident,  had  been 
a resident  among  them.  They  called  him  Oorie,  and 
though  I questioned  them  regarding  his  escape,  they 
would  not  give  me  any  clew  by  means  of  which  I could 
ascertain  the  method  he  used  to  obtain  his  freedom.  I 
afterwards  comforted  myself  by  believing  that  as  one 
person  had  been  taken  off  the  island,  another  might 
meet  with  the  same  good  fortune ; and  from  the  time  I 
received  the  above  information,  my  eyes  were  always 
gazing  over  the  surface  of  the  ocean  for  a glimpse  of  a 
distant  sail. 

“ As  the  eleventh  month  of  my  life  among  the  canni- 


ESCAPE  FROM  THE  ISLAND. 


265 


bals  drew  to  its  close,  a wlialer  from  North  America 
dropped  anchor  in  the  little  bay,  and  almost  in  the 
same  spot  where,  nearly  a year  before,  I had  gazed  with 
admiration  upon  the  tropical  scenery  of  my  new  island 
home,  the  prison-ground  that  debarred  me  from  civiliza- 
tion. The  rare  event  of  a ship  visiting  Hiva-oa  threw 
its  inhabitants  into  a state  of  great  excitement,  some  of 
whom  were  for  having  me  closely  guarded,  while  others, 
too  much  occupied  in  getting  ready  their  fruits  for  a 
market,  only  laughed  and  shouted  to  increase  the  con- 
fusion that  everywhere  prevailed.  During  the  hubbub 
and  clamor  of  voices,  I conversed  with  some  of  the 
females,  whose  ideas  of  a ship  and  the  uses  to  which 
one  is  applied,  were  of  the  most  primitive  kind. 
‘ Where  does  the  great  monster  live,  and  from  what 
country  does  it  travel?’  they  asked,  gazing  at  the  same 
time  eagerly  into  my  face,  as  if  expecting  to  receive 
an  incorrect  reply.  ‘ It  comes  from  my  own  country, 
which  is  a long  way  off,’  I answered.  To  this  one 
young  girl  gravely  responded,  ‘ Then  your  home  is  in 
the  clouds,  for  this  thing  (the  ship)  rains  down ; we 
have  seen  the  same  before  two  or  three  times.’ 

“The  men  swam  off  to  the  vessel,  and,  while  absent, 
I endeavored  to  persuade  some  of  the  chiefs  to  allow 
me  to  go  upon  the  same  errand  the  next  day;  but  in 
this  I was  unsuccessful.  They  sternly  objected  to  my 
appeals,  and,  urged  to  desperation,  I projected  an  es- 
cape, but  was  twice  foiled  in  the  attempt. 

“The  second  night  after  the  whaler  arrived,  I left  the 
hut  before  the  islanders  arose  from  their  slumbers,  and, 
though  my  movements  had  been  watched,  I reached  a 
branch  of  the  valley  stream,  and,  wading  along  its 


266 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


course  up  to  my  chin  -in  water,  soon  entered  the  sea, 
and  boldly  struck  out  for  the  vessel  that  lay  at  her 
anchorage. 

“ The  man  who  had  the  anchor  watch  saw  the  gleam 
of  light  in  my  wake,  caused  by  the  displacement  of  the 
water,  for  the  moon  was  high  in  the  heavens,  and  the 
smallest  object  could  be  easily  distinguished.  Think- 
ing I was  a savage  on  a predatory  excursion,  he  called 
the  mate,  who  in  turn  aroused  the  captain.  A rope 
was  thrown  to  me,  and  half  an  hour  after  leaving  my 
hut  of  canes  and  cocoa-nut  boughs,  I was  surrounded 
by  a half-naked  group  of  down-east  greenhorns,  who 
kindly  presented  me  with  a suit  of  clothes,  in  place  of 
my  island  one  of  tappa. 

“ The  next  morning,  the  master  of  the  whaler,  Captain 
Brown,  thinking  that  my  escape  might  exasperate  the 
natives,  mast-headed  the  topsail  yards,  and  heaved 
short  our  cable,  to  be  in  readiness  to  leave  in  the 
afternoon,  at  the  moment  the  heavens  gave  indications 
of  a breeze.  While  these  preparations  were  under 
way,  Old  Split  Head  came  down  the  beach,  and  loudly 
shouted  my  name.  To  prove  his  affection  for  me,  I did 
not  answer  his  call ; whereupon  he  danced  about  for 
some  time,  clutching  his  hair,  and  then  rolling  upon 
the  sand,  appearing  to  be  in  hysterics. 

“ Towards  three  o’clock  came  the  wished-for  breeze, 
and  with  it  the  order  to  4 fill  away  the  topsails.’ 
Springing  to  the  sheets,  a party  of  us  hauled  them 
home,  while  others  heaved  up  the  anchor,  and  as  we 
slowly  stretched  away  from  Hiva-oa,  I breathed  a 
prayer  of  thanks  for  my  safe  deliverance.  The  long 
line  of  natives  upon  the  beach,  at  sight  of  our  depart- 


FAKEWELL  TO  “OLD  SPLIT  HEAD.” 


267 


ure,  could  restrain  themselves  no  longer,  for  above 
forty  threw  themselves  into  the  sea,  and  followed  after 
us  like  a school  of  porpoises.  I threw  out  a rope  for 
Old  Split  Head,  and  the  rapidity  with  which  he  as- 
cended the  ship’s  side  drew  many  remarks  of  admira- 
tion from  the  sailors,  who  declared  that  ‘ no  salt  could 
have  done  it  better.’  The  instant  he  touched  the  deck 
he  embraced  me,  and,  refusing  to  be  comforted,  pointed 
over  the  ship’s  side  at  one  of  my  wives,  who  was  tread- 
ing water,  and  softly  uttered  her  name  many  times  — 
‘ Cuahoo ! Cuahoo ! ’ Captain  Brown  gave  the  old  fellow 
several  pieces  of  red  flannel,  and  a few  pounds  of  to- 
bacco, and,  rolling  the  latter  in  the  cloth,  he  lashed  the 
bundle  to  his  head,  and  with  a long,  tearful  embrace, 
we  parted. 

“ This  was  the  last  time  I saw  Old  Split  Head,  who 
was  the  truest  and  best  friend  I ever  had ; and  many 
times  since  we  parted,  when  amid  trials  and  sufferings, 
my  thoughts  have  turned  to  our  little  hut  beneath  the 
cocoa-nut  grove,  where  so  many  hours  had  been  passed 
in  his  company,  savage  though  he  was ; and  I have 
regretted  leaving  that  romantic  island.  Then  reason 
and  the  voice  of  duty  have  said,  ‘You  were  born 
among  civilized  people,  and  it  is  your  duty  to  act 
manfully  against  vicissitudes ; but  to  live  a life  of  ease 
and  pleasure,  surrounded  by  things  that  injure  rather 
than  strengthen  the  noble  faculties  of  the  soul,  is  sinful, 
and  is  not  in  accordance  with  the  principles  of  truth 
and  of  the  Bible.’ 

“From  Hiva-oa  a breeze  wafted  us  into  Talcahuana, 
the  port  of  Concepcion,  Chili,  where  I remained  for 
some  months,  working  at  different  trades,  in  nearly  all 


268 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


of  which  I was  able  to  compete  with  the  native  work- 
men. I could  relate  to  you  many  interesting  stories 
of  the  Araucanian  Indians,  who  occupy  the  south  of 
Chili,  and  often  come  to  Concepcion  to  barter  their 
ponchos,  mantas,  &c.,  for  English  articles ; but  having 
occupied  much  of  your  time,  I shall  draw  my  narrative 
to  a close  as  soon  as  possible. 

“ While  residing  in  Chili,  I made  the  acquaintance 
of  two  young  men,  who,  having  visited  Juan  Fernan- 
dez, spoke  encouragingly  of  the  chances  that  existed 
for  making  money  upon  that  island.  And  they  pro- 
posed that  we  should  purchase  a boat  and  repair  to  the 
island,  where  thousands  of  goats  run  wild,  and  there 
pass  a few  months  in  securing  the  skins  of  these 
animals,  after  which  we  were  to  sail  to  Masafuero,  an 
adjacent  island,  where  there  were  a large  number  of 
seals. 

“I  had  earned  by  this  time  a sufficient  sum  of  money 
to  accept  of  their  offer,  and  they  being  supplied  with 
like  amounts,  we  purchased  a large  whale  boat,  a stock 
of  provisions,  and  three  dogs,  besides  guns,  ammuni- 
tion, and  all  the  accessories  necessary  to  insure  success 
to  our  enterprise.  We  bargained  with  the  captain  of 
a vessel  that  wras  about  leaving  Talcahuano  for  a sperm 
whale  cruise,  to  leave  us  to  ourselves  when  the  ship 
hove  in  sight  of  Juan  Fernandez,  near  which  his  course 
lay.  One  thing  more  was  yet  to  be  done  ; we  had  no 
person  to  do  the  drudgery  of  preparing  and  cooking 
our  food.  Our  choice,  therefore,  fell  upon  a stout 
negro,  called  Pedro,  who  was  fluent  in  the  use  of  the 
English  and  Spanish  languages,  and  for  a low  sum  we 
secured  his  services. 


HUNTING  GOATS. 


269 


“ The  ship  put  to  sea  with  a gentle  breeze  one  fine 
morning,  and  early  on  the  fourth  day  the  rough  peaks 
of  the  island  were  seen  above  the  horizon. 

“Preparations  commenced  immediately  for  disem- 
barkation. Our  little  craft  was  launched,  the  masts 
stepped,  her  cargo  carefully  adjusted,  and  quickly  tum- 
bling in  our  dogs  and  Pedro,  we  bade  adieu  to  the 
whaler. 

“ Though  the  breeze  blew  fresh  at  the  time  we  left  the 
ship,  and  our  party  spread  every  stitch  of  canvas,  it 
was  not  until  night  set  in  that  our  boat  grounded  amid 
the  surf  upon  the  white  sandy  beach  of  the  romantic 
Robinson  Crusoe  island,  and  we  all  crawled  on  shore 
drenched  with  spray  to  the  skin. 

“ A few  days  after,  a hut  was  completed,  and  our 
party  commenced  business  in  good  earnest ; and  while 
the  three  whites  were  occupied  in  capturing  the  goats, 
the  black,  Pedro,  officiated  as  cook  and  housekeeper  in 
our  little  dwelling.  Among  the  cliffs  the  goats  scam- 
pered about  singly  and  in  little  parties.  It  was  our 
object  to  concentrate  all  stragglers,  and  driving  them 
into  some  little  nook  or  valley,  from  which  there  was 
no  escape,  we  shot  them  down,  or,  when  practicable, 
captured  them  with  the  lasso.  In  collecting  the  stray 
goats  into  parties,  we  were  greatly  assisted  by  our 
dogs,  which  had  been  trained  for  the  purpose. 

“ When  the  animals  abounded  in  places  where  the 
valleys  were  large  and  did  not  afford  opportunities  for 
capturing  them,  we  built  stone  enclosures,  and  in  them 
intrapped  large  numbers.  To  capture  and  skin  thirty 
goats  was  considered  no  more  than  a good  day’s  labor 
for  each  man.  Thus  our  pile  of  skins  towered  higher 


270 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


each  day,  and  promised  us  a little  fortune  when  we 
should  dispose  of  them  on  the  continent. 

“While  enjoying  this  success,  a distant  sail  was 
distinguished  one  afternoon  by  Pedro,  who  ran  out 
of  his  domicile  to  inform  us  of  the  welcome  fact.  The 
following  day  our  hut  was  honored  by  the  presence  of 
one  of  South  America’s  best  and  greatest  children,  the 
patriotic  and  learned  Don  Domingo  F.  Sarmiento, 
who,  having  been  sent  abroad,  by  the  government  of 
Chili,  to  visit  different  portions  of  the  world,  to  gain 
information  of  superior  customs,  with  the  intention  of 
introducing  such  as  were  practicable  to  that  republic 
on  his  return,  had  first  called  at  this  island,  which  be- 
longs to  that  government. 

“ Though  sent  upon  such  a commission,  Sarmiento 
was  not  a Chileno  by  birth,  but  had  resided  in  Chili 
some  years,  having  been  exiled  from  his  native  country, 
the  Argentine  Republic,  by  the  tyrannical  Rosas,  who 
was  ever  uneasy  when  a philanthropist  or  scholar  was 
within  the  land  over  which  he  stretched  his  arm  of 
iron  and  bathed  his  hands  in  the  blood  of  her  people. 
It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  give  you  an  account  of  the 
stay  of  this  great  man  upon  the  island  ; suffice  it  to 
say,  we  became  very  intimate,  he  sleeping  nine  suc- 
cessive nights  upon  my  bed  of  goat-skins  ; and  when  I 
visited  him  in  Chili,  after  his  return  from  Europe  and 
North  America,  he  presented  me  with  a copy  of  his 
travels,  ‘ Viages  de  Sarmiento ,’  in  which  you  will  find 
the  particulars  of  the  visit.  Before  General  Rosas  was 
driven  out  of  office  and  country,  Sarmiento  himself 
had  crossed  the  Cordillera  and  Pampas,  and  was  fight- 
ing against  the  army  of  the  tyrant;  and  while  on  a 


DON  SARMIENTO. 


271 


visit  to  him,  he  said,  handing  me  a trusty  sword,  ‘Don 
Guillermo,  your  ingenuity  is  remarkable.  I have  not 
been  able  to  clean  this  instrument.  Will  you  oblige 
me  by  removing  from  it  all  traces  of  rust?  ’ He  then 
reached  his  hand  above  an  escritorio , and  as  he  held 
out  another  weapon,  a smile  playing  upon  his  noble 
features,  he  said,  ‘My  friend,  this  sword  you  need 
not  clean;  I shall  keep  it  as  a memorial;  for  upon  its 
surface  are  blood-stains  from  the  heart  of  a tyrant,  who 
would  have  been  like  Rosas,  had  not  I,  while  in  the 
engagement,  sought  him  out  and  thrust  my  trusty  steel 
through  his  heart.  Now  I can  go  back  to  the  Argen- 
tine Republic  and  to  freedom,  for  the  tyrant  and  his 
Masorca * have  been  driven  from  their  stronghold, 
and  their  dread  influence  is  at  an  end.’ 

“After  remaining  some  few  months  on  Juan  Fernandez 
and  the  neighboring  Masafuero,  a whaler  arrived  and 
took  off  our  company  with  their  property.  Before  the 
ship  left  the  island,  according  to  a promise  I had  made 
to  Sarmiento,  I cut  his  name  deep  in  a ledge  of  rock, 
where  it  can  be  seen  at  the  present  day. 

“Welcome  was  the  first  sight  of  the  main  land 
after  months  spent  upon  a small  island.  When  we 
reached  Valparaiso,  to  our  dismay  the  price  of  goat- 
skins and  furs  had  fallen,  and  in  place  of  receiving 
the  expected  several  thousand  dollars  in  return  for 
my  goods,  I quietly  pocketed  six  hundred  dollars, 
and  swallowed  my  disappointment.  The  goat-skins 

* The  Masorca  was  a club  of  three  hundred  men,  organized 
by  Rosas  to  cut  the  throats  of  his  political  foes  and  defenceless 
citizens,  who  would  not  succumb  to  his  tyrannical  sway. 


272 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


brought  one  real  (12£  cents),  and  in  some  cases  two 
reals  each,  while  the  seals  commanded  from  three  to 
six  reals. 

“Not  caring  to  follow  a roving  life  any  longer,  I pro- 
ceeded to  the  capital  of  Chili,  the  beautiful  Santiago, 
and  for  a time  found  entertainment  in  pursuing  various 
trades.  About  this  time  I made  the  acquaintance  of  • 
a young  artist  from  North  America.  Troubles  had 
driven  him,  like  myself,  from  a good  home,  and,  being 
often  together,  our  attachment  became  such  that  it  was 
spoken  of  by  every  one.  One  evening,  as  we  walked 
arm  in  arm  along  the  Tauamar,  and  near  Fort  Santa 
Lucia,  he  pointed  in  the  direction  of  a nunnery,  and 
said,  4 Within  those  walls  is  a young  lady  that  I would 
have  married  long  ago,  but  her  parents,  despising  one 
they  were  pleased  to  call  a gringo , placed  her  in  that 
building,  fearing  that  she  might  elope  with  her  lover 
to  some  other  part  of  the  country.  Once  or  twice  I 
have  received  letters  from  her,  and,  like  myself,  she 
does  not  care  to  live  longer,  and  unless  w'e  can  be 
united  soon,  nothing  but  the  death  of  the  suicide  is 
left  to  me.’  I was  greatly  affected  at  this  disclosure, 
which  only  served  to  bind  our  friendship  still  stronger. 

I was  not  the  only  friend  from  whom  the  young  artist 
could  draw  sympathy.  A daring  North  American, 
armed  with  a Colt’s  revolver  and  a fine  key-hole  saw, 
repaired  one  dark  night  to  the  nunnery,  scaled  its 
walls,  and  tearing  off  the  tiles,  cut  a hole  through  the 
porous  wood-roof,  and  took  from  the  praying-room  the 
young  betrothed,  who  had  made  a vow  to  her  conjuror 
to  resort  to  that  place  each  night  to  pray  until  her 
prayers  were  answered,  but  in  a very  different  manner 


AN  ELOPEMENT. 


273 


than  the  priest  would  have  wished,  had  he  known  the 
blessing  asked  for. 

“ The  next  day  the  lovers  were  united,  and  bade  me 
farewell  forever.  Before  the  vigilantes  were  summoned 
to  retake  the  couple  or  arrest  the  perpetrator  of  the 
deed,  against  whom  injured  Catholicism  raised  a loud 
cry,  the  bride  and  bridegroom,  mounted  on  fleet  horses, 
were  on  their  way  to  Bolivia,  where  they  are  now 
probably  residing. 

“ It  was  proved  that,  at  the  time  of  the  rescue,  our 
countryman,  the  artist,  was  in  some  other  place;  and 
being  his  friend,  and  known  to  be  ingenious,  I was 
pointed  out  as  the  culprit.  People  became  excited, 
and  while  the  vigilantes  were  about,  a trusty  friend 
brought  me  two  horses,  and  volunteering  to  become  my 
travelling  companion,  we  set  out  for  the  Argentine 
Republic,  that  lay  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes. 
The  Uspallata  and  Portillo  passes  were  watched,  and 
nothing  remained  but  to  follow  down  the  valley  of 
Tupungato  to  the  Planchon  Pass.  Without  sustenance 
for  our  animals,  and  but  a small  supply  of  food,  we 
commenced  a journey  that  the  old  arrieros  themselves 
would  have  turned  back  from.  The  lofty  sides  of  the 
mountains  hemmed  us  in,  and  we  followed  on,  day 
after  day,  until  our  horses  died,  and  we  were  on  the 
point  of  starvation.  At  last  we  reached  the  Planchon, 
which  is  close  upon  Patagonia,  and  crossing  this  flat 
mountain,  which  is  composed  of  light  gravel,  resem- 
bling snuff  in  color  and  fineness  of  grain,  we  came  upon 
a little  fort,  from  which  a few  soldiers  ran  on  seeing 
us,  shouting,  ‘The  Indians!  the  Indians!’  We  left 
them  after  quieting  their  fears  and  receiving  a little  food. 

18 


274 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


“ The  next  day  two  Indians  approached,  and  uttered 
repeatedly  the  word  ‘ amite'  (friend).  They  kindly 
undertook  to  guide  us  to  Mendoza,  a town  that 
lay  one  hundred  and  eighty  leagues  to  the  north. 
These  two  savages  caught  with  their  bolas  (balls) 
several  ostriches  and  one  or  two  guanacos,  upon  the 
flesh  of  which  we  feasted.  When  within  two  days 
of  the  town,  our  guides  pointed  out  the  true  direc- 
tion for  us  to  follow,  and,  shaking  hands  with  them, 
we  parted. 

“Upon  arriving  in  Mendoza  I found  employment 
for  a while,  but,  not  liking  the  place,  went  north  to  San 
Juan,  while  my  friend  returned  to  Chili.  And  here  I 
have  lived  for  nine  years,  having  been  married  for  the 

last  six  or  seven  to  the  daughter  of  Don , an  old 

soldier,  who  has  fought  in  the  battles  of  the  revolutions 
which  spring  up  every  few  years  in  this  province.” 

After  returning  to  North  America,  I wrote  many 
letters  of  inquiry  for  the  benefit  of  Don  Guillermo. 
Several  of  these  letters  were  answered.  Others,  prob- 
ably, never  reached  the  destinations  for  which  they 
were  intended. 

I found  that  a portion  of  my  friend’s  family  were 
still  living,  and  their  heartfelt  letters  to  me  amply 
repaid  the  exertions  I had  made  to  discover  their  resi- 
dences. The  history  of  Don  Guillermo  has  a touch  of 
romance  about  it.  One  person  wrote  as  follows  : 

“F.  A d (the  father  of  Don  G.)  was  a younger 

son  of  the  high  chamberlain  to  the  King  of  Saxony, 
and  as  his  elder  brother  took  the  office  and  title  of  his 
.father,  he,  F.,  took  to  the  army,  as  is  usual  in  that 
country,  and,  just  before  the  close  of  our  revolutionary 


DON  GUILD  ERMO’s  NATIVITY. 


275 


war,  came  to  New  York  as  major  of  a regiment  of 
Hessians.  After  peace  was  declared,  he  remained,  and 
married  a wealthy  lady,”  <fcc.,  &c. 

Thus  much  regarding  his  parentage.  The  cause 
that  drove  him  from  the  land  that  he  even  now  adores, 
remains  a secret  with  the  few  in  whose  breasts  it  will 
be  sure  of  a safe  keeping. 

From  another  quarter  I received  the  following  lines, 
which  were  written  by  the  cooper  of  the  Henry  Astor, 
who  took  charge  of  the  ship  on  her  homeward  pas- 
sage: “In  looking  over  my  journal  of  notes  of  that 

voyage,  I have  not  mentioned  the  coming  on  board 
of  the  young  man  (Don  Guillermo)  at  Galapagos 
Islands;  but  oh  the  7th  of  October,  1842,  I have 
merely  mentioned  that  we  lost,  by  desertion,  while  at 
Dominica  (one  of  the  Marquesas  Islands),  a boy. 
The  particulars  of  which  I recorded  in  the  ship’s  log 
book. 

“ The  particulars  of  his  coming  on  board,  or  of  his 
leaving,  have  passed  from  me,  and  I could  wish  that 
many  other  occurrences  of  that  eventful  voyage  might. 
H.  C.” 

Letters  from  Nantucket  inform  me  that  the  log-book 
of  the  Henry  Astor  was  lost  in  the  great  fire  of  1846. 
The  captain’s  private  journal,  brought  home  by  Mr.  C., 
the  cooper  of  the  ship,  contains  the  information  de- 
sired. “ A.  Scotch  boy,  by  the  name  of  James  Walker 
(assumed  name),  deserted  the  ship  at  the  Isle  of  Dom- 
inica, one  of  the  Marquesas,  on  the  8th  day  of  October, 
1842 ; and  they  had  good  reason  to  believe  that  he 
was  enticed  away  from  the  ship.” 

Not  having  seen  the  captain’s  journal,  I cannot  learn 


276 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


anything  relative  to  the  men  who  accompanied  Don 
Guillermo  when  he  left  the  vessel.  I have  added  these 
few  facts,  thinking  that  they  might  be  interesting  to 
the  relatives  of  Don  Guillermo,  who  are  now  able  to 
carry  on  a correspondence  with  him. 


CROSSING  THE  ANDES. 


277 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

CROSSING  THE  ANDES. 

WHILE  the  fig,  the  olive,  and  the  orange  trees 
were  clothed  in  green,  and  vast  herds  of  cattle 
from  the  great  pampas  were  arriving,  to  be  fattened  in 
the  clover-fields,  the  mountains  still  remained  covered 
with  snow,  and  impassable,  save  to  the  trained  courier. 
Still  I had  seen  all  that  rendered  San  Juan  attractive, 
and  a longing  to  return  to  my  own  country  came  so 
strongly  upon  me,  that  I determined  to  risk  a passage 
to  Chili  at  the  earliest  possible,  moment. 

It  was  only  when  my  intentions  became  known  that 
I was  made  aware  of  the  numbers'  and  kindly  feelings 
of  my  San  Juan  friends ; for  so  many  were  interested 
in  my  welfare,  and  warned  me  so  earnestly  of  the 
danger  of  the  journey,  and  attempted  to  receive  from 
me  the  promise  that  I would  remain  with  them,  at 
least  until  the  snow  had  disappeared,  that  I could  not 
but  feel  I had  indeed  fallen  in  with  some  of  the  truly 
hospitable  and  generous  peoples  that  here  and  there 
are  scattered  over  the  world,  making  it,  as  do  the  oases 
in  the  desert,  not  all  a dreariness. 

I learned  from  these  friends  that  the  northern  passes 
that  led  to  Copiapo  and  Coquimbo  were  buried  in  the 
snow,  and  that,  on  the  first-named  road,  a party  of 


278 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


eight  arrieros , while  lately  attempting  to  cross  into  Chili, 
had  been  frozen  to  death.  The  Coquimbo  road  was  said 
to  be  equally  as  bad,  for  there  eleven  experienced  guides 
had  just  fallen  victims  to  a fierce  snow  storm  in  the 
valleys  of  the  Andes.  The  two  southern  passes  of  TJs- 
pallata  and  Portillo  were  more  elevated  than  the  two 
northern  ones,  but  were  much  shorter.  The  Portillo 
could  not  be  passed  by  man.  The  mail  road  of  Uspal- 
lata  was  the  one  fixed  upon  by  me  as  the  most  practi- 
cable ; and  though  the  courier  reported  the  loss  of  two 
young  Chilenos,  who  probably  had  been  swept  away  by 
the  mountain  torrent,  I believed  that,  having  been 
reared  in  a New  England  climate,  whose  winters  are 
rigorous,  I could  bear  the  hardships  of  the  cold  better 
than  the  native  guides  themselves. 

While  I was  contemplating  an  early  start,  an  old 
man  called,  and  requested  permission  to  give  an  ac- 
count of  his  sufferings,  he  having  attempted  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Cordilleras  a few  days  before. 

“We  started,”  he  said,  “ with  every  prospect  of  suc- 
cess. The  weather  had  been  settled  for  several  days, 
and  with  our  mules  we  left  the  outer  sierra,  and  pene- 
trated far  into  the  mountains.  But  good  fortune  did 
not  remain  the  same,  for  suddenly  a great  temporal 
came  flying  from  the  south,  and  enveloped  us  for  many 
hours  in  its  terrible  folds.  The  snow  fell  in  clouds , and 
I,  of  all  my  party,  escaped  ; my  companions  are  frozen 
in  the  drifts,  and  there  they  will  remain  until  the  melt- 
ing of  the  snow.  Look  at  my  hands ; all  of  the  fingers 
were  frozen,  and  also  my  cheeks  and  nose.  No,  senor. 
Norte  Americano , no  paso  vcl.  la  Cordillera  / ” 

The  poor  old  guide  was  in  a pitiful  condition ; but, 


FAREWELL  TO  DON  GUILLERMO. 


279 


undoubtedly,  had  he  been  twenty  years  younger,  he 
would  have  fared  better.  I confess  that  this  news, 
with  the  entreaties  of  my  friends,  forced  me  to  post- 
pone crossing  the  mountains  until  a later  date.  I 
consented  to  remain,  and  for  several  weeks  tried  to 
content  myself;  but  when  four  weeks  had  passed,  I 
became  resolved,  and  packing  my  notes,  and  a few 
specimens  of  natural  history,  in  my  canvas  bag,  I 
announced  tp  my  friends  my  firm  determination  of 
leaving  the  country. 

Don  Guillermo,  on  seeing  that  I was  in  earnest, 
ordered  his  peon  to  lasso  my  horse,  and  bring  him  to 
the  corral,  and  made  every  preparation  for  my  comfort 
in  the  journey  that  his  inventive  skill  could  suggest. 

On  Saturday,  November  10  (the  last  spring  month 
of  that  latitude),  I bade  adieu  to  the  family,  and 
started  on  the  road  to  the  city.  Don  Guillermo  accom- 
panied me  to  the  river,  that  was  swollen  by  the  floods 
from  the  valleys  of  the  Andes,  and  went  roaring  along 
its  course  with  a fearful  rapidity.  At  the  banks  of  the 
torrent  my  friend  bade  me  farewell,  charging  me  to  be 
faithful  to  the  promise  I had  made  him,  namely,  that  I 
would  endeavor  to  find  out  the  residence  of  his  sur- 
viving relations,  whom  he  had  left  sixteen  years  before 
in  North  America,  during  which  time  he  had  not  heard 
one  word  of  their  welfare  or  whereabouts.  I promised 
again,  and  said  farewell,  and  left  him ; it  was  necessary 
for  me  to  cross  the  river,  and  I at  once  spurred  my 
horse  into  the  torrent,  and  began  to  ford ; fortunately, 
the  animal  was  sure-footed  and  strong,  and  we  landed 
safely  on  the  opposite  shore. 

I passed  most  of  the  next  day  at  a friend’s  house, 


280 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


within  the  limits  of  the  town,  and  at  dusk  rode  out  to 
the  post-house,  and  presented  a letter  of  introduction 
to  the  proprietor,  a garrulous  old  don,  whose  good  en- 
tertainment for  man  and  beast  had  made  his  house  a 
favorite  resort  for  travellers.  The  don  read  my  letter, 
and  declared  that  I should  remain  with  him  for  some 
time,  as  it  was  impossible  to  cross  to  Chili.  The  next 
day,  Don  Carlos  Leon  Rodriquez,  minister  to  the  prov- 
ince of  San  Luis,  attended  by  a priest,  both  of  whom 
were  on  their  way  to  the  town,  stopped  at  the  posta , 
and  corroborated  the  statement  of  the  guardo.  The 
former  gentleman  offered  to  present  me  with  letters  to 
his  friends  in  Mendoza,  if  I preferred  going  to  that 
town,  and  remaining  until  the  passage  across  the 
mountains  was  sure  and  free  from  all  difficulties.  Con- 
sidering that  we  had  never  met  before,  the  kind  pro- 
posal proved  still  further  to  me  the  hospitable  feelings 
that  the  educated  people  of  the  Argentine  Republic 
bear  towards  North  Americans. 

I had  intended  to  continue  my  journey  as  a pedes- 
trian across  the  Andes,  but  it  seemed  necessary  to  take 
with  me  some  beast  to  serve  as  pack-animal,  to  carry 
my  small  collection  of  specimens,  blankets,  &c.,  to  the 
port  of  Valparaiso.  As  it  might  become  necessary  to 
abandon  the  animal  along  the  road,  I selected  a speci- 
men of  horse-flesh  which  would  have  afforded  a stu- 
dent of  anatomy  easy  facilities  for  osseous  examina- 
tions, without  removing  the  hide. 

During  the  forenoon  I bade  adios  to  my  new  ac- 
quaintances, and  with  one  end  of  my  lasso  in  my  hand, 
and  the  other  fastened  to  the  bridle,  of  my  horse,  I led 
the  way,  on  foot,  happy  in  feeling  that  I had  fairly 


THE  FLECHA. 


281 


commenced  the  last  stage  of  my  journey  towards  the 
Pacific. 

Taking  a south-westerly  course  across  the  desert,  I 
travelled  until  three  o’clock  over  the  same  dreary  waste, 
when  a deep  fissure  was  observed  in  the  sierra,  which  I 
entered,  and  soon  found  myself  within  the  Flecha. 
Before  passing  this  peculiar  gap,  a word  or  two  regard- 
ing it  may  prove  interesting.  For  many  leagues  along 
its  course  the  sierra  presents  an  impassable  barrier  to 
man  or  beast.  The  Flecha  is  a narrow  passage  from 
the  desert  on  the  east  to  the  valley  on  the  western 
side.  The  sides  of  the  Flecha  are  of  solid  rock,  rising 
perpendicularly  to  a great  height. 

The  pass  exhibits  the  action  of  water  upon  its  sides, 
for  the  rock  has  been  worn  smooth  in  past  ages,  and 
the  bed  of  the  passage  is  covered  with  pebbles.  Un- 
doubtedly, a long  time  since,  a strong  body  of  water 
found  its  way  through  this  place,  and  may  have  sub- 
merged the  plain  below ; but  whether  this  gap  was  the 
bed  of  a natural  stream,  or  mere  vent,  through  which 
the  melting  snow  escaped  during  the  spring  months, 
cannot  now  be  well  determined.  The  effect  that  the 
lofty  sides  of  the  Flecha  have  upon  independent  ob- 
jects is  very  curious.  My  horse  seemed  to  dwindle  to 
the  size  of  a Shetland  pony  when  I removed  a few 
yards  from  him,  and  two  muleteers,  who  passed  through 
at  the  same  time,  looked  like  pygmies. 

Half  way  up  the  precipice  were  holes,  said  to  have 
been  cut  by  the  ancient  discoverers  of  the  country,  to 
assist  in  searching  for  precious  metals,  but,  proving  un- 
profitable, had  been  abandoned.  I continued  along  the 
valley  until  dusk,  when  the  barking  of  dogs,  and  occa- 


282 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


sional  glimpses  of  a light,  guided  me  to  one  side  of  the 
valley,  where  a few  huts  constitute  the  hamlet  of  El 
Durazno.  These  huts  were  inhabited  by  muleteers, 
who  sufiered  greatly  from  poverty.  Here  and  there 
the  rough  soil  had  been  levelled,  so  as  to  be  suscepti- 
ble of  irrigation,  and  a few  patches  of  clover  gave  a 
cheering  aspect,  when  contrasted  with  the  barren 
mountains  behind  the  hamlet.  An  old  woman  invited 
me  ‘ to  enter  her  house,  and  pass  the  night,  as  it  was 
damp  outside,  and  the  heavy  clouds  that  hovered  about 
us  looked  as  if  about  to  descend. 

The  hut  was  built  of  sticks  and  mud,  and  adjoining 
it  was  the  kitchen. 

Having  turned  my  horse  adrift,  I entered,  and,  as  I 
reclined  upon  a skin  couch,  commenced  inquiring  of 
the  hostess  relative  to  the  snow  on  the  main  Cordil- 
lera. I was  unable,  however,  to  obtain  any  informa- 
tion from  that  source.  Our  party  was  soon  increased 
by  the  entry  of  several  rude-looking  fellows,  armed 
with  long  knives.  The  place  was  so  small  that  we  re- 
clined, packed  one  against  the  other,  men,  women,  and 
children,  promiscuously.  The  old  woman  commenced 
cooking  an  asado  upon  the  fire ; it  had  hardly  begun 
to  splutter  and  crackle,  when  the  dog  that  had  sat  be- 
side the  fire  caught  up  the  meat  in  his  mouth,  and 
commenced  masticating  it  with  great  gusto.  The  wo- 
man, screaming  out,  “ O , sus  Ave  Maria  / ” made  a 
clutch  at  the  dog,  but  was  unsuccessful  in  recovering 
the  prize.  One  of  the  men  caught  the  animal  by 
the  throat,  and  choked  him  until  the  meat  was 
drawn  from  his  mouth,  when,  with  a hasty  “Ha, 
perrof  ” it  was  returned  to  the  fire,  and  cooked  for 


VINCHUCAS. 


283 


the  lookers-on.  More  men  and  dogs  came  in,  and, 
thinking  it  best  to  retreat  while  it  remained  in  my 
power  to  do  so,  I requested  my  hostess  to  allow  me  to 
retire.  Taking  a saucer  of  fat,  in  which  a bit  of  rag 
was  burning,  she  led  the  way  into  the  other  shanty, 
and  assisted  in  spreading  my  saddle  cloths  upon  a 
rough  sofa,  built  of  boards,  which  had  been  placed  in 
the  middle  of  the  floor  to  prevent  the  approach  of  the 
vinchucas  that  were  secreted  in  the  crevices  in  the 
walls. 

These  uncomfortable  disturbers  of  night  dreams 
are  as  large  as  the  common  May  beetle,  and  are  armed 
with  a bill  resembling  that  of  a mosquito,  which  is 
used  with  great  effect  upon  the  victim.  Before  fixing 
upon  a person,  the  body  of  the  vinchuca  is  thin  and 
flat ; but  after  his  feast  is  over,  he  is  bloated  and  dis- 
gusting to  look  upon.  As  this  tormentor  is  many 
times  larger  than  the  mosquito,  so  does  the  irritability 
caused  by  its  leeching  process  exceed  in  like  propor- 
tion that  of  the  other  pest. 

When  about  to  withdraw  from  the  room,  the  woman 
bade  me  sleep  with  the  utmost  confidence,  and  not 
fear  any  harm.  But  as  the  conversation  of  the  men  in 
the  kitchen  had  been  about  the  plata  that  might 
be  in  my  possession,  I was  very  particular  to  impress 
her  with  the  idea  that  North  Americans  feared  noth- 
ing; and  at  the  same  time  I drew  a long  knife  from 
under  my  poncho,  and  placed  it  beneath  the  sheep-skin 
that  was  to  serve  for  my  bed.  When  she  withdrew,  I 
lay  down ; but  as  I had  a thought  of  the  vinchucas  be- 
fore I prepared  for  sleep,  I carefully  rolled  myself  in 
my  blankets,  Indian  fashion,  and  defied  them  to  do 
their  worst. 


284 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


Hardly  had  I begun  to  doze,  when  a sensation  of 
something  disagreeable,  touching  me,  aroused  me  to 
the  fact  that  the  vile  pests  were  coming  from  every 
quarter  of  the  hovel.  I could  hear  them  crawling  up 
the  sides  of  the  room  and  across  the  ceiling,  when 
with  their  usual  degree  of  impudence,  one  after  another 
dropped  plump  upon  my  body.  But  my  swathing 
clothes  served  as  an  armor,  and  they  could  not  enter 
in  to  the  feast.  All  the  while  they  clung  with  consid- 
arble  tenacity  to  the  coarse  blankets,  trying  to  effect  an 
entrance,  but  they  had  met  their  conqueror ; for,  after 
waiting  until  the  swarming  was  over,  and  the  army 
had  fairly  camped  upon  me,  I suddenly  and  carefully 
rolled  over  and  over  upon  the  sofa,  until  the  life  was 
forced  out  of  nearly  all  of  them,  when,  being  satisfied 
that  a great  victory  had  been  achieved,  I dropped  into 
a deep  slumber. 

When  morning  came,  and  I passed  out  of  the  hut,  I 
found  that  the  valley  was  filled  with  mist,  and  I de- 
ferred setting  out  until  the  thick  clouds  had  scattered. 
About  nine  o’clock  a breeze  sprang  up,  which  soon 
cleared  the  valley  of  mists,  and  I resumed  my  journey. 
Soon  after  my  leaving  El  Durazno,  the  valley  ex- 
panded into  a plain  of  a desert  character.  The  coun- 
try between  the  mountains  again  became  undulating 
and  broken ; at  three  leagues  from  the  last  hamlet,  El 
Sequion,  a collection  of  two  or  three  mud  houses  and 
several  ranchos,  appeared. 

From  one  of  these  ranchos  a China  (half  Indian) 
woman  came  out,  and  questioned  me  as  to  my  motives 
for  travelling  alone,  on  foot,  in  the  desolate  valley. 
When  I spoke  of  crossing  the  Cordillera,  the  good 


THE  SEQUION. 


285 


^feature  lifted  both  her  hands,  and  exclaimed  in  collo- 
quial Spanish,  “ Por  Dios , don’t  go  any  farther.  A 
man  from  Chili  stopped  here  the  other  day  — his  mouth 
and  cheeks  were  like  a soft  peach  with  the  frost ! ” 
Another  woman  joined  us,  and  declared  that  I was  too 
young  to  be  so  far  from  home,  and  questioned  me  to 
the  effect  “if  my  mother  knew  that  I was  out.”  In 
their  inquiries,  however,  they  exhibited  a kindness  that 
to  me  was  very  gratifying,  and  I felt  that  in  case  of 
accident  upon  the  road,  I had  at  least  two  friends  near 
at  hand. 

Beyond  the  Sequion,  the  valley  grew  narrower,  and 
in  places  was  so  filled  with  stones  and  detritus  as  to 
lame  the  old  horse.  The  road  now  became  a mere 
defile,  the  steep  sides  of  the  sierras  towering  above  it 
to  a great  height,  their  bareness  being  sometimes  re- 
lieved by  dwarf  cacti,  that  grew  in  crevices  where  soil 
had  lodged ; these  plants  were  in  flower,  some  white, 
others  of  a yellow  hue. 

The  clouds  again  enveloped  the  mountains,  and 
while  I was  groping  along  over  the  broken  rock,  the 
tinkling  of  a mule’s  bell  broke  the  stillness,  and  a mo- 
ment later  I came  upon  a circle  of  pack-saddles  and 
mules’  cargoes,  lying  upon  the  ground.  A deep  voice 
called  out,  “ Come  here,  friend ; ” and  I was  soon  ac- 
quainted with  the  capataz  and  muleteers  of  Don  Fer- 
nando de  Oro,  a rich  San  Juan  merchant,  who  had  sent 
his  troop  to  Uspallata  to  await  an  opportunity  to  cross 
to  Chili,  in  advance  of  the  troops  of  the  other  mer- 
chants. The  don  was  daily  expected  by  the  capataz, 
who  had  been  three  or  four  days  on  the  road  already. 
The  capataz  urged  me  to  remain  with  the  troop  until 


286 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


the  next  morning,  which  invitation  I accepted,  and 
tying  my  horse  to  some  resinous  bushes,  I sat  down  to 
a sumptuous  meal  of  boiled  corn,  dried  beef,  and  pep- 
per, while  my  jaded  animal  satisfied  himself  in  cropping 
the  tops  of  the  bushes,  and  a kind  of  stunted  weed  that 
grew  among  the  rocks.  Towards  dusk  it  rained,  but 
my  heavy  blanket  kept  me  dry.  The  guides  huddled 
around  the  dying  embers,  vainly  endeavoring  to  warm 
their  benumbed  limbs ; around  us  the  hills  seemed  to  be 
shaken  by  the  heavy  thunders  that  reverberated  along 
the  mountain  tops. 

Fearing  that  my  horse  would  give  out,  as  he  had 
lived  mostly  upon  bushes  and  coarse  herbage  since 
leaving  San  Juan,  I arose  early,  and,  guided  by  the 
bright  starlight,  caught  my  animal,  and  led  him  up 
the  valley.  A spur  of  the  sierra  blocked  up  the  val- 
ley, and  this  steep  ascent  had  to  be  climbed  by  the  poor 
animal,  he  halting  every  few  steps  to  draw  breath. 
Having  reached  the  summit,  he  heaved  a deep  sigh, 
as  if  conscious  of  having  finished  a hard  task. 

A magnificient  view  rewarded  me  for  the  exertion 
of  making  the  ascent.  The  rocky  grandeur  filled  me 
with  awe,  for  I was  surrounded  by  a sublime  chaos  — 
broken  hills,  valleys,  and  barren  cliffs  of  the  sierra. 

A white  cloud  passed  over  the  valley,  shutting  me 
out  from  sight  of  the  world  below  ; it  was  no  easy 
task  to  follow  the  rocky  path  beyond ; sometimes  it 
led  down  abrupt  descents  into  dismal  valleys,  then 
again  almost  to  the  level  of  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain range.  Along  this  crooked  path  but  one  mule  can 
pass  at  a time,  and  there  are  places  where  it  requires 
but  a single  unsteady  movement  to  send  the  loaded 


IN  THE  SIERRAS. 


287 


animal  into  the  abyss  below.  For  nearly  a mile  the 
sierra  on  the  left  side  was  formed  of  red  freestone,  and 
was,  in  many  places,  as  regular  as  a castle  wall.  In 
this  lonely  place  the  least  sound  would  catch  my  ear. 

The  sierra  that  I had  crossed  is  called  the  Paramilla, 
or  “ bleak  place  ; ” in  the  warmest  day  a cold  wind  from 
the  snow  peaks  of  the  Andes  blows  drearily  across  it. 
Leaving  the  broken  mass  of  rock,  the  path  descended 
abruptly  into  a little  valley,  which  contained  a stone 
hut,  and  a corral  for  goats.  This  desolate  spot  was 
enlivened  by  the  presence  of  one  of  the  prettiest  senoras 
that  I ever  met.  She  informed  me  that  her  hus- 
band, who  was  then  hunting  guanacos,  supported  him- 
self principally  by  keeping  goats  that  browsed  upon 
the  sides  of  the  mountains.  When  he  wished  to 
butcher  any  of  the  guanacos,  he,  with  the  assistance 
of  a pack  of  trained  curs,  drove  them  into  natural  rock- 
walled  corrals  among  the  mountains,  where,  hemmed 
in,  the  animals  were  easily  despatched  with  the  bolia- 
dores  and  knife. 

Leaving  the  valley,  I ascended  to  a high  plain  that 
seemed  to  be  on  a level  with  the  summits  of  the  neigh- 
boring range  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  as  the  sun  was 
about  sinking  below  the  western  horizon,  I perceived 
that  this  was  to  be  my  camping-place  for  the  night. 
Laying  the  saddle  upon  the  ground  for  a pillow,  and 
carefully  spreading  the  blankets,  I lay  down  to  rest, 
having  first  tied  my  horse  to  a stunted  bush,  which  he 
vainly  tried  to  eat. 

I dropped  into  a restless  slumber ; but  an  hour  later, 
a wild,  desolate  cry  caused  me  to  spring  from  my  blan- 
kets, and  prepare  for  defence.  I had  been  told  many 


288 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


stories  of  the  cruelty  of  the  puma,  or  American  lion, 
and  at  this  moment  feared  that  one  of  these  animals 
was  on  the  plain.  It  was  along  this  part  of  the  road 
that  guides  had  seen  their  tracks,  and  hunters  had  run 
them  down  with  dogs  a few  miles  from  the  plain  upon 
which  I had  encamped. 

Another  wild  cry,  and  the  animal  passed  along  the 
plain  without  heeding  either  my  horse  or  me,  and,  glad 
to  be  left  in  peace,  I sank  into  a sound  sleep,  that  con- 
tinued unbroken  until  the  rising  sun  gilded  the  snowy 
crests  of  the  lofty  Cordillera. 

It  was  a beautiful  scene  that  lay  before  me.  Across 
the  plain  floated  white  clouds  of  mist,  like  airy  spirits, 
while  before  me  lay  a narrow  valley,  through  which  the 
road  led  to  Uspallata.  Upon  one  side  of  the  plain  rose 
several  low  hills,  green  with  coarse  herbage,  upon  which 
a small  herd  of  llamas  were  feeding,  as  if  unconscious 
of  the  presence  of  man. 

I soon  was  ready  to  start ; but  my  old  horse  seemed 
incapable  of  moving.  I rubbed  his  stiff  limbs  until  I 
had  worked  myself  into  a perspiration ; he  was  so  far 
recovered  as  to  be  able  to  move  slowly.  I seized  the 
lasso,  and  led  him  on  as  before. 

The  road  descended  to  the  ravine  just  referred  to, 
and  for  an  hour  or  so  my  journey  led  through  the 
surrounding  cliffs;  but  at  length  we  again  emerged 
upon  a flat  plain,  covered  with  low  bushes,  and  over 
this  I led  the  way  until  afternoon,  when  a green  spot 
at  the  foot  of  a high  range  of  mountains,  and  the  hut 
of  a farmer,  caught  my  eye,  and  soon  after  I drew  up 
before  the  last  house  in  the  Argentine  Republic  — the 
Guardo  of  Uspallata. 


THE  GUARDO  OF  USPALLATA. 


289 


Before  I could  fairly  disencumber  my  horse  of  his 
burden,  he  bolted  for  the  clover-field  behind  the  house, 
and  commenced  devouring  the  fodder  with  an  avidity 
that  told  too  well  of  his  famished  condition. 

The  person  in  charge  of  the  house  informed  me  that 
the  passing  was  very  difficult,  and  advised  me  to  re- 
main a few  days ; but,  knowing  too  well  that  delays  are 
dangerous,  I made  preparations  for  leaving  on  the  next 
day.  I was  to  leave  the  horse  in  the  clover-pasture, 
and  strap  my  blankets  and  other  articles  to  my  back, 
and  in  this  way  cross  the  main  range  of  the  Andes. 
From  this  I had  no  alternative ; and  so,  after  arranging 
everything  for  an  early  start,  I lay  down  under  the 
porch  to  take  a siesta. 

I was  soon  awakened  by  the  tinkling  of  a mule-bell, 
and  upon  rising  saw  three  persons  before  the  guardo, 
accompanied  by  several  mules.  Two  of  these  men 
were  dressed  in  the  gaucho  fashion,  but  the  other  had 
the  garb  and  manners  of  a merchant,  which  he  proved 
to  be;  for,  as  I approached  him,  he  offered  me  his  hand, 
and,  with  a polite  “ para  servir  vd introduced  him- 
self as  Don  Fernando  de  Oro,  a merchant  of  San  Juan, 
lie  informed  me  that  the  postmaster  near  San  Juan, 
with  whom  I passed  a day  and  two  nights,  had  re- 
quested him  to  keep  a sharp  lookout  for  a young 
gringo  that  was  on  the  road,  and  to  take  him  safely 
under  his  protecting  arm  to  the  American  consul  in 
Valparaiso.  I felt  much  flattered  by  this  acknowledg- 
ment, and  at  once  accepted  Don  Fernando  as  my  guar- 
dian and  protector. 

The  don  remarked  that  his  troop  of  mules,  which  I 
had  passed  two  days  before,  would  arrive  on  that  night, 
19 


290 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


and  remain  in  the  clover-field  until  a passage  could  be 
effected.  The  troop  came  in  at  a late  hour. 

The  next  day  was  a lovely  one ; and  as  the  weather 
gave  promise  of  being  settled  for  a few  days,  prepara- 
tions for  setting  out  on  the  following  morning  were 
commenced.  The  mules  for  Don  Fernando,  and  two 
guides,  were  selected  from  the  troop  of  ninety,  and  two 
extra  ones  were  carefully  shod,  to  answer  in  case  of  any 
emergency.  My  friend  declared  that  it  would  be  un- 
fair not  to  allow  my  horse  to  accompany  us  across  the 
Andes,  after  he  had  been  through  so  much  privation ; 
therefore  a heavy  pair  of  shoes  were  selected  from  the 
store  mules’  pack,  and  nailed  firmly  to  his  feet.  “Now,” 
said  the  don,  as  he  viewed  the  lank  form  of  the  animal 
with  no  little  merriment,  “Art  has  exhausted  herself 
upon  you,  and  Nature  alone  must  support  you  on  the 
road  to-morrow.” 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  Don  Fernando,  his 
two  guides,  and  myself,  with  our  animals,  crossed  the 
little  river  that  ran  past  the  guard-house,  and  at  sunrise 
entered  a narrow  cleft  in  the  sierra,  and  followed  a 
stony  path,  until  we  came  in  sight  of  the  River  Men- 
doza, which  rushed  along  the  bed  of  the  valley,  roaring 
like  thunder.  The  path  grew  narrower  as  we  pro- 
gressed, sometimes  following  the  margin  of  the  river, 
then  ascending  midway  to  the  tops  of  the  high  sierra. 
It  was  a scene  of  great  sublimity.  The  river,  which 
was  a deep  mud -color,  from  the  alluvial  matter  brought 
down  from  the  mountain,  was  hemmed  in  by  the  two 
parallel  sierras,  that  towered  majestically  to  the  height 
of  several  thousand  feet. 

In  some  places  the  path  wound  like  a thread  along 


A CHILENO  TRAGEDY. 


291 


the  bold  front  of  a precipice ; then  it  descended  to  the 
water,  and  followed  its  course,  until  it  again  ascended. 
As  we  gazed  above,  the  huge  pieces  of  detached  rock 
seemed  ready  to  fall  and  crush  us. 

The  melting  snow  had  undermined  the  soil  in  some 
places,  and  slides  of  earth  and  stones  had  fallen,  and 
covered  up  the  track. 

After  crossing  a little  bridge  that  had  been  thrown 
over  a stream  which  flowed  into  the  river  of  the  valley, 
we  came  upon  several  ruined  huts,  which  the  don  told 
me  once  belonged  to  an  ancient  tribe  of  Indians  that 
inhabited  the  valleys  of  the  Andes,  and  subsisted  prin- 
cipally upon  the  flesh  of  the  wild  llamas. 

•This  was  before  the  country  had  become  independent 
of  Spain ; and  though  many  years  had  passed  since  their 
construction  by  the  Indian  builders,  it  was  interesting 
to  note  that  the  plaster  that  held  the  stones  together, 
and  which  was  nothing  but  a kind  of  clay,  still  remained 
unbroken,  as  if  the  structures  had  been  but  recently  de- 
serted. These  remains  of  the  walls  of  the  Indian  dwell- 
ings were  four  feet  in  height,  and  were  partitioned  off 
into  small  rooms. 

In  the  corner  of  one  of  the  dilapidated  dwellings  was 
a heap  of  stones,  surmounted  by  a tiny  cross,  made  of 
rough  twigs.  The  guides  looked  serious  as  we  passed 
it,  and  in  answer  to  my  questioning  look,  the  don  told 
the  following  story:  — 

“ When  a Chileno  loves,  he  loves  with  a passion  so 
deep  and  strong  that  honor,  friends,  and  fortune  are 
secondary  in  his  estimation  to  her  who  has  thrown 
around  him  the  network  of  her  affections.  A youth 
not  long  since  came  from  Chili  to  visit  a relative  on 


292 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


the  Argentine  side  of  the  Cordillera.  Ilis  stay  was 
protracted,  for  he  had  met  with  a beautiful  maiden,  far 
lovelier  than  those  of  his  native  country ; and  when  he 
left,  it  was  only  to  receive  the  permission  of  his  friends 
to  return  again,  and  claim  her  as  his  own. 

“ He  crossed  these  mountains  to  Chili ; but  the  fierce 
temporales  from  the  south  had  commenced  before  he 
reached  the  main  range  on  his  return,  where  the  risk 
is  greater  in  effecting  a passage  at  such  a season  than 
on  any  other  part  of  the  road. 

“ He  had  with  him  experienced  guides,  and  a favor- 
ite mule  carried  his  wedding  garments  and  the  pres- 
ents that  he  intended  to  offer  his  future  bride.  On  the 
Cumbre  pass,  at  an  elevation  of  twelve  thousand  feet, 
a temporal  struck  the  party,  and  one  by  one  the  mules 
became  buried  in  the  snow. 

“The  boy  worked  like  a hero  (I  was  with  the  com- 
pany), and  during  the  storm  his  orders  were  obeyed 
by  the  muleteers  with  alacrity,  for  they  loved  him  well. 

“But  all  exertions  proved  unsuccessful;  not  an 
animal  escaped ; and  the  weary  party  descended  the 
Cumbre  into  the  valley,  worn  out  with  their  tremen- 
dous labors.  The  boy  never  lived  to  leave  the  valley ; 
there  he  lies,”  — pointing  to  the  cross,  — “buried  in 
his  chosen  spot.  The  guides  piled  stones  upon  his 
body,  to  keep  the  condors  from  devouring  it.  See! 
there  is  one  now  watching  the  grave.” 

I looked  to  the  place  designated,  and  saw  upon  the 
opposite  cliff  a huge  dark-colored  bird,  that  stood  sen- 
tinel-like,  a solemn  watcher  above  the  unfortunate  Chi- 
leno’s'  grave. 

Not  far  beyond,  the  path  again  troubled  us  by  its 


CONDORS. 


293 


extreme  narrowness,  and  a dizziness  came  over  me  as 
I gazed  far  below  into  the  mountain  torrent. 

Along  this  part  of  the  road  were  piles  of  the  bones  of 
animals  that  had  died  upon  the  road  during  the  past 
years.  Some  perished  from  hunger,  and  many  fell  over 
the  precipices,  lodging  among  the  rocks,  where,  after 
long  and  painful  struggles,  they  died.  It  seemed,  truly, 
like  going  through  the  Valley  of  Death,  so  numerous 
were  the  carcasses  and  bones  of  cattle  in  this  part  of 
the  valley. 

Condors  were  occasionally  seen  upon  the  cliffs,  some- 
times circling  high  in  the  heavens.  I had  often  ob- 
served these  birds  with  interest  when  they  came  in 
numbers  from  the  Andes,  to  feed  upon  carrion  around 
Causete. 

The  condor  is,  I believe,  the  largest  of  the  carrion- 
feeders  ; it  has  a fleshy  crest  upon  the  head,  with  wat- 
tle-like appendages  beneath  the  beak ; the  nostrils  ex- 
tend through  the  cere,  the  head  and  neck  are  bare  of 
feathers,  and  the  skin  of  the  neck  lies  in  folds;  around 
its  base,  a little  above  the  shoulders,  is  a frill  of  white, 
downy  feathers  encircling  it.  Its  flight  is  graceful,  and 
at  times  very  lofty.  The  breeding-places  of  the  con- 
dors are  in  hollows  of  the  cliffs,  hundreds  of  feet  from 
their  bases ; the  eggs  are  laid  upon  the  bare  rock. 

I have  seen  these  birds  in  pairs ; but  in  winter  months 
they  generally  congregate  in  greater  numbers. 

While  in  the  air,  the  condor  soars  in  graceful  circles, 
moving  its  wings  but  little : they  feed  upon  carrion,  but 
will  kill  weak  and  wounded  animals,  somewhat  resem- 
bling the  caracara  in  this  respect. 

The  range  of  the  condor  extends  along  the  Andes, 


294 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


from  the  Straits  of  Magellan  to  8°  north  latitude.  I 
have  seen  specimens  kept  as  pets  in  the  gardens  of  na- 
tive gentlemen. 

At  the  Cueste  de  la  Catedral  a grand  sight  awaited 
us.  From  the  brink  of  the  river  there  arose  a precipice 
of  dark-colored  stone,  that  frowned  upon  the  narrow 
path  which  passed  along  its  front.  A stream  of  water 
fell  over  the  brink  of  the  ledge,  and  wherever  the  water 
struck  the  rough  projections,  it  was  converted  into  spray, 
which  fell  in  turn  upon  other  points  of  the  rock,  giving 
to  the  scene  a fairy-like  appearance. 

Just  at  dusk  we  arrived  at  a point  where  the  valley 
turned  in  a new  direction,  and  was  particularly  distin- 
guished for  the  desolate  appearance  of  the  surrounding 
rocks,  which  is,  however,  somewhat  relieved  by  a bridge 
of  English  model,  built  by  the  Mendoza  government. 
Across  this  we  hurried,  and  stood  upon  La  Punta  de 
las  Yacas,  or  Cow  Point,  where  a desolate  stone  hut 
had  been  occupied  years  before  by  cow-herds,  smug- 
glers, and  now  sometimes  served  to  shelter  the  be- 
nighted traveller.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  torrent 
stood  the  first  casucha , or  post-hut,  built  of  bricks  and 
plaster.  It  was  very  small,  and  was  modelled  upon  a 
cheap  plan,  being  without  doors,  sashes,  windows,  — a 
large  square  hole  answering  for  the  first  and  last  con- 
veniences. 

During  the  Spanish  reign,  these  snow  huts  were  lib- 
erally supplied  with  provisions,  wines,  wood,  and  bed- 
ding; but  republican  rulers  are  satisfied  to  let  the  four 
men  who  compose  the  mail  party  carry  their  own  blan- 
kets, fuel,  and  food  upon  their  backs — a miserable  rule, 
that  causes  much  suffering  among  the  post-men,  who 


BEYOND  THE  CASUCHA. 


295 


are  often  shut  up  for  many  days  at  a time  in  a cheerless 
hut,  while  the  snow  storms  are  raging  around  them. 

A league  beyond  the  casucha , the  guides  led  the 
way  into  a narrow  valley,  where  the  animals  were 
turned  loose,  to  graze  upon  whatever  they  might  find. 
The  don  spread  a raw  hide  upon  the  ground,  upon 
which  we  laid  our  blankets,  and  consigned  ourselves  to 
the  embraces  of  the  drowsy  god. 

The  long  walk  had  thoroughly  jaded  me,  and  it 
needed  no  narcotic  to  insure  a sound  sleep  for  the  fol- 
lowing seven  hours. 


296 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

CROSSING  THE  ANDES  — CONTINUED. 

T HEX  the  sun’s  rays  of  the  next  morning  had 


penetrated  the  valley,  we  were  more  than  a 


league  from  our  camping-ground,  and  had  passed  the 
second  casucha , or  snow  hut,  of  the  winter  courier.  This 


neighbor  at  La  Punta  de  las  Vacas,  and  was  two 
leagues  farther  up  the  valley.  While  we  were  trudg- 
ing along,  the  metallic-sounding  whinny  of  llamas 
sounded  from  the  sierra,  and,  looking  up,  we  counted 
no  less  than  thirty  of  these  graceful  creatures  gazing 
curiously  upon  us.  The  herd  consisted  of  males, 
females,  and  young,  the  latter  of  the  size  of  the  com- 
mon goat.  As  travellers  rarely  cross  the  mountains 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  the  llamas  instinctively 
inhabit  the  valley,  where  they  are  free  from  danger, 
and  find  a better  living  than  the  rocky  cliffs  afford. 

Again  the  valley  was  blocked  up  by  a spur  of  the 
sierra,  called  the  Paramilla,  the  second  one  crossed 
since  leaving  the  hamlet  of  El  Durazno.  The  sides 
were  steep,  and  Don  Fernando  cautioned  me  against 
walking,  observing  that  riding  kept  the  puna  (a  pecu- 
liar effect  produced  by  inhaling  rarefied  air)  at  a dis- 
tance. The  summit  of  the  Paramilla  was  buried  in  a 


little  domicile  was  built  after  the  model  of  its  distant 


RIVERS  IN  THE  ANDES. 


297 


deep  drift  of  snow,  through  which  we  forced  our  ani- 
mals at  considerable  risk ; for  their  exertions  to  keep  a 
footing  almost  overtasked  their  strengths  Sometimes 
falling  into  concealed  holes,  they  floundered  in  the 
great  drift  until  our  own  services  were  necessary  to 
rescue  them  from  injury.  Finally,  a passage  was  ef- 
fected, and  we  wound  down  the  west  side  to  the  banks 
of  the  torrent  in  the  vicinity  of  the  third  snow  hut. 
The  color  of  the  water  had  changed  from  a muddy 
hue  to  dark  red,  and  it  seemed  to  rush  along  more 
impetuously  than  at  the  entrance  of  the  valley.  The 
many  little  streams  that  fell  over  the  precipices  along 
the  road  were  colorless;  therefore.  I judged  that  either 
the  bed  of  the  torrent,  or  its  source,  gave  to  the  water 
its  peculiar  color ; and  it  may  be  of  interest  to  state  in 
this  place,  that,  as  far  as  I could  learn,  all  the  rivers 
that  descend  into  the  Argentine  Republic,  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Andes,  are  of  a deep  mud  color,  holding  in 
suspension  alluvial  mud  ; while  upon  the  Chili,  or  west 
side  of  the  Andes,  the  waters  are  clear  and  colorless. 

The  coolness  of  the  morning  soon  gave  way  to  the 
heat  of  the  sun,  and  it  grew  warmer  as  its  rays  were 
reflected  upon  the  snowy  sides  of  the  mountains.  The 
sound  of  a human  voice  fell  upon  our  ears  strangely  in 
this  desolate  place,  as  a party  of  men  came  into  view 
far  up  the  valley.  We  soon  met,  and  many  were 
the  inquiries  made  by  the  members  of  both  parties. 
The  Cordillera  had  actually  been  passed,  but  an  hour 
or  two  before,  by  the  courier  and  several  persons  who 
had  placed  themselves  under  his  orders.  The  courier 
was  a short,  square-built  man,  of  very  dark  complexion ; 
and  from  the  fact  of  his  having  performed  many  daring 


^98 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


passages  during  the  past  years,  we  looked  upon  him 
with  no  ordinary  interest.  He  rode  on  a small  mule, 
the  mail  bag  being  slung  to  his  neck  by  a leather  strap, 
and  did  not  exceed  in  size  a school-boy’s  satchel.  He 
informed  us  that  the  snow  was  thawing  upon  the  sum- 
mit of  the  main  ridge,  and  would  not  be  passable  until 
the  cold  night  air  had  crusted  it  over,  when  we  might 
pass  in  comparative  safety.  But  Don  Fernando  was 
not  to  be  stopped  even  by  the  opinion  of  so  experienced 
a personage  as  the  courier,  but  ordered  us  to  hurry  on 
with  all  possible  speed. 

Soon  the  main  range  of  the  Andes  rose  before  us, 
blocking  up  the  valley  more  effectually  than  either  of 
the  previous  Paramillas,  its  rounded  top  glistening  from 
the  reflected  light  of  the  sun.  The  don  ordered  a halt 
beside  the  river,  in  order  to  prepare  for  future  action. 
The  animals  were  allowed  to  drink  a little  water,  while 
the  don  gave  us  all  a dose  of  starch  water  and  sugar, 
which  we  drank.  This  was  a remedy  for  the  pwia, 
or  at  least  to  cause  our  stomachs  to  give  off  any  gases 
therein  contained,  to  cool  the  blood  and  invigorate  the 
system.  Don  Fernando  then  bound  his  face  in  cotton 
handkerchiefs,  and  the  guides  and  myself  followed  his 
example.  This  was  to  protect  our  faces  from  the  re- 
flected rays  of  the  sun  upon  the  white,  shining  drifts 
that  covered  the  summits  of  the  Cordillera  and  the 
neighboring  sierras. 

The  river  branched  off  to  the  northward,  and  was 
lost  to  view  among  the  mountains.  At  the  base  of  the 
Cordillera  was  the  last  snow  hut  of  the  Argentine  Re- 
public: passing  it  and  the  river,  we  commenced  our 
weary  ascent.  Water  had  been  flowing  from  the  sum- 


ASCENT  OF  THE  CUMBRE. 


299 


mit  for  several  days  previous  to  our  arrival,  and  there 
was  no  appearance  of  the  old  path  which  had  been 
washed  away.  As  the  side  of  this  part  of  the  range 
was  composed  of  gravel  and  loose  stones,  it  was  difficult 
to  obtain  a firm  footing,  and  the  animals  were  contin- 
ually slipping,  which  obliged  us  to  exercise  no  little 
care  and  labor.  The  guides  dismounted,  but  the  don 
declared  that  he  had  no  wish  to  court  the  puna  by 
exerting  himself  unnecessarily ; therefore  he  managed 
to  keep  upon  his  mule ; but  more  than  once  the  incli- 
nation of  the  animal’s  back  was  such  that  the  rider  was 
only  saved  by  a slide  off  by  the  attentions  of  one  of  the 
guides.  A direct  ascent  could  not  be  attempted ; our 
only  method  was  to  wind  back  and  forth  from  side  to 
side,  on  the  face  of  the  Cordillera,  thus  making  the 
ascent  very  gradual. 

When  we  were  about  two  thirds  of  the  way  up, 
our  anticipated  trouble  commenced.  The  baggage 
mule  lost  her  footing,  and  rolled  over  and  over  down 
the  side  of  the  mountain.  Don  Fernando  shrieked  out 
a hasty  caramba , the  guides  a naughty  c — o,  while  I 
stood  aghast.  But  our  fears  were  soon  quieted ; for  the 
animal  struck  upon  a projecting  piece  of  rock,  which 
stayed  her  course,  without  apparently  injuring  her. 

Being  the  smallest  of  the  party,  I was  intrusted  with 
the  lasso,  with  which  I crawled  down  to  the  mule,  and 
fastened  it  about  her  neck,  when  she  was  pulled  upon 
her  feet  by  the  party  above.  Having  been  relieved  of 
her  cargo,  the  animal  readily  commenced  ascending,  as 
if  nothing  had  troubled  her,  and  soon  she  was  in  the 
path  again  with  her  load  upon  her  back. 

After  many  fallings  and  backslidings,  our  party  stood 


300 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


upon  the  Cumbre,  or  summit  of  the  Cordillera,  at  an 
elevation  of  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  When  viewed  from  the  valley  below,  I was  dis- 
appointed as  to  its  seeming  altitude ; but  when  standing 
upon  the  Cumbre,  I fully  realized  the  great  height  upon 
which  our  party  had  halted.  The  view  was  confined 
by  the  irregular  peaks  of  the  surrounding  sierras ; but 
a fine  scene  lay  below  us  on  the  Chili  side,  of  a peculiar 
Alpine  character.  We  stood  upon  the  dividing  line 
of  the  Argentine  Republic  and  Chili,  and  I inwardly 
bade  farewell  to  the  country  that  had  been  my  first 
teacher  of  travellers’  hardships,  and  had  for  much  suf- 
fering given  me  lessons  of  usefulness  — had  impressed 
upon  my  heart  a truer  patriotism,  and  a more  dignified 
respect  for  our  republic  of  the  north. 

As  we  gazed  into  the  depth  below  us,  a wild  scene 
met  our  view.  The  deep  valley  was  filled  with  snow 
to  a depth  of  nearly  one  hundred  feet ; for  as  the  snow 
tempests  blow  along  the  range  of  mountains,  the  fleecy 
material  drifts  into  the  narrow  defiles,  filling  them  com- 
pletely, in  some  places,  to  the  very  tops.  This  is  the 
case,  particularly,  farther  to  the  south,  where  a winter 
passage  is  rarely,  if  ever,  attempted.  Upon  the  left 
side  of  the  descent  the  first  Chilian  casucha  rose  out 
of  the  snow,  differing  somewhat  in  model  from  those 
upon  the  Argentine  side,  the  roof  being  rounded  or 
oven-shaped,  while  those  on  the  east  side  are  two* 
inclined  planes,  like  the  roof  of  a New  England  cot- 
tage in  the  earlier  times. 

Until  now  the  powerful  reflected  light  had  not 
affected  my  vision ; but  I at  last  began  to  feel  it  seri- 
ously. I had  neglected  to  bring  “ goggles,”  and  though 


A GUIDE  MULE. 


301 


a thick  cotton  handkerchief  covered  my  head,  my  skin 
was  parched,  and  tears  continually  rolled  down  my 
face,  adding  to  my  torture,  from  which  there  was  no 
escape.  “ Thank  Providence  that  the  day  is  so  very 
clear,”  ejaculated  the  don  ; “ for  if  a temporal  should 
pass  over,  where  would  we  be  by  nightfall  ? Either 
blocked  up  in  that  cold  snow  hut  yonder,  or  buried 
in  the  valley  below.” 

The  snow  had  commenced  thawing,  and  the  real 
difficulties  of  crossing  now  commenced.  The  mules 
floundered  in  the  drifts,  often  requiring  our  combined 
exertions  to  keep  them  on  a sure  footing.  Near  the 
casucha  we  came  upon  hard  snow  ; but  the  original  path 
lay  many  feet  below,  buried  in  the  drift.  While  the 
party  were  pausing  to  consider  the  proper  course  to 
pursue,  I noticed  that  one  of  the  mules  had  been 
caught  by  Don  Fernando,  who  waded  towards  the 
firm  snow,  leading  the  little  animal  by  means  of  a 
lasso,  which  had  been  thrown  about  her  neck.  She 
was  the  smallest  of  the  animals,  and  was  called  the 
vaqueana , or  guide  mule,  from  the  fact  that  she  could 
follow  the  hidden  path  with  great  accuracy. 

Curious  to  see  her  operations,  I watched  her  closely 
as  she  walked  carefully  over  the  drift,  with  her  nose 
almost  touching  the  snow ; and  she  really  seemed  to 
be  guided  by  the  sense  of  smell.  The  other  animals 
followed,  driven  by  the  guides,  while  the  don  and 
myself  harnessed  Ourselves  with  the  lassos,  and  drew 
after  us  the  hide  upon  which  had  been  laid  the  bag- 
gage, saddles,  &c. 

Beyond  the  snow  hut  of  the  Cumbre,  the  descent 
was  abrupt,  and  the  line  of  the  narrow  path  having 


302 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


been  lost,  we  slid  down  the  drifts  in  a most  exhilarat- 
ing manner.  The  mules  came  after,  requiring  to  be 
well  whipped  by  one  of  the  guides  before  they  would 
move  an  inch.  Though  the  guide  mule  lost  the  nar- 
row path,  after  following  for  some  distance  correctly, 
she  became  valuable  to  us  on  this  part  of  the  trail.  We 
came  to  another  descent,  down  which  the  other  mules 
could  not  be  driven  ; but  when  the  little  vaqueana  sat 
upon  the  snow,  and  gracefully  descended  without  in- 
jury, the  laggards  followed,  as  one  sheep  follows  an- 
other ; all  but  one  descended  safely ; she  stuck  fast  in 
the  drift,  and  it  required  our  whole  number  to  ascend 
and  rescue  her.  We  found  her  suffering  from  the 
puna , and  in  dubious  spirits.  Her  exertions  to  free 
herself  in  a place  where  the  atmosphere  was  so  rare 
had  almost  ruined  the  poor  beast.  Blood  trickled 
from  her  nose,  and  her  breast  was  swollen  like  a blad- 
ber  distended  with  wind. 

At  four  o’clock  Don  Fernando  ordered  a halt  upon 
a pile  of  loose  rocks  that  protruded  from  the  snow. 
Here  we  remained  patiently  waiting  for  the  snow  to 
crust  over,  as  it  had  become  too  soft  to  allow  of  safe 
travelling,  Twilight  fell  upon  us  in  this  wild  retreat, 
and  found  the  guides  and  the  don  rolled  up  in  their 
ponchos , suffering  from  the  stinging  cold.  As  for 
myself,  I jumped  about  upon  our  little  territory  until 
the  increased  circulation  of  the  blood  kept  me  in  a 
warm  glow.  The  guides  fortified  themselves  against 
the  cold  air  by  drinking  aguardiente  / but  experience 
had  proved  to  me  that  the  cold  snow  water  in  my 
flask  would  give  me  a firmer  step,  an  easier  respiration, 
and  a clearer  head  than  any  brandy  or  aguardiente  of 
the  San  Juaninos. 


DESCENT  OF  THE  CORDILLERA. 


308 


The  moon  shone  as  beautiful  as  we  could  have 
wished,  lighting  up  the  valley  and  its  towering  walls 
in  a sublime  manner.  The  little  cascades  of  melting 
snow  no  longer  fell  over  the  cliffs,  but  froze,  coating 
the  dark  fronts  of  the  precipices  with  a shield  of  spar- 
kling ice,  and  the  sharp  “ ticking  ” of  the  frost  sounded 
strangely,  seeming  to  add  to  the  weirdness  of  the  place. 

After  remaining  for  three  hours,  the  guidespronounced 
the  snow  sufficiently  crusted  over  to  bear  us ; and,  point- 
ing to  a sharp  angle  of  the  valley,  the  oldest  one  de- 
sired me  to  lead  my  horse  in  that  direction,  while  the 
rest  of  the  party  attended  to  the  animals. 

The  River  Aconcagua  roared  along  the  mountain’s 
sides,  and  in  most  places  was  hidden  by  the  frozen 
snow.  Our  course  lay  along  its  borders,  where  many 
gullies  crossed  our  trail,  hidden  beneath  the  frozen 
crust. 

While  feeling  our  way  along,  old  Yellow-skin,  my 
horse,  fell  through  the  crust  into  a torrent  that  flowed 
into  the  river,  leaving  me  standing  upon  the  broken 
edges  of  the  hole.  The  guides  pulled  me  from  the 
chasm,  and  beat  the  old  horse  until  he  became  excited 
to  such  a degree  as  to  crawl  out  of  his  bath  with  a 
vigor  that  satisfied  us  he  would  live  to  reach  the  open 
country. 

We  next  crossed  a high  spur  of  the  mountains,  and, 
descending  a precipitous  path,  came  upon  the  second 
snow  hut  of  the  Chilian  government ; and  after  follow- 
ing many  windings,  and  experiencing  much  danger  in 
crossing  the  river,  the  dry,  brown  earth  was  reached, 
and  we  looked  up  to  the  lofty  mountains,  that  shone 
in  the  moonlight,  with  great  satisfaction,  for  our  labors 


304 


A THOUSAND  MILES5  WALK. 


were  ended.  The  guides  gathered  a few  sticks  togeth- 
er, and  succeeded  in  lighting  a fire,  by  the  heat  of 
which  a scrap  of  jerked  beef  was  cooked;  but  before 
this  had  been  accomplished,  the  don  and  myself,  over- 
tasked by  the  fatigues  of  our  long  journey,  had  rolled 
ourselves  up  in  the  hide,  and  were  sleeping  too  soundly 
to  be  awakened  by  the  peons,  who  undoubtedly  were 
pleased  at  the  result,  for  the}7-  had  all  the  beef  to  them- 
selves. When  the  reader  reflects  that  the  preceding 
stage  of  the  journey  had  been  very  long  and  arduous, 
we  having  travelled,  with  the  exception  of  three*4iours, 
from  four  o’clock  of  the  morning  of  one  day  until  two 
o’clock  of  the  next  morning,  he  will  acknowledge  that 
our  rest  was  well  earned. 


FROM  THE  ANDES  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 


305 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FROM  THE  ANDES  TO  THE  PACIFIC. 

T daylight  we  breakfasted  on  dried  beef  and  mate 


tea,  and  soon  started  on  our  journey,  which  was 
now  rapidly  drawing  to  a close.  The  sun  was  high  in 
the  heavens,  although  we  could  not  for  a long  time  see 
his  face,  for  the  mountains  shut  us  in  completely.  We 
continued  down  the  valley,  passing  near  some  fine 
springs  of  water,  which,  from  the  peculiar  manner  in 
which  they  burst  forth  from  the  ground,  are  called 
“ Los  ejos  de  Agua ,”  or  Eyes  of  Water. 

The  first  signs  of  civilization  that  we  reached  on  the 
Chili  territory  was  at  a place  called  “ El  Guarde  Viejo” 
the  old  custom-house  of  the  Chilian  government. 

This  was  occupied  by  a farmer,  a new  government 
building  having  been  erected  farther  down,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  valley.  Beyond  the  Guarde , at  intervals, 
little  huts  were  seen,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were 
garrulous  and  hospitable. 

As  we  emerged  from  the  valley,  and  encountered 
troops  of  mules  and  parties  of  country  people,  I ob- 
served the  peculiar  characteristics  which  distinguish 
the  Chilians  from  the  people  of  the  country  behind  us. 
The  muleteers  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes  were 
grave  in  deportment,  and  slow  in  speech  and  movement. 


20 


306 


A THOUSAND  MILES’  WALK. 


The  Chilians  were  more  energetic  and  intelligent, — 
perhaps  from  more  extended  intercourse  with  foreigners. 
Yet  they  have  the  discredit  of  being  less  honest  than 
their  brethren  of  the  pampa  provinces.  The  men  of 
Chili  wore  a short  poncho,  hardly  covering  the  wear- 
er’s hips.  The  Argentinos’  poncho  is  of  the  longest 
kind  — longer  than  those  of  the  people  of  any  other 
South  American  republic.  The  Chilian’s  lasso  hangs  in 
coils  from  the  saddle  behind  the  rider;  the  gaucho’s  is 
carefully  coiled  up,  and  rests  on  the  horse’s  croup. 

The  farms  now  became  more  frequent  as  we  travelled 
along ; the  buildings  were  neatly  roofed  with  red  tiles, 
and  furnished  a striking  contrast  to  those  of  Mendoza 
and  San  Juan,  which  were  generally  of  canes  and  mud. 

As  night  came  on,  we  reached  an  irrigating  canal, 
which  conveyed  water  to  the  town  of  San  Rosa ; thrifty 
little  farms  were  fed  by  its  waters  all  along  the  road, 
and  neatness  and  good  order  and  management  were 
everywhere  discernible.  The  little  houses  were  shaded 
by  groves  of  fig  and  orange  trees,  and  the  reader  can 
imagine  our  thoughts  and  happiness  to  be  travelling 
through  a country  bright  with  blossoming  fruit  trees, 
when  but  a few  hours  before  we  had  slept  on  a snow- 
drift. 

Groups  of  young  people  were  often  seen  seated  be- 
neath the  trees,  or  under  the  verandas,  singing,  or  playing 
on  the  guitar.  Before  one  of  the  farm-houses  we  drew 
up,  and,  after  being  welcomed  by  one  of  these  happy 
groups,  we  led  our  animals  from  the  road,  and  prepared 
to  remain  for  the  night.  An  abundant  supper  was  fur- 
nished us,  and  I do  not  remember  a pleasanter  night’s 
rest  that  I ever  had,  than  that. 


A CHILIAN  WELCOME. 


307 


The  next  morning  I went  out  to  the  pasture  to  bid 
my  old  horse  adios.  I found  him  cropping  the  rich  al- 
falfa on  the  irrigated  field ; and  as  I approached  him 
he  seemed  rather  disinclined  to  any  familiarity,  for  he 
had  associated  me  with  all  the  hardships  of  the  journey ; 
and  now  to  leave  a land  of  plenty  with  me  was  evi- 
dently not  to  his  taste.  I lost  no  time  in  assuring  him 
that  my  intentions  were  pacific,  and  when  I left  him 
he  gave  a pleasant  whisk  of  his  tail  and  shake  of  the 
ears,  apparently  thanking  me  for  leaving  him  so  liter- 
ally “ in  clover.” 

My  pedestrian  journey  was  ended.  I would  have 
liked  to  continue  on  foot  to  the  sea,  which  I could 
easily  have  reached  in  a couple  of  days ; but  my  kind 
friend  Don  Fernando  would  not  permit  me  to  leave 
his  troop.  I must  keep  him  company. 

“You  must  come  with  me,  my  son,”  he  said.  “ I wish 
to  introduce  you  to  some  very  nice  people.  I am  a 
Chilian  by  birth,  and  I desire  that  you  shall  form  a 
good  opinion  of  my  countrymen.” 

A mule,  richly  caparisoned,  was  furnished  me  by  the 
don,  and,  mounting  our  animals,  we  soon  rode  into  the 
town  of  Santa  Rosa.  Drawing  up  his  mule  before  the 
entrance  of  a large  mansion,  before  which  paced  a sol- 
dier with  musket  in  hand,  Ron  Fernando  inquired  if 
Don  Jose  Ynfante,  the  governor  of  the  department  of 
Santa  Rosa,  was  at  home. 

The  soldier  replied  that  that  gentleman  was  at  San- 
tiago on  official  business,  but  that  his  son  Don  Manuel 
was  at  home.  While  a servant  went  to  announce  our 
arrival,  I had  time  to  note  that  the  national  flag  of 
Chili  floated  above  the  stately  mansion,  while  a peep 


308 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


within  the  yard  revealed  beds  of  beautiful  flowers  and 
well-kept  walks. 

In  a moment  Don  Manuel  appeared,  and,  cordially 
embracing  his  uncle,  exclaimed,  “Welcome  to  Chili, 
and  to  Santa  Rosa ! ” The  don  introduced  me  to  the 
other  gentleman,  who  greeted  me  warmly,  uttering  at 
the  same  time  many  expressions  of  good  feeling  for  me 
and  my  countrymen.  We  then  entered  the  house,  and 
passed  a most  pleasant  day  in  social  intercourse,  to 
which  the  agreeable  and  cultivated  manners  of  the 
young  don  added  no  little  charm.  Don  Manuel,  as  if  to 
bring  our  recent  hard  fare  more  strongly  to  our  imagi-' 
nations,  feasted  us  upon  strawberries  and  sherbet ; and 
the  reader  can  form  some  faint  idea  how  acceptable 
they  were  to  us.  The  ice  for  the  sherbet  had  been 
brought  down  from  the  Cordillera  on  the  backs  of  mules. 

On  the  following  day  we  mounted  our  animals,  and, 
bidding  adios  to  Don  Manuel,  resumed  our  journey  for 
the  coast.  Leaving  Santa  Rosa,  we  passed  over  an  in- 
teresting country,  and  in  the  afternoon  crossed  a fine 
bridge  of  foreign  construction,  and  entered  the  town 
of  San  Felipe,  — which  has  a population  of  about  twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  — where  we  passed  the  night. 

The  River  Aconcagua  irrigates  the  gardens  and 
farms  in  this  district,  and  the  soil  is  very  fertile,  yield- 
ing abundant  crops  of  grain,  potatoes,  melons,  maize, 
beans,  walnuts,  figs,  peaches,  tobacco,  and  grapes.  The 
town  is  about  eighty  miles  from  Valparaiso. 

Resuming  our  route  on  the  next  morning,  and  trav- 
elling all  day,  we  entered,  at  dusk,  the  town  of  Quil- 
lota,  which  contains  about  ten  thousand  souls,  and  is 
about  thirty-five  miles  from  Valparaiso. 


DEPARTURE  FOR  HOME. 


309 


Here  we  found  some  large  and  well-cultivated  farms, 
and  the  whole  country  was  quite  interesting. 

On  the  following  morning  Don  Fernando  started  in 
advance  of  our  party,  to  prepare  for  our  arrival  at  Val- 
paraiso, this  being  the  last  day  of  the  journey. 

I remained  with  the  people  of  the  troop,  and  kept 
them  company  during  the  whole  day.  FTo  incident 
occurred  worthy  of  record  here ; and  before  the  twi- 
light had  begun  to  fall  upon  the  heavens,  we  were 
descending  the  high  cuestas  that  overlook  Valparaiso, 
which  city  lay  stretched  out  below  us  on  the  shore  of 
the  great  Pacific,  its  white  plastered  dwellings  glisten- 
ing like  silver  in  the.  rays  of  the  declining  sun. 

Winding  down  the  stony  path,  we  entered  the  city 
before  dark,  and  were  soon  ensconced  in  comfortable 
quarters. 

On  the  following  day  I presented  my  letters  of  in- 
troduction to  the  United  States  consul,  George  Mer- 
win,  Esq.,  who,  after  giving  me  a kind  reception,  and 
warm  congratulations  on  the  success  of  my  long  jour- 
ney, interested  himself  so  much  in  procuring  me  a 
berth  in  an  American  vessel,  that  before  twenty-four 
hours  had  passed  I was  comfortably  settled  on  board 
the  fine  ship  Magellan,  Captain  Charles  King,  and  I 
once  more  entered  upon  the  routine  of  life  before  the 
mast.  A few  weeks  later,  and  we  were  scudding  down 
the  western  coast  of  Patagonia,  and  “ going  around  the 
Horn”  (this  time  in  earnest)  on  our  journey  home. 

Reader,  my  story  is  told.  If  you  have  been  enabled 
in  these  pages  to  glean  a little  instruction  or  amuse- 
ment for  your  leisure  hours,  I shall  feel  well  rewarded ; 


310 


A THOUSAND  MILES*  WALK. 


and  if,  when  in  imagination  you  followed  me  in  my 
weary  journey,  you,  perhaps,  felt  some  little  sympathy 
for  the  hardships  I sometimes  experienced,  I shall 
never  regret  my  pedestrian  trip  across  the  “ Pampas 
and  the  Andes.” 


BISHOP/ 


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Chestnut  Hill,  Mass.  02167 


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